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Here's an anecdotal bit of evidence. In our 21 Yaris, when I wanted to move it in ev mode, even when I turned off the AC unit, the engine always started. Whereas in the Rav it didn't. Now in our 23 Yaris, I can move it in Ev and the engine doesn't start. I'm convinced there was a batch of lower quality batteries fitted a few years back.

Thanks for posting. Sorry to say however it looks a really terrible piece of writing, contains absolutely nothing new, and paints a dire picture of the bZ4X. These so called journalist have probably never even sat in the car, let a,one driven it, that miuch is obvious from their advert blitzed web page. After over 3,400 miles of driving over six months, we are very impressed by the car. It is ourt first ever Toyota and it's posibly the best car we have ever owned. Previously has Jaguar, BMW and many others. In the current climate we are now reguarly seeing 4 to 5 miles per Kw too !! We are now completely sold on the Toyota brand and very happy with the product. And we don't have to pay a subscription for things like heated seats and the like !!!

Quick update. Haven't had any issues with the PHEV. Not been on the forum so much. Covered about 3000 miles in the past 5 weeks on long business trips and driving around the North lakes for pleasure up at the second home (a van). Been up a lot of muddy unpaved trails with zero problems including some pretty steep inclines and over a few large rocks. Car is great. No issues with the battery going flat, that was definitely all down to the telemetry module (DCM?) and the update fixed it all several months back. Still not repeated the power loss issue and the strange message about hydrid power and the shifter position. That could have been operator incompetence. Getting about 52 miles per charge at the moment and about 53mpg. No trying involved. Just driving normally. Result. I'm definitely going to get another of these when I need to swap it next year (company car). May try for the GR Sport Model if I can get hold of one and depending upon how hard the ride is and ground clearance. Big if. Hope everyone is doing good with their PHEVs?

Hi Everyone, Sorry it's been a while - I have been closely monitoring the situation. I tried something else - I got the engine up to temperature, I was doing 70MPH, about to come off at the slip road, and selected B mode, and come totally off the accelerator. The ICE revved up really high, and must have cleared some of the filter clogs, as I did this one more time over that journey, and the car returned to normal, going into EV when the accelerator was released. The car had then been normal for quite some time, even after loads of my short journeys. It did start one morning, but the B mode thing helped again, and the car has returned to normal. Touch wood, the car has been totally fine, I occasionally put it into B mode and do that deceleration to 'blow out' the filter, and it seems to be working. I read this article: Particulate Filter: Is There One In My Petrol Engine? | SINSPEED And it explained that engine braking increases the oxygen throughput into the GPF / exhaust system, which ignites the soot, so that would explain the results. Thanks everybody for helping me get to the bottom of this, and I hope this helps anyone else with the same issue. 🙂

There are many redundant signs. The one I love is on the M5 south of the Avon IIRC. "No crash barrier for X miles". So? What do they want me to do? It is the lefthand side off the emergency lane. A new set of road markings have appeared on the A1. Large red bar across lanes 1 and 2 and SLOW painted on them. One set is before and exit and the other before the entry lane. What do they want me to do? Lane 1 is full with trucks and traffic at 60 and lane 2 at 70. Slow to 50, or 40 or what? In Germany, sensibly, there will be a speed restriction, say 60 mph, so you slow down from your 100+ cruising speed. Other signs get hit; a clue that they are in the wrong place?

I think the flashing beacons may probably belong to a bygone era, potholes are the bain of motorists lives and sadly councils do not see these as a priority. They always have money for projects they justify but they see motorists as just cash cows.😢

If E10 or E5 causes a problem I would consider that a major design flaw that should be fixed under warranty - An engine as new as these should be able to run on either with no problems as they are the legally mandated fuels for this type of engine. If the fuel conforms to the standards set but the injectors don't like it, the problem is the injectors, not the fuel. The fuel can only be blamed if there is e.g. contamination in it, like the case in Italy where some fuel was contaminated with Chlorine which destroyed some Yaris hybrid EGR pipes.

Truth is any fuel should be fine. I’ve used v power or equivalent for 20 years - my old Corolla was at 160,000 miles and ran perfectly and used no oil but it was serviced on the dot so maybe that played more of a role I don’t know. I’d always use a brand fuel but that goes back to the days 30 years ago where supermarket fuels used to cause problems with carb cars. I had a Fiat that wouldn’t run on Tesco for example. I don’t know why the dealer would say that about E5, on the spec sheets it says 95 oct. or higher. E5 burns hotter and is more efficient in my experience but yours might be different. I was told by my Mastertech friend that is COULD be caused by E10.

Hi, I will highly recommend to book an extended test drive or hire a similar car like Yaris mk4 or Corolla 1.8 hybrids and drive them for a few days along your usual way to see if you like them. Toyota hybrids drives a bit different from all other cars petrol or diesel and also different from any other automatic., they are very close to full electric cars as feel , acceleration and efficiency but at certain times they can be a bit noisy and felt underpowered similar to cvt automatic. Of course all that it’s not all the time and also can be minimised with different throttle use, when the car starts to whine about, pedal to the metal and the car will fly away with ease and less noise. Try one and you will either love or hate. I love mine and won’t change for anything else except fully electric car. 👍

Well you could, but someone else just mentioned the convenience of hard wiring. That is what I did with my 1.8 Corolla and had the dealer do with the Yaris Cross. Plugging in to a socket beats opening the bonnet, removing the fuse box cover, opening the positive blade cover, clipping the right cable to the right terminals, and reversing the whole process when charged. Besides, I can access the socket under my rear seat more easily than opening my bonnet catch on the right then opening the bonnet in a tight space in my garage before fitting the charger in the badly lit engine bay. Why do it the hard way every month when you can do it once?

I was warned by my salesman to not shut-off the car without pressing the brake pedal. Not shutting it down properly may result things not turning off and still run in background.

Or near us we have a pair of signs. Left one says Diversion Ends and the other is Diversion and an arrow. You're on your own sunshine.

What annoys me is when they put up a diversion sign making you head away from the road works, and don't bother to put up subsequent diversion signs to complete the diverted route. The worst diversion we've experienced was on the A82 when we were heading towards Skye. A crash at Tyndrum had closed the road, and we got diverted towards Oban. Ended up being an 80 mile detour.

Too true !!

On road round the corner from us few weeks ago they had more signs warning of the obstruction causing an obstruction,than the size of the hole in the road they were warning about. I wouldn't mind, but they happily leave dangerous potholes with no warning for weeks or months on end. Although talking potholes in the last few weeks they have filled quite a few in, ahh don't you just love local elections! Also they don't seem to put those flashing beacons on any more, not sure why, probably too disco for peeps nowadays.

Similar here, just under 4k miles now. When asked I always say to people that its an average EV, but a very good car. And the majority of things that make it "average" as an EV are fixable via software updates. Any car, EV or otherwise, has to fit the drivers needs. The BZ4x suits my family perfectly and we're also very happy with it.

Dala posted pics of a similar rear seat setup on a Yaris. I was going to do something similar to that. However, I have rearranged the garage a little to give better access to engine bay. I'll see how I get on with the croc clips for now.

Just references if you use simpler shields that are sold in eBay made from 3mm steel. The torque specs are:

Your usage are more than enough for charging the battery, doesn't need any solar or charging devices. The consumer act requires the vendor to supply a product fit for purpose for about 6 months, so they had to replace it at their cost. Shouldn't have any problem once replaced.

Fair enough. I work a fortnight on and a fortnight off and in the off periods I don’t always do much mileage or I’m away on holidays so during those periods I’m possibly more susceptible to a low battery than when I’m working (although sat waiting for the mrs with the ignition on (not ready) can cause problems as we’ve previously discussed). However, popping the bonnet up and taking the fuse box lid off seems less intrusive than having a trailing socket inside the car. Each to their own. The connection under the bonnet is literally just a heavy duty wire connected directly to the battery and is designed for both charging or jump starting (jump starting is a misnomer really because it’s never to turn a starter, only provide a remote power supply). There is no need or benefit in connecting directly to the battery. That is a bit like saying I need to shorten the wires on the battery charger - you don’t. i accept it’s not as easy for some because I can get at power backwards or forwards in the garage so if you prefer having a dangly dongle in the car, your choice. I have had the back seat out on several of these cars and can tell you the 12V battery terminals are extremely close to the metal seat frame so be very careful messing with the terminals - here; I prefer to use the fuse box connector; …and feed the wire out by the headlight, there’s plenty of room;

Exactly what Roy said. I park nose first in my garage so the driver's side rear seat is more accessible. I also thought the engine bay connector was primarily for jump starting and that for charging it is better to connect as close to the battery as possible.

Hi, what is the mileage of the car? These rumbling and vibrations are typical for this hybrid set up and usually are most pronounced at around 40mph at low engine load. If the car has blocked egr system or worn out engine/transmission mount the vibrations would be felt stronger. In cold weather perhaps the mounts are harder and transmit those typical vibrations and rumbling more. Just check the 4 mounts and if nothing else is worn or lose there is nothing to worry about. If the car has 100000 or more miles egr system clean highly recommended. 👍

This. I have charging my EV’s and the Yaris since owning them. I got a dedicated socket fitted near the drive and have a quick adapter lead fitted on the Yaris because of the battery location under the seat. Makes this inconvenience a lot less inconvenient! My Yaris does around 2000 miles a year, and I now charge around once a month (now that the battery is over a year old), which is basically in between its low use. My Aygo X which I concur is a bit slow and wheezy is used a bit more and has a much larger battery so I don’t bother with that one. I have to admit, I don’t need two cars, both get very little use, but owning my own car is my last luxury in the costly times we live in, and I ain’t letting go until I really have to!

Had my first flat battery situation yesterday after 11 months of ownership. Systems started initialising as normal when I powered on, but then it all went crazy with flashing displays, weird noises and finally the wipers came on and stopped half way. 🤪 My usage pattern is infrequent longer journeys rather than regular short trips and so this wasn't unexpected. Thanks to this forum I was prepared and had a Nocco booster under the driver's seat (rather than in the boot). I was up and running in a few minutes. I do have a CTEK charger and so today's job will be to wrestle with the battery compartment and see if I can fit an accessible connector for maintenance charging.

As for auto wash or hand wash scratches, there are much worse body damage. Don't park under lime trees. Don't park under pigeon or sea gull flight paths or roosts. And don't drive though a shed waggon load of dead day old chicks (done that) or several ton of blue dye powder (that happen near us). Wet tar is another good treatment to avoid. Done that too. Excellent underseal but a sod to remove from body work.

Really your choice is a hand wash or auto wash. I find the prices, like for like, very similar. The least expensive might just be soap, body brush and blow dry. If you pay the higher price you will start to get the minimum hand wash standard. Our local, there were 3 and now 2, spray with detergent, body, wheels and glass, then jet wash off. Next is a hand wash with high foam detergent. The wheels are also done. A further wash with clean water followed by hand drying. Door and boot shuts are done and you don't get that in an auto wash. Finally tyre rubber is blacked. Auto washes also tend to miss sill and under rear bumper and can wreck your wipers. If your hand wash misses bits, you can also ask them to ensure they treat that area next time you go.

We ordered it on the 29 December 2021 and took delivery on the 01 December 2022. It took 11 months, but was worth the wait. We were one of the last to get the tech pack and panoramic roof

My car has arrived at the dealership today, just under a month since ordering it (7th April). I can't go pick up up for another 2 weeks as I'm working, but very excited that it's here so quickly.

I totally concur with your other half. The HUD is great!

If you have a driveway or a garage a CTEC MXS 5.0 battery charger would be a worthwhile acquisition (£70ish). This will be useful for EVs in future as well as Yaris as they all have tiny 12v batteries. With the CTEC I charge my corolla (probably excessively) once a month in summer and every couple of weeks in winter. It takes only a few hours to charge, and 2mins to clip the cables on & plug in. Never had any issues and my car is used very infrequently in the week, and sometimes weekends too.

Hi all......its been awhile. Recently let down with my RAV PHEV. Parked up away from home only to find no response upon return to the car. Lots of activity on the mid but nil when pressing the start button. Quickly & efficiently sorted by the AA call out guy; flat 12v battery. Apparently he tells me it's very common in the EV/PHEV world. My confidence in the vehicle has taken a knock on this occasion. Disappointed.......Barry Wright, Lancashire.

I have a 2000 1.6 auto E110 Corolla. It is my first car and I want to know everything about it to make sure it is safe and in good working condition. It's a little old and just past the 95K mark. If anyone knows what the 100K entails I'd love to listen. Thanks, Luke

It’s a 2.0 version and it was just local journeys.

Won't get in to the con's of auto washes as this wasn't the OP's question. As mentioned above, the problem isn't with neutral ( what other purpose would the N be for if not freeing the driving wheels? ) but the auto brake. I believe in the Yaris, as soon as the power is switched off the auto brake engages so the only way to overcome this would be to enter the autowash but keep the battery switched on. Which is a really, really bad idea. Would you be covered by your or the operators insurance if the car was damaged? How much is expensive? Guys at our local jet/foam wash take £7 to clean a car.

I just installed mine I bought from UK seller. Unfortunately the washer were missing and without washer, it only has 2mm clearance to the back of the 2nd catalytic converter. So, I have to go to hardware store to buy 3-5 mm washer to avoid the rubbing. It vibrates on hard acceleration and rubbing the cat.

@taxidriver50005 as you mentioned the dealer advised against E5 fuel but @TonyHSD & @shufman suggest that the E10 would be part of the problem … so where is the truth about the fuel to use ?

Could someone send me update for my system please?

A picture paints a thousand words 😉👍

Yes the revs do creep up quicker than the speed, it's one of the quirks of the eCVT gearbox. It certainly does feel like a slipping clutch and takes a bit of time to get used to and feel happy about it. I would recommend a decent test drive to see if your girlfriend would be happy with it 👍

Again Thanks for replies. Not too sure My Girlfriend would want to start messing around with leads and charging etc. Battery under the seat a little annoying too, but one of the things I will do, is find a bigger capacity battery, assuming there is one and it fits, she does do longer journeys in a month, but as I said the car is used at least 6 days a week on average. Is also annoying they have lost the HUD 😞 and it seems some of the cars that go to Europe have heated seats, and heated steering wheel. I have also heard about the gearbox under heavy load, seems like the clutch is slipping, so the revs creep up quicker than the speed, is this true?

Lewis, good plan, but one suggestion. Check the battery voltage before you charge the battery. If the pre-charge voltage is a consistent value, say 12.1v (just as an example figure) carry on. Say the voltage one time is lower, say 11.9, then do a voltage check say 3 weeks after the previous charge. This will help confirm and establish the best recharge frequency.

You don't always need or want A/C....sometimes it's just nice to have fresh outside air...and if it's raining you can have the windows open a little without the inconvenience of having rain coming in. I've had them for many years and wouldn't be without them now.

Or is just misleading for people to put down their orders I’m having a 1 year anniversary cake tomorrow for my order 😉😁 👍

Another reason for higher revs is the engine trying to warm up - cold day & cabin heat demand, or trying to warm exhaust catalyst for emissions. I often find battery fills up whilst it’s trying to do this, and engine continues to run despite battery providing traction energy

In Italy are recorded many cases of problems with 2.0 and misfire, plus issues with egr too as a result of bad fuel. The Yaris mk4 has similar engine although only port injection. I believe the issue you had are in the high pressure fuel system and the direct injectors.

I do find it quite bemusing that we have recommendations, not just in this topic, advising owners who do a low mileage to go for a used, larger car, or a smaller new car, etc, etc. It's people's choice as to what car they buy, whether it is new, used, large or small, and there may be other factors (health conditions, access, garage size, etc) which affect their buying decisions as well as the fact they may just like the car they have bought or are purchasing.

Ditto for me.

Exactly, it’s not about engine running or vehicle running it’s about the time the traction battery is connected to the 12v battery and those runs are fine. You shouldn’t be put off buying one, it’s a fine car and utterly reliable.

Never had to use my booster on any of my cars so far, dangerous thing to say. But I’ve got my neighbours going a few times now and saves them a call to the recovery service.

I've done the vanity lights too now (again using the same silicone T10 LED bulb). These are probably the easiest to do once you know the secret. The right-hand side of the lamp fitting has the bulb holder and wiring, whilst the left-hand side has the plastic spring clip. So you attack from the left with a trim tool and push the spring clip clear of the headliner. These lights in particular are so much better with the LEDs.