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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/09/2019 in Posts

  1. 8 points
    Protection against thieves? Well, it used to be called the law but then all sorts of protectional clap trap was introduced by do-gooders and found more easy to enforce than actually stopping the people from taking what doesn't belong to them. Now, you aren't allowed to give the individual who is helping themselves to your property a good pasting. Apparently, one of the most effective deterrents is prayer and the fear of being smited for ones sins by the almighty or in the case of prius catalytic converters, hope that God is looking and lets the jack slip.
  2. 4 points
    There were a few reports in the press a while ago that leasing companies had cars returned at the end of their lease (typically 3 years for company cars) where the charging cable was still in a sealed wrapper. The Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV was mentioned a few times, as it sold like hot cakes and probably still will to some extent as I suspect the primary appeal to business drivers is the Benefit In Kind tax rate more than the purchase subsidy, although the subsidy may well have brought the car into a price range that allowed more company car drivers to choose one. Whilst not conclusive, as some may have charged on a home unit that came wit ha cable and/or charging station that had a cable, my observation from my days of company car use is that many don't even dip the oil during their tenure, so plugging is by no means likely in all cases, especially where the fuel is paid for by the employer.
  3. 4 points
    I think a little of the extra advantage plug-in Prius seem to have over the ordinaire variety is that when you charge the battery it also fills the bit of the HV range that would be almost always empty in the standard car. When I switch mine off at the end of the day, I may have anything from 2 to 7 bars on the HV battery gauge, dependent on whether I approached on the dual carriageway from the south, in which case I'll have been braking from 60 mph down a gentle incline to the last roundabout before entering my village (7 bars) or come in on the coast road at 20-40 mph largely in EV (car's choice) (probably ending up on 2-4 bars). The plugin is like me being able to charge the missing bit somehow and that will explain a small part of the plugin's advantage. A former member of this group (who's now bought a EV and disappeared) previously had a first gen plugin, and he suggested another part of the advantage was the fact plugins used Lithium Ion technology instead of the Prius ordinaire's NiMH, and he believed the former's charge/discharge efficiency was greater.
  4. 4 points
    I would be disinclined to trust your YouTube sources, on the basis that if they're driving at 82mph and trying to be economical (either financially or in terms of fuel), then they're doing it wrong! There's a lot of inefficiency in Charge mode - you're using an inefficient source (the ICE) to put power into the battery with associated transfer losses, then you're getting that power back out of the battery with further associated losses. Whilst not all the power harvesting will be inefficient (the hybrid system is fiendishly clever in siphoning off power that isn't 'needed') the car is set up to do that all the time anyway even when not in Charge mode. In the circumstances you describe, I would suggest that it would be more efficient to charge the car at home and just switch to HV mode during the journey once the EV range drops to approximately the amount of 'town driving' you're going to do at the end of your journey. That will keep enough in the battery to use EV mode in town, without wasting fuel in Charge mode. This is basically what Geoff is describing above, using HV as the default. That only makes sense on long journeys though - don't switch to HV mode and then find you get back home to your charger with EV range to spare! The only time I could see Charge mode having any real value is if you can't charge the car from a socket before setting off. It could then be used on a long run to build up charge for EV driving later on. Even then, the transfer losses mean that I'm not convinced it would work out more to be more efficient overall, but it would give the advantage of reducing local noise and pollution in the built-up area. Personally I'd just stick with HV mode which gives pretty phenomenal returns even on an empty battery. It is at least as good as the Gen4 ordinaire despite the extra weight being lugged around, possibly because it can store more regen charge in the larger battery. Set the cruise to 65mph on the motorway, leave the outside lane to the German dieselburgers, relax and enjoy an easy 70+mpg. Away from the motorway, I'v found mid-90s mpg to be achievable on a warm day when starting with zero EV range, although perhaps not in Yorkshire as you have proper hills up there!
  5. 4 points
    It's not the gas that's different but the compressor oil that goes round with the gas. The compressor windings are saturated in the oil so it has to be correct ir burnout will happen.
  6. 4 points
  7. 4 points
    Thank you for your observations. Most of what you said was with reference to electric only vehicles. All you said I took into consideration but still decided to ditch my Qashqai and bought my first hybrid - a Auris hybrid. Loved it so much I now have a Prius (all Prius are hybrid or plug-in hybrid). The battery now has a Toyota 15 year warranty so long as you have a battery health check every year - free if you have the car Toyota serviced. Even if a cell went down, they are individual cells and can be replaced individually for not a lot of money. Prius has been on the uk market now for 20 years and not a lot go wrong with them, other then what all cars have to deal with ie tyres, suspension, brakes etc. The engineering of the hybrid system as bullet proof as can be. I just done 27.9 miles today in four separate journeys and clocked 81.1 mpg, done in a very comfy car that I think WILL not depreciate as much as you may think. And there is more to like a hybrid then just good mpg. I pretty pleased on the switch and would not now like to go back. Hydrogen may rule the car sales in 30 years, but we living now, and I certainly wont see 30 years time or if I do I will not be capable of driving. So happy with what i got.
  8. 4 points
    I don't really see the point in Toyota going to great lengths to produce a vehicle which is as economic and feasible as possible, to be bought by people who want to take off some of the tweaks. When one sits in the car travelling from A to B, using the worlds dwindling resources as sparingly as possible, is it really necessary for us to be able to imagine what our car looks like from the outside? I am basically a skinflint and I really don't want to spend my time and money on making the outside of my car more acceptable for others to look at. I see blingy wheels as something which makes the car less economical which contradicts my original aim of driving a vehicle which is more economical. I have never admired the prius as a thing of beauty, its appearance is more like a pimple on the road surface. What I do admire is the uncompromising excellence of engineering and the fact that a company is willing to manufacture a vehicle which looks less appealing in order not to sacrifice aerodynamic gains and savings. Having said all that, to each their own.I have seen hybrid cars with empty roof racks, I park near to one on most days of the week. I see them with low, unchecked tyre pressures, I see them with the more expensive low profile wide and high drag tyres.
  9. 3 points
    Ever since I have owned a car, I have done my own oil service. This is the first time I have done an oil change with my current car. It was last done July 2015 before I owned the car. I did some research and bought the oil filter removal tool - The other problem was getting the correct oil (0w-20) which is quite expensive. I bought my oil from Euro car parts at £30 plus the oil filter. My earlier post below mentions the "wrong" grade by some of the major sellers. My drive is raised about 1.5ft above the ground level of my house, so I can access the under side without using ramps or jacks and stands. The under tray hatch is secured by three push fasteners - same as on the engine covering. Just push the centre of the fastener in, then pull the the outer to remove. Very easy. Old filter and gasket. Oil filter housing with new gasket plus the new oil. Sump plug before draining. Location of the oil filter under the car. Note the additional new fibre washer on the sump plug. The new filter also came with a smaller plastic attachment and seal for a different type of fitting. These were not needed. When everything was replaced, tightened and checked again, I reset the fasteners by pushing the centres out, then placing them with position after closing the under tray hatch. Press the centres home to secure the fasteners. Then refill the engine with the new oil. The key point is, Toyota saw fit to add the hatch to the under tray, instead of having to remove the whole lot, like other cars. That is a major time saving point! The only thing I may need to do in the future is the auxiliary belt. When I last checked it, the belt was fine. Probably get a spare.
  10. 3 points
    Experiment complete. Came home, all eight bars green, and came up the drive in reverse. By the time I was at the top, only six bars green. Neutral and coasted back to the gate. Neutral doesn't charge the battery, so at the gate, I selected reverse again and drove hard back up. Four bars green, and then repeated, then two bars green. Next time up, the engine revved high and at the top, I still had two bars green. Repeated another four times, and each time the engine revved and it stayed at two bars green. After the next one, I was a bit bored so didn't do any more, but it seems that two bars green was the minimum. The car wasn't as eager on the latter runs than on the first few, but it still did well. There you have it. Probably no limit to how far you can reverse. Mick.
  11. 3 points
    I like the white bits looks good to me.
  12. 3 points
    Interesting. The acid test would be to repeat the journey in normal mode. If your 4 plug in charges give you about 130 miles, the remaining 90 miles might use less than 5.8 litres in normal mode, but you'll have to try it and see. My post above didn't intend to detract from the fun of playing with the car's toys- I went through that phase when mine was new, but I drive in lots of traffic and don't have a regular commute to get bored with. I just wanted to say that there's a different kind of driving pleasure in keeping everything simple and relaxed, and the fuel consumption when doing so will be a pleasant surprise.
  13. 3 points
    I happen to live nearby, and like to fly drones; so here are some fresh pictures. Cars are unloading as we speak.. Hopefully ours are here somewhere 🙂
  14. 3 points
    After nine years it isn't unreasonable to need a regas. Five years would be considered pretty good on most cars. My wife's VW only managed two years on its first charge! (Although, to be fair, VW did recharge it under warranty ,and it was still good five years later when we sold it.) The issue, as I understand it, is that the refrigerant gas molecules are small enough to slip through the tiny microscopic pores in every flexible joint, no matter how tightly you seal it. So, over the years, a fair number of them are bound to get away. Nothing particularly suspicious about it.
  15. 3 points
    They are not 100% sealed and, in spite of what some might tell you, do lose some gas over time. The biggest culprit is the compressor's shaft seal. That's why it is recommended to run the system over the colder months. Even around 10 minutes a week is sufficient. I had mine "regassed" last year, local garage, and over the four years it had lost about 30g of refrigerant. Capacity and type of gas should be on a plate under the bonnet. UV dye added to the system, a Sniffer" and/or pulling and holding a vacuum will determine whether there are any potential leaks. All done using a dedicated machine which extracts the old gas and oil and adds the correct amount of gas and oil. My system is essentially tight in spite of the small loss.
  16. 3 points
    I always use my mechanical key to open it. There's an indentation in the plastic which is the same dimension, so you don't mess up the plastic.
  17. 3 points
  18. 3 points
    My main reason for owning my first Prius was not the economy, I just love the looks, the technology of the drivetrain, reliability and the way it drives. I have never driven such a relaxing car as the Prius and I have had many so called premium brands in the past. The economy is obviously a bonus, its as simple as that for me.
  19. 3 points
    The incentives for electric cars remain - albeit reduced. Then again one has to question whether vehicle manufacturers adopted high prices for electric cars to take advantage of the subsidy.
  20. 3 points
    My previous Avensis Executive 2.0. A sudden Lexus infection made me sell it for a RX300 which was a bad decision.
  21. 3 points
    IF the cat is the problem, you could leave your Prius parked in one of those areas where the tealeafs jack the car up and cut out the cat. (they dont know its faulty) and you could claim for a new one on insurance. Just expressing my thoughts in type. 🤔
  22. 3 points
    The so-called eCVT transmission in Toyota Hybrids is generally regarded as bullet proof and nothing like the CVT system in most other cars (including most Honda Hybrids) that have it. The Toyota system (sometimes called a planetary transmission) is fairly uncomplicated with a single central cog (Sun Gear), 3-5 (Planet) cogs around it in a carrier with a ring on the outside with its teeth innermost and meshing to the planet cogs. One is connected to the main electric motor, one to the petrol engine, the other to the wheels. Nothing slips, engages or disengages, swaps cogs etc. There's no clutch or torque converter, it's so simple it's beautiful. If one of the three pieces changes speed, one or both the others must change to compensate - for example: car is stationary, engine starts to charge the battery, the main Motor/Generator (MG) must spin the other way. car starts to reverse (engine not running), MG turns the other way. using cruise control at 60 mph, come to a steep upwards hill: engine revs increase (car stays at 60), MG must reduce rpm proportionally (or even spin the other way). hard acceleration, car speed increases, engine revs stay constant - MG slows (possibly reverses direction) proportionately to car's speed increase. Some nifty graphics are in this page: http://prius.ecrostech.com/original/PriusFrames.htm Conventional CVT gearboxes contain a system of cones with a flexible steel belt and as the cones move closer and further apart the band is squeezed and changes ratio continuously, but this systems needs a clutch or torque converter to handle being stationary with the engine running while in gear. There is a simple diagram in this explanation: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Continuously_variable_transmission I've driven a number of cars with 'conventional' CVTs, including Mk2 Nissan Micra auto, Honda Jazz CVT, Honda Civic Hybrid and Honda Insight Hybrid and they behave uncannily like each other and the technically different Toyota eCVT in response to accelerator operation.
  23. 3 points
    Have had this car for over 10 years. It's comfortable, reliable and well made. Occasionally it needs some TLC.
  24. 3 points
    2008 yAris and just usual maintenance expenses.. over 350000 and running well..
  25. 3 points
    probably just as well. The 2 manuals for my Prius come to just over 1,000 pages. If there was a printed copy in the car it would probably knock another 1-2 mpg off!
  26. 3 points
    Like some others on this forum, I am not entirely convinced that Toyota is so far behind everyone with EV tech. Their hybrid program has included nearly all if not all technologies require to build a totally electrical car. They have one of the most slippery bodyshells on the current prius and this includes quite wide tyres and a radiator grille-( both items known to cause drag). They have electrical motors able to power the car along, they have kinetic battery recharging technology, electrical power control technology, charging technology and battery technology and mass production experience. Putting a Toyota next to any one of its EV competitors highlights their competitors weakness. Nissan , for example are only successful with small cars with big batteries. Tesla have cracked the range, power and battery issue but the cost of the tech is astronomical.Renault have fallen rather short of the mark made by Nissan but have also gone along the route of putting big batteries into a small car. Nearly everyone else is trying to use their petrol engined chassis as a lack lustre EV or hybrid. Only BMW have really had a good go at things but their very space efficient I3 is a bit of a draggy little lump at cd 0.29. My impression is that for the time being , Toyota are keeping their powder dry whilst battery and motor technology slowly improves to the point where producing a vehicle which will carry 4 persons and their baggage 300miles between fuel ups ( charges ) is commonplace and affordable.
  27. 2 points
    Our first run in the Prius has been completed and with judicious charging and using the charge mode we completed a 220 mile journey with 5.8 litres of petrol (full to full). That is well over 150 mpg plus 3 full paid charges (about £3) and one free top up in the Flemingate shopping centre. About 75% was EV so we travelled about 55 miles on charge mode. This is about 45mpg. The charge mode seems to generate 1EV mile for every mile travelled so we recovered about 50 EV miles on the journey, so I assume that would be the same as 90mpg in normal HV mode. Whichever way you look at it the Prius PHV is amazing at 4p per mile. None of this was at the cost of slow driving - mainly A roads at speed limits. More results in the future. Tony B
  28. 2 points
    As regards not plugging cars in. Many people live without garages. Also, people with garages rarely use them and so plugging in isnt something which many be easily achieved unless one has wires trailing around. I have lived in various locations since the advent of the 1970s and since that time it has become more popular to use garages as a dumping ground for expensive refuse which the homeowners don't want to admit to wasting money on. During this time I have routinely kept my vehicle in a garage. Nevertheless, I don't have a special socket rated at 16 amp in my garage, I have a conventional 13 amp socket. To fit a special power socket , I would have to renew my distribution board to incorporate more circuit breakers which would allow an electrician to fit a dedicated socket with suitable circuit protection. Aha! but it doesn't stop there! Since the electrician has effectively reconnected every single circuit in my house, it all needs to be certified and tested to the latest edition of the wiring regulations! In order to do this, the entire house needs to have its electrical circuits modified to enable them to pass the latest tests and checks. In short, the majority of peple dont open the can of worms and don't have their special electrical socket circuit added since if a house has a wiring system which only complies with the regulations which were prevailing at the time of installation, this is perfectly acceptable. In other words, the system shot itself in the foot when insisting that modifications must be to current regulations and to to the original specifications. All of the above is a very expensive and dicouraging argument unless one lives in a new build. Before we introduce rules, regulations etc, I think that we should pause to look at the bigger picture. I live in a house which has 14th edition electrical installation because of when it was built. In order for me to upgrade my electrical circuits in my garage to install a special "hybrid" charging socket, one has to ask. "What is more important?" trying to do my bit for saving the planet or fooling around wasting money on fiddling around with refitting the entire house wiring so that it complies with the current 18th edition wiring regulation. Our country seems to have fallen victim to insular thinking. The electricians insist we upgrade to the latest edition instead of simply complying with the original design spec of wiring and the "save the planet lobby" think that we should be installing special charging sockets in as many places as possible. My own view is "stuff the regulations since, they wont matter a jot if we don't save the planet" Withdrawing government sponsorship of hybrid fossil fuel/electric cars is perhaps overdue since we need to move beyond burning petrol and diesel. Maybe that money should go towards tidal powered electrical generation by throwing a dam across the Bristol channel. Free energy 4 times a day regardless of the weather. Then , 100% electrical transport makes a tremendous amount of sense and some form of sponsorship for 100% electric vehicles should prevail in order to encourage development of aerodynamics, fuel cells, superconductors, superior navigation and control systems etc.In this case the need to install electrical outlets increases and so the pressure on adopting a more integrated approach to modifying our power distribution infrastructure from power station to home, factory and office increases.
  29. 2 points
    Both sides, rear of the roof gutter where the seam weld is that is Visable when the boot is open. I used sikaflex 512 sealant.. wasn't cheap at £14 a tube but it's worked a treat.. no pics I'm afraid but I'll look at tryin to get one took next few days..
  30. 2 points
    Sorry for the lack of updates, sealing those 2 hair line cracks in the roof gutter has cured it. The water was getting past and goin down between the 2 body panels and coming out where the light cluster sits, hence me thinking it was the seals.
  31. 2 points
    My new (to me) Avensis Icon D-4d 2014 in Grey
  32. 2 points
    Over the last few years I have tried changing the tyres and wheels on several cars - as the tyres get narrower the steering becomes a little easier to turn. For example, a 195/65 x 15 is an easier steer than the exact the same car on a 205/55 x 16. Are the cars you are comparing fitted with the same tyre sizes?
  33. 2 points
    You'll tend to find as it gets closer to full, the car will try increasingly harder to use up electric power to try to ensure there's always room for 'free' regenerated energy. Conversely, it tries increasingly harder to top up the battery the lower it gets (from two bars - I've almost never seen just one bar) so there's power available when you need an extra boost from the Motor/Generators. You'll notice more revs for a given accelerator pressure when the battery is low, especially if accelerating up an incline (even quite a gentle one).
  34. 2 points
    I ordered my 2019 RAV4 AWD in February and quoted May/June. Last week Toyota customer services said it was on a Vehicle Carrier ship heading for the UK with the port arrival as 23rd/24th May. The RAV4 I believe is manufactured in Nagoya in Japan, so looking at the shipping tracking sites there is a vehicle transport ship coming from Nagoya to Avonmouth, which is where Toyotas land in the UK, via Barcelona. The ship is the Altair Leader and is currently passing southern Spain heading to the Staights of Gibraltar. https://www.marinetraffic.com/en/ais/home/centerx:-5.9/centery:36.4/zoom:9 Enter Altair Leader in the search box Or http://alltrack.org/9539171-432817000-vessel-altair-leader-tracking Once it arrives at the the UK port the cars go to the Toyota area and have any packages fitted that are installed at the port such as the Protection Pack, then transported to the dealers, by road I assume.
  35. 2 points
    The Gen 4 Prius (including, I think, the 2nd Gen Plug-in which is based on the Gen 4) don't need this as there is some sort of automatic block that only opens when the engine needs cooling. Can't say I've seen it though, but I haven't really looked - I was happy enough with about 100 extra miles per tankful over the Gen 3, even though the Gen 4 tank is 2 litres smaller. According to the blurb when the car was launched, this helps with aerodynamics as well as warm-up times.
  36. 2 points
    Get some baking soda, and pour around the wet parts to neutralize the acid. Check the battery caps and close them. I would not drive the car if i was you since the high voltage is popping the plastic caps. If you are lucky, you might find some local place with a spare part, or at a wreckers, and can replace it over the weekend. It's possible the high voltage is triggering the ABS errors as mentioned on 1st page. I wonder what caused this, and the only thing that comes to mind if they reversed the polarity of the battery installing, tried to start to move the car, nothing happened, and then switched it around, but damage to alternator diode was already done.
  37. 2 points
    Wow! I certainly did not expect that response. I thought I would be the odd one (wife has always said I am odd one 😄). I feel quiet normal now.😎
  38. 2 points
    Does the car break function correctly? I guess you just lost the ABS option, so in case of hard breaking, the wheels will lock. According to what you say, the car can be driven just fine, you just dont have the ABS to prevent wheels from locking in case of some hard braking.
  39. 2 points
    All modern cars (for sale within Europe at least) are built of thinner steel etc. than they were 40 years ago. They are also stronger/safer due to improved engineering, materials & systems. However, they also are a lot more complicated in terms of engine & electronics & these days it is these complications that tend to fail before basic structures. They are not designed to last for 20+ years (HonestJohn claims that they are designed for a 7/8 year life - the manufacturers after all want to sell you a new one at some point). In 3 Avensis I, so far (touch wood), have only had to seek recourse to warranty twice - once on my T25 with a weeping waterpump as it came to the end of it's warranty & my last Avensis with the door cracking issue on the driver's door - both were dealt with easily, promptly at no cost to me so I must disagree with the assertion that Toyota's customer service/warranty is worthless.
  40. 2 points
    The OP hasn't been clear on which of the three vehicles in their profile the issues relate to, nor have they been clear over what period of time the issues occurred. The youngest of their cars is now 7 years old (Yaris - where the new car warranty ended in 2017) and the other two, 11 and 18 years old (Avensis). As they posted in the Avensis club, are the issues relating to one or both of their Avensis - who knows? Presumably the warranty complaint is regarding the new car warranty - or is it an extended warranty? Again the OP hasn't said. If the OP is expecting Toyota to respond via these forums, they will be disappointed, as we have no association with Toyota. We've owned six Toyotas from new, and the issues we've had over our periods of ownership are as follows: 1996 Corolla 1.3 - none 1998 Corolla 1.3 - none 2006 Corolla 1.4 - tailgate struts replaced under warranty 2009 Auris 1.33 - passenger side cup holder replaced under warranty 2012 Auris 1.33 - tailgate struts replaced under warranty 2016 Aygo - oxygen sensor replaced under warranty. The warranty repairs (the oldest of which was in 2009) were all completed quickly and without quibble by two Toyota dealers.Three of the cars were British built, and the current one, Czech built.
  41. 2 points
    Swaped antennas betwen my Prius+2017 and Auris TS HSD 2014, which worked well so... I bought an aftermarket antenna which is less than half the length of the orginal Prius+ one, and it works well. Easy to swap to. There was Shark Fins to but they seems to need a lot more "surgery" Now our Prius+ goes clear under the garage enter top Shark Fin
  42. 2 points
    It's a Kenwood DMX7018DABS, works with Android auto/apple car play, Bluetooth, DAB, etc etc. If you get the right adapter wiring, works with steering wheel controls too!
  43. 2 points
    I take it you meant 155 not 115 ? Confused me that lol.
  44. 2 points
    I fitted an underseat sub and bought some sticky velcro/hook&loop tape, used the 'hook' part only stuck to sub underside thus using original carpet under driver seat as the 'loop' part. I did it as I didn't want to drill any fixing holes for sub under the seat. Did this few years ago and it hasn't moved at all.
  45. 2 points
    Thanks to inspiration from Craig here, this is my version for my wife who hated the limitation of the stock basic cd player and radio and wanted more features including DAB radio. I decided to go the 3d-printed route rather than use too much filler, so after cutting out an aperture, I designed a suitable cradle to receive a stock DIN radio but with a flange on the right side to accommodate usb lead that fitted into the rear of the Pioneer radio I got cheap from Halfords. My wife's fascia is metallic, glittery black and I managed to find a can of spray paint from Halfords that was pretty close, but as you can see I'll need to sand back and respray the entire fascia the same colour at some stage. I will take more photos of exactly what I did from the rear when I do that, but in the meantime I have attached my 3D-print design and the (almost) final result, which has worked well for three months so far. Note - I printed from PETG plastic as PLA would melt in summer
  46. 2 points
    As above...if your system is sound and the job is done right then you should not need a re-gas every year.
  47. 2 points
    My ol' Avensis parked beside a similar model. You can see the difference in ride height highlighted nicely.
  48. 2 points
    Exactly what I fitted last year, and the previous one was a Bosch, but they say Varta make the batteries for Bosch and this time the Varta were cheaper.
  49. 2 points
    All cars are already fitted with a speed limiting device, it's the drivers right foot! Too much is being taken away from the driver, we'ii soon have cars that drive themselves......oh
  50. 2 points

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