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My Yaris MK4 hybrid system failed a couple of weeks ago, the dash lit up like a Christmas tree and I managed to limp it back to the local dealer. Having read the forum regarding this issue I thought I was in for the long haul but after just over a week the car was ready to pick up, having had a new damper installed and I have to say it feels better (tighter) and more responsive. Thankyou Toyota and thankyou RRG Huddersfield for your prompt assistance, my faith in Toyota which had been slightly dented, has been fully restored.

Hi I picked up me new car yesterday. Love it but I have a problem with the insurance. Twice spoke to Esure (😡) about changing the insurance from old car to new car expressly saying it was the 2024 model. Told her the car as the reg wasn’t recognised and she game up with a load of different ones for the design trim eg 134 HP HSD114 HP HSD vit 99 hp TSS 134 hp I kept saying it wasn’t any of them it was 116hp. In the end she said contact dealer and hung up! Phoned back the next day as getting desperate for insurance. The person said she had the right one but a bit difficult to understand. When I got the paperwork it has Yaris Hybrid Design HSD 114 bhp 1490. Dealer says it’s 116bhp which is what I had been saying. Tried a few sites and they bring up 2020 onwards which I don’t think is right. I can now put in to change my car online at Esure with my registration number but it just brings up what is already on the insurance. I didn’t want to take the car out today in case it wasn’t insured so will have to get back in touch with Esure but I don’t think I will get very far. has anyone else had any problems with insuring the new model. sorry for the ramble and thanks for reading. Anyway on a happier note this is my new car.

Don’t buy it unless is 30-40% cheaper than non repaired similar spec car. The insurance issues if any is your smallest trouble. As mentioned ppl aren’t honest and often repaired cars had been way worse than what they described. Accident repaired cars only worth if you buy it yourself broken and fix it by yourself. The biggest problems with these are structural weaknesses and in event of accidents your life and the life of any passengers are at greater risks. Then the next big issue is premature corrosion, rust , paint bubbling, paint pealing and no warranty on any body parts , basically you are loosing 12 years corrosion warranty. And finally the safety and electronics, cars post 2016 are full of these, Yaris has so many safety systems that will be either off permanently or will not function correctly. And final thoughts, the prices of category cars are very similar to non category cars, just move on and keep looking and do your checks and tests because there are also plenty of accident repaired non recorded cars which are also a full stop. The regular forum members are well aware of people coming here and sharing a list of problems after they purchase cars like these. Good luck

Why not get a few insurance quotes and see if it's a price you're prepared to pay?

should never have gone private! scamming the public !!

People lie. I'd really like to trust strangers, but experience says that's a really bad idea. Because a quick buck trumps being honest every day of the week. There are honest people out there, but the chances of any given advertiser being one is not worth the risk. Assume the worst - hope to be wrong.

In other words, as long as the OEM battery fulfills the test procedure criteria, they won't pay for the replacement under warranty. If the OEM battery fails the test procedure (during the warranty period), they will install the replacement - probably identical to what you have. The cost will be covered by Toyota. If you'd like to have a battery of a different brand (eg. Yuasa or Varta of larger capacity) which has identical dimensions and all required features (like a vent) then you have to pay for it but installing it won't void the warranty as it meets the manufacturer requirements.

My MiL was rear ended. Only slight damage to rear bumper. The car was written off. A shunt can transfer shock loads much further forward than you might expect.

Wow, they quoted May. I would be amazed if we got our cars then, happy if we do though! If there was a sweepstake I think I would bet for the back end of June

C, D, and N are classed as repairable. S is structural but can be repaired. I'd still avoid S unless I was convinced by repair evidence. Official details If buying a written off car you want someone who is upfront and honest about it and can show you photos of exactly what it was that was damaged and how it was repaired. Many times it is things that are expensive but completely fine to repair. Like a damaged door or body panel that can easily be replaced and brings the car completely back to normal again. Demand photos photos photos... and receipts.

That is almost exactly the average that the memsahib gets in her X. That is verified by tank-to-tank calculations. The fuel figures from the car are, AFAICT, pretty accurate.

They seem to be opimistic on possibly all cars, deffinitly most cars pretty much. My 2014 Auris Hybris is about 1.5 to 2 mpg optimistic, my Gen 2 Prius was about 2 to 3, I had a Skoda Octavia Diesel, that was around 5 or 6 and a Honda Accord 2.0 petrol was only about 1 mpg optimistic

look on ebay or a local dealer. always do your checks

Or maybe they are not needed that much with the rear camera? Plus people often forgot to extend them when having passengers on the rear seats and they were more prone to the injury in case of the crash?

Got mine today (with Safety Pack option) 😆, so here's a few more pics... another dashboard scenario and one of the infotainment. Plus the Juniper Blue colour.... I really love this it looks so much better in real life! Car is brill 👌💖

I wonder if some of the problem lies within the difference in HP to BHP ; 114 HP is equal to 115.58 BHP .

Auto Hold will also illuminate the rear brake lights I suspect that we are now confusing two different functions: Automatic mode on the Parking brake - i.e. the mode where the Parking brake is applied automatically when the driver shifts into Park and released when the driver shifts from Park. The brake lights will not illuminate just because the Parking brake is on (but, of course, will if you also leave your foot on the brake pedal). The Brake Hold function which "keeps the brake applied when the shift lever is in a forward driving position or N with the system on and the brake pedal has been depressed to stop the vehicle. The system releases the brake when the accelerator pedal is depressed with the shift lever in the forward driving position to allow smooth start off". In this situation the brake lights are illuminated because the 'brake pedal remains depressed (even if only logically). It is entirely the driver's choice which of these modes he/she uses. Personally, I use automatic hold on the parking brake and never the brake hold function. If I am stationary for a short while I hold the car on the foot brake; if I am stationary for longer I shift into Park - that works for me and suits my driving style ...

Great you've got your new car now... looks the bizz and enjoy! There was a bug issue on insurance on another thread here. Hopefully I have linked to it OK here... It was mainly to with completely new set up at the very beginning and Toyota seemingly slow to update new model to insurers. That particular bit should all be sorted now so I think it may just be the '3 day rule' for registration info to filter through to all systems. When it does it should all be 'as registered' with correct specs etc. It may well be quicker. I didn't have a problem switching over with Direct Line but I will go back now and check paperwork! (I am pretty sure it was done on reg number though). Hope you get sorted soon... 🙏

90% of problems are caused by people not formatting the SD card, format it and see how you get on. Weird things happen if you don't regularly format it. From the Nextbase Handbook

Thank you, I thought it may well be. If anyone spots a nice 2014 - 2017 1.2 or 1.6 manual Excel, please feel free to send me the link, there doesn't seem to be that many about although, to be fair, I am not in a rush. Many thanks all again.

Money to burn huh...I negotiate the price of the car (tastefully) ,press the buttons on their coffee machine myself, pick up car myself ,would never ever tip a salesman., could tell you the price of every car, I've ever owned! This brightens up my life no end ! Jobs a good un !

Give Fensport a ring or drop them an email https://www.fensport.co.uk/

That logic falls down very quickly when working with older cars. You could buy a car for a few hundred pounds and spend 10 grand on it - easily. You cannot look at it as a financial investment. It's an investment in yourself. Like a holiday. You'd easily spend £1300 on a holiday. It was the closest I could find, but you need to contact them to verify. Again, KYB, Koni and lowering springs like Eibach are perfectly fine alternatives. The difference is mainly that you cannot easily adjust ride height.

There's a conundrum in there. Are you buying it, or is he buying it? If he is buying it with limited funds then it might be a good chance for a decent car in his price bracket - if it can be proved good. If you are buying it or helping him with extra cash (which I did for my son not long ago), then it might be better to pay more to get a less 'complicated' car. (Something else to consider. Young drivers have high premiums because they are prone to hit things. (I wrote my first car off within a year or two.) It might not be serious but they may well collect bumps and scrapes, so getting something that is a bit worse for wear and thus cheaper may make sense.)

It may well do it if it's of decent calibre. The impact wrench makes it much easier when you're working on you own. Don't worry about the rust. You'll get the nut off one way or another. It's relatively straightforward as it's all chunky and strong mechanical bits (compared to working with rusty panel bolts, brake pipe unions etc. that shear off as soon as you look at them). If you are unlucky the drive shaft splines have seized in the hub, that is more challenging. Then you need a hand sledge hammer or a strong puller, or in worst case, a hydraulic press. But there's no point worrying about it, you deal with each thing as they come. Always allow for things to take longer than you think. Cars have a tendency to throw the most unexpected curveballs.

I've just been notified by Bishops Stortford Toyota that the parts are in and the car will be ready next week which is fantastic...... I have to say the team at Steven Eagell Bishops Stortford have been amazing in getting the parts so quickly and giving me a lovely 23 Yaris on loan within 4 days of the car going in!

Likewise. We had an Excel on order November 2023 - 2 weeks later the updated version was announced, so we cancelled the original order and now have a Silver Premiere on order. The dealer has indicated production this month delivery in May. I won't be surprised if that is pushed back a bit.

I have the same information as Mr Blibby from our dealer... the dealers were sent a powerpoint (or similar) presentation with some details of the specs, colours etc. There have been copies of parts of this presentation posted in this thread. Your dealer should have had this from Toyota.

Mrs B didnt like the Khaki as is too similar to another car we already have, so went for the silver.. would have preferred the blue....as I understand it, its a combination of the available colours + the production plan for each as to whether you'll be able to get a specific model in a specific colour in in a reasonable time frame .... note also, this info is a month or so old now, so things may have changed....cant believe it takes so long to produce a brochure

Does anyone know how accurate the average MPG given in the trip computer are. I have had my MK2 64 plate for a month which started with only 30000 miles on the clock. I have driven about 2000 miles since (delivering) and have averaged 53.3mpg. My previous 1.0 Yaris with 160000 miles averaged a little better but I always felt the numbers were a little optimistic.

Yes, I’d never give anyone a lift whose carrying a chainsaw…

It's very doubtful that you would notice any difference in handling. Sidewall height: 205/55 = 4.4" 215/55 = 4.7" So, you would gain only three tenths of one inch by fitting the 215/55. If you want a more comfortable ride, fitting a 15" wheel would give you a higher sidewall, but if you want "...improved handling/cornering..." i.e. less tyre roll, sharper cornering, then you should be looking at fitting a 17" tyre and wheel package which would give you a lower sidewall, but you would probably find the ride quality more harsh. https://tiresize.com/tyre-size-calculator/

They are a bit like the truth,rare but they are out there,que X files intro 🎵. Trouble is with written off cars,is they will always be re built written off cars, it's on the V5. Cat s,n or any other kind of cat, trouble with insurance yes, and if you are hesitant to buy one, so will everyone else in the future. Easy to spot on flea bay, eye catching price for the year/mileage, then bam yep it's a rebuilt write off.

My Carina did 250,000 before rust got it at about 15 years. The first 10 years or so was those sort of miles - lots of motorway. It was a 6,000 mile service interval but it never needed oil between services, though in it's latter years the level on the dipstick did get about halfway down the marked area. The engines and oils of 50 years ago may look the same to the eye, but they really aren't.

Poor man's Lamborghini Countach 😎

130 hp is only available on the new 2024 cross premiere, not before.

What's annoying is that this problem has persisted for a few years now and that Toyota has not deemed it appropriate to issue a general recall and be done with it once and for all, instead of this piecemeal fix it ****!

Out of curiosity, did it just happen out of the blue, or was there other stuff, e.g. potholes, high winds, hailstorm etc. that might have triggered it? Also, is the car still driveable? I panicked a bit when it happened to me, but being a person of questionable self-preservation instincts I immediately tried to break it again, but discovered the car would happily drive normally aside from the incessant beeping. Once I turned it off and on again and took it back on the motorway, I found I could still accelerate at full bore and I have since been unable to get it to do it again despite driving it in what tyrereviews calls 'a spirited fashion'

Can't comment on pre-facelift Corollas but my MY23 excel TS is quiet, more so than my previous Skoda. Reading up on the facelift Corolla Toyota made an effort to improve refinement. There is tons of insulation under the dashboard, carpets and in the boot plus it has acoustic glazing as standard. A few of the car magazines have commented that the facelift Corolla is a quieter car than many of it's rivals such as the mk8 VW golf, Ford Focus and Vauxhall Astra. Very little wind noise. There is some tire noise but I'm putting that down to the stock falken eco tires which are frankly, s**t. From past experience tires make a huge difference to refinement in cars.

I have fit a Prius wiper stalk to gain variable intermittent front wipe, and I installed a reverse camera because the Citroen C1 grade I have has the touch screen but not camera. I ordered a conversation loom from AliExpress but it didn't fit the stereo connection however I noticed the stereo had a loom connected to the camera connector. So I looked behind the bumper and noticed a blanking plug on a spare loom. I managed to find a reasonably priced genuine camera from a breaker on a well known auction website. When the bumper is removed you can see a template to cut out the hole and there is a mount moulded onto the bumper for the camera. So I would advise checking behind the bumper for the spare connector before purchasing a conversion loom and cheapo camera😄

I've tried using the paddle shifters in S mode, and either I get confused, or the car gets confused, and I end up going back in to D and relaxing again. This car has made me a very lazy driver 🙂

You can get sat nav directions on the instrument cluster - mine is setup on the right dial of view 3 for instance. Don't think its possible in the centre part though. Its in the owners manual (p216 on mine): Select to display the following navi- gation system-linked information.  Route guidance to destination  Street name  Compass

I haggled and got a good deal on mine.

Good luck mate. And u need it!

The pen is mightier than the sword 🤪

I finally decided to install a hood insulation pad on my 2022 1.8 TS. Bought one from Ebay for £30ish, which according to the listing wouldn't fit the TS, but never the less I decided to give it a go. Not very professional job, but with a bit of adjustment I manage to fit it in place, and I am happy with the result. The engine's roar is a bit softer when pushing the car over 3.5k revs, and generally the car is a bit less noisy on the motorway, once again as the noise from the engine is a bit softer. I wonder why don't Toyota fit those as standard??? So far I've got all 4 doors + most of the boot insulated with Noico 2mm sheets, all 4 corners with GoodYear EGP2 tyres and now the hood insulation pad. Next project is to add door rubber seals. Few people here have done this already. Can someone tell me which shape will be most effective, please. There are so many of them I got no clue which one to go for Generally the noise is much improved already, but because of that the wind noise around the door's windows is more present and quite annoying.

There's a huge thread on that very topic, with some highly experienced forum members giving sound advice. What year is your TS and which areas are the noises coming from?

The red carbon wrap faded to a rather nath pink so I purchased some red vent surrounds from a breaker on a well known website.

For anyone who's looking: I've sourced the locking cap as part no 43525-16010 from Toyota. (the above is smeared full of grease)

We can try to get used to it but many will never do so. We've all been had. Future models will undoubtedly be corrected. Other cars meet the Stage IV emissions standards without these tricks - which by he way includes up to 15 seconds revving almost to 3000rpm a cold startup.