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gjnorthall last won the day on October 12 2018

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About gjnorthall

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  1. The internal bearings rarely fail but it’s quite common for the freewheel pulley assembly to fail. There are dozens of replacement pulleys available on EBay etc. Check that any bearing type noise isn’t emanating from pulley. This is easily changed in situ.
  2. You'll also need to disconnect the drop link so that the suspension can be lowered sufficiently to withdraw the spring.
  3. As already suggested - ensure that the tang of the spring is seated properly in it's recess. Ensure that any rubber insulating shims are fitted to both sides of the car. To check vehicle height: - check when the fuel level is low - check all tyre pressures and check tyres are in matching pairs and that the tread either side of an axle are roughly the same. - roll the car a short distance to a stop on a flat surface - don't get into the vehicle. Put the vehicle in gear and don't use the handbrake. (the action of getting out of the car or applying brakes can affect how the suspension settles) - check the distance from the wheel arch to the centre of the hub. Shock absorbers have resistance in compression and expansion and differences in shock absorber action (eg wear or damage) on each side can affect how the suspension comes to rest. This can result in height difference either side of the vehicle. To eliminate any differences resulting from twisted suspension mounting bushes - slacken off the retaining bolts and tighten when the car is sitting squarely on it's wheels.
  4. There are non -Toyota repair kits available eg https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Master-Cylinder-Repair-Kit-for-TOYOTA-RAV-4-2000-2005-M1769/311766197216?fits=Model%3ARAV+4&hash=item4896b6a3e0:g:6W4AAOxyUrZS9jLY However, I'd be cautious after 15 years of use - the cylinder bore may be stepped or scored and fitting a repair kit may not give a long term solution. New non-Toyota cylinders are available from around £70. However getting hold of an auto version cylinder may be a bit tricky - the manual version can be fitted but the port for the fluid feed to the clutch master cylinder would need to be blanked.
  5. If there are stored codes, then there is a good probability that the light has been disabled. This would often be done because the stored fault was difficult or expensive to remedy!! It would be interesting to know which codes have been stored. The current MOT rules would record a fail if "the MIL light is inoperative or indicating a fault" - though it's possible that a tester may not notice that the MIL is inoperative during the check routine when the ignition is switched on. It's far less likely that the tester would miss an illuminated MIL during the MOT test. There is no independent fuse for the MIL but there are a myriad of ways to disable the light - obviously check the bulb first
  6. gjnorthall

    Obd code

    OBD codes can be generic or manufacturer specific. What are you using to read the codes? If it's a hand held reader - does it simply generate the fault codes or does it give fault description. Some meters cannot display narrative for a manufacturers code because it isn't in the database. Disconnect the battery for a while to clear the fault codes if you are unable to do so from the code reader.
  7. The output of a lambda cycles between about 0.1V and 0.9V around once per second. It's basically a case of looking at the output trace on an oscilloscope or a hand held digital display. A life expired Lambda will cycle significantly less than once / second or the output trace will be quite flat. Often the Lambdas on this engine suffer from heater failure well before the sensor element is life expired.
  8. The usual problem on this engine with variable or high / low idle speed is: Early 4.2 (square front fog-lamps) - dirty idle control valve Later 4.2 (round - fog-lamps) - dirty throttle valve / body or sticky throttle linkage. (this model doesn't have an idle control valve) The idle speed is controlled by the ECU. Do not disturb the adjusting screw on the throttle valve.
  9. If the fault keeps reappearing then it’s either a cat converter issue or a lambda issue. On a well maintained car - a cat issue is rare but the response from a sensor deteriorates with age. The ECU does a comparison routine on the sensors and initially records a preliminary code. If the fault repeats then a fault code is flagged. It might therefore take some time for a low efficiency code to reappear. It’s often wrongly concluded that the sensors are doing their stuff and it’s a cat fault. A life expired sensor won’t throw up a code which again leads to wrong conclusions.
  10. You don't mention if the check engine light is also illuminated? If so, it's a quirk on many Toyotas that certain faults, such as faulty Lambdas will trigger the VSC light. There is obviously no relationship - it's just that the check engine signal affects the VSC processor. If the only fault indicated is low catalyst efficiency then a brisk drive will often allow the engine light to be extinguished and stay extinguished. It can also occur if the bottom sensor gets soaked driving in heavy rain.
  11. What a rude little oink. There's no wrong questions to ask on an owners forum and certainly posters don't deserve to be preached at. Don't suppose JacobRAV4 will be posting again anytime soon?
  12. There are many removable winches available which can be mounted on a standard tow ball. The removable tow ball is attached to a mount bolted to the front chassis leg. On the basis that the front tow eye mount is designed to be capable of towing the vehicle weight - a decent winch installation should be capable of handling a similar weight. Talk to someone like Watling Engineering about your requirements. I have no real knowledge of removable winches apart from the fact that they're heavy and difficult to manhandle!
  13. The fact is that the you state that the car generally runs as well as it has ever done. This would tend to rule out several potential problems. All cars are subject to wear and tear and if you removed the injectors for testing on any car with a fair mileage - the injectors would not meet original spec. Dripping injectors can cause hot starting problems and the injector testing outfit should report back on exactly what the issue is with the injectors. Unless there's some supporting evidence, there's little justification in the expense of removing and rig testing injectors in the first place. The problem you describe has come up many times on this forum and in many cases has been been associated with battery, starter motor, cables or bad / dirty connections. Although it may sound OK - the starter motor needs to exceed a certain speed before the engine will start and often performance is restored when the motor cools down. It's quite easy to measure the cranking speed, current draw and motor terminal voltage with the engine cold and hot in order to confirm / rule out the starter system. It's worth bottoming out the starter system before embarking on other potentially expensive options.
  14. Which RAV4? Hand or electric unit? Do you intend to use the car on public roads? There are off the shelf solutions for the Land Cruiser but as far as I know - you’d need to fabricate a bracket and mounting plate for a Rav. Owners have used a Suzuki SJ bumper and adapted to fit. In order to be legal you’d also need to fit a winch bumper to protect pedestrians in the event of an impact. Your insurance company may not be happy (ie would impose conditions and cost) and some companies may decline to insure.
  15. Fuel range may be a red herring - the algorithm is based on historical consumption and would be affected if the battery was disconnected. Unless they are well versed in updating software and diagnostics, I think that you would struggle with the independent garages in this case. Do you know by any chance, the version number of the software that was last installed?