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Ben Davy

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Ben Davy last won the day on July 18 2014

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  1. Thanks for the reply. Good on the tick over. I thought it was too low but glad that's normal. I have had the battery replaced. It's a higher spec one. Just got back now, so will see if I have any power in the morning. Parked so if I have any issues I can jump start it.
  2. Hi guys, not been on for a while. Still loving my IQ. i have a couple questions. What is the idle speed for the 1.33 IQ? Mine seems to tick over at approx 500/600 rpm which seems pretty low for such a small engine. I have had a new battery about 3 weeks ago, and the last few days it's kept going flat. I haven't left anything on. Had it running over a journey of about 13 miles, try to start it just clicks away but then recovers slightly and then does manage to start the engine. If run again the cycle continues again. My gut feeling is I probably have a duff battery, as it's a Jap car they are bullet proof and I doubt it's the alternator (I also hope so also). It is possible something else is draining it? Just wondering what your thoughts are? nice one Ben
  3. Thanks for the replies. I figured it should light up when it first starts but I had the car before her and it always did the test and then the red light went out straight after and the blue one when the engine was warm. Now they both stay on until the engine is warm and go out together. So there is something different about it to what it used to do.
  4. Hi everyone, my girlfriend has a 2005 Yaris 1.3 and when starting from cold both blue and red temperature lights are on and then go out at the same time. It only did it a couple of times at first but now it does it every time its started. The red light never comes on again once its warm. I have checked the coolant level and its fine. I was hoping someone could shed some light on it for me. I have done a lot of searching on it but just cant find an answer. Im sure we arent the only people its happened to. Thanks, Ben
  5. Ben Davy


    Surprised if it's a knackered flywheel, as said just a disc of metal with teeth around the outer edge aren't they!
  6. Ben Davy

    Iq3 Lowering

    Thanks Craig, that's awesome info.
  7. Ben Davy

    Iq3 Lowering

    Has anyone a eBay link for the correct springs for the 1.33? I read that you need the diesel ones, so I don't want to get the wrong ones. Looking at getting a set for mine, will finish it off nice.
  8. The fact that it peels off says to me it's been resprayed at some point and not very well. Maybe an incorrect primer. Even if there is a stone chip a jet wash won't make it peel off if it's good paint. I had some extra plasticiser put in some arches I had on an old car and you could practically bend them in half and the paint stuck fast. If the prep is good there shouldn't be any issue and I'm sure the factory doesn't do it incorrectly, so my money would say they have been sprayed at some point. When I machine polish customers cars you have to go easy on bumpers as the plastic/paint heats up a lot quicker than on metal and can bubble. A good job shouldn't have any issues with a pressure washer and anything above point blank is ok. You can stand right in front of one after a few inches and it's just mist.unfortunately it's going to need a respray to sort that, and be prepped correctly.
  9. Well it seems it's made no difference, which I'm not overly surprised on a low performance engine. It made a noticeable difference on my S2000 and on my Kawasaki Ninja. Both in performance and mpg. The cleaning properties are a good selling point on the fuel though. I think with the urban driving it doesn't make a difference but over a long constant journey I'm sure it would. I've seen dyno proven results of the old Optimax before it came V Power, it also has more friction properties now which the engine has to do less work to do the same work. I think it worked out about £1.50+ a fill up, so for piece of mind it's worth it. It's all I use in both my Ninja and 100cc two stroke as it prevents detonation and on something that gets a good 100mpg it makes no difference in running costs.
  10. Ben Davy

    Eggs Are Gone

    Thanks I found some. The ones in your link shine red so aren't suitable for indicator bulbs. I think the stop/tail bulbs in the iQ are normal bulbs.
  11. As a starting point id at least swap the fronts to the back.
  12. I'm noticing about 3mpg difference between V Power and standard Shell fuel. I haven't worked out if it's worth it. I think it's approx 7/8p a litre more for V Power. If that mpg figure is correct then I would say it's not worth it for economy. I'm only judging on nearly half a tank, will see how many miles I get to the tank of standard compared to V Power and will post. With V Power from full to the light I got about 280 miles to 26 litres which I think worked out at approx 50mpg. So now I'm on the standard will see what I get. My driving doesn't really vary so it should be quite a good measure of the fuel give or take a few miles.
  13. Ah yes, that proves a very good point. Will get on the ol bay of e and see what I can find one for.
  14. I thought as much. Thanks. Will get one ordered then asap.
  15. I've done it. I took all the crap out of it. I take it that it should be white?!
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