balkema

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About balkema

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  • Toyota Model
    1994 Camry 4 cyl
  1. balkema

    Camry Stalling

    The problem, at a stop car stalls when warm. The car is a 1994 Camry 4 cyl engine, auto tranny, 104,000miles (live in New England where it cold). When cold the car is perfect, no problems. When the car stalls you can generally get it started right away, reving it up will keep it going, but it will stall again. 1) I bought new plugs--they come with a standard gap of 0.044" , can't get the engine started, flooded it several times. Regap the plugs down to 0.020, car runs. Still will stall at stop signs. The bigger the gap the worse it runs. 2) pull a plug with the wire attached (put a dummy back in the engine) nice long spark 1/8" when grounded to the engine. So I wonder if when hot there is a problem with the ignition. 2) pull the cap off of the distributer check the coil before and after a hairdryer application to internal coil--resistance within spec. The gap coil resistance within spec. Try to jam a feeler gage down to test the gap, not really successful. This has to be some type of heat sensitive component. 3) Replace the distributor cap and rotor--regap the plugs to 0.040" runs fine--next morning after warm up starts stalling at every stop. 4) Wonder if it is voltage related--battery voltage ~12 volts, rev up goes to 14+. At idle with all accesories on (defroster, heater max, lights etc) will stall at idle--runs really rough, turn everything off seems better. Huh? Idle speed is about 780RPM. 5) check spec's on TPS--has normal resistance 6) as somebody else said, it seems like it'll run all day on the highway at 65mph 7) I tried a hair dryer on the igniter module and I didn't see any difference. 8) Check engine light never comes on, but checking the codes, when I do the jumper between TE and E1 (I can't remember exactly the pins) the check engine light (Mal) blinks onece a second, but the overdrive "off" light blinks out a 6 and a 1 this makes no sense to me at all. 9) As one gentleman mentioned, some of these problems may have something to do with a lock-up selenoid in the auto tranny. So I watch the tach and it looks like there is a pretty tight coupling between engine and tranny at idle which unlocks when the speed hits about 20mph or second gear 10) I also tried to get the fuel filter out to replace it, but for the life of me I couldn't get the bottom flare fitting off, short of cutting the tube and re-flaring it--but it really doesn't sound like a fuel starve problem as I can drive it 65mph in second gear on Rt. 128 without any cut-out. I just don't know. The biggest diagnostic is that when the plugs are gapped tight the situation is much better, when standard gap it runs like **&^% when warm.