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At last we managed a long run today (200mile round trip) so I can start to share my thoughts about our shiny new Blue Demon! First things first, please ignore the mpg in my sig as it is wrong. I made a mistake when entering our first full tank fuel up and because Fuelly caches stuff, the real measured figure of 56.8mpg, probably won't show until tomorrow. Not withstanding my mess up, I am really impressed with even 56.8 for a first neck to neck anyway! The Red Baron (my previous Launch Edition 2020 car) only managed 48.3 at its first so I am well impressed with Blue Demon's efforts and when you consider that everything will be a bit "tight" etc, that's a great result. Also, it wasn't that hot today either barely getting above 11-12 degrees C so that should be borne in mind... So, what do I think of the new car and the way that the new (more powerful) drivetrain works? As an overall impression and please bear in mind that everything I may say is very subjective and just my opinion based on comparing it with my previous car, I would have to say that I am very impressed with the many improvements but also a bit frustrated with some of the annoyances! One of the first things that hit us both as we settled down to a cruise at about 65mph was just how quiet it was inside compared to the Red Baron. When I opened the driver's window ajar (the top kept within the wind deflector depth) it didn't even seem to be as loud then either. In my opinion, they have certainly beefed up the insulation in some way or ways. You can still make the engine "growl" if you want but even that seems to be a bit more muted than before. Most of the journey on the main roads (either dual carriageway or motorway) was completed using adaptive cruise control and this highlighted something straight away. There seems to have been a lot of improvements in the software department in regard to how things operate now. The system as a whole seems to be a lot less aggressive and "rough around the edges". Things like lane centring and speed matching are a lot smoother and more well controlled. Especially good now is the way it takes a curve when, for example, you go from one motorway to another at an intersection which usually involves some long sweeping slip road bends as you traverse from one to the other and some measure of speed reduction is usually required in the process. Guess what? It is now virtually automatic and oh so smooth in execution! First, it measures the bend well and steers it very gently with no jerks at all whilst at the same time gently slowing the vehicle in the process by some 10-15mph as you negotiate the bend and once the road straightens out again and you are on the next motorway, it gently regains the speed you were travelling at before! All in all, a very well managed process. The radar is also so good now it virtually never lost the lane markings or edge of the road once all the way there. Even around town it is so well mannered even at very slow speeds. We tried the built-in Nav for a time and also Android Auto but eventually stayed with the latter as the built-in Nav is so old fashioned in terms of its display (a personal preference I know) and harks back to the days of TomTom displays. I'm afraid Google beats it hands down with a full screen of realistic looking landscapes from satellite shot overlays and is so much more relatable with what you are actually seeing on the road instead of spidery roadmaps with no features on it at all. One nice change I really liked is that the interior rear view mirror can also go straight up and down now as well as the usual ball joint adjustment. This is particularly useful for people like myself with a 6'3" frame and also allows more of the windscreen between the top of the (bigger) head unit and the base of the mirror, to be clear and unobstructed ahead. Also at last they have separated the nav voice and audio stream properly in that you can adjust them separately now from the same control now (which didn't work at all well before). Anyway, I've probably gone on long enough for now so I'll finish this episode here and will offer some more thoughts later...

I have water in my Yaris too ... Evian, Smart and Highland Spring if anyone wants some

I am still plugging in every day and it takes less than a minute to get the ctek5 to show 4 lights. Yesterday I went to the doctors and had to park in a side road about 15 minutes walk from the surgery. I got out of the car and pressed the key......nothing happened so I thought pollocks, the fob battery must be flat. No choice but to walk to my appointment and leave the car unlocked. For the next 45 minutes all I could think of was whether the key fob would start the car. Got back to the car I pressed the fob a few more times with no flashing lights, tentatively got in and.........no wonder it wouldn't lock. It was sitting there in ready mode. At least it had probably charged up the battery but good job it didn't get pinched.

Phone the dealer up and tell them you are going to buy 5 litres of 0W/8 and a filter and bring it back while they change it. Tell them you are going to let Mazda GB know and that you want all your costs back. You are running round with completely the wrong oil in and it needs to come out. The engine relies on 0W for cold weather when it could starve parts of the engine of oil. Ignore daft videos about thin oil, that’s because somebody is ignorant about fluid dynamics. You can’t compress a fluid (within normal reason) and in an engine with very fine tolerances, you need low viscosity oil in cold weather to get it round fast. Get it out and get the correct oil in.

When I picked ours up the pressures were so over inflated it had Goodyear written on the side and had two blokes holding it down with ropes…

Has anyone upgraded there feeble horn on corolla ts, I struggle to scare pigeons out of the way, my old prius was 10 times better

I've stopped to count the times that happened to me 😇. I park, get down from te car, press the keyfob and.... nothing. Open the door and a big READY label explains why !!!!!! 😉

Bring back 20w 50, now that was a REAL man’s oil….

The e in the eCVT is the way the computer works to vary the ratio of the epicyclic geartrain. In other transmissions they would have servos and clutches to lock fixed ratios but in an eCVT they use the speed of MG1 to vary the input or sun gear. It’s very clever and all the competitors would love to mimic it but it’s locked down with patents. So! They can spin that sun gear anywhere from faster than the output (vehicle speed) which gives low ratios to the same speed which gives 1:1 to actually turning it backwards to give overdrive ratios. This is all in an attempt to keep the engine in its most efficient range which is between 1500 to 2000rpm. If you’re on the motorway and you floor it you are loading it in the overdrive ratio and as you correctly surmise, at lower speeds you use lower ratios. You can understand why that damper wants to breakaway because that’s when there’s most load on it. The ultra simple epicyclic geartrain is the star of the show for me. This clever little device is about the diameter of a saucer and the thickness of a pork pie and by locking it to MG2 via an outer cog, it forms the power split device that when working a bit like a diff’ becomes the power split device. It’s absolutely ingenious.

It's because it's so runny it gets up the dipstick tube when you pull the dipstick, but although it's runny, it still clings to the metal surface and gets transferred back onto the upper parts of the dipstick. Incidentally, that's one way to see if oil is still good - Good oil will cling to a surface and stick to it, forming a thin lubricating film, but when it's broken down it will run off that surface much more easily and the film it leaves behind will be much weaker and will rub off more easily instead of leaving a film. He didn't say that, he said 5w30 is better than 10w30 - The essence is that while both are not ideal, 5w30 is 'less wrong' than 10w30. At the end of the day, the oil HAS to be matched with the engine tolerances - You would NOT want to use 0w20 on an old engine where the tolerances are huge as it'd not have enough film strength for the parts and they'd flop about too much. On the other hand, using 10w30 on these modern engines with their tiny tolerances will mean lots of metal-on-metal contact as the oil can't flow properly through the narrow gaps; ESPECIALLY on hybrids where the engine is constantly stopping and starting - That's where the most wear occurs in an engine, in that brief moment where the oil pressure has to be built up.

0w8 or 0w16 and at very bottom 0w20 , these are only oil viscosity types that you can use safely in your hybrid Toyota. Anything else is out of spec. Those 10w30 aren’t even so popular oils used in Europe, these are mostly USA and some Asian regions , perhaps difficult to find easily in shops either. Opieoils have them but they aren’t suitable for your engine. The problem is not only cold starts during cold weather, but any starts of the engine, since it’s a hybrid the engine starts and spins immediately at very high rpm so you need the right oil type and viscosity to have the required lubrication and protection.

Cars usually arrive with transportation tyre pressures (often 40-50 odd psi. Dealer should drop them during the PDI stage but they often don’t.

mk2 pay the extra and get the more up-to-date safety features like side and curtain airbags - It is a lot easier to upgrade things like the radio, all but the basic cars have reverse cameras too, plenty of aygo's about so shop around not an issue on later cars 06-07 cars did have issues, 1kr's don't burn oil unless severely neglected, on the other hand rattling timing chains are common, if you don't do regular oil changes with quality oil

No way would I buy any used car this way without seeing it first and giving it a thorough look over and a test drive 🤷‍♂️

Excellent - That's exactly the correct response from the dealer! Not keeping the car for months waiting for the part... That's why I wish Lindops had franchises down here - They were consistently top-ranking back when this forum had a dealer rating section. I think some of the dealers don't understand what the issue is and think it's unsafe to drive, but it's just a slight slip of the damper plate and I've driven mine for near 2 years after having the fault and it's not only been absolutely fine, it's also not happened again (And if anyone on this forum would be able to make it happen again, it's me )

Just had this "Hybid Malfunction, Visit Dealer" message this Saturday morning. I was less than a mile from Lindops Queensferry, so drove straight there. They read the code (Torque Damper problem) and reset it, ordered the new part under warranty, gave me a coffee whilst I waited and promised to email me when the part come in to book it in. Was in and out of there in maybe half an hour. Car is fine to drive without issues/messages. Happy chappie here. Hats off to Lindops, superb service, can't be faulted. Cheers, Trev.

I would have thought in your case it was hooked up to an Infinite Improbability Drive (Good grief try saying that 3 times fast after a few pints! )

Old Chinese proverb, bitterness poor performance last longer than sweetness of low price.

I used to service Fiats with FIRE engines in them (when I couldn’t possibly avoid working on one) and they had the most ridiculous oil filler hole in the cam cover. It could take what seemed like an hour to get 20/50 through that hole. I’m still not friends with Fiats, I wouldn’t have one given to me if it had a manhole on top.

me, looking doubtfully at these modern technologies, holding a bucket of seep oil in my hand to lubricate the axles in my cart 😄

Fill your jeans up with treacle then try to run a marathon on a cold morning.

Yeah I think it's just most people are averse to revving engines highly - It's why I think diesels were so popular when the government started encouraging people to get them, as the torque band is just right for how most people drive, where you get stacks of torque without having to rev the engine. It only tends to be hooligans like me who like revving out an engine to the limiter for fun I'm trying to picture it with a roof box and so loaded down that its bouncing off the suspension stops!

Just drive like this and don’t worry about it. Steering column knocking on most Toyota cars is very common fault and is not an safety issue or something that can deteriorate with time and mileage. It is becoming of drying lubricant on the telescopic splines for rake adjustment. My car was like that when I bought it many years ago at only 42k miles, didn’t bother to repair and now at 272k it’s still the same , knocking only in certain conditions and not an mot failure or safety any concerns. Save your money,

One of the few criticisms I had of my Yaris and Cross was that you had to plan your overtakes carefully because it quickly ran out of steam. I personally would choose a 130 but I wouldn’t trust it until it’s got a few miles on. I’m quite convinced that they have a programmed lack of power for the first 1000 miles or so.

Louie, had you let it, its next trick you be to throw you through the windscreen if you were not strapped in. Law One – “A robot may not injure a human being or, through inaction, allow a human being to come to harm.” Law Two – “A robot must obey orders given to it by human beings except where such orders would conflict with the First Law.” Which law did it try to observe?

Would love to echo your thoughts, but can't get near the other half's new premiere 🤪 But first impressions from her she really likes the updated Yaris - she was set not to as she couldn't get in black and wasnt keen on the blue (whic I really like). She went for silver metallic bitone. Agreed, quieter, smoother, nice power/torque increase, much improved dash and HUD with now everything she wants displayed. Dark interior, ambient lighting, wireless charging and cloud sat nav all plus points and she kept BSM, JBL, HUD, dipping rear mirror. Seems better put together and no rattles yet and MPG looking healthy (don't have a figure but she's not mentioned it being lower). No negatives to speak of - generally great update and as noted the software seems better all round - she says it genuinely feels like driver assistance now. I will drive it at some point, but from a passenger and pensive partner perspective, I'm very happy too!

Imagine solar panel instead of the pano roof 😉 should be able to charge both HV and 12v batteries 🙂

It's that KISS acronym again ... Keep It Standard Stupid 🙂

A few cars do this...my VW Golf has the same function and it really does make a difference.

Hello, im back with the news 🙂 After a long waiting in quenee to machinc shop and few days of diagnosis, parts replacements - the reason of those humming noises was front right wheel bearing... The previous SPECIALIST mount it too tight, so after 1500km the inside grease was gone, which makes those noises. Everything is fine now with the car 🙂 Thank you all for your support !

I always knew you liked having a good laugh!

I rather fancy a button labelled "nitrous oxide" on the Yaris.

I find you just have to make the judgement call in the moment, as there is no one-size-fits-all safest thing to do most of the time. In Roy's scenario above, I must admit I probably wouldn't have bothered moving over and just bombed past them in lane 1 But on other occasions with seemingly similar setup, I have pulled in behind such drivers well in advance, then done it 'the proper way'. I don't personally think either way is always safer, as although I have had people just pull in front of me in situations like Roy's scenario, I've had it the other way too, where I've signalled and begun moving into lane 3 to overtake and the car I was following just suddenly pulls out in front of me with no warning, so you have to be ready for moronic behaviour no matter what lane and which side you want to move to. The trick is just to always leave/create loads of space everywhere - I'll even drop back a bit to avoid having a car next to me, because my default assumption is all other drivers are gormless morons and it just gives me more reaction space

My car has a "Sport" button. Yes, I did RTFM, and found out what it was intended to do. Never used it, not even to check if it works or even complies with it's description. On further checking, I found out that it is directly connected to the Flux Capacitor which stores all that potential energy ready for instant release when activated.

Completed some cosmetic stuff today, courtesy of AliExpress (lol!) Piano black caps for all the doors to complete the look started(!) by Toyota! (cheapskates that they are!) (just noticed that I took that photo before I'd wiped it off properly!) Plus a full set of appropriately blue piped non-slip mats for all the various orifices that could generate rattling noises if objects are left in them! ...and yes, I know I've covered the wireless charger with a mat but since I was able to re-install my phone bracket to almost the same place as in the Red Baron, it will only get used rarely anyway... The mats work really well especially the one in front of the passenger seat where SWMBO tends to dump her house keys! 🤣

The products are still good but the service from dealers has deteriorated over the last 10 years. To the point where I avoid them. Even the once untouchable Lexus is no longer at the top. That saddens me. I've been pleasantly surprised by the local BMW dealer who has been excellent. Yes, I had lower expectations but they were thoroughly surpassed. EDIT: Just want add that this is only based on my personal experience with our local dealerships. I am sure there are plenty of Toyota/Lexus franchises, and individuals, that do a cracking job. We salute you. Parts shortages are of course not an isolated Toyota issue.

Just wanted to let you know that I contacted my insurer (Tesco) to ask if fitting wind deflectors was classed as a modification that needed declaring. After some deliberation they said that they are modifications and the underwriters would need to be informed, but probably wouldn't charge extra. I know it's nonsensical and makes no difference to the car but be aware that your insurer could look to void your policy if you haven't declared them, which would be a lifetime's worth of pain going forward. It's worth just checking and getting them to note it on the policy Don't shoot the messenger 😲

I am actually really surprised by this comment, I have had 4 Aygos with my highest miler one doing 35k a year for 3 years solid. I cruised and commuted in that car every day, and when I wanted the power I would absolutely nail it and let that 3 cylider scream up the revs, and it soon got going. Some may think that was abusing it, but they actually rev much higher than people think before getting anywhere near the red.. it’s a lot about momentum. I took that aygo from 1800 miles up to ~105k and it didn’t miss a beat and was always main dealer serviced on time.. commuted all over the uk and Europe. Agreed they are not fast.. but they are more than upto the job and will take it well. people are just now used to having lots of ample spare unused power making the feeling of cruising and overtaking less strenuous.

I’m thinking it’s a positive defeat device to protect the engine during the running in period.

I'd guess some insurers view DIY installation as a fire risk. And TBH many probably are. Insurers have to deal with the 90%* of the population who are incompetents that think the cost of their premiums over time is some sort of savings scheme that they are entitled to get back. * Probably 80% actually. I think 10% don't even have insurance.

Can't pick it up (so no idea where they are) and 5 days for them to disappear ... I'd run. (But to be fair, these days I won't even consider a private sale - too many scammers in the game and I can afford to pay a bit more for peace of mind. Your risk aversion may vary.)

it depends on how much milage you intends to put on the car. For myself, as I'm a delivery driver (driving 20K annually), I would go for the low mileage to get more life out of the engine. But if I was doing normal driving (3 - 6K annually), the 80K should be fine. As for comfort goes, definitely MK2 on the steering wheel control and much better audio system.

Certainly agree Richard the tyre/road noise is a bit horrendous in the RAV HEV. It's probably the one thing that will make me change to something else, unless a set of better tyres would help. The original Toyo tyres have done about 16,500mls so will need to wait a wee bit longer to change.

PHEV every time - it's simply a better car ... Rumour has it that it is better insulated so quieter, but equally it will run more often in EV mode and our engine does make a bit of a racket! But, you can't have a PHEV Excel so you may lose some toys you currently enjoy. And the towing capacity of the HEV beats that of the PHEV should that be of any concern for you.

Oh the CX, a light press resulted in the “town” horn, louder than almost everything else. BUT a full press, the “county” horn was unbeatable. I once did it as a mate walked in front of my car as I was queueing in traffic, he jumped in the air and fell onto the boot of the car in front. I didn’t laugh!😂

Yeah, or maybe an Asian thing. They tend to use the horn as a means of moving forward. I think in Europe we want to make sure it's clear we're serious when we use the horn. I loved the Citroën CX, it came with both a trumpet horn and dual FIAMM compressor horns... as standard! Seriously "horny" car. 🚘 😏

I used the power button once when chased by a police patrol car, I was asked why I didn’t stop straight away and explained that my ex wife ran off with a police patrol officer….and I thought he was bringing her back…

Colonel bogey air horns at least I'd say. Or one of those really deep throated ones that they fit to ambulances for when people cannot hear normal sirens,or see bright blue lights behind them. Sound a bit like the fog horn on the the QE 2.

I think it's a japanese thing - It's a very polite horn, especially compared to the angry german ones!! PartsKing had one he was suggesting, but if he offers it, politely decline unless you don't like having ear drums

I don't know what it is about Japanese cars but they all (except Lexus) come with pathetic moped horns. You can get Hella replacement "trumpet" horns with a Toyota plug on it. Draws about the same current as the original but sounds like a horn should.