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  1. 2 points
    Ive just realised ive never posted this up on this forum so here it is; I decided that I wanted to convert my tail lamps on my compressor to give the JDM look, after seeing Noedel's conversion on the TOC a year so ago. I loved the look it gave to the rear end of the car at night and it looked relatively simple to do. What I didn't like about Noedel's conversion was the fact you had to disable the rear fog light and every year you would have to return the lights back to standard to pass a MOT. As I've messed with car lighting wiring looms of practically every car I've owned, I quickly hatched a plan of "how to do it" in my head. This method allows you to have; 4 sidelights 4 brake lights 2 fog lights displayed in the inner oem fog light area. There will be no unwanted fog light symbol coming up on the dash everytime you brake, nor will all the lights light up when you turn the rear fog on. This way makes all the lights work as it should and it will have no problems going through an MOT like this :) Heres a video of the lights working to give you a idea on how it will look ;) Right first up, parts that you will require; - 2 380 Brake light bulbs - 4 5amp diodes - Some very small screws + screwdriver - 1.5mm/8mm drill bit + drill - Soldering iron and solder - A wiring connector from a scrapped Toyota (If you'd like two rear fog lights) - Rotary tool with attachments - 3m of 1.0mm 16A car wiring loom grade wire - A selection of heat shrink in various sizes - Some sharp side snips - 4 very small electrical o ring connectors I shall start with the drivers tail lamp. First; - Remove the carpet cover in the boot - Remove the white wiring connector on the top nut, it just pulls off - Remove the 3x 10mm nuts - Pull the tail light off the car and remove the connector by pushing in the tab. - Remove the inner light panel from the light assembly by pushing the two black tabs revealing this: The left bulb here is missing - this is the fog light one to be modified. In the fog light slot there is a metal tab which connects to the bottom of the bulb. As we will be using a 2 point bulb we need to remove this. So I used a pair of side snips to cut the tab at the top Using a flat head screw driver lift the tap up to allow the whole piece to simply lift out of the bulb slot. Then push the tab flat again once its removed, leaving you with this cut out bit of metal ;) Drill a 8mm hole in the back of the bulb holder for the new wires to pass through. Once that is done, take both of your 380 bulbs and solder a 10cm piece of wire to each of the connectors to the bottom of the bulb One will be the "high/brightest" connection and one will be the "low/dimmest" connection. I used a power probe to find out which was which. You can fit the circuit board back on the car and test each wire to see which is which if you do not have one of these :) Now you need to solder in a diode to the circuit board, please make sure you solder this in the correct way and to the correct metal paths as I have it shown here. The metal paths need to be either sanded or slightly ground down as they are galvanised and if you don't do this the solder wont stick very well. I used a rotary tool with a small grinding stone to do this as well, I was being lazy Next up you need to cut off the two plastic heads on the circuit board. I did this with a cutting disc on the rotary tool again to give it a clean finish. I've then drilled a 1.5mm hole into the plastic below to allow me to fit a very small self tapping screw into it. I've marked on this photo where I have done this and also which one is for either the high/low bulb wires go onto. Once your happy with your lengths of wire and that they go to the right place (you can always fit the circuit board back onto the car and test which one is high or low) you now need to fit two small ring connectors to the bulb wires. Again I soldered these in and heat shrank them to aid conductivity and protect against short circuits. The tiny self tapping screws I used And the drivers side unit all complete and ready to go :) The passenger side is just a reversed copy of the drivers side, so copy exactly what you did to the drivers side. ill just put the pictures up for a reference. And completed Even though there is a fog light bulb holder on the passenger side tail lamp, the hole for the bulb to access it is not cut out. I used a engravement attachment on the rotary tool as the outline for this hole is already there. All i did was "engrave" this mark deeper and deeper until it cut through. I then used a small sand paper wheel on the rotary tool to clean up the edges and you'll have something that looks like this :) There will be some bits that fall into the light housing itself, you can use a combination of a straw attached to a hover to remove these. If you cant get it all out that way, like i couldn't, I ended up swilling out the light 5-6 times with loads of water and leaving it to dry on a radiator. (BOTH SINGLE/DOUBLE FOG LIGHT VERSIONS) To the drivers side tail lamp connector. The red wire with silver dots is the fog light wire. Remove the electrical tape further up the wiring loom to give some more access. About half way up this photo above you will need to snip the fog light wire (red with silver dots) IF YOU ONLY WANT A SINGLE DRIVERS SIDE FOG LIGHT: Solder in a diode like shown and heat shrink the wire Rewrap the wires in electrical tape and refit the lights back onto the car. Stand back and enjoy the JDM look your tail lights now have :good: IF YOU WANT DOUBLE FOG LIGHTS: Take an electrical connector you've cut from a scrapped toyota. This one below happens to be a CD player connector out of a avensis, which had lying around from when i converted my E11 tail lights (I've already chopped most of it up as you can see ) And cut out a connector pin Solder in a diode noting which way I have it facing and add a good length of wire to it - Enough to travel from the left tail lamp to the right. Then heat shrink the connection Go to the passenger side tail lamp connector and you will notice that one of the six pins on the connector is missing (3rd from top) This is where the fog light wire would normally run. You need to pop open the little clip on the connector using a small flat head screwdriver and feed the connector pin into the slot. Make sure its the right way around!! You will feel it clip into place and then all you have to do is secure it back into place with the original clip :) I then wrapped some electrical tape around the wires at the connector end to make them all hold together securely. Remove the boot rubber seal from around the boot carpet and bottom trim. Remove the two 10mm bolts off the lower boot plastic trim and pop it off Pop the carpet out for some room at the sides of the lights - these are held in with one body trim clip each side. Feed the wire that you've added to the passenger light connector to the drivers side connector. I tapped it in at various places to the original wiring loom that runs along this panel to make sure it doesn't get trapped or caught on anything. Once at the drivers side tail lamp connector, you need to solder in a diode with the wire located as shown! The extra fog light wire must be above the diode (opposite side to the connector) otherwise you will over load the diode. Heat shrink the wire and diode Wrap the wires back up with electrical tape. Refit everything back onto the car, stand back and enjoy the JDM looking tail lights :good: If anyone is unsure of any part of this guide or feels like i haven't explained parts in enough detail - let me know and ill try to improve on it :)
  2. 1 point
    Difficulty - Medium Time - The are 2 stages, one to adjust the brakes themselves and the other to adjust the cable. Cable 10 minutes Including brakes 1 hour. Tools - Jack and wheel brace, flat blade screwdriver, phillips No2 screwdriver, 10mm socket and suitable driver. Trim tool if available. 2 X 10mm spanners. Introduction The handbrake on all 4.2 RAVs is of the "drum in hat/exclusive" type. This consists of a small diameter drum brake which is positioned in the boss of the rear brake disc. Although a handbrake could be incorporated into the disc brake, these are becoming less popular because they rely entirely upon clamping force which requires high actuation force and are exposed to contamination if the vehicle should be used off road. Although the parking brake is efficient, it should be remembered that it is solely a static brake and should never be used dynamically because it is at a huge mecanical disadvantage - a tiny brake inside a large wheel. Even applying it just as the wheels are coming to a stand will eventually cause excessive wear of the components. As it is a static brake the linings should last indefinitely and the brake requires little maintenance. Once adjusted after the linings have bedded to the drum it should normally not be required again for the life of the vehicle. Occasionally the drum brakes may become inefficient due to lack of use, a build up of contaminants or incorrect use. If the linings have become wet (when the vehicle is waded to the depth of 300 - 500mm) the brake will be submerged and can be dried by applying the handbrake with a force of 10kgs for a distance not exceeding 400m at 30mph. If the linings have been replaced they can be bedded by using the same procedure but repeating the process after a cooling period of 1 minute a number of times as required. In this case the brake should be re-adjusted when completed. Once the brakes have been adjusted for the first time, any subsequent adjustment required is likely to be as a result of cable stretch. If you have no reason to suspect the brakes need further adjustment (you haven't renewed the linings etc) then it is acceptable to adjust the cable only. The cost for having the handbrake adjusted can vary. I have heard reports ranging from £25 - £65 which I presume depends on whether the foundation drum brakes have been adjusted or only the cable. Procedure To adjust the foundation parking brake shoes; Working on level ground safely chock the front wheels and release the hand brake. Observing all the usual precautions, jack up and remove one rear wheel. Ideally the vehicle should be jacked and supported on axle stands but if the supplied vehicle jack is used under no circumstances place any part of your body under the vehicle. As the disc is not fixed to the hub it is necessary to secure it by taking two of the wheel nuts and running them up to the disc. The hand brake adjuster is accessible through a rubber bung in the disc. Using a screwdriver, prize out the bung and rotate the disc (it will be stiff as you have to turn the transmission) until the toothed adjuster is visible - it will be somewhere near the bottom ; Use the screwdriver to engage the teeth of the adjuster; To adjust the brake you need to turn the adjuster as shown to expand the shoes; Turn the adjuster until it is no longer possible to move the disc then turn it backwards until the disc is just free. It is OK to hear it rubbing but it should not be tight. Turn the disc a full revolution to make sure there are no tight spots. When complete refit the rubber bung and the roadwheel. Go around and repeat the process at the other wheel but when finished do not lower the wheel to the ground. To adjust the hand brake cable; Go inside the car and use a trim tool or screwdriver to prize the back of the gear stick gaiter upward; The front of the gaiter is hooked under the lower facia so just pull it back to disengage and lift it up over the gearstick but do not try to remove it. Use the phillips screwdriver to remove the 2 screws from the front of the centre console; Fold down the back of the console and remove the cup holders to reveal the 2 fixing bolts. Use a 10mm socket and extension to remove the bolts then lift off the console. Note - it will be necessary to reach under and unplug the wire from the cigar lighter. Now with the console removed the handbrake and cable is very easy to see; Use the 2 X 10mm spanners to unlock the adjusting nut. Hold the bottom nut still and undo the top nut anti clockwise. This photo is from a 4.3 but it is the same; Now turn the bottom nut clockwise to tension the cable. The specification calls for 7 - 9 clicks with a pulling force of 20kgs (44 lbs) - thats a heavy pull! The main thing is not to over adjust it so you should still feel some free play at the bottom of the lever travel. Keep adjusting and testing little by little. If you start at the bottom and pull, you should not feel any resistance until about the third click. As a check go back to the jacked up wheel and check that it turns freely. Replace all of the trim in the reverse order remembering to re-connect that cigar lighter. Lower the remaining wheel and don't forget to finally tighten the road wheel nuts to the specified torque of 76 ft/lbs. As a final check take the vehicle to an incline where it would normally just roll and check to see that it does so in both directions. For those that might prefer the handbrake to be on with just one click don't forget that if it binds it will get hot and cause a lot of damage so whatever happens make sure you do these checks to make sure it is free.
  3. 1 point
    How to install an aftermarket radio/cd/mp3 player in your T25 Avensis - I joined up here and found there wasn't a guide, so I had a go and took some pictures and tried to write one. Hope it's of use! Right. First of all you need a 10m socket, with a long handle so you can unscrew the bolts that hold the radio and air-con unit (which are also stuck together - more on that later). You also need an ISO adapter to suit the Toyota radio plugs (such as: this) and a bit of plastic to fill the gap left around the radio (such as: this) or you can buy them both together. But yeah, basically go on ebay and get an ISO harness adapter and a fascia adapter! FIRST, REMOVE ANY CD YOU HAVE IN THE MACHINE! REMEMBERING THIS ONCE THE RADIO IS ON YOUR KITCHEN TABLE CAUSES CONFUSION AND DELAY. Once you have all the things, first take off the gearknob and surround. The knob unscrews (eventually) and once that's off, I find if you hold the surround by poking your fingers down where the gaiter is and pulling the whole surround upwards using the gaiter as protection it avoids trying to pry it up around the edges. Once you've eased it away, you need to unplug the electrical connector for the cig lighter, which has a little clip, so don't just yank it. Untitled by Tony Lloyd, on Flickr Once that's done, stick the gearknob back on, just so you don't accidentally duff the radio/aircon unit up on the big pointy metal stick should you drop it or something. Next, you want to remove the top trim where the cup holder is. Easiest to open the glovebox, and just pry it away with your fingers. i found it came away pretty easily, but you need to unplug the electrical connector for the heated window, etc. As with the cig lighter there's a clip on the bottom of the plug. Untitled by Tony Lloyd, on Flickr The Radio and Aircon are clipped together as one unit with a big metal frame. the frame is bolted tot he dashboard by 4 brass (or brass coloured) bolts. Two at the top, and two at the bottom. They should be fairly obvious. The top two are a bit tricky to get at, try not to let them fall down behind the dash when you take them out! (You can see the top left one here) Untitled by Tony Lloyd, on Flickr Once you've unscrewed those, ease the radio & aircon block out, and unclip the many electrical plugs from the back. There's 2 for the air-con (IIRC) and three for the CD player if you have stering controls. Obviously some specs will differ slightly, but broadly speaking, the plugs will only fit in the holes they're meant for, so it shoudln't be too bad mating them up again! Once they're all unplugged, your dashboard should looks something like: Untitled by Tony Lloyd, on Flickr And you should have something like this left over: Untitled by Tony Lloyd, on Flickr Unscrew all those bolts/screws on both sides. Once you have the metal side plates off, to separate the air con and stereo units, you slide them sideways from each other. I had to break one of the clips to work this out, but if you just slide the radio to the left (I think) as you look at them, they will slot apart like magic! You can then attach the plastic fascia plate (this one) the same way. Modern radios usually have holes strategically placed in the side of the radio chassis to accept screws/bolts like the above. Mine did, although it didn't like the gold-coloured bolts which were holding the Toyota radio in, so I had to dig our some others. MAKE SURE WHATEVER SCREWS YOU USE AREN'T TOO LONG! (See your radio documentation to be sure, although it's usually embossed on the side or top of your radio saying "WOAH, ONLY 8MM SCREWS, YEAH?" or similar.) Anyway, screw it all together like a meccano thing, with your radio hovering there in mid air (for now), then add the fascia surround, and you might end up with something like this: Untitled by Tony Lloyd, on Flickr Now, the rest should be easy. Take care handling the unit, especially as the plastic fascia adapter is probably flimsy and brittle. Offer it up to where the old one was, and plug the connector adapter onto the toyota wires, then the back of your radio. Don't forget to re-connect the air con too. Then once it's located (you might have to ease the fascia bit into the gap as they're not typically made to the most exacting quality standards), then add the bolts. (It's worth checking everything works before you bolt it all up and put the gear surround and cupholder bits back!). Untitled by Tony Lloyd, on Flickr Basically from here, re-fitting is the reverse of removal! Just carefully ease the gear surround back on (you'll need the knob off again first, then on again after!) and re-fit the top trim (again, starting at the glove-box end) and reconnecting the plug for the heated rear window as you go. Ta-da! Untitled by Tony Lloyd, on Flickr EDIT: I should have mentioned, your steering wheel controls won't work unless you buy an extra harness adapter, which I haven't done. They do seem to be readily available though, here's some.
  4. 1 point
    If anyone still needs information on how to change the spark plugs on a 998cc IQ, I’ve provided details below after completing the job this afternoon. It should take about 90 minutes and is pretty straightforward. Tools required: 10mm socket, 10mm spark plug socket and extension, cross head screwdriver, flat head screwdriver, 3 new denso iridium spark plugs 1. Disconnect the battery connections 2. Loosen the clamps on the large inlet rubber pipe (cross head screwdRiver or 10mm socket) and the clip on the small side pipe on the right hand side of this pipe - and remove 3. Disconnect the 2 electrical plugs on either side of the throttle body (which the inlet pipe goes into. To do this you willl need to press down the clip on side of the connector and ease it off. A flat head screwdriver can help to press down the tab and ease the plug off. It may be useful to disconnect the clamp which holds the wires, by pressing on either side on the tabs where the connector mounts. 4. There are 4 bolts / nuts holding the throttle body in place. Remove the 3 bolts on the front of the throttle body using a 10mm socket. Remove the 10mm nut on the right hand side and slide the throttle body forward. You may want to unclip the 2 rubber hoses at the top of the throttle body where they clip into rubber clips - just press upwards with your fingers to unclip 5. Slide the throttle body forward until it is just clear of the stud which the 4th nut was connected to. Then lift the throttle body up by a couple of inches and insert the stud into the mounting hole. This will keep the throttle body out of the way and ensure that the coolant hoses are not damaged 6. You will then see the 3 coil packs in front of you. Each is held in place with a 10mm bolt. Start with the first one - order isn’t important. Undo the bolt and disconnect the electrical connector. To do this pres down on the tab on top of the connector and ease off. As before, a flat head screwdriver can help here. Then pull out the coil pack and put to one side 7. Using the spark plug spanner, remove the spark plug. This takes a while as the thread on the spark plug is quite long. Screw in the new spark plug to a torque of 15ft lb. insert the coil pack attach the electrical connector and bolt down with the bolt. No torque setting here, but needs to be pretty tight. The hardest thing here is getting the socket off the spark plug - it took a bit of jiggling to get it off. 8. Repeat for the 2 other plugs. I found to get enough clearance for the middle plug, I had to take the throttle body off the stud and lift a bit higher, taking care not to put strain on coolant pipes 9. Refit the throttle body using the 3 bolts and the nut (to connect to the stud) 10. Reattach the electrical plugs on either side of the throttle body, and the connector holding the wire in place, if you removed it 11. Reattach the inlet pipe, and tighten the 2 clamps at either end and the clip holding the smaller side tube in place 12. Reconnect the battery terminals 13. Start car and congratulate yourself for saving so much money by not getting the dealer to do it for you and that it’s 60,000 miles until you have to do it again! I hope this is useful to someone.
  5. 1 point
    This post is designed to give a basic overview of modern Toyota Diesel engines and their commonly troublesome components: How does a Diesel engine work? Firstly Diesel is not as flammable as Petrol. Diesel engines don’t have spark plugs to ignite the fuel, but to bring about combustion they require heat. If you put your finger over the end of a foot pump and pump it, your finger will become hot. This is due to compression of the air trapped inside the pump (the air molecules have less space to move about and collide with each other more frequently causing energy to be given off in the form of heat). The same thing happens in a diesel engine: as the piston moves upwards, the air trapped inside is compressed, causing it to heat up (the temperature reached is circa 400 degrees C). Just before the piston reaches the top of its' stroke, the pump and injectors spray a very fine mist of diesel into the piston chamber. The intense heat of the trapped air in the piston causes the diesel to ignite, forcing the piston down and producing the power stroke which goes through the engine via the gearbox / wheels etc etc and off you go. What are Glow Plugs? When internal sensors detect that the core of the engine block has reached a certain designated temperature, or when a certain amount of time elapses, the glowplug relay switches off the "wait-to-start" light. A pre-heating cycle usually lasts for 2 to 5 seconds. The driver then turns the key to the "start" position. The glowplug relay switches off the glowplugs after the engine is running. In some newer cars, glow plugs continue to operate for up to 180 seconds after engine start to keep the engine within emissions regulations, as combustion efficiency is greatly reduced when the engine is very cold. Link http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glowplug As glow plugs wear out the vehicle will be more difficult to start, run poorly and produce a white/bluey smoke. Glow Plugs are a reasonably cheap to replace. What is D4D? D4D is Toyota’s version of Common Rail Diesel. The term "common rail" refers to the fact that all of the fuel injectors are supplied by a common fuel rail which is nothing more than a pressure accumulator where the fuel is stored at high pressure. This accumulator supplies multiple fuel injectors with high pressure fuel. Modern common rail systems, are governed by an engine control unit (ECU) which opens each injector electronically rather than mechanically. What are Injectors? Fuel injectors are a key part of modern automotive systems, as they're responsible for getting fuel into the engine in a precise, orderly and carefully engineered pattern. Unfortunately, the conditions we drive in are not ideal. Pollution is in the air, and fuel can be contaminated with water, dirt particles and other debris. Regularly changing your fuel filter (according to change interval in your service book) will help keep debris from circulating. You can also add fuel injector cleaner to your fuel tank, which may help solve running issues. Doing this at regular intervals of 10,000 miles or so might provide more cleansing than your engine actually needs, but it shouldn’t harm the system. Injector Cleaner can't improve your car beyond its original factory spec. When injectors fail there are generally two approaches to repair, take the vehicle to a main dealer and have the whole set (£1000+) replaced or find a diesel specialist who may be able to replace or repair individual injectors (circa £250 each) after testing. Fuel Injector problem symptoms include, poor starting, rough running, loss of power, black or white smoke. It is generally known that injectors will need attention after 100,000 miles. What is a Turbo? Turbochargers are a type of forced induction system. They compress the air flowing into the engine. The advantage of compressing the air is that it lets the engine squeeze more air into a cylinder, and more air means that more fuel can be added. Therefore, you get more power from each explosion in each cylinder. A turbocharged engine produces more power overall than the same engine without the turbocharging. When Turbo’s are failing they will typically cause the car to have a loss of power, excessive smoke and in some cases a high pitched whine. Turbo’s can often be repaired bya turbo specialists or replaced with a new unit, obviously a repair is cheaper. What is an SCV? SCV's (Suction Control Valves) are used in Common Rail diesel engines to control the pressure of the fuel in the accumulator. The pressure is varied by the ECU by controlling how much fuel the pump feeds into the accumulator, replacing the fuel as it is delivered into the engine by the injectors. Low pressure for the injectors at idle, high pressure at maximum power. Electrically operated, SCVs can need to open and close at up to 200 times per second and if they stick or fail to open properly then poor running, starting and power loss can occur. Sticking when hot is often cited as a cause of hot starting problems. D4D pumps may have one or two of these valves depending on the type of pump fitted, this is important when ordering the correct parts. Vehicles commonly affected by this have the 1CD-FTV 2.0 D4D Engine 2000-2005, found on RAV4/Avensis/Corolla built between these dates. This article SCV's on the RAV4 Forum provides an overview of the location and parts on a two valve pump. These parts are typically £250 to replace + fitting if required. What is an EGR Valve? Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) is a nitrogen oxide (NOx) emissions reduction technique used in modern engines, EGR works by recirculating a portion of an engine's exhaust gas back to the engine cylinders. After a while the gases containing dirty, sooty carbons start to cover and coat the intake area and valves causing the air to fuel ratio to become unbalanced thus resulting in more black smoke being emitted from the exhaust. This black smoke is then drawn back into the air intake via the EGR valve. A vicious cycle then starts with the engine producing more smoke and sootier carbons being drawn into the intake, a major problem. Symptoms of EGR issues include lack of power, engine hesitancy and then a surge of power followed by black sooty smoke. A fall in fuel economy may also occur. On most Toyota engines the valve is easily removed and cleaned, a dealer will charge an hours labour to do the same job. If the valve fails it will cost around £300 to be supplied and fitted by Mr T. If the vehicle is used continually then carbon clogging could eventually lead to head gasket failure on AD engines, please review the attached document to see if your car has one of these engines.AD Head Gaskets.pdf A simple method of trying to keep the EGR valve clean is to drive the vehicle (once warm) hard by bringing the revs near to the red line, this will result in black soot leaving the exhaust, continue this until the soot no longer appears. This should be a weekly event. This is also known as an Italian Tune Up. Personally as my 2.2 D4D Verso is out of warranty i clean the EGR every 10k, this a superb guide http://www.toyotaown...howtopic=106241 What is D-Cat? D-CAT (Diesel Clean Advanced Technology) is Toyota’s version of a diesel particulate filter (DPF) which is a device designed to remove soot from the exhaust gas of a diesel engine. The soot created by the engine is burnt off during the regeneration process, this process uses fuel which is added by an additional injector, this additional fuel usage reduces MPG when compared with vehicles that dont have a DPF. The regeneration process occurs at road speeds higher than can generally be attained during urban usage ,vehicles driven exclusively at low speeds in urban traffic will require periodic trips at higher speeds to clean out the DPF. On cars with a very high sixth gear the engine revs may be too low to generate sufficient exhaust temperature for regeneration. Occasional harder driving in lower gears should be sufficient to burn off the soot in such cases. With this type of DPF regeneration will be initiated by the ECU every 300 miles or so depending on vehicle use and will take 10 to 15 minutes at 40MPH+ to complete. You shouldn't notice anything other than perhaps a puff of white smoke from the exhaust when the process is completed. If the DPF doesn’t regenerate properly eventually a warning light will be displayed and the vehicle should be taken to a main dealer. Continued usage past this point may destroy the DPF completely so it must be replaced, this will be very expensive (£1000+). DPF Continued If your car is type approved and registered after the date below it will have a DPF to meet the EU Emissions, things can get very complicated here. Vehicles are often built long before being registered, so you could purchase a 2010 car that was a 2009 model. Its important to ask what model year your car is and which emission standard it meets. Its possible to be driving a 10/60 or even an 11 Reg thats not Euro 5 (V) if the car was built long before being registered. Euro 5 (V) Emissions Standard Commenced - September 2009 If you only drive low mileages in town do not buy a Diesel with a DPF. A Petrol is more suitable. Modern Diesels are very complex machines, following manufacturer servicing guidelines is essential as is using the correct oils, fluids and drivers checking levels frequently. The issues mentioned above are not restricted to Toyota's, all manufacturers have these issues and probably more of them. Hopefully this is useful to people Please PM me if any of this requires amending.
  6. 1 point
    How to reset your Auto electric window function. Auhor: GIDDLEPIN If, like me, you let the wife use your beloved Auris to pop down to the post box when the weather's freezing and, if like my wife yours decides to wind the window down to clear the ice off (?????)... and, if like mine, your window is frozen solid and it stops the auto function working and causes the auto light on the switch to flash, here's the procedure to reprogramme the auto wind unit. Simply turn the ignition on, wind the window all the way to the bottom and hold the switch down for at least ten seconds. Then wind it all the way back up again and hold the switch for another ten seconds and voila, the system's reset!
  7. 1 point
    When i was looking for a Guide for adjusting the handbrake there wasnt one,so i just thought id knock a quick one up and hope that it may help someone else. I fitted new brake discs and the handbrake was adjusted fully at the bottom nut,so make sure this is done first really. The first step is to remove the chrome frame around the gear stick gaiter..see pic Just a slight pull from the rear lifting it up is suffice. Next step after the chrome frame is removed is to lift the actual gaiter upwards as far as it will go to aid access. We now need to remove the trim that will allow access to the handbrake adjustment nuts. The trim may seem quite stubborn to remove but just grasp the rear of the trim at the back of the gear stick and lift at the same time as gently pulling backwards and ease it away from the gear stick,be a bit careful with this as the wires for the ashtray illumination are attached,i didn;t remove the wire connection i just laid it to one side on the passenger floor out of the way. This is the view once the trim has been removed. Next step is to remove the 2 screws which are highlighted with red arrows this to allow the centre console to be removed. After the 2 screws are removed you need to ease away the console which surrounds the handbrake lever its self,which again be gentle with it but use enough force to disengage the console away from the 2 lugs at the back,it does seem tight but it will snap away just dont go mad with it. Ease away the the trim indicated by the red arrows. Heres a view with the trim removed. The red arrow in this pic indicates the position of the handbrake adjustment screws. You will need a long 10mm socket like this to undo the lock nut first of all. You will also need a 10mm open ended spanner to hold the bottom nut whilst you undo the lock nut completely. Dont loose the lock nut like i nearly did.After you have undone the lock nut you can then adjust nut turning it clock wise to take up- the slack,keep trying your hand brake until you have 3 to 4 clicks ,i did mine to 3 clicks but bear in mind you dont want to over tighten the nut as the handbrake shoes are at risk of binding and you dont want tha After you are happy with the adjustment,re screw the lock nut back on Next step although not essential is to lubricate the mechanism so its nice and easy to operate, i also sprayed the button as well. Just reverse the operation to refit everything back Now my handbrake is perfect.



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