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Daveyonthemove last won the day on October 10 2011

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    Auris SR180

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  1. In Warm/mild weather the engine ticks over at normal RPM (900-950) but in colder weather it ticks over faster at around 1200 RPM in order to warm up quicker.
  2. Can I offer a little bit of perspective on oil. Think of it like blood, its the lubricant that keeps the vital organ (engine) running smoothly, and it prefers a specific type, even if they do all look the same to the naked eye. If you were having a blood transfusion, you'd get the correct blood type for your body. Oil is the same. Don't buy the cheapest you find and expect the same economy, smoothness and life cycle, buy the best oil you can afford and maintain the engine properly. Saving pennies on cars is often a false economy when the parts fail and you end up buying replacement parts sooner, or fixing other components that fail as a result.
  3. Well Done Frosch, I'm glad you found one. Nice colour too :)
  4. I had that email too but haven't heard of them or looked at their site, so I have one question... Is TOC selling our contact details to companies without our permission?
  5. From memory, I think it is #20. Yes, do the above and you should be fine. I always try to time it with a long journey where I am not in a rush to get to my destination and can expect steady traffic. As I live away during the week, I usually do it on a Sunday before I drive 100 miles down country ready for work. I would imagine a 20-30 mile steady run would be good enough to get the engine up to temp and running efficiently and start returning good MPG.
  6. I just did my last ever drive in my SR180, and achieved one of my best MPG figures driving from Bristol to my home town 120 miles away. I reset the Average MPG readout prior to setting off, drove across town and hit the motorway. Set Cruise control to 1900 rpm (65mph-ish) and let it drive all the way home. Weather was good with little/no wind most of the way and dry conditions with temp of 11c. Traffic was light and there was no hold ups for the entire journey. Highest reading was 51.3mpg, but by the time I stopped and parked up it had dropped to 49.6mpg. That was with 2 adults and a child in the car with a boot full of bags! I did chuck half a bottle of Millers into my last tank full just to use it up, but I doubt it made that much difference really. So if the 'thirsty' 2.2 can get 50mpg over 100+ miles, the 2.0 should manage it if driven economically (boringly?).
  7. I am on my last tank of fuel in my Auris, and had half a bottle of millers left over, so I chucked it all in the tank which had about 50 litres in. I did notice a smell when parked up, and the car seems to be pulling very well today despite being quite warm for this time of year. No improvement in economy, but i've not really been trying to get the fuel to last. The next person to own my car will have a very clean engine and injection system.
  8. Being a woman isn't a handicap! If you can lift the bonnet to check the oil and top up screen wash, you should be able to lift a cover off the fuse box (top right corner) and locate a fuse to remove it. The MAF isn't as tricky as it sounds, you probably need the right torx head attachment with not many people have. Esso fuel should be fine, but it won't hurt to try another brand if you can. On a previous car I found BP diesel to have a negative effect on how my car drove, sounded and the MPG. Shell always brought it back to life. Worth a try and probably very little price difference to worry about. If it feels better on Shell, get a loyalty card so you can get money off vouchers every quarter. If you'r doing 15k a year, the vouchers should add up quickly.
  9. I run mine quite high at 40psi. Grip seems to be fine and the harder tyres seem to help with economy. That said, in this weather with greasy roads and ice, 32psi is probably better if you 'enjoy' driving the car. I drive for economy so 40psi works for my driving style.
  10. Cheers guys. This will most likely be my final post on here as my last ever Toyota Journey will be on Saturday the 5th, before Insurance transfers across to my replacement motor that I viewed and bought today. 2013 will be spent in a V plate Vauxhall Astra SXI 1.6 16v. Its sports seats, fog lights, 100bhp and lotus tuned chassis will keep me happy (ha ha) whilst watching the price at the pump spin around slightly slower thanks to the fuel coming out of the green pumps. In fairness I got a good deal with £250 knocked of the asking price and a brand new MOT certificate done this afternoon prior to collection. The car is clean inside and out with lower than expected mileage (114,000) and came with half a tank of fuel. Here's to an optimistic 2013! Cheers
  11. Auris Girl, I would suspect there is a problem somewhere. Firstly, I try to remember that colder days will make the car feel faster, but also guzzle fuel quicker. This happens to most cars, so if it has been cold around your area lately, that is a contributing factor. Secondly, what brand of fuel do you use? There are multiple threads about supermarkets fuels being the same, or cheaper and all fuel is from the same hole in the ground, but I assure you that some fuels do make the engine run better. Personally I stick to Shell. Mostly fuel saver, but occasionally Vpower. You will notice a difference if you try Vpower over at least one tank full, and both of these fuels use additives and detergent packs to remove build ups. BP and Texaco also offer similar fuels. The free and easy solutions are: 1) Check air filter. If the car can't breathe, it will struggle just like us humans. Blow it out or clean with a hoover if it's obviously clogged up. 2) Reset the ECU. There is a fuse under the bonnet for the ECU which will keep all other settings on memory, but reset the ECU. I can't recall from memory which fuse it is, but your handbook will be able to help. There are 3 common methods. 1 is to remove the fuse and then pump the brake peddle a few times in order to discharge any electrical current that could retain memory. replace fuse and drive economically and hope it learns this style of driving. 2, remove fuse and leave for 30+ mins. This does the same as the 1st method but obviously takes longer. 3, remove negative battery terminal for 20 mins. This will reset all radio presets and dash memory like time and date,so only do this if you are prepared to re-set it all. The next tip is to get some electrical contact spray and very carefully spray the MAF element to clean it up. It will dissolve on its own so give it a few thorough blasts with drying time in between. DO NOT touch it, they are fragile and expensive. It's not worth the risk of handling it when there is no need. If none of that works, then get the dealer to check it over. Could be an over active injector or some other problem that would need their attention. Bear in mind that I do most of the above once every 4 months and my SR180 has returned 43mpg over a 2 year period, and has seen low 50's and high 40's on motorway runs by sitting at 1900rpm (I don't worry about the speed).
  12. Thanks Guys. I'll be sad to see it go, but I have to be sensible and get on my feet again. Who know's what 2013 will bring, and hopefully this time next year I'll be back in a decent car again, or at least planning to buy one.
  13. Just wanted to say a quick 'Happy new year' before I head into the new year and part with my Auris. The SR180 has been ultra reliable over the last 2 years. Its not let me down, been quick, torquey and comfortable. Aside from the (often) poor MPG, and sub standard radio, I can't really find anything to complain about, so it's going to be a shame to see it go, but finances dictate my future in 2013 and my next car will be a cheap motor costing below £800. Good luck and best wishes to everyone on the forum, and I hope you cars prove as reliable and enjoyable as mine. When your cruising past a beat up banger on the motorway, think of me ;0) Dave
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