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I did get a nice surprise. I average just over 75mpg and this was not taking the dashboard reading. I converted the litres to gallons and then calculated the mpg. It seems to be driving on air. We drove at about 75mph on the motorways and the usual speed limit within urban areas. Hubby is so impressed he is thinking about changing his car. Might as well...there are no pockets in shrouds!

This is what I bought, https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B09878XD4X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The size of the flap is disproportionate to cable plug and so much bigger that other manufactures. It’s smaller on the BZ4x. I’d hope that any significant revamp of the RAV PHEV might well reduce the size. Mind you that would mean a different rear panel and flap etc., but it is a pain as it is and so easy uncovered to knock it and force the hinges further than it was designed for. The cover does tie the flap to the cable but again a shame that there is dedicated Toyota cover for this model.

Most vehicles don't use fuel metering anyway. They count the frequency and duration of injector bursts and use that to estimate fuel consumption. That's the main reason dashboard displays aren't ever accurate. A separate issue is the distance travelled is measured by counting wheel rotations and as the tyre wears and pressure changes the circumference will also. Thus the mpg is almost always calculated wrongly anyway whether it be calculated by the car or the driver.

Just a quick run over the oil change on the 21 plate Yaris. Because of very low mileage and buying it second hand, I decided to replenish the oil and change the filter. I’ve got a pit but ramps are just as good on a nice day. Bottom cover off allows a visual inspection of the lower engine. Nice and bone dry under there; It had started to discolour but as expected, no debris; Genuine filter of course. Part No shown and I always use a filter socket for removal and hand to tighten. Beautiful engineering with a spill preventing spout; Genuine filter pre greased; As with most Japanese engines, a one litre oil bottle screws directly into the oil filler; Double check there is absolutely no dust in the oil jug; I got my hands on 3X5 litres of 0W/8 oil off eBay from somebody who clearly doesn’t know how much it cost. £34 each - I’ll take all 3 thanks; I wouldn’t advise the normal vigorous engine clean but it got a quick do to cover another 12 months. SDS oil data. I don’t fill right up to the top mark but stop short by about 6mm to allow for fuel dilution.

To be honest I'd to happy with just another 2 inches.

You won’t find any soldering in OEM harnesses. It adds weight, time consuming, requires heat, solder gives off odour etc etc. All connections are crimped, then heat sealed if prone to water.

I added 20cm (8 inches) into mine. If I was doing it again, I’d probably add slightly more on the section that fits to the car and slightly less at the other end. However, that said it does work and protects from the rain, snow and muck getting into the plug area. For example we recently had a deposit of thick dust from the Sahara during a rain storm and the area under the cover was the only bit clean on the car.

Closer view of the inserted piece.

I've had it once in the 3 years of owning, you can reset the infotainment system by pressing and holding the on/off button. Saves the need to find a place to turn off and on your car

Just in case people come to this thread with similar issue, I managed to get the car going using a 12v leisure battery, and a cable leant against the terminal in the yellow circle (pic above) and negative to metal housing in engine bay. Car came on and I was able to drive it. Interestingly, I drove it for ~20 mins or so, expecting the 12v battery to have charged somewhat, but when I got back and turned it off, it was in the same state again. So maybe I need that replacement batter after-all - but at least I know how to get it going.

My charging port door has now dropped to the point where I need to lift it to be able to close it. I have to say I'm not surprised, it just seems so weak for the almost daily use it gets. Can't see it being urgent so may just get it looked at when it goes for the first service in 1-2 months. Seems like it could become a common fault.

Front bumper has a low lip that can be easily a scratched on these cars. Good to be extra careful. 👍

I have that one, top left. Bought it in a French service area over 40 years ago. I also bought a set of jump leads, really heavy duty and once complimented on their quality. I guess they might have been use able on a truck too. My wife wonders why I like browsing on the French service areas, but they often have good quality stuff rather than the holiday tat in ours.

The only decent crimping tool is a ratchet one!

0w8. Never even heard of that oil grade. Interesting to see the oil grades page. You learn something new everyday Great pics, btw

The new 1.8 5th gen hybrid Corolla will be a real deal and perhaps the best ratio performance efficiency.

Yes, my car has very low ground clearance. Already scraped front bumper with kerb whilst parallel parking. Kerb didn't appear particularly high and would have easily cleared it in my old estate car.(presumed they were same clearance). Be aware of scaping bottom of doors when opening on these models when loaded too.

I like the new Yaris and Yaris cross and particularly their economy, not suitable for my use though. Or perhaps I should be looking for salvage one buy it, cut in two and stretch the body by 1 metre, sound proof it better and enjoy quieter and smoother drive while efficiency remain great 😊👌

I always thought soldering was superior as you'd get a better connection and a physical bond, but apparently this isn't the case in the automotive world - I'm told a crimped connector is much stronger than a soldered one and is less likely to fail due to vibrations and being knocked about, and is also easier and faster to do.

That's what put me of the Niro/Kona originally - They were very close to my EV requirements threshold, but after seeing them in person I was put off by the fact they were so much bigger than my Yaris but somehow had less interior space!

When reversing off my mother's drive the underside of the front bumper will scrap the pavement just as the wheels go down the drop-kerb. I usually park in the road now because of this.

I don't know, but with all this war in Ukraine stuff, I believe they're cheating on the fuel they're selling. My car works fine, but since February, I notice the car more sluggish. On inclines, the difference is staggering. Usually, I didn't need to shift down, but since then, I have to put it in 4th gear to go up an incline that normally I could it in 5th gear no problem. I've been also noticing other cars having the same problem. For instance, I use the bus a lot, my car is only used on the weekends. The buses are very sluggish on inclines, much more so than normal. New buses, with modern engines, have to shift down a lot to get through inclines. I notice this on buses and other cars. I also thought it something with my car, but the shop tells me everything is OK, and it seems to be. On a flat road, seems absolutely fine and nice to drive. Only under heavy load you notice the difference (foot down, inclines). I'm on diesel, you're on petrol, but you're not the only person complaining. I'm in Portugal, you're in the UK and it seems this is all connected. Of course, I may be wrong. Also, worth to note that I have always used BP Ultimate Diesel. EDIT: In Spain they're also complaining about the fuel quality.

Sorry, magnetic strip.

One advantage of having an all weather cover over the port/cable/door when charging is in progress.

Usual tip, small area first. If you have had any of the glaze sealers they might need reapplying.

A cheap set of ratchet crimpers, for a tenner or so, is magnitudes better and safer than the non-ratcheting ones. Even for home use, they don't go off sat on a shelf.

It's not that your dealer won't supply them, it's because those parts have never been available, that N1 code at the bottom of the picture explains. Try somebody like Polybush, they might be able to help

Guessing? Ok mate 👌🏼

Turns out I had to remove the +44 before it would work again. Have no idea why this stopped working now but hey ho!

You say the engine slows quickly, so the belt isn't slipping plus a slipping belt is a lot higher pitch squeal, mk1 uses the alternator to tension the belt if it's over tensioned it will kill the bearings over time use a mechanic's stethoscope or a long bar to your ear to pin point the noise, high gears means the engine is not under such a high load or take the AUX belt off and spin the pulleys, by hand you will soon find it Ah, the A/C doesn't work it could well be the A/C clutch/bearing - you can sort it out or put a shorter non A/C belt on the car

Rear lights seals. Need lights clusters off the car, cleaning thoroughly the body panels , clusters and replacement of the seals. Water into boot its a bad and concerning thing as after the spate well is full water will find its way into the hybrid battery and can even cause battery issues. Better to be fixed soon. 👍

Must admit that sounds like a bearing that's gone; Belt slip is normally more of a tortured cat shrieking sound.

Over the years I had some issues with DIY crimping tools, where hte crimp has come undone. I have bought some ratchet type crimp tools but my favourites ate the red handle crimping pliers for insulated terminals and the dark blue handled non ratchet crimp tool for insulated terminals.

OP other than being a WUM, sell your Toyota. I'm even pushed to think you don't even own one.

Bolts made from the wrong grade metal ?? Pulling threads, or the hubs are made from chinesium

Just general maintenance TBH, i would still have a look at the plugs and do a fluid change on the gearbox

Ratchet crimping tools are the way to go if you going to use it an a regular bases. Heat shrinking tubeing after soldering yes I go that way if its under the car or under the bonnet.

Ah, what the hell... 2.0 GR-sport TS it is then

Not a fan of using crimps but if I have to then ratchet crimp pliers are a must. As for jump leads, here's some I made at work many years ago, cables are clamped & soldered. There retired at home now as we have a jump box in the workshop which is more convenient.

Yeah, there has never been a better time to swap a new car - In the past you'd lose a chunk of its value just driving it off the lot but right now you can probably swap for no loss; I've even heard of people making a profit selling their car on shortly after buying it because of the demand outstripping supply! Also I feel we might need to start a cute doggo picture thread...

Ah well, that way lies madness - there's no real hope of finding charge points in Wales (says Philip, from Wales 😁 ). If I had a pure EV I'd have sufficient range by charging at home to get out of Wales before looking for a charge point. And I'm profoundly disinterested in Type 2 charge points - they are useless (unless, of course, you are charging at home overnight). 😉 Of course Type 2 is of interest to the PHEVies but TBH if I had a PHEV (and I just now tried to price one up) I'd charge it at home and then just use petrol once the traction battery ran down. OK, if I was in a car park with 'free' electricity of course I'd plug it in, but I couldn't see myself planning to take advantage of such opportunities. The bZ4X promises 150kW DC charging and a 10% to 80% recharge in about 30 minutes. That is entirely workable if the real range is over 200 / 220 miles (3-4 hours driving) - I'll need a break then anyway - BUT nothing less than a 150kW charger will do. And there simply aren't enough such chargers available these days.

It's funny - I felt weirdly happy when I first saw my Mk4 didn't have a vanity cover for the engine; It was surprising that Toyota were brave enough to omit it, but a decision I applauded as I've always thought they are pointless and are just another piece of fiddly plastic you have to remove when you want to get at the engine. Just shows how different all our viewpoints are!

I think it is unfortunate that you are getting disappointed by missing features that were never advertised or even exist :

It seems that the op really should have done his homework before purchase rather than afterwards!

You may just get a nice surprise! 😉

Extract from an earlier Fourbank's post in a different topic: "Personally Tony, i don't like the car, it's rubbish. i'm not the sort of person who goes for looks, i only purchased it for the heads-up display only nothing more nothing less."

Is there anything about your car you like? I'm sure every thread seems to be you whinging about something.

Wait what? What's the point of that if you still have to pay full-gouge rates??

I agree it should be more accurate. But until we got the Corolla, we didn't have it, or I didn't anyway. The get out clause is that Toyota say the driver should be aware of their surroundings. In other words, don't blame us if we get it wrong. Of course, I want to keep to the speed limit and observe the road signs. I always have. Touch wood, no points on my licence. But that's not thanks to the Corolla, I've only had it 9 months. Mind you, the Corolla is also very generous on the speedo, I think I am travelling about 4 - 6 mph slower at 70 on the speedo. Useful if you do creep a bit over on the motorway, speedo shows 75 but you are probably doing 69! If we commit a driving offence, we can't tell the law that it happened because the display was wrong in the car. I agree the technology should not be there to confuse us. I guess just use it as a second point of reference, or if confusing, switch it off. I think this technology is not to be relied upon,by all the comments we know that. It is work in progress, useful as a tool to warn you that you might have missed something, and make you double check. In the future, when we have driver less cars, hopefully the technology will be 99% accurate.Which is probably better than even the best drivers are now. So all I'm saying is that in my view, we always had to drive a car with little help from technology. I for one will enjoy carrying on like that, and use the tech as a back up curiosity only. The most useful thing in the Corolla for me is the built in Satnav and parking sensors! I would not want to lose those!