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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/07/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    With a weather of around 38 - 40 celcius i keep the ac on at 23 celcius at the eco mode, the cabin cools nicely and the ac doesn't make a lot of noise unless i of course increase the fan speed, it usually takes about 10 seconds for the cabin to cool down
  2. 2 points
  3. 2 points
    My 1984 Corolla RWD project & daily driver 🙂
  4. 1 point
  5. 1 point
    Hi again, Mary, As I said before, I didn't want to sound nasty and there was no wrist slapping intended. I have just had a look at my service book and I have nine stamps in it, as I said, four of those are 40,000 mile services and my Toyota dealer has never contacted me to remind me of any of them......To be honest the only time they got in touch was after two years of ownership when they rang to see if I wanted to swap the car. My local dealer doesn't exactly inspire confidence with their customer service or car servicing and that's why I went to a local independant garage as soon as possible. My biggest concern for you is that I worry for when you come to part exchange your car and the first thing that will be said is that it doesn't have a full service history as the first stamp is at 20,000 miles. I don't think it will work but if you explain the misunderstanding to your dealer, they might give you a letter, explaining their side and practices that you can keep with your service records. In saying that, don't worry or beat yourself up as you have acted quickly now that you know but please remember, as Joe (Catlover) says with some kind of memory jogger, to book it in again, next July. All the best, Mary and happy motoring!
  6. 1 point
    I have just downloaded and installed the 2020/1 map update via USB and here are a few observations which may help others. 1) You will need at least a 16 GByte usb stick, preferably USB3 for speed, the file size is 11.9 Gbytes. 2) If your computer is like mine (Windows 10 64bit ) don't try to unzip by directly copying the FMU folder straight to USB. This was desperately slow and would have taken hours. Instead unzip to your local hard drive ( 2 minutes ) then copy the FMU folder to your USB stick, 3 minutes or so at USB 3 speed of around 80 to 90 MB second. 3) The message on the Toyota screen says the engine must be running but of course the hybrid will only run the engine when it needs to. Just stay in READY mode. 4) Feel free to curse Toyota for requiring a huge validation code to be entered on the touch screen! There is nothing you can do about the slow install time ( > 1 hour) for the update but the car can be driven while it is in progress.
  7. 1 point
    Hi. I have a 2004 t-sport. Rear brake discs need replacing. Have managed to remove ns disc and caliper so all fine there. Problem then started when got to the drivers side. Managed to remove bottom caliper bolt, but have then managed to round off the other one as well as the 2 slider bolts. Does anybody have any tips as to get them off and what the replacement part numbers are and where to get them during this lockdown. Cheers Trev.
  8. 1 point
    Oil burning on the 1.33L is a widely reported issue and seems to be a design fault. My Auris is a 2010 model and has seen 4 litres added in the last 2 months, mileage is only 67k. I agree that it is not a good situation.
  9. 1 point
  10. 1 point
    DIY updates can be done, however they are at the owners risk and if something should go wrong you would have difficulty making a warranty claim. For the audio update: Determine the model ID of your DCU (SETUP -> General -> Software update ). In the following link, replace the placeholder " <DCU-ID> " with your DCU-ID. So "streamtechdoc.toyota-motor-europe.com/techdoc3/audio_navigation/ <DCU id> _Latest.zip" for example, to "streamtechdoc.toyota-motor-europe.com/techdoc3/audio_navigation/17TDT1EU-DA01 _Latest.zip" Put this URL in your browser in the URL address bar, press the return key and the latest audio update will be downloaded to your computer. For the navigation software update: Determine the model ID of your MEU (SETUP -> General -> Software update ). In the following link, replace the placeholder " <MEU-ID> " with your MEU-ID. So "streamtechdoc.toyota-motor-europe.com/techdoc3/audio_navigation/ <MEU id> _Latest.zip" for example, to "streamtechdoc.toyota-motor-europe.com/techdoc3/audio_navigation/17TMT2EU-FA00 _Latest.zip" Put this URL in your browser in the URL address bar, press the Return key and the latest Navisoftware update will be downloaded to your computer. The DCU/MEU ID's must be taken from your own car do not use ID's from elsewhere. Once downloaded extract the files on your PC then copy the file to the root of an empty USB, the updates must be done separately.
  11. 1 point
    I take your friend is state side
  12. 1 point
    What you say links into my thoughts. I would have thought additives, to work correctly, would need to be measured for strength in the tank in order to work correctly. Seems a bit hit and miss just adding a bottle, when you fill up. Premium fuel with mixed additives seems the way to get a consistent strength in your tank. I remember the trials of getting 2 stroke oil and petrol strength right, it was a faff, and you knew when you got it wrong, which was most of the time.
  13. 1 point
    Seems like my time of owning a spacious, quick car is over. Still looking for an ayg. Hope you are all safe, sane and employed!
  14. 1 point
    I ran a 2005 Corolla 1.4 for 120000 miles on top of the 35000 I had on when I bought it. My advice would be services on the dot every 10k and follow the schedule to the letter. Plus v power fuel also made it run better. If never used a drop of oil and consumption stayed at around 40 mpg. Still original clutch too.
  15. 1 point
    I would not go anywhere near the hybrid battery terminals and I cannot see the need to connect the negative to anything other than the body or engine. This is what my manual says for the negative terminal: Connect the clamp at the other end of the negative cable to a solid, stationary, unpainted metallic point away from the 12-volt battery and any moving parts Absolutely no mention of connecting it to the hybrid battery terminal. 😒
  16. 1 point
    It's not the hybrid battery, you're definitely not doing anything with 200 volts :) Like all modern cars it has negative earth wiring, so all metal parts of the car are tied to the negative terminal on the 12V battery. Not sure specifically about the gen 4 Prius but the manual probably just shows some decent earth post somewhere in the engine bay (for gen 3 it's part of the engine). It's not recommended to jump start cars by connecting both leads directly to the 12V battery as there's a risk of spark and potential explosion (lead acid batteries can emit hydrogen gas in certain situations), and it's easy to find a good earth point somewhere else so this is common practise. When using a battery charger (as opposed to jump starting) the current involved is low, so there's a lower risk of creating a spark. It's OK to connect a charger to the positive and negative terminals directly on the 12V battery.
  17. 1 point
    A mechanic once told me if my car was serviced well and regular it will run forever. I'm on 134k and 16 y/o and she's still a beast 🙌🏻 treat her well and she'll do you good
  18. 1 point
    Thankfully, no. I think the dealer is still hopeful that the demand will still be fairly high once 'normality' resumes.
  19. 1 point
    Many thanks for that. Order now just waiting for delivery next week. Now to complete the undersealing and fit these when they arrive cheers Trev
  20. 1 point
    You need to register & pay for access here as it contains repair manuals etc but you can pay for access by the hour,day month etc and content is downloadable, to access Technical service bulletins: Select repair > from Payable access Select Technical service bulletin, input VIN number or select model manually > select Search on the RHS then scroll through to locate bulletin number
  21. 1 point
    It's the cam cover Gasket/seals that are leaking that fills up the plug holes, simple and cheap fix, if its weeping down out the front the exhaust will burn the oil off what may give a bit off smoke eg. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Genuine-ELRING-Cylinder-Head-Cover-Seal-Gasket-497-380-Top-German-Quality/402189379997?fits=Model%3AAygo|Cars+Type%3A1.0&epid=1642077796&hash=item5da45ae99d:g:nn0AAOSwmTddWW-4 i take it its a 1.0L petrol as for the slow second gear try changing up gear later
  22. 1 point
    I just happen to have one of these turbos. so, I've just taken a couple of photos. The maximum movement of the rod is 10mm.
  23. 1 point
    Probably just my eyes or the angle, but there doesn't seem to be a great deal of travel on that. I no longer have my Avensis so I can't easily check what the movement range should be. The rate of movement seems to be comparable to what I remember on mine. I would be checking air and vacuum lines for leaks, just as a matter of course, though.
  24. 1 point
    I’ve had several cars different manufactures with radar systems on them and the all have had the same issue. Even dried road spray can stop it working. Better that it disables Rather than gives erroneous information, it’s only an aid after all.
  25. 1 point
  26. 1 point
    Hi does anyone know if Wefa adapter reviewed by KonradC, would work on B9010 sat nav unit? never mind. Ordered it and tried it myself. It does work with B9010.
  27. 1 point
    So, picked up the final piece o& the jigsaw on Friday - revised lh boot trim with a big recess in it, as opposed to being flat - and slotted it in in 5 seconds. Hey presto. Boot trim by Richard Fletcher, on Flickr Boot trim by Richard Fletcher, on Flickr Boot trim by Richard Fletcher, on Flickr
  28. 1 point
    After some spirited driving last night the brakes on my t sport had overheated and when i needed them, they werent rly there. This scared the ***t out of me. I was just wondering if other Tsport owners had the same problem. And what they did about it/what they upgraded to looking forward to ur replies regards
  29. 1 point
    MDB2257 fronts MDB2596 Rear MDK0229 front pad and disk set mintex list all the 1.8 t sports the same Power in KW 1.8 VVTL-i TS 01/01 - 09/06 140 1.8 VVTL-i TS (ZZE123) 01/02 - 02/07 141 1.8 VVTL-i TS (ZZE123_) 02/05 - 02/07 165 1.8 VVTL-i TS (ZZE123_) 10/05 - 12/06 160
  30. 1 point
    OK: Retaining bolt ( for space saver ) 51931-02320 Floor foam 64778-02050 RH "Tool" foam 64995-02120 Space saver wheel 42611-0F091 Tyre 125/70D17 Jack 09111-F4010 Jack handle 09113-F4010 Wrench 09150-F4010
  31. 1 point
    My big question is why bother? I drove almost 140.000km on my Corolla Verso and had 0 punctures, meaning that I've carried just an extra unuseful load for that long distance... Before that, my Almera 1.5 that I drove for 90.000km before the family outgrown it, had 1 puncture when I hit a pothole to avoid a collision with a truck on a very narrow road. But it was a slow puncture on the side so I'd get way with the TRK till I visit the nearest shop. My wife Yaris 1.0 got one puncture in over 88.000km (maybe hitting hard on a sidewalk, I'm not sure) but again she would probably get away with the TRK. And on her previous Micra 1.0, our first car, I don't remember to have a single puncture. Summing up that's 2 punctures in over 400.000km and counting... And on both occasions a TRK would do the trick. Unless one live on a desert area, we really don't need more than a TRK. The TS comes with the space and no foam pad at all, just a bag with some velcro to stay in place. I like to have that space free to fill when I need (vacation with five people and a dog is an opportunity to tes our capacity to puzzle, no matter how big is the car trunk). Be cool and enjoy the space saver and lightweight TRK.
  32. 1 point
    I'm running Brembo Pads and discs on my Compressor, they seem alright. Yes was also surprised this post has come back up again after 10 years!
  33. 1 point
    That is the mother of all post revivals right there Last post 2009 ah well yeah my slider pins were corroded cockstiff but with some vicegrips and gentle persuasion i was able to get them out. quick buff up and some copper slip and all was right with the world. if its proper f***d you can get new pagid reconditioned ones from Northampton eurocarparts for ~£140 but you have to take the old caliper in for a trade If you want im only down the road and would be happy to run you there with the old caliper if you don't have a spare car. now onto my problems. Unfortunately when I did the brakes I put some nice new £60 Brembo pads on thinking they would be, idk, good? real story is I bedded them in properly gave it a week of normal driving before i sent it. long story short very little fade, excellent bite, BUT they have been on for under a month and I am nearly on the wear indicators. oh and I set them on fire once. soooo anyone got any recommendations currently looking at mintex and ferodo I could go easier on them but why would I do that. Cheers Tom
  34. 1 point
    That is a rear pad from my Avensis. It isn't clear because the focus isn't very good but, inside the little square on the back of the pad it says Pagid. So, it's an original Toyota pad for a Bosch caliper stamped Pagid. You just don't know what you are getting. Go to Toyota and get the originals. Or buy Bosch and get the originals. Or buy Pagid and get the originals. The choice is yours. All brake pads create dust, it's a by-product of the wearing process, you can't stop it.
  35. 1 point
    R134a is conventional AC gas and not particularly expensive however being a Hybrid you must ensure whoever recovers and regasses the AC system uses the correct ND11 oil ( usually means a separate AC machine just for Hybrids or a machine that can recover and inject multiple oils ) as a hybrid uses an electric compressor and requires ND11 oil as it is not electrically conductive, normal cars with belt driven compressors generally use ND8 oil which is electrically conductive and will most likely short the compressor.
  36. 1 point
    My 2000 avensis 2.0 gls auto with 53k on clock two owners from new and full Toyota history
  37. 1 point
    Personally I’d wait and get the job done once. Steam cleaning is a essential part of rustproofing - it cleans difficult to brush areas and cleans off any salt. Tests done over the years by motoring magazines don’t indicate a huge difference between rustproofing fluids. However if you want a clear finish - some products don’t fit the bill. The favoured product by classic car owners is Dynax -it’s a top class product and it’s available in clear -very important to a classic owner.
  38. 1 point
    I'd try to write the guy a message. I see he has not been around for some time, but maybe he will get it in the mail. This is just a guess, but have you checked the intake manifold? Maybe the problem is in air delivery, or flappers inside the manifold are somehow obstructing the air intake, but get cleared, or more open when warm?
  39. 1 point
    Hey guys new to this site . Had the same prob after I fitted a rear caliper , discs and pads . My model is an avensis 2010 2.0 d4d epb brake . Had the fault code c1346 and c1336. Here is a bosh kts instruction on how to calibrate . It worked for me and auto hold and rev change and cruise control is back again . Any questions just ask
  40. 1 point
    My 60th today ... Yanks a throwing a huge party! Celebratory cruise mebbies... In the rain! 2sav
  41. 1 point
    I decided to change the transmission (PSD) oil. Our car has covered 35,000 miles. There is no service requirement for this in the Toyota schedule. The old (factory fill) oil is on the left, the new oil (Toyota WS ATF) is on the right. If it is if any use:- The transmission is rated at 3.3 litre capacity. I carefully measured how much emptied out, it was 2.95 litres, that was with the car raised at the front, or level on all wheels, no more would drain. The torque for both fill and drain bolts is 29 lb/ft. A 10mm hex driver for your socket set is fairly essential as the access is a tiny bit limited, so an Allen key probably won't work, and besides, you won't be able to torque it back up properly with an Allen key. Some of the six 10mm M6 bolts that secure the undertray were quite badly corroded, I could imagine these snapping off if you were in a rush (they fit into a steel chassis member). The fill plug is to the left of the drive shaft, the drain is underneath the drive shaft, but further under the box. In this photo, the front of the car is on the right, so the view (and access) of these plugs is from the centre of the car at the back of the engine compartment. The engine sump is in the top r/h of the picture. The drain/fill plugs release quite suddenly with a crack - watch your knuckles. Don't forget to undo the fill plug first. When refitting the undertray, it is worth noting that the clips that (on this car at least) fit to the rear of the tray (top of the picture) are 2 different sizes. The bigger clips have a grey insert, and are a b*gger to refit unless the centre pin is completely removed first, then it's effortless.
  42. 1 point
    To me the fact it passed it's MOT is encouraging, they wouldn't let you drive a car that's falling to bits. It's obviously seen better days, but at the same time there are plenty of other cars that look worse than that which are only 10 years old. Surface rust, as far as I'm concerned, is fairly straight forward. Sand off the rust and paint until you're at the bare metal, apply your filler, sand that back, then paint it. It's a job you can more or less do yourself, even if you just sort the rust out yourself and pass it on to a paintshop to respray it. Put your mind at rest take it to a garage and just get them to inspect the chassis, see if the frame underneath is rotten at all. I will say though that the car is yours and isn't the responsibility of anyone else. When my Dad was in hospital I was going there twice a day for the week he was crticially ill, and I was driving my 107 which had caused me some grief up until that point. I had a feeling it had a problem, and while I was in the car I promised it if it didn't let me down while my Dad was sick I'd never get rid of it. My old man died in that week and the car didn't fail properly until another 2/3 months after that. At that point I had inherited my Dad's car and just used that and had parked up my 107. My mom, sister, girlfriend all told me to get rid of my 107 because "there's no point in having 2 cars". I never told them about the "pact" I made with the car, in all honesty I've never told anyone. When they ask why I still have the car I just reply that I like it - which I do - and that it's my weekend Ferrari. I've the intention of keeping it indefinately, it's the first new car I owned myself and I'd like to keep it until I pop my clogs. It will all depend on how well I protect it from the girlfriend rather than rust! If she had her way she'd sell it in an hour. But she won't have her way :) But you owning a car is down to you, not anyone else. Most people will see it as a rust bucket and worth all of £50. But you have a connection with this car under the circumstances. If the car is fine and it's just minor/moderate issues with it that can be fixed over time then why not keep it? It's under the classic car rules, and it's easy to find in a car park! But don't let your heart rule your head. If there's major problems and you can't afford it, then it's best to let it go. But as I said, it's passed it's MOT so it's legal to drive. Did the MOT bring up any advisorys?
  43. 1 point
    SOLVED I still can't believe this. I had searched the Internet, asked Toyota, and tried all sorts of things. I had eventually given up. Then one day about a month ago I noticed that both main brake lights were not working. (A secondary light in the rear window was still working.) It turned out that the bulbs were blown, so I duly replaced them. The next day I noticed that the ABS light was no longer coming on. It has not reappeared since. The only way I can understand this is that the ABS system somehow monitors the brake pedal position through the brake light switch. Somehow the fact that two bulbs were blown was affecting the monitoring of the brake switch. I really don't know, but I hope that this info may help others.
  44. 1 point
    Hello, whilst I'm 100% in favour of preventative maintenance I wouldn't worry too much about your water pump, it will normally start weeping before a big leak starts so just do your weekly water, oil, brake fluid and other visual checks and you will be fine, any small loss of water and you will have ample time to check if it's the water pump. ;) Regards Pete.
  45. 1 point
    well it likes a lil drop of oil but original engine /gearbox and never had a clutch in it yet lol
  46. 1 point
    WOW at the 251k .... 102k on my T-sport and is no different from when it was on 50 - 60k, Toyota themselves on the otherhand, well thats a different story. I still don't get the oil issue, mine just does not use much oil at all...... must have one of the good ones.....
  47. 1 point
    Hello, My 6 year old T Sport (04) is coming up on 120k in just a few miles, still does not noticeably use any more oil than when it was 18 months when I got it, it was always juicy anyways so can't comment on fuel consumption, the air con still blows cool - never been re-gassed, and apart from leaving the factory with a few problems, once they were ironed out all I've had to do is change oil and filters every 10k and the usual brake pads/discs replacement when required. The exhaust has been sounding baffly for 3 years but still on the original system. Gets lifted and driven hard every single day. Changed lift bolts at 100k, don't believe the hype - no upward gain in lift, you get used to it so you want more power at the end of the day, so where do you stop with that one? Sky rocket maybe... Cheers.
  48. 1 point
    yeh ive just passed 105k on my 2003 tsport and its sound as a pound. as the miles got higher i noticed engine gets louder but i just put a cone filter on to give it a difrent sound so its not that bad. after i get used to that sound il be changing exhaust lol the trick is to keep up with oil changes ect and it will run for ever
  49. 1 point
    Riccs breaks were far better than ine. And I was running RedStuff pads and EBC Discs. Ricc will agree that my breakes were garbage. I've just bought the same breaks as Ricc and will be fitting them tomorrow. When I drove his the other week my head nearly went through the windscreen.
  50. 1 point
    The CTS (PFL, not sure about FL) unlike a lot of other modern cars needs the brake pedal applied hard as it doesnt have electronic brake assist, its a proven fact that in a lot of accidents the Driver doesnt apply the brakes hard enough. Our old CTS had Mintex already and they were an improvement on the original OE stuff, however the pedal still had to be applied with the same of force.

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