Duggerz

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Duggerz last won the day on June 6 2019

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About Duggerz

  • Rank
    Advanced Club Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Ian
  • Toyota Model
    Avensis D4D 126 T2
  • Toyota Year
    2006
  • Location
    Rutland

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  1. Hello RR, I do recall vaguely an issue with the belt on the Avensis that gave rise to squeal and the fix was a modified belt and tensioner. Was the tensioner changed with the belt? If not you may find that the tension is insufficient and gives rise to the squeal. Belt dressing and such are a temporary amelioration at best. Someone else here may have the details of the tsb to hand re the belt squeal. Regards Ian Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
  2. Hi, you should not be getting grease on the pistons, it will react with any seals or dust covers it comes into contact with, which is probably why you are having problems. At this stage I would suggest you get a seal kit and some brake cleaner. Remove the caliper (clamp the flexible hose to reduce leakage) and remove the pistons, remove the seals, clean pistons and caliper with brake cleaner and assemble using brake fluid to lubricate.. If the bore of the caliper is oxidised you can clean up with fine and I mean fine abrasive. Hope this helps. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
  3. https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/182612-avensis-d4d-2adftv-cold-starting/ Sorry, issue with Tapatalk.... Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
  4. Check this thread out https://www.toyotaownersclub.c...ensis-D4D-2ADFTV-Cold-Starting Ian Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
  5. It's worth running some abrasive over the flanges and checking for run out with a DTI though. And while you're at it, check the run out on the new discs which I think you can do by spinning on the nuts without the wheel maybe with some washers just to nip them to the flanges. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
  6. Hello barchetta, You've replaced the discs and pads and yet you described continued vibration under braking only which would tend to suggest it's not a wheel balance issue. If you discount the new discs being warped, that leaves you with a problem with one or both drive flanges. These flanges can accumulate festerage which might cause the symptom you described, and before the new discs were fitted they should have been cleaned thoroughly and there should be no lumps or bumps on the mating surface. If they are clean and flat, then I suggest getting a DTI on them and checking that the run-out is within tolerance. I'm assuming the wheel bearings and steering joints are all good. Hope this helps. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
  7. Hi, It's called the impeller. You can replace only the internals of the turbo, called the CHRA, and it's much easier than taking the whole thing off. You take off the inlet side and leave the turbo body on. Melett here in the UK sell replacements, and I expect there's a company where you are. Regards Ian Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
  8. 18 bar is about 270psi and if that is the pressure on the high side that would be high and could do with reducing for best efficiency. There should be a sticker on the underside of your bonnet that specifies the pressures. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
  9. If it's the same specification, and by that I mean more than just the viscosity, as your engine requires then no issue, if not, you're taking a risk you might regret. From what I can see it looks like this isn't the correct oil, but you'd need to check using your registration or in your manual to be sure. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
  10. Modern oils are formulated to resist sludging but yes you should be changing the oil per the manufacturers recommendations using the recommended grade. Checking the oil is s different matter. Low oil level is still the most common cause of catastrophic engine failure. Put simply, by the time the oil pressure light is on, it's too late. If you have an oil level indicator these are a help but aren't infallible. If you have a dipstick, take a few minutes a week, if you've driven the car, or each month if you don't drive many miles, and check all the fluid levels, tyres, wipers etc. It's part of the training for any advanced driving qualification. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
  11. I had an XJ6 that would use oil when filled with Semi but not full synthetic, Whether the same would be true for the Auris I don't know, but I've been using full in my Avensis for 8 years and over 100k miles and it's never used a drop as far as I know. The difference in price isn't great either. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
  12. To answer your specific question, the dealer will normally just flash the latest firmware, which you can get as I mentioned. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
  13. I recommend a copy of Techstream, with that and a mongoose cable you can find out all kinds of information including what version of firmware you're running. I avoided using it to do the update though, and had the dealer do it. If you want to go that route, you can download the firmware from toyota-tech.eu. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
  14. Yes, at this stage if the HG fails, the car is scrap. Mine is on 233k miles and although it's a 2.0 and failure is much rarer, at some point it will go, and so will the car, straight to the scrap. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
  15. These engines are known for interstellar mileages unless it is one of the faulty ones with oil burning, which results in head gasket failure and probable destruction of the block. This issue is most likely to be the injector seals which are also a known issue. Toyota modified the design to make them more durable. One clue is a hissing sound from inside the cam cover when engine running and oil cap off. Watch out for oil spray if you do that though.... You can buy a new set of seals from T for about 20 quid, getting the injectors out is another issue entirely, and personally I'd leave it to a specialist, and I do mean a specialist. These injectors get properly wedged in. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk