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I might be wrong, I have a PHEV but have a similar setting in the MID. I think this just toggles whether the EV indicator is displayed when only using battery power and doesn't actually affect how the car behaves.

So, I’ve had the Yaris for nearly a month, now the novelty has worn off I can see a few annoyances showing through. I’m not going to bang on about it, because it is what it is, but so far; 1) The doors, my goodness what a tinny sounding car, I’ve owned over 40 cars in 30 years of car ownership, and this is by far the worst for sounding, well, Cheap!! 2) Steering wheel height, the steering wheel sits too low for me, even with the seat as far down as possible, I’m just under 6ft but feel like a giant behind the wheel, it’s very “Peugeot 208” and it’s quite uncomfortable after a while. 3) Doors (again), wife, kids, me, all getting tired of shutting a door, to find it hasn’t shut and needs a hard slam to get it shut (which makes it sound even more tinny-see 1 above!) 4) The back window and the rear view mirror, I can barely see out of the back window, it’s so darkly tinted, with sunglasses on I cannot see anything, and is quite dangerous to be honest, really relying on door mirrors a lot, and glad of the blind spot monitoring. 5) The ride. Well what can I say? If I was 20 years younger I’d be chuffed, but oh my Lord it really is a bone shaker and teeth chatterer! The larger alloy wheel really make a difference in making it very hard on the spine, I know I can swap the wheels out, but I refuse to spend anymore money, so just going to have to live with it. So, what it has done is made me realise just how far other manufacturers have come! I have a 2021 Vauxhall Corsa e and it really does put the Yaris too shame in many areas, I suspect the Vauxhall won’t be anywhere near as reliable and even perhaps hard wearing in the long term but it is a surprise to be honest. Thankfully the Yaris is the wife’s car, so I’ll only drive it occasionally. The Yaris is still a good car, and plenty of positive things about it, but perhaps I was expecting too much from it? 🤔

Yes! I agree with all those points! And you forgot the massive A, B and C pillars and low mirror - The rear 270 degrees visibility is the worst of any car I've ever been in (Aside from a transit van ) and the A-pillars hide on-coming cars at the exact angle they come at you on roundabouts! The door tinniness is very much a throwback to the Mk1 Yaris, which had the most hilariously tinny back doors And I can confirm the ride comfort on the pothole ridden hellscape I regularly drive on was improved massively going from 17" rims to 15" rims, as well as a small bump in mpg (I opted for steel ones so I don't care if I kerb them and also the insurance companies couldn't jack up the premium! ) However the Mk4 is such a perfect car for me I don't care! It's just so nice to drive and is even punchier than even my old Mk1 D4D, and despite driving like I stole it most of the time I'm still getting a tank average of 72-75. When I wasn't and was just driving 'normally' I was getting into the low 80's last summer! I can't think of any petrol-powered car that could do that. I just filled it up in preparation for the Enfield Car Pageant tomorrow - Done about 350 miles, only got in 22 litres! And the handling is sooo much better than any other Yaris before it; I'd say it even rivals the Fiesta, which traditionally is one of the best handling cars at this level. My one even has a HUD! I can't even think of any car in this segment that can have a proper collimated windscreen-displayed HUD! And the adaptive cruise control and auto-steer has made the long boring slog up the M1 far less unpleasant. It definitely has a lot of flaws, but what it does well it does really really well.

Yes I generally agree with all your comments. However the economy of the car depends on its weight and aerodynamic design. As a point of note I have had paint devils attend to the Yaris now twice this past year to take out two dents. One in the roof, probably a small branch and one in the bonnet. Never needed them for to countless VW's in the previous 12 years. You will have noticed the contours in the roof line. Clearly there to add strength to a very flimsy roof. Dent Devils commented all the modern new small cars seem to be being built with thinner panels to cut down on weight and cost.

I agree with planc comment the mmt is a manual gearbox with electronic clutch and gear controls bolted on to it. and should not be treated as a manual. if you hold the car on an incline using the revs your riding the clutch etc. the cvt transmission in the hybrids are great. all toyota hybrids are cvt as its the motors delivering the drives to the wheels.

If it has an eco button, this will also make it shift lower down the rpm range as above, treat it like a manual* come off the throttle then up shift, the gearboxes are a bit dim witted but the later cars are the best of the MMT the new Aygo X is a CVT auto the worst of the automated manuals are the smart Fourtwo and the terrible........ i would rather get the bus Vauxhall easytronic

We are talking pure EV range here rather than the appearance of the EV indicator or 'green' traces on journeys recorded in the app. For your PHEV the literature quotes something like 47 miles and "up to 80 mph" (but not both!). For the HEV I've seen claims of "up to a mile" and "up to about 25 mph" with the strong caveat of "under appropriate conditions" (i.e. you stopped with a pretty much fully charged battery and everything else is going your way) - I've never seen anything formal or greater than those. Which is just fine - it's a hybrid; it's not an EV. And as others have said, HEV owners can use pure EV mode "under appropriate conditions" to move the car short distances (yards not miles) without requiring the ICE to fire up.

Getting closer.. 😀

Update: Shock absorbers changed and the noise is gone 👌

I know, and it won’t bother most owners and Toyota are making a huge savings on that. The things is that every little cut in terms of refinement and insulation when you add them together at the end may affect a bit the overall comfort and driving experience.

It's the Multi-Information Display ... 🙂

I tend to use ev mode when the car is cold and I need to shuffle around and I won’t be using the car any more that day. It saves the engine from starting and then not getting warmed up, it doesn’t give you very long in ev though.

All 2.0 and 1.8 Excel have the mat.

I have an HEV and drive in Normal mode 99% of the time. The system works flawlessly and I'm very happy with it - the ICE runs and provides power, generates electricity or simply switches off exactly as it should (as far as I can tell). On a recent trip to France I suddenly thought the EV Mode would be ideal for parking the car within Le Shuttle, and I've got EV Mode so why not use it? There's no sense in adding more exhaust fumes to the compartment. Both on the way out, and on the way back, the system said "no chance, you don't have enough charge in the traction battery". And on both occasions I'd arrived at the terminal after driving for well over an hour, but, admittedly, there had be a certain amount of low speed shuttling through passport control etc.. So, after 18 months or so, I have still not found a situation in which EV Mode would be useful and available. What is the experience of other HEV owners? (PHEVies need not apply, 'cos EV Mode obviously works well in a PHEV! 😉 )

Just like Frostyballs I have always used the supplied lead that plugs into the 12v socket to power my Garmin Sat Nav without issue. On the other hand I do use a USB to 12 adaptor to power my dash cam when I want to run it in parking mode but in this case I plug it into a USB power pack not the car's USB. It sounds an expensive solution but I have the USB power packs anyway as I use them to power some robotic cars using Raspberry boards so for my parking solution it was just the cost of the adapter. At least this way there is no way of running the cars battery flat. Vbestlife USB Port to 12V Car Cigarette Lighter Socket Female Converter Adapter Cord: Amazon.co.uk: Automotive Anker PowerCore Essential 20,000 PD Power Bank, External USB-C Battery with 20,000mAh 20W Power Delivery, Compatible with iPhone 12/12 Pro / 12 Pro Max / 8 / X/XR, Samsung, iPad Pro 2018, and More : Amazon.co.uk: Electronics & Photo

It is an approximate date, so can be either side (plus or minus) of the date given.

Hi Tony, just noticed your update reply, thankyou for the links you have sent they're very interesting and I really appreciate the time you have given replying back to me and I'm sure any other Toyota Owner club member will find your replies helpful.

It seems to be working as a good marketing tool, giving you a few hundred yards of EV experience to get you thinking about having a PHEV or EV as your next vehicle !

The way to drive a MMT car is to drive it like a manual gearbox because essentially that is what it is. If you drive an Auto box you can keep the accelerator pressed down as it changes. In a manual you would lift off the accelerator before changing gear. So when you drive a MMT you need to sense when the box is due to change then back off, or rev high then back off to allow it to change. Not really an Auto and should never be advertised as one.

I agree that the shift points in auto and manual mode could not be more different if Toyota tried. I got so annoyed with the high revving in auto mode that I stopped using it within a week or so of taking delivery in October 2020. In manual mode I have to say I ignore the shift indicator as it often seems not relevant to the road conditions. I often block shift e.g. double pressing the paddle in quick succession to effectively go from 2 to 4 or 3 to 5. Only thing that now annoys me is that sometimes when I'm just pottering on level roads it won't allow me to shift up using the paddle, so I squeeze the accelerator a bit more so it allows me to upshift and then ease off which means it stays in the higher gear.

When I bought my 2013 Touring Sports hybrid, I was very uneasy at not having a spare, and found a spacesaver on eBay. I'm glad I did, because I have since had two punctures (one a tear/split, and one right on the shoulder) which like yours were unsuitable for the pump/goop repair kit. I've had similar experience with a pushbike which had had Slime put into its inner tubes. Does this method actually ever work?

That's the one, it's listed in the EPC as 218 attitude black or part of the "HV emotional pack" (more than likely Jap/euro spec)

Ah, so the 'selling point' is that they are LED. Why can't they just call them side lights...? 🙄 Thanks.

True, while Toyota makes so high volume of cars, that every penny saved would add up, but they need to be a bit more customer centric.

Aka tracer lights, side lights or position lights.

Just recieved an email from Toyota Direct Parts as follows. "There is a note on the part saying that it is for vehicles without a grade package which is what excludes the GR Sport". There are no other options for that vehicle. End of saga, saved some money!

It's essentially there for sneaking the car off the end of the drive or out of an underground car park. Useful for sticking the radio on when you're waiting in the car and don't want it to start up yet. But, the car makes all sorts of choices about when you can use it. Battery level, battery temperature, engine load, engine temperature all factor into the 'yes you can' decision. People sometimes try and use it to better their fuel economy, but, the car has to replace all the energy you use in forced-EV mode anyway, so it can be counter-intuitive. The thing to remember with the hybrids is, it doesn't need to be in EV (forced or normal) for the benefits of the hybrid system. The car is constantly siphoning power into and out of the battery to help the petrol engine run more efficiently.

More or less exactly what you say. I'm taking the odometer reading from the app, that does match the in-car reading... Then looking at the trip data, but looking at the yearly view which is basically adding up every individual recorded trip. As I've have car less than a year, this is everything...

I didn't think it was the key programming that was to blame and suspected it was a software problem. I had expected it to suddenly reappear but after so long I am beginning to doubt it.

The garage puts it into 'repair mode' so no data recorded for the duration. They should take it off again. The MyT app said this as unable to programme charging - it said it would come off after 24 hours. Sloppy isn't it. So 'off piste' whilst in their charge - they forgot to turn off the dash cam though 🙂

Mine stopped logging journeys last Thursday, up till then had been fine. Yaris Cross.

Corolla. I had a journey last 6 Thursday, fine, Sunday 2 legs no trace on either. Monday fine, today fine. I had had a time earlier this week when MyT reported Error, try again later. I think it is the Server and not the car. Just think on the data handling. Every time every car switches off it sends its data package to the server. Is in conceivable that the server just misses a few packages? I would guess the number of smart connections will only increase.

Love that number plate. That's why I couldn't get it!

It's not the tyres. Its the chassis+suspension setup.

For rear fill, put the speakers in the back doors, they will not do anything in the boot apart from take up what little space there is

The Australians (I think) have a saying: If you want to go into the outback, take a Land Rover. If you want to come back, take a Toyota.

It's a slightly annoying trait I've found with mine too - Unless I have more than 4/8 bars of charge at power-on (Which is almost never in the Mk4!!) and can hit the EV-mode button fast enough, my Mk4 also just fires up the ICE when I first start it, even if I'm not moving. Now, it is deliberate and normal so don't worry there. The reasoning is to get the ICE ready to work as soon as possible, so e.g. get oil pressure up and fresh oil circulated round the engine, and start to get it warmed up and make sure it's all working properly, maybe put a bit more charge into the traction battery etc. It does make some sense, as if it didn't the engine could very easily find itself going straight from a cold start to motorway speeds which would not do its longevity any favours !

If an air con Bomb does not fully clear things, then use one of the foam sanitizers that you spray down into the air con matrix and vent pipes, worked well for us.

In my previous jobs I worked for a number of component suppliers to a number of car makers - including Toyota at Burnaston. When I decided to go self-employed the car I chose to buy was as a (used) Toyota. Why? - because Toyota was my most demanding customer. Components were tested to death - and no changes, no matter how small, were allowed without very thorough testing and approval. However, problems do sometimes occur, despite the best efforts of both Toyota and their suppliers. It’s not always due to cost cutting. Rest assured that the supplier of these bushes will have been put through the wringer to resolve the issue - most probably at a large cost to the supplier - both financially and in terms of reputation. But as we all know, s…. happens. And it’s how you resolve the issue that is important.

There are two main types of tyre noises from car tyres: 1. The faulty wheel bearing noise (whining) - this comes from under inflated tyres or some all season and winter tyres. Usually happens on very smooth asphalt and or at lower speeds . 2. The rumble noise - this is happening when tyres are over inflated or too hard as been aged, or has protector deformed, the noise can be more prominent at rough asphalt and at all speeds. Best to stick close to the recommended values. Correct tyres pressures are responsible not only for safety, better efficiency and handling but also for suspension, bearings and shocks longevity and perhaps your plastics inside the interior. Make the tyres rock hard and you will kill all of those above 😬

Interesting thing about the tyres, pressures and air temperatures. All of these are constantly changing and here what I noticed on my car equipped with Goodyear efficient grip performance 2 size 205/55 16 . I do measure and adjust pressure front 2.35 bar and rear 2.25 bar , early morning with air temperature around 12C° The car stay parked all day on the driveway under direct sunlight, air temperature goes up to 22C° tyres perhaps to 36C° as of the sunshine ☀️. In the evening 19:00 if I measure the pressures again they show front 2.45 bar and rear 2.35 bar, way more than what was set in the morning, however the tyres are ultra soft not only the side walls but the protector too, you can literally squeeze with fingers, the drive is very smooth, quiet and comfortable. Later in the night 03:00 hrs the air temperature goes down to 8C° , the tyre pressure goes down to front 2.33 bar and rear 2.23 bar, the tyres look and feel similar soft on the walls but the protector now is much harder, the ride is bumpier and there is just a tiny bit more road noise. That’s my experience from monitoring my car tyres and pressure and how they behave in different temperatures. Performance remains unaffected, these tyres are very good indeed. Comparison to my gf car Michelin energy e+ size 205/60 16 my car wins for noise levels from the tyres. 🛞👌

I checked the air pressure in mine just a couple of days after i collected it and they were 48 psi all round. 🙄 They are now running at 32psi all round and find this very comfortable.

Many of us have found out that dealers either don't check or don't understand the correct pressures. A lot of people who complain about road noise after purchasing a new vehicle discover that are over inflated.

I think quite a few of us have experienced similar; Mine were at 60psi! They usually set higher PSI from the factory as it stops the tyres flat-spotting so badly if they're sat around for a long time (e.g. while sitting in a field waiting to be transported) but they're supposed to be set during the PDI at the dealer... seems a lot of dealers have been slacking!! As for the TPMS/TPWS, there is a button or menu setting somwhere (depending on car - Check yer manual!) to reset the 'baseline' pressure, so if you do deflate them, you can press it to make it re-learn that as the new pressure.

I would set the tyre pressures to the correct pressure and reset the TPMS yourself, easy done 👍

It will not indicate any change in the MyT app until it hits production. The wait for an update is agonising, it would have been good if they could have added a step between ‘processing order’ and ‘production’. To to let the buying know it’s accepted and waiting a production slot?

Took the car to the dealers today to find the cause of the water in the tailgate. Was not the fault of Toyota but the people who wrapped the car. Behind the number plate is a drain hole for the upper part of the tailgate which they had covered up The dealers cut the wrap to expose the drain hole so all good As you can see in the pics the red car has the wrap with the hole covered and the grey car with it exposed Thought this info may help if other people had their cars wrapped

I have had a Thule 2 bike tow bar rack on a Gen 3 and a Gen 4 Prius, and they are wonderful. I have done the roof bar rack, and the strapped on rear rack, and the tow bar ball is the way to go. just maybe a Saris Bones rear rack would fit a Corolla, as the lower part of the tailgate/hatch takes the weight of the rigid design. Have ordered the new 2.0 with a Toy tow bar This is the Prius with a couple of 25kg e-bikes on the Thule rack, and travelled twice to Spain with this.....bikes now replaced with a pair of 9kg lightweights!

Having had to take evasive action on the M25 when a rear door mounted bike rack and 2 bikes parted company with the car in front, I wouldn’t go anywhere near one. Especially when there are so many tow ball/bar mounted ones about. Also I have seen the remnants of at 2 others at the side of the road. I no longer get anywhere near a car with a rack held to back of car with a couple of bits of rubber strap.

That would be the Dracula model, limited edition, made in Transilvania, delivery after midnight 🤣