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I might be wrong, I have a PHEV but have a similar setting in the MID. I think this just toggles whether the EV indicator is displayed when only using battery power and doesn't actually affect how the car behaves.

So, I’ve had the Yaris for nearly a month, now the novelty has worn off I can see a few annoyances showing through. I’m not going to bang on about it, because it is what it is, but so far; 1) The doors, my goodness what a tinny sounding car, I’ve owned over 40 cars in 30 years of car ownership, and this is by far the worst for sounding, well, Cheap!! 2) Steering wheel height, the steering wheel sits too low for me, even with the seat as far down as possible, I’m just under 6ft but feel like a giant behind the wheel, it’s very “Peugeot 208” and it’s quite uncomfortable after a while. 3) Doors (again), wife, kids, me, all getting tired of shutting a door, to find it hasn’t shut and needs a hard slam to get it shut (which makes it sound even more tinny-see 1 above!) 4) The back window and the rear view mirror, I can barely see out of the back window, it’s so darkly tinted, with sunglasses on I cannot see anything, and is quite dangerous to be honest, really relying on door mirrors a lot, and glad of the blind spot monitoring. 5) The ride. Well what can I say? If I was 20 years younger I’d be chuffed, but oh my Lord it really is a bone shaker and teeth chatterer! The larger alloy wheel really make a difference in making it very hard on the spine, I know I can swap the wheels out, but I refuse to spend anymore money, so just going to have to live with it. So, what it has done is made me realise just how far other manufacturers have come! I have a 2021 Vauxhall Corsa e and it really does put the Yaris too shame in many areas, I suspect the Vauxhall won’t be anywhere near as reliable and even perhaps hard wearing in the long term but it is a surprise to be honest. Thankfully the Yaris is the wife’s car, so I’ll only drive it occasionally. The Yaris is still a good car, and plenty of positive things about it, but perhaps I was expecting too much from it? 🤔

Yes! I agree with all those points! And you forgot the massive A, B and C pillars and low mirror - The rear 270 degrees visibility is the worst of any car I've ever been in (Aside from a transit van ) and the A-pillars hide on-coming cars at the exact angle they come at you on roundabouts! The door tinniness is very much a throwback to the Mk1 Yaris, which had the most hilariously tinny back doors And I can confirm the ride comfort on the pothole ridden hellscape I regularly drive on was improved massively going from 17" rims to 15" rims, as well as a small bump in mpg (I opted for steel ones so I don't care if I kerb them and also the insurance companies couldn't jack up the premium! ) However the Mk4 is such a perfect car for me I don't care! It's just so nice to drive and is even punchier than even my old Mk1 D4D, and despite driving like I stole it most of the time I'm still getting a tank average of 72-75. When I wasn't and was just driving 'normally' I was getting into the low 80's last summer! I can't think of any petrol-powered car that could do that. I just filled it up in preparation for the Enfield Car Pageant tomorrow - Done about 350 miles, only got in 22 litres! And the handling is sooo much better than any other Yaris before it; I'd say it even rivals the Fiesta, which traditionally is one of the best handling cars at this level. My one even has a HUD! I can't even think of any car in this segment that can have a proper collimated windscreen-displayed HUD! And the adaptive cruise control and auto-steer has made the long boring slog up the M1 far less unpleasant. It definitely has a lot of flaws, but what it does well it does really really well.

Yes I generally agree with all your comments. However the economy of the car depends on its weight and aerodynamic design. As a point of note I have had paint devils attend to the Yaris now twice this past year to take out two dents. One in the roof, probably a small branch and one in the bonnet. Never needed them for to countless VW's in the previous 12 years. You will have noticed the contours in the roof line. Clearly there to add strength to a very flimsy roof. Dent Devils commented all the modern new small cars seem to be being built with thinner panels to cut down on weight and cost.

I agree with planc comment the mmt is a manual gearbox with electronic clutch and gear controls bolted on to it. and should not be treated as a manual. if you hold the car on an incline using the revs your riding the clutch etc. the cvt transmission in the hybrids are great. all toyota hybrids are cvt as its the motors delivering the drives to the wheels.

If it has an eco button, this will also make it shift lower down the rpm range as above, treat it like a manual* come off the throttle then up shift, the gearboxes are a bit dim witted but the later cars are the best of the MMT the new Aygo X is a CVT auto the worst of the automated manuals are the smart Fourtwo and the terrible........ i would rather get the bus Vauxhall easytronic

We are talking pure EV range here rather than the appearance of the EV indicator or 'green' traces on journeys recorded in the app. For your PHEV the literature quotes something like 47 miles and "up to 80 mph" (but not both!). For the HEV I've seen claims of "up to a mile" and "up to about 25 mph" with the strong caveat of "under appropriate conditions" (i.e. you stopped with a pretty much fully charged battery and everything else is going your way) - I've never seen anything formal or greater than those. Which is just fine - it's a hybrid; it's not an EV. And as others have said, HEV owners can use pure EV mode "under appropriate conditions" to move the car short distances (yards not miles) without requiring the ICE to fire up.

Getting closer.. 😀

Update: Shock absorbers changed and the noise is gone 👌

I know, and it won’t bother most owners and Toyota are making a huge savings on that. The things is that every little cut in terms of refinement and insulation when you add them together at the end may affect a bit the overall comfort and driving experience.

It's the Multi-Information Display ... 🙂

I tend to use ev mode when the car is cold and I need to shuffle around and I won’t be using the car any more that day. It saves the engine from starting and then not getting warmed up, it doesn’t give you very long in ev though.

All 2.0 and 1.8 Excel have the mat.

Just like Frostyballs I have always used the supplied lead that plugs into the 12v socket to power my Garmin Sat Nav without issue. On the other hand I do use a USB to 12 adaptor to power my dash cam when I want to run it in parking mode but in this case I plug it into a USB power pack not the car's USB. It sounds an expensive solution but I have the USB power packs anyway as I use them to power some robotic cars using Raspberry boards so for my parking solution it was just the cost of the adapter. At least this way there is no way of running the cars battery flat. Vbestlife USB Port to 12V Car Cigarette Lighter Socket Female Converter Adapter Cord: Amazon.co.uk: Automotive Anker PowerCore Essential 20,000 PD Power Bank, External USB-C Battery with 20,000mAh 20W Power Delivery, Compatible with iPhone 12/12 Pro / 12 Pro Max / 8 / X/XR, Samsung, iPad Pro 2018, and More : Amazon.co.uk: Electronics & Photo

More fuel to the fire 🔥 regarding the poor state of Toyota's connected services. The major problem for Toyota is that they record so much data in their Hybrid Training analysis. Think that it's a bridge too far and by no means a must have as far as I am concerned.

Yes just like my Lexus with the eCVT.Its an amazing smooth gearbox.

hi more than likely one of the larger fuses in the engine compartment fuse box is blown.

The way to drive a MMT car is to drive it like a manual gearbox because essentially that is what it is. If you drive an Auto box you can keep the accelerator pressed down as it changes. In a manual you would lift off the accelerator before changing gear. So when you drive a MMT you need to sense when the box is due to change then back off, or rev high then back off to allow it to change. Not really an Auto and should never be advertised as one.

I think the shift indicator is an EU-mandated thing to try and get people to drive more economically but in every car I've seen them in apart from a few diesels they're set far too early - If you shifted when it told you you'd be lagging the poor engine all the time!

On an 09 it should be a 1NR-FE https://toyota-club.net/files/faq/13-01-01_faq_nr-engine_eng.htm#1NR-FE 13750-75020 valve adjuster it's a hydraulic lifter if you haven't already, give it a flush and oil change with the correct oil (0w20 or 5w30) and new filter, with such low miles its more than likely on the old SC20HR11 plugs too - now replaced by the SC16HR11 plugs i wonder if the cabin filter has ever been out of the car i would also flush the brake fluid and coolant too

I agree that the shift points in auto and manual mode could not be more different if Toyota tried. I got so annoyed with the high revving in auto mode that I stopped using it within a week or so of taking delivery in October 2020. In manual mode I have to say I ignore the shift indicator as it often seems not relevant to the road conditions. I often block shift e.g. double pressing the paddle in quick succession to effectively go from 2 to 4 or 3 to 5. Only thing that now annoys me is that sometimes when I'm just pottering on level roads it won't allow me to shift up using the paddle, so I squeeze the accelerator a bit more so it allows me to upshift and then ease off which means it stays in the higher gear.

Thanks for the info but after reading all your replies I've decided to just buy another kit from here https://www.amazon.co.uk/Slime-CRK0305-Smart-Tyre-Repair/dp/B003QHY000/ref=sr_1_2?crid=BLN3U6FY06YA&keywords=spare%2Btyre%2Bfoam&qid=1653671094&sprefix=spare%2Btyre%2Bfoam%2Caps%2C90&sr=8-2&th=1 Just hope the next puncture isn't in the sidewall of the tyre fingers crossed

Apparently, some folk have exceeded the 2000 event limit in well under 3 hours. But the limit is 2000 events, so if you have an "uneventful" journey it could, potentially be many, many hours long. Events include EV on, EV off, hard acceleration and hard braking. But if you just cruise along in hybrid mode (after you've used up you PHEV EV range), the system will rarely switch-off the ICE - it will either be used to drive the wheels or generate electricity for later - so there will be relatively few EV related events ...

The ES is perfect at £45,000 although just gone up in price, my friend has the takumi build nothing can touch it from Germany regardless of price. The paint makes it special and the stitching spot on my drive is not big enough and the roads where i live don't deserve this type of car, very sad. My camry of old was a world classic 2.5 v6. The 3 litre also was just as good

When I bought my 2013 Touring Sports hybrid, I was very uneasy at not having a spare, and found a spacesaver on eBay. I'm glad I did, because I have since had two punctures (one a tear/split, and one right on the shoulder) which like yours were unsuitable for the pump/goop repair kit. I've had similar experience with a pushbike which had had Slime put into its inner tubes. Does this method actually ever work?

It will sound **** in the boot - with most sound systems you want the sound stage up front, sound deaden the doors, a half decent set of 2 way components and a small power pack amp like an alpine KTA-450 or a Pioneer GM-D1004 Maybe an under seat sub, is only a small car you don't see many mk2 3 door Aygos ps. house speakers are typically 8 omh whereas in car speakers are 4 ohm you risk killing the amp chip in the radio edit. the speakers can go it the rear pocket in the trim with a little bit of fabrication

It's explained in the Smart Connect operators manual. The system uses live mapping via the DCM so the maps are always up to date. The only mapping data stored in the infotainment unit is the back up base map data that is used if the DCM doesn't have a data connection. These base maps are the ones the dealer can update. That message is perfectly normal.

I thought the battery on a RAV4 HEV was around 1.6kwh and the motor was rated at 40kw (this could be different in 2wd v AWD, I'm.not sure). If it were a simple case of a full battery and using the full power of the motor until the battery was empty you would still only get a max of 2 and a half minutes from it, assuming these figures are correct. In reality we know from other topics it's not simple at all. I presume the motor always needs electrical power for the eCVT to work and manage "gear ratios", so it never allows it to go totally empty. Really the battery is a storage buffer so it is supposed to operate in a band somewhere around the middle for optimal use. Self-charging hybrids aren't really designed to be over-ridden for sole EV use and I don't think many other than Toyota even have an EV mode. It may be true that they say you can do up to X miles in EV but it's possibly not the best marketing. That being said, it's wonderful how they work and the efficiency gained in normal use.

Also known as parking lights.

doesnt bother me

I don’t think so but when you open the bonnet and you have no cover the car looks unfinished and a class below, perhaps even Yaris has this cover.

Hence my original question ... 🙂 But, as others have pointed out, it does work, and change system behaviour, if you just want to shuffle the car around a bit and don't want the car to decide to start the ICE just to warm it up a bit. I'm happy now. The big EV Mode button isn't entirely pointless. And I'll just go back to leaving the in Normal 99% of the time and letting it do what it thinks best ... 😉

That's right, but I think the setting within the MID settings menu being referred to, just stops the green car symbol from coming on.

If I select EV mode via the switch when it's not on I usually (possibly always) get a message saying it's not available.

It's essentially there for sneaking the car off the end of the drive or out of an underground car park. Useful for sticking the radio on when you're waiting in the car and don't want it to start up yet. But, the car makes all sorts of choices about when you can use it. Battery level, battery temperature, engine load, engine temperature all factor into the 'yes you can' decision. People sometimes try and use it to better their fuel economy, but, the car has to replace all the energy you use in forced-EV mode anyway, so it can be counter-intuitive. The thing to remember with the hybrids is, it doesn't need to be in EV (forced or normal) for the benefits of the hybrid system. The car is constantly siphoning power into and out of the battery to help the petrol engine run more efficiently.

I use it quite often. If I'm just moving the car a bit on the drive, or sitting in it to set the NAV. The car will override it if it needs to to charge the HEV battery. EV does last a long time if you're not actually moving. But yes, because the car usually holds the battery at 50%, adding and taking alternately, you sometimes don't have much EV.

My 2008 has a similar thing...

The other one is Toyota Techstream

I didn't think it was the key programming that was to blame and suspected it was a software problem. I had expected it to suddenly reappear but after so long I am beginning to doubt it.

#1 87050C is for recirc function #2 87050D is for air direction #3 87050E is for temp function

It's not the key. It just happens randomly through a combination of poor software doing the data management and warehousing and ropey servers. Happens randomly which means it is a complexity issue with sloppiness.

Think the 2ltrs have it, but the 1.8s dont

Corolla. I had a journey last 6 Thursday, fine, Sunday 2 legs no trace on either. Monday fine, today fine. I had had a time earlier this week when MyT reported Error, try again later. I think it is the Server and not the car. Just think on the data handling. Every time every car switches off it sends its data package to the server. Is in conceivable that the server just misses a few packages? I would guess the number of smart connections will only increase.

Love that number plate. That's why I couldn't get it!

Here is mine. Love it

It's a slightly annoying trait I've found with mine too - Unless I have more than 4/8 bars of charge at power-on (Which is almost never in the Mk4!!) and can hit the EV-mode button fast enough, my Mk4 also just fires up the ICE when I first start it, even if I'm not moving. Now, it is deliberate and normal so don't worry there. The reasoning is to get the ICE ready to work as soon as possible, so e.g. get oil pressure up and fresh oil circulated round the engine, and start to get it warmed up and make sure it's all working properly, maybe put a bit more charge into the traction battery etc. It does make some sense, as if it didn't the engine could very easily find itself going straight from a cold start to motorway speeds which would not do its longevity any favours !

In my previous jobs I worked for a number of component suppliers to a number of car makers - including Toyota at Burnaston. When I decided to go self-employed the car I chose to buy was as a (used) Toyota. Why? - because Toyota was my most demanding customer. Components were tested to death - and no changes, no matter how small, were allowed without very thorough testing and approval. However, problems do sometimes occur, despite the best efforts of both Toyota and their suppliers. It’s not always due to cost cutting. Rest assured that the supplier of these bushes will have been put through the wringer to resolve the issue - most probably at a large cost to the supplier - both financially and in terms of reputation. But as we all know, s…. happens. And it’s how you resolve the issue that is important.

Go to Toyota website (with chrome) where you can see the stages of your order. Press F12, select network and in "filter" type your order number. Refresh the page. You will now see a list and your order number will be visible there. Select it and you will be able to see ETA and other info.

I would set the tyre pressures to the correct pressure and reset the TPMS yourself, easy done 👍

Having had to take evasive action on the M25 when a rear door mounted bike rack and 2 bikes parted company with the car in front, I wouldn’t go anywhere near one. Especially when there are so many tow ball/bar mounted ones about. Also I have seen the remnants of at 2 others at the side of the road. I no longer get anywhere near a car with a rack held to back of car with a couple of bits of rubber strap.