Registered Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Duggerz last won the day on June 6

Duggerz had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

80 Excellent

About Duggerz

  • Rank
    Advanced Club Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
  • Toyota Model
    Avensis D4D 126 T2
  • Toyota Year
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi, It's called the impeller. You can replace only the internals of the turbo, called the CHRA, and it's much easier than taking the whole thing off. You take off the inlet side and leave the turbo body on. Melett here in the UK sell replacements, and I expect there's a company where you are. Regards Ian Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
  2. 18 bar is about 270psi and if that is the pressure on the high side that would be high and could do with reducing for best efficiency. There should be a sticker on the underside of your bonnet that specifies the pressures. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
  3. If it's the same specification, and by that I mean more than just the viscosity, as your engine requires then no issue, if not, you're taking a risk you might regret. From what I can see it looks like this isn't the correct oil, but you'd need to check using your registration or in your manual to be sure. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
  4. Modern oils are formulated to resist sludging but yes you should be changing the oil per the manufacturers recommendations using the recommended grade. Checking the oil is s different matter. Low oil level is still the most common cause of catastrophic engine failure. Put simply, by the time the oil pressure light is on, it's too late. If you have an oil level indicator these are a help but aren't infallible. If you have a dipstick, take a few minutes a week, if you've driven the car, or each month if you don't drive many miles, and check all the fluid levels, tyres, wipers etc. It's part of the training for any advanced driving qualification. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
  5. I had an XJ6 that would use oil when filled with Semi but not full synthetic, Whether the same would be true for the Auris I don't know, but I've been using full in my Avensis for 8 years and over 100k miles and it's never used a drop as far as I know. The difference in price isn't great either. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
  6. To answer your specific question, the dealer will normally just flash the latest firmware, which you can get as I mentioned. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
  7. I recommend a copy of Techstream, with that and a mongoose cable you can find out all kinds of information including what version of firmware you're running. I avoided using it to do the update though, and had the dealer do it. If you want to go that route, you can download the firmware from toyota-tech.eu. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
  8. Yes, at this stage if the HG fails, the car is scrap. Mine is on 233k miles and although it's a 2.0 and failure is much rarer, at some point it will go, and so will the car, straight to the scrap. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
  9. These engines are known for interstellar mileages unless it is one of the faulty ones with oil burning, which results in head gasket failure and probable destruction of the block. This issue is most likely to be the injector seals which are also a known issue. Toyota modified the design to make them more durable. One clue is a hissing sound from inside the cam cover when engine running and oil cap off. Watch out for oil spray if you do that though.... You can buy a new set of seals from T for about 20 quid, getting the injectors out is another issue entirely, and personally I'd leave it to a specialist, and I do mean a specialist. These injectors get properly wedged in. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
  10. Hello Jeff, Which model and year do you have, and it's it petrol or diesel? Regards Ian Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
  11. Hi Alan, I'm still not clear on what exactly is happening. Is the behaviour you describe while the starter is engaged? Once running dues the car run ok? Smoke? Misfiring when cold? When you say getting up to idle speed is this on the starter or once the engine has fired? Without a very detailed and accurate description of what's happening is very difficult to envisage what the issue might be Ian
  12. Welcome to the club, What happens when you just try to start the car normally, without the added bells and whistles? Ian
  13. Hi Ian, I don't know about aftermarket parts, but if this happened to me I'd be tempted to source LEDs from fleabay and solder them on the existing board, assuming I could get that plastic cover off. Assuming that is that there are just dead LEDs and the whole board hasn't gone pop. Regards, Ian
  14. Facelift model had 1AD engine and it's auto tensioning on a sprung idler pulley. If that's not doing its job I think replacement is the only option. Ian
  15. Hi sauter, 06 is on the change for the 2.0 diesel engine, do you know which one yours has? Ian