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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/18/2020 in Tutorials

  1. 1 point
    Difficulty - Medium Time - The are 2 stages, one to adjust the brakes themselves and the other to adjust the cable. Cable 10 minutes Including brakes 1 hour. Tools - Jack and wheel brace, flat blade screwdriver, phillips No2 screwdriver, 10mm socket and suitable driver. Trim tool if available. 2 X 10mm spanners. Introduction The handbrake on all 4.2 RAVs is of the "drum in hat/exclusive" type. This consists of a small diameter drum brake which is positioned in the boss of the rear brake disc. Although a handbrake could be incorporated into the disc brake, these are becoming less popular because they rely entirely upon clamping force which requires high actuation force and are exposed to contamination if the vehicle should be used off road. Although the parking brake is efficient, it should be remembered that it is solely a static brake and should never be used dynamically because it is at a huge mecanical disadvantage - a tiny brake inside a large wheel. Even applying it just as the wheels are coming to a stand will eventually cause excessive wear of the components. As it is a static brake the linings should last indefinitely and the brake requires little maintenance. Once adjusted after the linings have bedded to the drum it should normally not be required again for the life of the vehicle. Occasionally the drum brakes may become inefficient due to lack of use, a build up of contaminants or incorrect use. If the linings have become wet (when the vehicle is waded to the depth of 300 - 500mm) the brake will be submerged and can be dried by applying the handbrake with a force of 10kgs for a distance not exceeding 400m at 30mph. If the linings have been replaced they can be bedded by using the same procedure but repeating the process after a cooling period of 1 minute a number of times as required. In this case the brake should be re-adjusted when completed. Once the brakes have been adjusted for the first time, any subsequent adjustment required is likely to be as a result of cable stretch. If you have no reason to suspect the brakes need further adjustment (you haven't renewed the linings etc) then it is acceptable to adjust the cable only. The cost for having the handbrake adjusted can vary. I have heard reports ranging from £25 - £65 which I presume depends on whether the foundation drum brakes have been adjusted or only the cable. Procedure To adjust the foundation parking brake shoes; Working on level ground safely chock the front wheels and release the hand brake. Observing all the usual precautions, jack up and remove one rear wheel. Ideally the vehicle should be jacked and supported on axle stands but if the supplied vehicle jack is used under no circumstances place any part of your body under the vehicle. As the disc is not fixed to the hub it is necessary to secure it by taking two of the wheel nuts and running them up to the disc. The hand brake adjuster is accessible through a rubber bung in the disc. Using a screwdriver, prize out the bung and rotate the disc (it will be stiff as you have to turn the transmission) until the toothed adjuster is visible - it will be somewhere near the bottom ; Use the screwdriver to engage the teeth of the adjuster; To adjust the brake you need to turn the adjuster as shown to expand the shoes; Turn the adjuster until it is no longer possible to move the disc then turn it backwards until the disc is just free. It is OK to hear it rubbing but it should not be tight. Turn the disc a full revolution to make sure there are no tight spots. When complete refit the rubber bung and the roadwheel. Go around and repeat the process at the other wheel but when finished do not lower the wheel to the ground. To adjust the hand brake cable; Go inside the car and use a trim tool or screwdriver to prize the back of the gear stick gaiter upward; The front of the gaiter is hooked under the lower facia so just pull it back to disengage and lift it up over the gearstick but do not try to remove it. Use the phillips screwdriver to remove the 2 screws from the front of the centre console; Fold down the back of the console and remove the cup holders to reveal the 2 fixing bolts. Use a 10mm socket and extension to remove the bolts then lift off the console. Note - it will be necessary to reach under and unplug the wire from the cigar lighter. Now with the console removed the handbrake and cable is very easy to see; Use the 2 X 10mm spanners to unlock the adjusting nut. Hold the bottom nut still and undo the top nut anti clockwise. This photo is from a 4.3 but it is the same; Now turn the bottom nut clockwise to tension the cable. The specification calls for 7 - 9 clicks with a pulling force of 20kgs (44 lbs) - thats a heavy pull! The main thing is not to over adjust it so you should still feel some free play at the bottom of the lever travel. Keep adjusting and testing little by little. If you start at the bottom and pull, you should not feel any resistance until about the third click. As a check go back to the jacked up wheel and check that it turns freely. Replace all of the trim in the reverse order remembering to re-connect that cigar lighter. Lower the remaining wheel and don't forget to finally tighten the road wheel nuts to the specified torque of 76 ft/lbs. As a final check take the vehicle to an incline where it would normally just roll and check to see that it does so in both directions. For those that might prefer the handbrake to be on with just one click don't forget that if it binds it will get hot and cause a lot of damage so whatever happens make sure you do these checks to make sure it is free.
  2. 1 point
    Ive just realised ive never posted this up on this forum so here it is; I decided that I wanted to convert my tail lamps on my compressor to give the JDM look, after seeing Noedel's conversion on the TOC a year so ago. I loved the look it gave to the rear end of the car at night and it looked relatively simple to do. What I didn't like about Noedel's conversion was the fact you had to disable the rear fog light and every year you would have to return the lights back to standard to pass a MOT. As I've messed with car lighting wiring looms of practically every car I've owned, I quickly hatched a plan of "how to do it" in my head. This method allows you to have; 4 sidelights 4 brake lights 2 fog lights displayed in the inner oem fog light area. There will be no unwanted fog light symbol coming up on the dash everytime you brake, nor will all the lights light up when you turn the rear fog on. This way makes all the lights work as it should and it will have no problems going through an MOT like this :) Heres a video of the lights working to give you a idea on how it will look ;) Right first up, parts that you will require; - 2 380 Brake light bulbs - 4 5amp diodes - Some very small screws + screwdriver - 1.5mm/8mm drill bit + drill - Soldering iron and solder - A wiring connector from a scrapped Toyota (If you'd like two rear fog lights) - Rotary tool with attachments - 3m of 1.0mm 16A car wiring loom grade wire - A selection of heat shrink in various sizes - Some sharp side snips - 4 very small electrical o ring connectors I shall start with the drivers tail lamp. First; - Remove the carpet cover in the boot - Remove the white wiring connector on the top nut, it just pulls off - Remove the 3x 10mm nuts - Pull the tail light off the car and remove the connector by pushing in the tab. - Remove the inner light panel from the light assembly by pushing the two black tabs revealing this: The left bulb here is missing - this is the fog light one to be modified. In the fog light slot there is a metal tab which connects to the bottom of the bulb. As we will be using a 2 point bulb we need to remove this. So I used a pair of side snips to cut the tab at the top Using a flat head screw driver lift the tap up to allow the whole piece to simply lift out of the bulb slot. Then push the tab flat again once its removed, leaving you with this cut out bit of metal ;) Drill a 8mm hole in the back of the bulb holder for the new wires to pass through. Once that is done, take both of your 380 bulbs and solder a 10cm piece of wire to each of the connectors to the bottom of the bulb One will be the "high/brightest" connection and one will be the "low/dimmest" connection. I used a power probe to find out which was which. You can fit the circuit board back on the car and test each wire to see which is which if you do not have one of these :) Now you need to solder in a diode to the circuit board, please make sure you solder this in the correct way and to the correct metal paths as I have it shown here. The metal paths need to be either sanded or slightly ground down as they are galvanised and if you don't do this the solder wont stick very well. I used a rotary tool with a small grinding stone to do this as well, I was being lazy Next up you need to cut off the two plastic heads on the circuit board. I did this with a cutting disc on the rotary tool again to give it a clean finish. I've then drilled a 1.5mm hole into the plastic below to allow me to fit a very small self tapping screw into it. I've marked on this photo where I have done this and also which one is for either the high/low bulb wires go onto. Once your happy with your lengths of wire and that they go to the right place (you can always fit the circuit board back onto the car and test which one is high or low) you now need to fit two small ring connectors to the bulb wires. Again I soldered these in and heat shrank them to aid conductivity and protect against short circuits. The tiny self tapping screws I used And the drivers side unit all complete and ready to go :) The passenger side is just a reversed copy of the drivers side, so copy exactly what you did to the drivers side. ill just put the pictures up for a reference. And completed Even though there is a fog light bulb holder on the passenger side tail lamp, the hole for the bulb to access it is not cut out. I used a engravement attachment on the rotary tool as the outline for this hole is already there. All i did was "engrave" this mark deeper and deeper until it cut through. I then used a small sand paper wheel on the rotary tool to clean up the edges and you'll have something that looks like this :) There will be some bits that fall into the light housing itself, you can use a combination of a straw attached to a hover to remove these. If you cant get it all out that way, like i couldn't, I ended up swilling out the light 5-6 times with loads of water and leaving it to dry on a radiator. (BOTH SINGLE/DOUBLE FOG LIGHT VERSIONS) To the drivers side tail lamp connector. The red wire with silver dots is the fog light wire. Remove the electrical tape further up the wiring loom to give some more access. About half way up this photo above you will need to snip the fog light wire (red with silver dots) IF YOU ONLY WANT A SINGLE DRIVERS SIDE FOG LIGHT: Solder in a diode like shown and heat shrink the wire Rewrap the wires in electrical tape and refit the lights back onto the car. Stand back and enjoy the JDM look your tail lights now have :good: IF YOU WANT DOUBLE FOG LIGHTS: Take an electrical connector you've cut from a scrapped toyota. This one below happens to be a CD player connector out of a avensis, which had lying around from when i converted my E11 tail lights (I've already chopped most of it up as you can see ) And cut out a connector pin Solder in a diode noting which way I have it facing and add a good length of wire to it - Enough to travel from the left tail lamp to the right. Then heat shrink the connection Go to the passenger side tail lamp connector and you will notice that one of the six pins on the connector is missing (3rd from top) This is where the fog light wire would normally run. You need to pop open the little clip on the connector using a small flat head screwdriver and feed the connector pin into the slot. Make sure its the right way around!! You will feel it clip into place and then all you have to do is secure it back into place with the original clip :) I then wrapped some electrical tape around the wires at the connector end to make them all hold together securely. Remove the boot rubber seal from around the boot carpet and bottom trim. Remove the two 10mm bolts off the lower boot plastic trim and pop it off Pop the carpet out for some room at the sides of the lights - these are held in with one body trim clip each side. Feed the wire that you've added to the passenger light connector to the drivers side connector. I tapped it in at various places to the original wiring loom that runs along this panel to make sure it doesn't get trapped or caught on anything. Once at the drivers side tail lamp connector, you need to solder in a diode with the wire located as shown! The extra fog light wire must be above the diode (opposite side to the connector) otherwise you will over load the diode. Heat shrink the wire and diode Wrap the wires back up with electrical tape. Refit everything back onto the car, stand back and enjoy the JDM looking tail lights :good: If anyone is unsure of any part of this guide or feels like i haven't explained parts in enough detail - let me know and ill try to improve on it :)



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