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Makes sense Philip and agree that there will still be potential for an upgraded RAV PHEV between now and any potential ban on sales, The 2.5 ICE may be a big lump but it's probably one of the most engery efficient big lumps around and tuned to match the current battery technology. I could see a next generation RAV incorporating solid state batteries which are smaller, lighter and have more energy density. Toyota is now capable of manufacturing these in production volume and scaled up could do so in the next couple of years. Lots of articles https://uk.motor1.com/news/559246/toyota-solidstate-battery-production-2025/ https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a38711469/toyota-solid-state-batteries-2025/

And as folk concluded in that thread, the current WLTP rules accord the RAV4 PHEV an unrealistically high economy figure. The aim is to come up with a more realistic figure for the next go around, and I doubt that anyone could really complain about that. But, equally, the PHEV economy is going to be no worse that that of the HEV, and probably better by a factor of two or three, going by the sort of economy figures our resident PHEVies are reporting. I really can't see any reason why Toyota would discontinue the PHEV in the near future. The EV infrastructure is nowhere near ready, so, as Ernie says, we are likely to see [plug-in] hybrids on sale until around 2035. The RAV4 was introduced in 1994 - we are now on the RAV4.5. While I can't see much scope for an all electric RAV4 - the bZ4X covers that space - we've plenty of time for next generation hybrid 4.6s and 4.7s ... 😉

It might be worth getting the dealer to have a look if it's reproducible, but it may also just be getting used to the brake-by-wire - The brakes in the hybrid are completely computer controlled, like the accelerator is, and it takes some getting used to in edge-cases. It's one of the things I dislike about my Mk4, that the feedback from the brake pedal is artificially generated and doesn't always match what the brakes are doing, and occasionally I find I have to brake harder than the feedback from the pedal suggests in order to brake enough.

Hi, what you have experienced it is a typical for all Toyota hybrids but does not or perhaps should not have happened in normal conditions but only when ABS has been activated due to a slippery roads or emergency braking or hitting a pothole. To regain normal brake operation you need to release the brake pedal completely and depress again then the system will operate as normal and the brakes will work as they should and be good. If no ABS was activated the transition between regenerative braking and disc brakes should be seamless and when the actual brakes kick in you should feel really good stopping power. If unsure or thinking something is not right better to check brake system physically and with a diagnostic for stored faults, but that’s not usual for these cars. 👍

Yeah it's best not to worry about it. The 3 main causes for the engine to start up early are: 1) HVAC is on and temperature is set above external temperature - Result; Car starts engine to generate heat to raise cabin temperature to set value 2) Battery is below 40-50% charge - Result; Car starts engine to put charge into battery 3) Driver presses accelerator more than MG2 can provide - Result; Car starts engine to provide additional torque It's really tricky to not trip one of those in the morning unless you are a quite OCD - I've only managed it once so far

Well there is no rated difference between the panoroof and spacesaver so any emissions difference must be negligible. However, going from 16" to 17" inches increases the emissions by 6g/km and reduces mpg by 4 according to the specs - A far bigger difference, so clearly they can't be that worried about the emissions, otherwise 15" would be the standard size and 16" & 17" would be the upgrades. And they're now adding 18" rims, so all a load of cobblers really. I'd much rather have 15" rims, space saver and all the other toys they wouldn't let us have like the 360 degree camera, self-parking, wireless charger, electric heated seats and steering wheel etc. than trade all of that for 17" rims, and I reckon most everyone else would too.

After standing overnight sometimes I can get to the bottom of the road before the engine starts & sometimes the engine starts immediately in my garage. I just leave it to get on with what it wants to do.

I just bought an Aygo and both sides were missing when I got the car. Picked up both from a breakers for £30 for the pair. The guy at the breakers told me to glue them in with superglue as they can come loose or get stolen. Buying 2nd hand I wanted to see the car they had come from.

Agree with Ernie and Iain, steering auto adjustment shouldn't be very perceptive. And the dealer should demonstrate how to change the settings on the radio volume, instead of just saying "it is normal". If you have other Toyota dealers nearby, try them. I had lots of issues with a dealer quite recently and used another one for information and parts, which run the extra mile for me. But insist with them, where your bought, to check your steering wheel. If you suspect is wrong and they don't check, return the car. You have 30 days from the purchase. Test drive others and compare.

Hi managed to do my pads and discs this morning with lots of wd40 and a long bar on the socket thanks for all the suggestions from everybody.

That's because people are idiots. You need explain things down to their level - Write a musical stage play and dazzle them like Lyle Lanley! After all, he managed to sell a Monorail system to Brockway, Ogdenville, and North Haverbrook! (I'm only half-joking...)

Thanks for all the advice folks. It is now running at 4.7l/100km (60mpg) happy with this

Yes, you are right, it is still more efficient than any comparable gasoline turbo engines. Diesel will win just because the internal energy of diesel fuel is 30% more and the compression ratio can be really high and can reach beyond 41% thermal efficiency. Toyota still holds the record on most efficient gasoline engines at 41% thermal on 2.0 and 2.5L D4S. With Corolla Adaptive cruise control, you can follow semi trucks at 100 km/h at maximum adaptive distance and get 3.5L/100 km consistently in Motorway or Autobahn.

Thank you. Hopefully this can be sorted quickly by Toyota

To be honest, I've found the brakes to be outstanding. Yes, it can be slow on ACC, but it doesn't have the processing speed or situational awareness if the human CNS, and if you ' hold your nerve' it actually kicks in and slams on I always brake easy, but on one occasion on an unfamiliar, shockingly bad motorway to motorway merge, with a giveaway and no acc lane, it stopped as if suddenly it had hit a wall!

Check water pump it could be causing noise.

Must admit that sounds like a bearing that's gone; Belt slip is normally more of a tortured cat shrieking sound.

It's a weird thing that random people seem to get here, not just in the CH-R but in all models here and there. Common causes seem to be bad sealing on the light clusters or boot lid, condensation, missing floor plugs

The advantage of the bmc is it is shielded, so exactly as you say Cyker the others just pick up warm air which actually reduces power But i agree, on the yaris it may only make a slight difference

It will be applied by robot - it looks unsightly it may be an issue in 15-20 years if the car doesn't get turned in to coke can's first or fuel is at £10+ a litre

That sounds like the alternator bearings or the AC pump clutch

I reverse out of my driveway and the engine always kicks in before I pull forwards onto the road. Hybrid control just doing its stuff. Not worried.

My 22 plate 1.8 Design hatch with wheels turned to full lock

Or pothholes involved but it did nearly become emergency braking

Off Topic: I was looking at this the other day and found an interesting article on the Ideal Home web site. Not as much as I’d have expected. At 20p per kWh An example F-rated 70/30 287-litre fridge freezer uses 275 kWh per year, making its annual running costs £55. While an example E-rated 70/30 267-litre fridge freezer uses 232 kWh a year, resulting in running costs of £46.40. Upgrade to an example D-rated 70/30 294-litre fridge freezer and its usage is 156 kWh a year, costing just £31.20 to run annually. It's worth knowing that energy ratings changed on December 1, 2021. That's because, under the old system, appliances were increasingly given A+, A++ and A+++ ratings as technology improved, which was confusing for customers. So in 2021, the system was recalibrated, and the ratings given from A to G. As a guide, products that were previously A+ in 2020, are now likely to be rated F or G. A++ is now classified as D or E, and A+++ translates to a B or C rating.

That is the right thing to do.

The warning light depends on the pressure when you reset it. I think 20% below is about right. It will not give any warning light if it is over pressure, if you accidentally put 44 psi but you feel how bumpy the ride will be. You can use any good OBD2 ELM327 compatible like Veepeak or Carista and use Tire Assistant apps. It also can read serial number of the TPMS. Don't buy random brand OBD2 that often are fake and cannot read complicated sensors.

I think all the known options have been discussed. I would suggest contacting the Toyota Multimedia team. https://fal.cn/3eeaN I use Apple CarPlay so it always reverts to that with no annoyance for me.

I failed to reset mine when I bought my used Corolla. (I did reset it the other day, but I haven't checked it) The best part for me, rather than looking for a number on the dashboard, has been how infrequent I've visited the petrol station, I usually visit once a month, with this car, but this is dependant on how often I see my side of the family and my daughter, as I work quite close to home so my journey is minimal. It's a vast improvement when I am doing the family visits, then too, as I get more mileage for my money on those journey's compared to the VAG's I had in the past. The worst part is since buying the car in October, it feels like fuel has jumped 60 pence per litre.

OP other than being a WUM, sell your Toyota. I'm even pushed to think you don't even own one.

has the OP shown us a photo of the poor paint finish from factory?

doesn't driving style also come into it? If you're heavy footed for instance?

Finally. One thing I wasn’t expecting, it has black headlining. I thought it was black only on GR Sport & Excel.

If you use Android Auto, connect the phone to the car using the USB cable. Select the app on the phone and use the phone to set your destination. The inbuilt screen will reflect the Google map directions. You may have to set the volume level on the infotainment for the directions. That's how it works for me.

It's purely infrastructure, the grid can only supply so much, and developers will only bring in a supply to suit the building flat's/apartments typically have a 60A supply or less The writing is on the wall for the PHEV, with the new incoming Euro standards 2025/26

The sad thing is that there is obviously a need as the 4 bays are fully occupied from what your saying. Sorry to hear you’ve run into brick wall with the project you put a lot of effort into trying to get it off the ground.

Dealers/ mechanics sometimes really has nothing else to say and talk bs hoping customer does not understand them. 🤔 Clunking noises can occur in any car while on full lock and making a turn. The reasons for that can be various and can be normal or indication of a mechanical problem. When steering wheel is fully locked mechanical forces cause stress to the metal parts like steering rack, steering column gear, cv joints, splines, bearings along with suspension components specifically shocks, springs, top mounts + bearings, ball joints and tie road ends, everything that moves while steering is turned. If any of those components above has its lubricant dried out, not properly applied in factory, or there is a slight play as a result of wearing out a cluck can happen. Sometimes the clunk will go away by itself but sometimes may require attention, tracking it and eventually applying some lube to fix the problem. Toyota cars are also well known for these clunks, clicks and rattling that comes from the steering column. , not an issue but just annoying. 👍

Ratchet crimping tools are the way to go if you going to use it an a regular bases. Heat shrinking tubeing after soldering yes I go that way if its under the car or under the bonnet.

Ah, what the hell... 2.0 GR-sport TS it is then

Not on this Rav, but on other cars I've had an initial clunk noise if car parked on full lock on the drive, but only in first setting off. It was never reproduced once under way. Brief Internet research at the time suggested it was unhealthy to leave the steering column/rack on full lock when stationary, but I can't recall exactly why. Your initial phrasing suggests that this knocking is recurrent/noticed in regular driving on tight turns, so perhaps not but could this apply to what you're noticing?

Better than seeing the front wheel tanking down the road. 😇

Your buyers remorse can't be as bad as Fourbanks' "bought from the wrong marque, everything about the car is wrong, I didn't see this coming, but I'll make a thread about every little snag" remorse 😁

Not exactly, the hybrids always will be more efficient than petrol only equivalent because even on high speeds they still work in combination with the electric motor and maintain lower rpm, similar to Diesel engines. In general with sensible driving the fuel consumption is very similar driving in town or motorway with some exceptions where if you want to be extra careful and drive on empty streets you can even beat the manufacturer figures 👌

You don't live on the nurburgring or something do you??

Reflection from the trees 👍

I thought that this was going to be another whinge, this time at the logo design!

I found this for you: https://www.ls2.com/boggs/Starting/Battery Hydrometer Displays Dark or Yellow Dot.htm#:~:text=Battery Hydrometer Displays Dark or Yellow Dot. The,color conditions on the hydrometer (1) is possible%3A

I suspect the MF part (which is widely used) will be 'Maintenance Free' which means it is essentially a 'sealed' battery but not necessarily an AGM type. If you take the battery out and move it around quickly and can hear the electrolyte sloshing around then it is going to be an EFB or enhanced flooded battery. No sloshing and the battery will be an AGM type with the electrolyte in absorbent matts.

Ready mode and solar charging are methods to keep 12v battery in healthy state not to rejuvenate or restore capacity on dead battery. Once battery is made flat only proper charging up to specific parameters and hours can eventually help but with the condition of using the car everyday afterwards, otherwise soon the recharged battery will go flat again. This is for people who use infrequently and on short trips only, the worst of all is not to use the car for weeks. here is some explanation of how 12v battery system works in Toyota hybrids

Hi, Although ground clearance of the RAV4 is somewhat higher than an average passenger car, it's still not feasible to just grab the catalytic convertor and run off with it unnoticed, without jacking it up quite a bit. It may therefore help to install an after market class-3 or higher alarm system with tilt sensor which makes the alarm go off when the car is jacked up. Stickers on the windows warn, that a horrible noise will result if they try. I have invested in such a system from new, which integrates into the standard Toyota remote & immobilizer system. It was installed before delivery of the car, under supervision of the Toyota dealership. It operates with the normal Toyota fob, and uses a random security key every time the car is locked. And it works! Even cleaning the windscreen without first deactivating the system, makes your heart stop for a while. 😖 It's half the price of the Toyota alarm option and I hope it's discouraging enough. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dLnGtR4IMHU