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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/29/2020 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    Picked up the GR 2.0 today absolutely love it. Ash Grey bio. I’ll get some pics up soon.
  2. 3 points
    I have used 'Williams F1' waterless wash and wax for the last 4 years and would never go back to a bucket or hose pipe etc. Never had any scratches using it and it's quick and leaves the most incredable shine and also protects the paint from birds muck etc. The more you use it the less you need as it builds up a layer of protection over time. Great if you can't use a hosepipe as well.
  3. 3 points
    I have the exact set up except I stayed away from karchers soap product and instead use autoglym polar range, polar blast then sit for 10 min use polar wash and a wool wash mitt and then use polar seal to seal the water out of the body work as I didn't trust the karcher soap it was too loose for me and fell right off the car Remi
  4. 2 points
    Hi Guys I remember when after a service your car came back from the dealer all shiny and clean having had a wash and an internal tidy up. Those days are long gone as mine came back with a fresh coating of pigeon poo and probably a Covid19 coated free plastic seat cover. Any way the point of this thread is to describe my attitude to car washes in that i now avoid them like the plague in fact any sort of car wash. Why because you usually end up with scratched bodywork even if you use a hand wash which can be a nightmare. When i acquired a Golf GTD mk7.5 two years ago i went to a reputable hand wash and the car came out with scratches more or less all over the paint work. I can only assume that the filthy cloth they use for the wash had abrasive dirt on it etc. I now use a Karcher jet wash with the Karcher Car shampoo and the Turtle Wax Redline for the wheels and the results are amazing with lasting shine. First i use a Karcher pressure spray for a basic clean to remove any dirt mud etc . I then empty a small amount of Karcher Car shampoo mixed with a bucket of water and apply liberally over the the bodywork leave on for 5 mins and jetwash off gently so as to speak and leave to dry. I have found it unnecessary to polish with a soft cloth etc as once the car has dried it leaves a shine on the bodywork without water stains etc which lasts for weeks. The wheel cleaner is brilliant, its a spray on job wait and wash off. You can use a brush to remove stubborn stains or marks but i have found the Redline does the job without using anything else. Oh i forgot to mention that auto washes guarantee swirly scuff marks in your precious paintwork and the owners view it as a free extra but then you guys probably know all this. PS I have no personal investment in Karcher or Turtle Wax
  5. 2 points
    Bilt Hamber pre-wash, rinse off with pressure washer. Followed by Turtle Wax snow foam which is left to dwell for about 10 minutes or less depending on temperature. Further rinse with pressure washer followed by 2 bucket contact wash method with Bilt Hamber concentrated shampoo with both buckets fitted with grit guards. Rinse followed by either good quality microfibre towel dry or air blower. Polish with Autoglym Super Resin Polish - which is actually one of the best swirl removers/fillers on the market and then a final protective coat with Bilt Hamber double speed wax. I’ve had the car since March and due to lockdown have spent more time washing it than driving it.
  6. 2 points
    Do you use 2 Micro cloths per session, and wash them, or new cloths every time? I have some Williams F1 cleaner, but have been too frightened to use it especially to get the winter grime off! I did spend to have the "Bionic" treatment before the car was supplied, and it comes up very shiny when I wash using the maintenance pack they supplied.
  7. 2 points
    I am with you on this. I been using waterless wash and wax for around 10 years, Williams is a good product. I also coated the car with Carplan Number 1 after a Williams clean. Stunning look.
  8. 2 points
    Meguires Swirl Remover might be worth a look at. Had a Decuma Grey auris many years ago now and it improved some patchy swirls on the bonnet very well.
  9. 2 points
    Living in a flat I can only ever use a locally run jet wash place. And even then I only use the lance, never the brush attachment. Once whilst waiting to use the jet wash I sat in disbelief as this guy's kid scrubbed the floor with the brush. RIP to anyone who uses that public jet wash brush.
  10. 2 points
    OBD-II Bluetooth scanner and the Hybrid Assistant app will show you the various temperature readings, you don't need Techstream or fancy stuff for that. There are four main temperature readings - engine coolant, inverter coolant, motor-generator, and HV battery (well, there are multiple battery sensors). I don't know which are tied to the high temperature warning light - possibly all of them? Which temperature sensor did you replace?
  11. 2 points
    @ Konrad, I've read all about the cut-outs in your previous posts. Your above photos provide the best explanation of the problem, thank you. I read your posts in case I end up with an Avensis one day! Martin
  12. 2 points
    Wikipedia, that bastion of accuracy, where data is only entered by neutral individuals.
  13. 2 points
    How many years warranty would you like on the hybrid battery? For 2020 model cars Toyota have extended the Hybrid battery warranty from 100k miles/8 years to 150k/10 years PLUS if you have a Toyota service every thereafter (up to 15 years) they will do a Hybrid battery health check every year and extend the warranty by 12 months accordingly. 15 year hybrid warranty, name another manufacturer that matches that. and the price of Hybrid batteries have fallen a lot over time, now a Prius battery is just over £1200.
  14. 1 point
    On sale October - https://newsroom.toyota.eu/the-new-toyota-rav4-hybrid-black-edition/
  15. 1 point
    New generation Yaris will be available as Icon, Design, Dynamic, Excel & Launch Edition. Icon will feature: •16" Alloy Wheels •Toyota Safety Sense 2.5 •Adaptive Cruise Control •7" Multimedia + DAB •Smart Phone Integration •E-call/DCM/Voice Activation •Driver Seat Height Adjustable •Reversing Camera •4.2 Coloured TFT Display •Leather Steering Wheel •Front Power Windows •Power Heated Mirrors •Automatic Headlights •Automatic Wipers •Rear LED Lights •Rear Spoiler •EPB + Armrest (Hybrid) •Auto A/C (Hybrid) Design will feature Additional to Icon: •16" Machined-face Alloy •Rear Privacy Glass •LED Headlights •Full Rear LED Lights •LED Fog lights •Rear Power Windows •8" Multimedia •Binocular-inspired Display •Painted Front Grille Dynamic will feature: Additional to Design: Additional to Design: •17" Machined-face Alloy •Black Partial Leather •Smart Entry •Push Button Start •Dual Zone Auto A/C •Passenger Seat Height Adjustable •Piano Black Interior Style •JBL® Premium Sound System with 8 speakers Excel will feature: Additional to Design: •17" Machined-face Alloy •Light Partial Leather •Smart Entry •Push Button Start •Dual Zone Auto A/C •Passenger Seat Height Adjust •Auto Fold Mirrors •Blind Spot Monitor •Satin Chrome Interior Style •6 Speakers •Front/Rear Parking Sensors and ICS with Auto Breaking Launch Edition will feature: Additional to Dynamic: •Tokyo Fusion & Eclipse Black Pearlescent Bi-tone •Auto Folding Mirrors •Blind Spot Monitor •10” Full Colour Head Up Display •Clear Blue Ambient Lighting •Auto Dimming Rear View Mirror
  16. 1 point
    According to Toyotas warranty for the annual hybrid health checkup, a report will be generated, so the costumer can see current battery status and capacity. Have you ever seen such a report? And what exactly did it say? At my last service I didn't see or hear anything.
  17. 1 point
    Extract from a Toyota GB dated 23rd July 2020 post on Toyota UK Blog: "We appreciate that you are very keen to learn more about the RAV4 Plug-In Hybrid, but we currently have no new information on specific dates or pricing. We can confirm that it is due to be introduced in the second half of 2020, and sales are still predicted to begin in early 2021."
  18. 1 point
    I usually spend all day detailing each car
  19. 1 point
    Thank Timmon, I’m not right foot heavy. But I’m getting use to getting it more in Ev mode
  20. 1 point
    The protrusion is there to stop the piston rotating. Without it the self adjustment may not work properly.
  21. 1 point
    I wasn't being entirely serious 😃 I do find the fuel gauge on the Avensis very pessimistic though.
  22. 1 point
    Check the thread here for instructions to pry off and replace the top ring:
  23. 1 point
    glad you got it sorted
  24. 1 point
    Trim sold. Sony sat nav stereo still available for £100 collected
  25. 1 point
    No excuse. Considering how conservative the fuel gauge and range display is in the Avensis it had probably been beeping and telling him the tank was empty since some time in June!
  26. 1 point
    Are you sure that you don't need a 14mm socket? One of the Amazon reviewers of that linked item has successfully used it on a 2009 Avensis 1.6, so the same engine as yours?
  27. 1 point
    For anyone else looking, they are a Thule rebrand.
  28. 1 point
    Their head must be as empty as their fuel tank.
  29. 1 point
    Based on another thread on this forum, be wary of leaving your car is accessory mode, as this, apparently, will quickly drain the 12 volt battery. Congratulations!
  30. 1 point
    If you're refering to the thread found in the Danish Facebook Group "Toyota Hybrid Forum", I believe his car is a Yaris from 2015. I haven't heard / read about any Auris failing. What is unfortunate is that he wasn't informed by his garage that after the five year warranty period he would need to have future checks done one year TO THE DATE at the latest. I didn't know this myself until last year - my garage told me that during the 5 year warranty period of the hybrid components, Toyota is more forgiving as the check being done a few days or weeks late. Not so when the 5 year warranty has expired. I hope this is true as some of my first checks / services were a week or two overdue.
  31. 1 point
    When I lived there, the A41 was the main trunk road south to B'Ham and beyond, no M56, lorries would thunder along, no 40/50 limit in those days. My mate lived in what was the Post Office/Shop on the junction, think it's called the white house now, traffic was non stop 24 hours a day. Waverton was one of the first villages around Chester that built new homes for the then new Vauxhall factory at E/Port, many happy memories there
  32. 1 point
    Hope you are using a wind back kit like this - When you wind back the pistons, make sure the cut outs are in line horizontally with the caliper or the caliper will need to be forced to fit over the brake pads. The photos are of a Vauxhall Corsa VXR I did last year. It had the same issue as the Avensis where the inner pad wore quickly. piston in the wrong position. piston in the correct position Brake pad wore down at one end! Just like the Avensis, there is a small protrusion on the back of the pad. The protrusion needs to fit within the cut out of the piston. Follow the info and you won't be doing the job again in a long while!
  33. 1 point
    Catlover, I think you get me wrong. I don't sit in my chair at night and think about possible failures or break downs. But it's my car, and I want to know all I can about it. The battery test is like putting the car on a dyno. Let's see what it's got. Hopefully I only gets test reports with high scores, and would be a great documention to pass on to the next owner. Since I only have 10 years warranty in Denmark, not 15 years, a potential buyer to my used car in 5-7 years could ask, if the battery is in good condition. Well, I have no idea, in that case all I have is 15 sheets of paper that says "Passed", but doesn't give any numbers or figures. A danish owner had a fatal failure on his 2013 Auris, that required a full battery exchange. He had missed his annual service by 1 month, and got stuck with the whole bill. Until the last service, the poor owner could have 6-7 sheets that says Passed, and suddently the whole thing dies. Just maybe some error has been in progress over time, and if the report had numbers and measurements, errors could have been detected at a early stage.
  34. 1 point
    Different scenario. Mitsubishi has been in trouble for a number of years and were badly hit by a scandal involving falsifying economy figures in their home market. Nissan bought a controlling interest in them in 2016. Concentrating on their South East markets, where they are stronger, should help rebuild the company. Nissan themselves are suffering from declining demand and heavy discounting (which has backfired for them) in the US market, and, as with Mitsubishi, big falls in profits. Nissan are also retracting in Europe - with plans to close their Spanish plant, etc. Mitsubishi's UK importer, which is a separate company to the manufacturer, has already approached other manufacturers to replace Mitsubishi (certainly at least one Chinese company) regarding distribution of vehicles in the UK. By the way, the Outlander PHEV's multi mode transmission was designed and made by GKN Automotive - a British mulinational.
  35. 1 point
    Excellent Rocks703 that’s great as i like direct replacements (upgrades) the photo would be great thanks
  36. 1 point
    My 2L Excel was the showroom car and it was hooked up to a battery charger. My car was left for 4 weeks during lockdown in my garage after which i moved it on to the drive and left it with ignition on in P. Had no trouble starting engine.
  37. 1 point
    It was much easier when it was called Datsun
  38. 1 point
    From your description of high pedal biting point, the clutch is worn though not slipping yet. To confirm the master cylinder is leaking, you need to get a tissue and torch check the area where the pedal link to the master cylinder. If the leak is really bad, the clutch pedal will need to go to the floor. Also pumping the clutch pedal then brings the biting point back to a normal level. http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/eu/2007/auris-hybrid-ukp/zre151r-dgmnkw/2_166510_038_345W/powertrain-chassis/3103_clutch-master-cylinder/1 The slave cylinder on the 5 speed 1.6 is external on the transmission, so easy to view for leaks, unlike the later 6 speed Valvematic which is internal concentric. http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/eu/2007/auris-hybrid-ukp/zre151r-dgmnkw/2_166510_038_345W/powertrain-chassis/3105_clutch-release-cylinder Again like the master cylinder, a leak from the slave cylinder would mean the pedal biting point will be lower!
  39. 1 point
    Devon Aygo's post from earlier - see below:
  40. 1 point
    I haven't reset the trip computer for a while and it has stayed at 4.0 l/100km, i also recently discovered that every time you shut the car off a little message pops up in the dashboard of the avg fuel consumtion, actually i knew there was a little message when you turned the car off but it kept disappearing after a split second i then realised it was because i kept pressing the brake so the message dissapeared lol. The lowest number i've had was today at 3.3 l/100 km but i usually see 3,5-3,8 but i'm not sure how accurate these numbers are but anyway, finally got my vacation leave this week and as i'm not going anywhere this summer (thanks covid) i've been going to the beach these past 4 days which is about 15 km away from my house and actually this trip is the exact same one i take everyday for work and i maintained speeds between 60-80 km/h. This road is considered a highway but because it's close to the city the speed limit is 70 km/h and it has lots of traffic lights so i get a lots of chances to take my foot off the gas pedal and let the car roll till i reach the red light so i get lots of energy back into the battery. In one instance i checked my battery levels just when i let my foot of the gas pedal and the battery had about 2 bars and when i reached the red light it had 3 bars lower than full and whenever i get going the electric motor pushes me to about 35 km/h then the engine comes in and when i start maintaining my speed the engine shuts off and i'm back to ev mode again. Pretty much this is the sequence that my car takes all the way till i reach my destination, note that this was when we were going back home after 5 hours to the beach and after a big amount of eating at a restaurant so i wasn't as concentrated as i could be as i was feeling extremely tired and dizzy after all of that lol.
  41. 1 point
    Big price gap between the top Aygo and the base Yaris though - £5500 or so.
  42. 1 point
    OK some updates today: 1 Dealer demo available starting July 31st more to follow by end August Pre sales open 1st Aug Full sale & Deliveries 1st Sept
  43. 1 point
    UK will be 100% Hybrid starting with: Icon £19910 otr Design £20970 Dynamic £21920 Excel £22220 Launch Edition £24005
  44. 1 point
    OK some updates today: 1 Dealer demo available starting July 31st more to follow by end August Pre sales open 1st Aug Full sale & Deliveries 1st Sept
  45. 1 point
    Acceleration: have you tried using the various drive modes? I find in ECO mode the CC acceleration is fine (for my taste). As an experiment, you might try setting the car to ECO mode and the CC speed to 70 mph (on a suitable dual carriageway) and maybe when exiting a roundabout and traffic flow is such that it's safe to do so, hit resume. After a few seconds select normal mode then sport. That will demonstrate the different levels of acceleration available - maybe one will be to your taste. Sport mode certainly provokes some urgency when CC is accelerating. Rear Camera: have you tried the icons to switch from 180° view to normal view? It may seem less distorted, Granted the resolution, clarity and brightness of both the infotainment and instrument cluster screens are embarrassingly dismal - one reviewer I read likened it to a 1980s video game screen. Particularly disappointing is the way the bottom half of the instrument screen is almost invisible in brightish light, even when the sun is not directly on it. Computed mpg: I keep such detailed records of my fuel usage that would impress many a train spotter, and can report that the average optimism of the RAV4's display mpg is 'only' about 2% optimistic on average, whereas all previous Toyotas I've logged have been around 5% optimistic.
  46. 1 point
    Connects2 are cheaper and imho better made, Alpine or Pioneer are my go too, avoid the no name Chinese junk No need for a harness as the steering wheel controls adapter does that job, fitting - bolt the brackets (may need to be drilled) to the HU and install or use the double din cage supplied http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/adapters/toyota/auris?SID=17j5tu98g26pq1ee7cifv5a441 Use a plastic trim tool or tape up the end of a screwdriver http://www.fitaudio.com/?View=entry&EntryID=183
  47. 1 point
    Well I got the car back yesterday and I can confirm that I now have Android auto installed on the infotainment system. I still need to have phone plugged in, set to file transfer over USB, but the screen doesn't need to be turned on for it to operate, and holding down the talk button on the steering wheel activates Google assistant. Really happy with the upgrade and someone who uses Google to control home lighting and my garage door, it really does make a difference. Worth every cent! VID20200706132635.mp4
  48. 1 point
  49. 1 point
    Hi, came in here for guidelines whilst my friend was outside trying to figure out how to remove the cupholder to insert the new one. He came back in 5mins saying he's done it with a help of flat screwdriver. As long as you don't need to replace the actual body of the cupholder (mine had the actual part that holds the cup in place broken - the one that fold in when you push the cupholder in), you can replace (or remove) the moving part of it. 1. Insert a flat screwdriver in the gap just on the top of the cupholder, and press it down a bit to release the 2 little hooks thats holding it in and out it comes! 2. Insert the new part carefully aligning the two little wheels (dunno the name of them? i'm foreigner) This will only work if you need to replace the part that's coming in and out, but maybe that's your case? Hope it helped a bit! P.S. Ignore the pic of having the whole cupholder out- it's the new case where I put in the old part i removed, just to show you how to do it.
  50. 0 points
    I have the same thing, replaced the o ring as well as the rocker cover gasket but still the same. I think it's coming from the timing chain cover and as far as I know it's an engine out job to fix, been told it's not worth the hassle on such an old car so just keep an eye on it.



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