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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/23/2020 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    REF..... code P264A - 'A' Rocker Arm Actuator Position Sensor Circuit Bank 1 I have a Toyota auris tr valvematic 2011 plate 64K on the clock… with the above fault code....... Does NOT show up all the time, it’s very intermediate however it does seem to be more active once the engine is up and running and hot (normal running temp) I'd really appreciate ANY advice ANYONE could tell me to point me in the right direction to fix this poxy problem. I’ve done huge amount of homework on this issue sadly NO WHERE can i find a definitive explanation what the hell a * rocker arm actuator * is….. Or images of the part that could be a fault, let alone the !Removed! location of it on the engine. I’ve checked many things the car did have an oil change over 90 days ago ( with the correct oil ) However It making me think it’s something to do with the Oil its self after reading some sites…. Over filled / under filled / wrong oil ? I have removed 1L of oil so the car has now…… half a filled sump….. On the dip stick. I have remove both Camshaft oil timing controls and cleaned them (they won’t dirty anyway) I am now TOTALLY at a loss …….What the hell is making the car do this…. let alone what a * rocker arm actuator * is….. Or its location of it on the engine so I could change it. HELP !!!!!! 🙄😂😂
  2. 1 point
    Right. I'm over in Uist at the moment. EV charge now depleted after 12 days of driving just on HV, first in Lewis/Harris. The CYC app doesn't work and an RFD card didn't arrive in time for me to use the (mostly) free charge points. I've browsed the manual for the charge mode, and can't find the damn thing! It's not desperate, most of the journeys have yielded into the 80's, way better than the RAV4 hybrid we had last year, and better than the gen2&3 before it. It would be useful to have some charge to save gassing the poor ferry crew more than they all ready are!
  3. 1 point
    After several long distance runs my results, although not controlled, suggest that the use of charge mode does give a minor saving over using the HV mode, but it is marginal. However you do get to run almost half those miles in EV, which is, in my opinion, much better than HV driving. In charge mode it uses about 3.5 litres (per 30 miles) to give 25 miles of EV. In HV mode a run of 110 miles would need about 8 litres of petrol. So on a run of 110 miles in HV charge mode you would run about 30 miles (3.5 litres) in charge mode then 25 miles or so in EV, repeated for the final 55 miles. So the potential saving by toggling HV charge mode and EV is about 1p per mile or £1 per 100 miles. OOI we did a 230 mile journey this weekend at over 199 mpg by using three public chargers to top up - all linked in to stops for shopping or refreshment. (Beverley - free, Driffield - free and Lidl in York - £1.20). Although not the fastest charge rate The PHV gives about 30 miles range after 2 hours. A couple of overnight charges on the domestic supply.
  4. 1 point
    Understand your points and will test Normal HV out next time we do a long run. I am certain the miles we did on Charge Mode used more fuel than HV only, but to match the 50 miles or so we got from Charge Mode it would need to be less than 6 litres for the 100 miles or so we travelled in total for 5.8 litres. Can you achieve 90mpg in HV mode? Cheers Tony B
  5. 1 point
    Our first run in the Prius has been completed and with judicious charging and using the charge mode we completed a 220 mile journey with 5.8 litres of petrol (full to full). That is well over 150 mpg plus 3 full paid charges (about £3) and one free top up in the Flemingate shopping centre. About 75% was EV so we travelled about 55 miles on charge mode. This is about 45mpg. The charge mode seems to generate 1EV mile for every mile travelled so we recovered about 50 EV miles on the journey, so I assume that would be the same as 90mpg in normal HV mode. Whichever way you look at it the Prius PHV is amazing at 4p per mile. None of this was at the cost of slow driving - mainly A roads at speed limits. More results in the future. Tony B
  6. 1 point
    Up to a point, that is sound advice but where's the fun in that? Surely half the enjoyment of driving a Prius is endlessly obsessing over the information screens and trying to find new techniques to maximise miles per gallon? 😄 My commute would be boring as hell if I wasn't trying to work out some daft new scheme to maximise economy, like trying to decide whether switching to EV mode to go up hills is more economical than using the ICE, or determining precisely how cold I'm prepared to let my feet get before switching on the heater, or whether it's more economical to overtake the tractor in electric-only EV City rather than letting the ICE take some of the strain in standard EV mode... Sometimes those daft ideas actually work, too. The car is very clever at managing itself to maximise efficiency, but it can still be beaten. For example, if I switch to HV mode on the way to work after 20 miles, saving what's left in EV for the journey home, that gets me consistently better average mileage than when I leave the car to itself and it exhausts the EV range on the first leg. Would it be even better if I switched after 15 miles, and saved even more for the return? Maybe. That might just be next week's challenge... Come on. Don't deny me the thrill of discovery by suggesting I'd be better off just letting the car do its thing. It's the only thrill I get these days!
  7. 1 point
    Charge mode is entirely for future legislation in this country, or present legislation in other countries, which forbids exhaust emissions in certain city areas- you use it to charge up before you enter. It will always have a detrimental effect on overall fuel consumption- sending power from petrol engine to wheels is more efficient than sending it from petrol engine, to generator to inverter to battery from battery to inverter to motor to wheels. New Prius owners always want to understand how it works and drive to beat the Toyota default. After about three months it dawns on you- you can't. Just go to the dashboard settings, switch off every bit of dashboard display you can, then sit back, relax, and concentrate on the steering wheel, accelerator and brake (and that little lever that tells it whether to go forwards or backwards is sometimes useful too). Doing this, I guarantee you'll get better consumption than by any special driving technique or trick use of the car's various modes. Enjoy your new car Pete
  8. 1 point
    It's not just regen in HV mode. As Aaron said above, the car will divert any 'spare' ICE energy into the battery whenever it works out that it's not needed to drive the wheels. It's not unusual to see the EV range creep up when accelerating gently in HV. Of course, you'll never 'fill up' in HV mode but I've seen it pick up a couple of miles of EV range over 30 miles of driving. I've experimented with Charge mode and found it had a negative impact on economy, although I wasn't on a motorway to be fair. I'll keep using HV mode myself, but I'll be interested to hear how you get on with it. Please let us know! Averaging 100mpg across 10k miles shouldn't be a problem in that scenario, although how far you can go above that will depend on weather throughout the year as that has a dramatic impact on EV range. On a warm, dry day I'll get 32-36 actual miles on EV. On a cold, wet day that will drop all the way down to 16-20 miles. On a journey of 80 miles, that will have an enormous impact on mpg - expect less than 100mpg in the winter months, balanced by considerably more in the summer.
  9. 1 point
    In HV mode it will still use MG1 to charge the battery in order to maintain the state of charge to an extent, not just regen. "HV Auto" mode will make more use of the battery until it is depleted to HV-only levels. There are no separate "parts" of the battery as such, there are just two modes of how the car displays the SOC - the "EV" showing around 30-80% SOC, and the "HV" showing around 20-30% SOC (equivalent of a standard Prius). It only displays the latter once the battery is near the lower range of SOC. For longer journeys, assuming you're starting with a full charge, it'll more efficient to use HV mode and switch to EV for low-speed sections. It's even recommended in the manual in my Gen 1 Plug-in (probably same for the Gen 2). Charge Mode does not seem like an efficient solution to me. I think the intention is for using before entering strict LEV/ZEV zones if such things exist somewhere (or maybe they will in future), and you didn't have an opportunity to charge off the mains.
  10. 1 point
    I would be disinclined to trust your YouTube sources, on the basis that if they're driving at 82mph and trying to be economical (either financially or in terms of fuel), then they're doing it wrong! There's a lot of inefficiency in Charge mode - you're using an inefficient source (the ICE) to put power into the battery with associated transfer losses, then you're getting that power back out of the battery with further associated losses. Whilst not all the power harvesting will be inefficient (the hybrid system is fiendishly clever in siphoning off power that isn't 'needed') the car is set up to do that all the time anyway even when not in Charge mode. In the circumstances you describe, I would suggest that it would be more efficient to charge the car at home and just switch to HV mode during the journey once the EV range drops to approximately the amount of 'town driving' you're going to do at the end of your journey. That will keep enough in the battery to use EV mode in town, without wasting fuel in Charge mode. This is basically what Geoff is describing above, using HV as the default. That only makes sense on long journeys though - don't switch to HV mode and then find you get back home to your charger with EV range to spare! The only time I could see Charge mode having any real value is if you can't charge the car from a socket before setting off. It could then be used on a long run to build up charge for EV driving later on. Even then, the transfer losses mean that I'm not convinced it would work out more to be more efficient overall, but it would give the advantage of reducing local noise and pollution in the built-up area. Personally I'd just stick with HV mode which gives pretty phenomenal returns even on an empty battery. It is at least as good as the Gen4 ordinaire despite the extra weight being lugged around, possibly because it can store more regen charge in the larger battery. Set the cruise to 65mph on the motorway, leave the outside lane to the German dieselburgers, relax and enjoy an easy 70+mpg. Away from the motorway, I'v found mid-90s mpg to be achievable on a warm day when starting with zero EV range, although perhaps not in Yorkshire as you have proper hills up there!
  11. 1 point
    Fully understand the standard HV mode and thanks for the guidance on MPG in the Prius PHV. I was expecting nearer 60mpg at motorway speed and less in towns. I will update on Charge Mode costs/savings once I've done my own test - as a Yorkshireman every penny saved...... Also every mile on EV saves a drop of pollution (If it is more efficient to use the petrol for charge mode than moving the car by ICE of course). Cheers Tony B
  12. 1 point
    Not sure if this will work or how long it will stay on the site but if you download the attached zip file, unzip it to a single folder, browse to the "rm11t4e folder and then double click "index2" you should get the Toyota manual for the iQ Craig. Toyota_iQ_manual.zip
  13. 1 point
    Difficulty - Medium Time - The are 2 stages, one to adjust the brakes themselves and the other to adjust the cable. Cable 10 minutes Including brakes 1 hour. Tools - Jack and wheel brace, flat blade screwdriver, phillips No2 screwdriver, 10mm socket and suitable driver. Trim tool if available. 2 X 10mm spanners. Introduction The handbrake on all 4.2 RAVs is of the "drum in hat/exclusive" type. This consists of a small diameter drum brake which is positioned in the boss of the rear brake disc. Although a handbrake could be incorporated into the disc brake, these are becoming less popular because they rely entirely upon clamping force which requires high actuation force and are exposed to contamination if the vehicle should be used off road. Although the parking brake is efficient, it should be remembered that it is solely a static brake and should never be used dynamically because it is at a huge mecanical disadvantage - a tiny brake inside a large wheel. Even applying it just as the wheels are coming to a stand will eventually cause excessive wear of the components. As it is a static brake the linings should last indefinitely and the brake requires little maintenance. Once adjusted after the linings have bedded to the drum it should normally not be required again for the life of the vehicle. Occasionally the drum brakes may become inefficient due to lack of use, a build up of contaminants or incorrect use. If the linings have become wet (when the vehicle is waded to the depth of 300 - 500mm) the brake will be submerged and can be dried by applying the handbrake with a force of 10kgs for a distance not exceeding 400m at 30mph. If the linings have been replaced they can be bedded by using the same procedure but repeating the process after a cooling period of 1 minute a number of times as required. In this case the brake should be re-adjusted when completed. Once the brakes have been adjusted for the first time, any subsequent adjustment required is likely to be as a result of cable stretch. If you have no reason to suspect the brakes need further adjustment (you haven't renewed the linings etc) then it is acceptable to adjust the cable only. The cost for having the handbrake adjusted can vary. I have heard reports ranging from £25 - £65 which I presume depends on whether the foundation drum brakes have been adjusted or only the cable. Procedure To adjust the foundation parking brake shoes; Working on level ground safely chock the front wheels and release the hand brake. Observing all the usual precautions, jack up and remove one rear wheel. Ideally the vehicle should be jacked and supported on axle stands but if the supplied vehicle jack is used under no circumstances place any part of your body under the vehicle. As the disc is not fixed to the hub it is necessary to secure it by taking two of the wheel nuts and running them up to the disc. The hand brake adjuster is accessible through a rubber bung in the disc. Using a screwdriver, prize out the bung and rotate the disc (it will be stiff as you have to turn the transmission) until the toothed adjuster is visible - it will be somewhere near the bottom ; Use the screwdriver to engage the teeth of the adjuster; To adjust the brake you need to turn the adjuster as shown to expand the shoes; Turn the adjuster until it is no longer possible to move the disc then turn it backwards until the disc is just free. It is OK to hear it rubbing but it should not be tight. Turn the disc a full revolution to make sure there are no tight spots. When complete refit the rubber bung and the roadwheel. Go around and repeat the process at the other wheel but when finished do not lower the wheel to the ground. To adjust the hand brake cable; Go inside the car and use a trim tool or screwdriver to prize the back of the gear stick gaiter upward; The front of the gaiter is hooked under the lower facia so just pull it back to disengage and lift it up over the gearstick but do not try to remove it. Use the phillips screwdriver to remove the 2 screws from the front of the centre console; Fold down the back of the console and remove the cup holders to reveal the 2 fixing bolts. Use a 10mm socket and extension to remove the bolts then lift off the console. Note - it will be necessary to reach under and unplug the wire from the cigar lighter. Now with the console removed the handbrake and cable is very easy to see; Use the 2 X 10mm spanners to unlock the adjusting nut. Hold the bottom nut still and undo the top nut anti clockwise. This photo is from a 4.3 but it is the same; Now turn the bottom nut clockwise to tension the cable. The specification calls for 7 - 9 clicks with a pulling force of 20kgs (44 lbs) - thats a heavy pull! The main thing is not to over adjust it so you should still feel some free play at the bottom of the lever travel. Keep adjusting and testing little by little. If you start at the bottom and pull, you should not feel any resistance until about the third click. As a check go back to the jacked up wheel and check that it turns freely. Replace all of the trim in the reverse order remembering to re-connect that cigar lighter. Lower the remaining wheel and don't forget to finally tighten the road wheel nuts to the specified torque of 76 ft/lbs. As a final check take the vehicle to an incline where it would normally just roll and check to see that it does so in both directions. For those that might prefer the handbrake to be on with just one click don't forget that if it binds it will get hot and cause a lot of damage so whatever happens make sure you do these checks to make sure it is free.
  14. 1 point
    Wow 440miles i do 500miles a week. Got my aygo in October last year with 22000miles on it now it has 33500 miles. It doesn't use any oil like my previous aygo did. I had to top it up every outher week. I just put on its first set of front tyres.
  15. 1 point
    Thought I would check in nearly three years later on 122k all running swimmingly!
  16. 1 point
    Aygo Black 10'......Now on 120k and still running sweet as a nut.......
  17. 1 point
    Father in laws 06' 97k little or no servicing ever and still going strong (clutch could do with a replacment though!)
  18. 1 point
    2011 petrol Aygo now on 138,000 and still going strong!! A few rattles starting so have just bought Auris so that my Teens will inherit the Aygo.
  19. 1 point
    Regular oil changes to the chain in good condition. Good oil condition prolongs the engine life, plus chain from wear.
  20. 1 point
    Illuminated mirror switch: David has worked his magic on this one. With some serious Googling, I sourced two of the correctly sized illuminated mirror switches (one for each of us), and David fixed the complicated wiring. It's technologically beyond me but it looks fantastic! Thanks, David, for your perseverance. It looks and operates like it was fitted at the factory. Chris
  21. 1 point
    Hi I have just had and fixed a problem with the drivers side air con button on a corolla vers 2.2d4d sr with the same air con panel, your fault may be the same. Symtom Button was looser on the drivers side but not so loose that it seeming broken, temp setting coould be adjusted down but not up. Cause the microswitch on a circuit board behind the button has moved away just a little and is too far away to be activated, cause is some screws loosening or the pastic they screw into is brocken. Circuit board was NOT held firm just in one small corner and that did not work. Solution was to remove heater panel from fascia, disassemble and retighten screws. One plastic pillar securing circuit board had broken on mine in the same corner as the switch so I improvised a tensioner screw by carefully inserting a self tapping screw into the back case of the unit that pressed the board forward, alternatives could have been inserting some thick packing or putting some material in the hollow parts of the plastic buttons to make they travel further. Self tapper was at least adjustable Its failry easy to remove the heating panel 1 remove trim strips with vents either side starting at the top by inserting a blade into short top edge and levering back into car (see videos for changing radio) , take care with left trim as it has an extra metal clip on mine that would not let go , take care with cigarette lighter wiring as we;; 2 remove 2 screws holding heater panel and pull out from the bottom of panel (it swings upwand then detachs from radio) 3 detach 2 heater cables pressing lugs to release 4 disassemble rear case of heater panel (4 screws) 5 detach ribbon cable if you have too (take care to pull the clip along then hinge up) you might get away with leaving it attached 6 inspect 5 or 6 screws holding back of cicuit board, particularly check the screws by the switch that has failed. if any are lose, tighten if your lucky or bodge some packing of button or inside black case my final solution was a carefully posistioned self tapper through black case to press on unsed part of circuit board and held it in place) 7 reverse to assemble, took about 20 mins TAKE CARE WITH ALL SCREWS AS THE PLASTICS ARE WEAK
  22. 1 point
    Hi, I had the same problem. Poor start with cold day, engine sometimes only puff-puff and stall (blue-white smoke). In last three years I changed glow plugs, battery, overhaul fuel pump, bought new injectors, bought fuel warmer etc. But everything without effect. Now I found where is problem. If you have a small SCV valve on fuel pump (called Compact SCV) try this home made diagnostic: warm up SCV valve before starting in cold day using hot water or hot airgun (about 80°C). When engine start for first time, piston in SCV valve is seized (rather chill diminishes tolerance and piston seized). Denso prepare new version of SCV valve, please wait few days, I prepare complete guide with pictures, order numbers and Denso service manual. P.S. I´m sorry for my english, because I´m from Czech Republic :-) Edit: 6.2.2013 - Here is part number: new one - 0422626020 (replace old 042260L030) After replace SCV, you must make Supply Pump Initialization Procedure - see enclosed Denso Repair Manual, Repair Section/2.Diagnostic Overview/2-113 to 2-115. I make this process with Toyota IT II (Intelligent Tester), I think that this way is better than connecting terminals TC and CG.. After replacing SCV during calibration were two random errors. Both of these errors concerned Air Mass sensor and Intake Air Temperature. I erased all this errors three times during calibration. Now is everything OK. Torque for SCV bolts is 6,9Nm first, 10,8Nm second. DENSO CR SERVICE MANUAL.pdf
  23. 1 point
    70k mile service 15/12/12 Full Service £ Covered by my Service Plan 4 x Yokohama Winter Tyres fitted, £185.. seemed cheap as I was quoted more, but didn't complain :) No issues identified When I picked the car up the technician told me my Aygo only had a very small amount of oil left in it... slightly concerned as I have put over a litre in since 65k miles.. so it has used a lot since the 60k service. I was advised that there are no leaks, but as I do a lot of miles and the car is approaching high mileage it will use more oil. I will really be keeping an eye on this to see how the next 10k go.. Just returned from a 900 mile trip to Germany with no faults. and a very smooth drive. Winter tyres are amazing in the rain, not as good as the continental eco contact 3's in the dry.. slightly more road noise. Current Mileage 71800
  24. 1 point
    60k mile Full service 15/09/12 Full Service £ Covered by my Service Plan Front discs and pads replaced £195 Rev counter fitted £115 New number plates with GB logo, (mine where cracked from stones and looked shabby £0 The car is driving great, no signs of any issues. I love getting it back from the service fully valeted too :) like a new car again. Current Mileage 61500
  25. 1 point
    Update no. 2 I did it. Yes, it is four screws and a bunch of clips. Also, you have to take out and disconnect the panel with window regulator switches. Warning light has to be taken out and disconnected. Door handle has to be "twisted out" once the panel is being taken off. Driver memory switch has to stay in place, but make sure you disconnect it before you fully remove the panel. Arm rest stays in place, no need for removal. Once you undo the screws, start unclipping from the bottom, or bottom rear corner. This worked for me fine. For this, use a cloth over a thin metal tool, or use a wooden flat spoon, this worked perfect for me. Once removed, you have to disconnect the wing mirror wire loom, and to take out the plastic fitting through which the wire loom passes. Once you remove this you will be able to see the nuts holding the wing mirror. You will need some deep "keys" to unscrew these. Also, when removing the panel, watch for little "fabric" washers between the plastic clips and the door. They either stay in the clip or stick to the door. I guess these are not so crucial, and it is not dramatic if you loose some, but as they are there, they must have some purpose. Also, plastic window frame is just clipped to the rest of the door panel. By holding down the plastic window frame, pull out the door panel. It clips out nicely. When replacing, follow this procedure in reverse, and make double sure that you clip in all the clips. Thats it for now. Now I am going onto replacing just the mirror indicator assy, I will post soon... This should be easier.
  26. 1 point
    Over 48,200 miles now on my 56-plate 2007 Aygo (ex-demo model, had 1,800 on it when I took it on) :) lovely trouble-free motoring, until now! Gear changes were smooth as you like until I drove home after a shift earlier this week... now it's really tricky to engage low gears, especially first, at low speeds. Still smoothish between higher gears when at speed. Taking it to a local garage, fearful the gearbox will need reconditioning. Should this happen to a 5-year-old car on 48k miles? All servicing done with Mr T, the 50k/5yr one is due in a couple of months.
  27. 1 point
    October 30K Mile Main Dealer service went fine.. no issues January 40K Mile Main Dealer service went fine.. no issues March - 1st MOT Main Dealer - Front tyres done 26000 miles, replaced with Continental Eco Contact 3's - new front headlamp bulb Today (30 March) - EXHAUST FELL OFF @ 47000 miles.. the back box has rotted away from the rest of the exhaust completely. Toyota have quoted 255.48 for another (+ 3 yr Warranty on Box), but Longlife in Amesbury are fitting a full cat back system (All Stainless Steel) next Tuesday for £279 all in, with a LIFETIME WARRANTY. Stainless steel should last forever, and i didn't want to payout for another from Toyota if i am going to be replacing it in 18 months time. Current Mileage 47000
  28. 1 point
    Took them over a week to find this one. A small hole was found in one of the injectors. All ok now. £275. Sadly, I have been enticed by the 0% finance on Toyota cars atm. I'm replacing the Aygo with a desil Yarris which has now been ordered. I've loved my little Aygo, and have been pleased to share it's 6 year story with you. In all that time it's only broken down (unable to move) twice. Once, for a faulty wiring loom, and the other, a dead battery at about 4 years.Now coming up to 158,000 miles. Just another couple of weeks and it'll be gone. Might start a thread for the Yarris and share that experience on here.
  29. 1 point
    My car is 6 years old now. I have no service plan. I take it in to Octagon Toyota near Bracknell, which is a main dealer. I have taken it there every time. Now at 154,500 . Smell of diesel fumes coming into the car if I set the air intake to outside rather than re-circulate. In the garage at the moment being looked at. As usual, they gave me a temporary car without me even asking. Also re: the tyres probelm with Kwik Fit as mentioned above - Kwik Fit sent a man round to my house to check the garage hadn't tried to sell me something I didn't need. They contacted me, which I was impressed with. He told me it is their policy to advise tyre change when it gets to 3mm. As you may know, the legal limit is 1.6mm . Toyota DID NOT advise me to change tyres yet. Make up your own minds.
  30. 1 point
    63k, no problems just fuel and service. Ragged, thrashed and comes back for more.
  31. 1 point
    152,000 2 new front tyres replaced at Toyota for £130. I also went to Kwik Fit Easthampstead Road, Bracknell who lied and told me I needed 4 new tyres. The bloke even went round with the little tread measuring device and holding it in such a way trying to convince me.LIAR ! Toyota had already told me the back tyres were fine. I walked out and went back to Toyota for the job. I remember seeing Kwik Fit on Watchdog some time ago about this little trick. Won't go back there again. Can't stand people trying to rip me off. The dealership may be a little more expensive, but I don't feel I've ever been lied to. In fact, I am treated very well there I feel. (Octagon Toyota Bracknell).
  32. 1 point
    I have hankooks and have so far done 35k on them with a fair few traffic light races and they still have 3 mm on them
  33. 1 point
    My 2006 diesel Aygo has done an average of 63mpg between 23k and 44k miles. 5,300 miles per year, probably more rural than urban driving. Now at 44k (5 and a half years old) it requires a replacement fuel injector at a cost (Toyota dealer repair) which wipes out any prior savings on fuel: http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=109541&st=0&p=1164357entry1164357
  34. 1 point
    Why does the timing CHAIN need to be replaced? Can you hear it rattling? If you don't it should still be fine. My previous car was a Nissan 100NX and that developed a chain-rattle at allmost 190.000mi. In my maintenance-schedule for the Aygo the timing chain isn't even mentioned... The Belt driving the A/C Waterpump and Alternator isn't even checked for the first 60.000mi!
  35. 1 point
    Mine is currently at 65,000 miles and still going :)
  36. 1 point
    127,500 Miles. 2 more new front tyres. The noise that has been occuring as mentioned above has stopped with the fitting of the 2 new front tyres, so I guess that's what the problem was before. Should really have changed them a couple of thousand miles away looking at the tread ! Do tyres make a funny noise when they are worn down ? All running well.
  37. 1 point
    Still very happy with my Aygo. Now over 4 years old. 120,000 mile service showed up 2 distorted rear tyres with plenty of tread - so replaced at the garages recommendation. They say it was possible to get a blow out because of this.They couldn't tell me why the tyres had done this. I had not noticed anything. Getting a bit of a noise now from the front. Garage says it's due to age of car and mileage. Something to do with some rubber thing drying out.They could replace it - but told me not neccesary as nothing is leaking. They greased it - but made no difference. It's like a quiet rubbing sound you can only hear when driving slowly in the middle of the night with windows open.Gets slower and faster with the movement of the car.The faster you go, the less you can hear it. As I've been told it's safe, it doesn't bother me. 122,000 Miles. Got stick at a garage 3 nights ago. Had filled up, got back in, and car wouldn't start. Guessed the battery had died, as other electrical stuff was working, but not properly (electric windows very slow). AA confirmed this (arrived to my aid within 30 mins), replaced battery for £68, and all has been fine since. So battery died at 122,000. Mates keep telling me it's time to buy a new car, but the reliability of this Toyota I have been very pleased with so far. Roll on the next 100,000
  38. 1 point
    it's very simple: measure the blades from an end to another and buy any standard blades you like...
  39. 1 point
    Whine was indeed the wheel bearing. £330. Whine sorted - Still making a noise as if there is a label stuck to the tyre at slow speeds. To be looked at next week along with the 100,000 service.
  40. 1 point
    Sept 07 and 30,000 miles on it Runs like a dream and looks like new
  41. 1 point
    Had my Blue for just under a year and done 17860 really fun miles so far. Traded down from a Suzuki Swift 1.5 GLX that was doing the same mileage and costing a hell of a lot more each month! Hoping to get some nice alloys for it in December and a few subtle mods next year.
  42. 1 point
    Ive covered 25000 miles On my aygo 07 black mostly m5 south commute to work 64 miles per day, complete new clutch assembly fitted 20000 miles. 2 clutch springs broken tyres still plenty of life in them swap them around every 10000 miles well pleased with running costs.
  43. 1 point
    oK Lads. Now at 65,000 and all is well. As I said earlier - I have diesil. Have recently been driving very carefully on the speed side of things - and I am getting 72 - 78 MPG ! I'm not buls *****. On the last tank, I got to 544 miles, and the final segment on the fuel indicator WAS STILL NOT FLASHING".I nrekon if I'd have taken the risk of running out of fuel, I would have got close to 600, but I bottled it LOL. Was trying to keep my speed around 55 - 60. I did think about getting a new petrol model, as my two years thing is up tomorrow (Monday), but I'm pretty sure the "petrol" lads on here are not getting anything near that, so come Monday, I will be buying outright for a little under 3k.
  44. 1 point
    Have you thought of replacing with the petrol model? Our dealer told us that the savings on fuel consumption compared to the petrol didn't warrant them keeping the diesel model going.
  45. 1 point
    60,000 so far ! Diesel model.Just coming up to 2 years old.No problems at all.LOVE THE CAR.My car before this was a Land Rover Defender, so the running costs of the Aygo to me are peanuts. - Had intended replacing with the same, but Toyota is no longer doing Diesel, so looks like I'm gonna hang onto this one.I'm aware Citroen still do the diesel, but I really don't like the brand, and have been very impressed with my treatment by Toyota. Apart from servicing, all I've had to buy is 4 new tyres.The front ones wore out far quicker than the rear. Front tyres replaced at about 40,000, Back at 59,000.Brake pads down now to about 60%. Have also replaces both headlight bulbs - which are a real pain to change. Very awkward positioning of spring holders.
  46. 1 point
    Wish i was driving 24/7, that would be excellent, although the car might start to smell a bit..lol Its my job mainly I live in one city and work in another so do about 100miles for work per day, plus my job can involve travelling anywhere in the country a few times a month and I prefer driving otherwise people expect me to do work on the train..lol and I just love driving anywhere for no reason as well. Think I maybe should be a taxi driver
  47. 1 point
    25000miles and its 1year old exactly ;) Nothing broken, nothing fallen off. No rattle, squeeks or anything. Getting 500miles per tank going up and down the m4 every day.
  48. 1 point
    32000 miles in 2 years, no problems at all. Have averaged 59mpg over the lifetime of the Aygo so far.
  49. 1 point
    56,000miles everybody drives it, front drivers seatcover looks rubbish (you notice the crap steel seat base now under the foam, in fact very similar to the 1980s Toyota forklift also at work) and the glovebox has n't shut for the last six months. Does 400miles on a tank.
  50. 1 point
    16k in 6months? TAXXXIII!!! ;) Mine will be going to Southern Germany again in May :D

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