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gjnorthall

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Everything posted by gjnorthall

  1. The exhaust on this car consists of a front pipe which is flanged to the centre section - the centre section is then flanged to the back box. The centre section consists of a large silencer and an aftercat. If using aftermarket parts to replace the silencer - the exhaust pipe is cut downstream of the aftercat - the new section is already swaged to fit over the old pipe. No welding is involved. This is an example of the new silencer section. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOYOTA-RAV-4-2-0-VVT-i-2005-2008-SUV-Exhaust-Central-Silencer/173695377376?fits=Model%3ARAV+4&hash=item28710d1fe0:g:td0AAOSwhu9cF22r If there was a requirement, it's easy to join exhaust pipes of different diameters by using an adaptor piece with clamps or welding or expanding the end of the smaller diameter to suit the ID of the larger diameter.
  2. Just check that the sway bar (anti roll bar) is fitted correctly - the bar should bend downwards at the ends ie the attachment point for the drop links should be lower than the centreline of the bar. You say that the brake pipe is rubbing the bar - do you possibly mean brake hose?
  3. The colour of the smoke will narrow down possible issues. Is the smoke blue (and often smells "oily"), white or black / dark grey? How many miles on the clock and when was the air filter and fuel filter last replaced?
  4. You don’t mention if the noise improves as the engine warms up. The clue is damp or wet weather which causes auxiliary belts to squeal. If squirting water on to the belt silences it, then a replacement belt is the solution. Once a belt starts to squeal - it’s surface becomes hard and polished so a replacement is the only long term solution.
  5. Warranty claims on DPF’s are difficult. If blockage was due to driving regime then this would not be covered. An unrelated failure which resulted in blockage may well be covered but it’s not straightforward. DPF’s have a finite life - you don’t mention the mileage of the car. I’m not clear as to what the first dealer has attempted to do. They may just have attempted a manual regeneration. There is a need for a systematic approach and the first thing would be to check out the pressure differential measurement to ascertain that the output (which relates to the degree of blockage) is correct. The control software for regeneration would also be checked. Thereafter it’s possible to carry out a controlled forced regeneration. Ultimately it may not be possible to clean the DPF and the unit would need replacement - however there is a comprehensive diagnostic routine that needs to be completed before reaching this conclusion. In some cases it might not be possible to return a DPF to an as-new condition. Hopefully your Toyota dealer will be able to regenerate the unit and it would then be important to understand the root cause of the failure so that action could be taken to minimise the chance of a recurrence. In some situations a DPF equipped car simply isn’t a good choice.
  6. There is a risk when buying an engine of this era that it suffers from the oil burning / head gasket issue. Sometimes problematic engines end up in breakers yards.
  7. Cars which start fine when cold - fail to start when hot but start OK when left for a while often suffer from heat soak of the starter motor. Engine heat causes the starter motor to increase in temperature - this increases the resistance of the windings - the current load increases and the car becomes difficult to start. If the motor is left to cool for a while - the car starts fine. Proprietary heat covers are available but at least one forum member solved the problem by wrapping the body of the starter motor with exhaust heat wrap.
  8. Cars which start fine when cold - fail to start when hot but start OK when left for a while often suffer from heat soak of the starter motor. Engine heat causes the starter motor to increase in temperature - this increases the resistance of the windings - the current load increases and the car becomes difficult to start. If the motor is left to cool for a while - the car starts fine. Proprietary heat covers are available but at least one forum member solved the problem by wrapping the body of the starter motor with exhaust heat wrap.
  9. When the clutch is pressed and the car is in gear (car stationary or moving slowly) the clutch friction plate is stationary or rotating very slowly whilst the flywheel and pressure plate are rotating at engine speed.There is no torsional force on the DMF or friction plate so the springs within these units can rattle - it’s quite common. As the clutch is released - the springs are compressed so the rattling stops. I wouldn’t be too concerned if the noise remains consistent.
  10. I infact read the full thread and I'm responding to the general issue of erroneously putting petrol in a diesel tank. A couple of posters were concerned about the after effects of petrol contamination.
  11. Years ago drivers would add a little petrol to a tank of diesel to minimise waxing in cold weather! However this would be ill advised on modern diesels. Diesel lubricates the fuel pump and injector shuttles and the solvent action of petrol reduces lubrication. The fuel pump is easily damaged without lubrication and shards of metal will be dispersed through the system. It's reckoned that putting up to 5% petrol into diesel won't usually do long term harm. Therefore if you realise when you've dispensed a couple of litres of petrol - you might be able to save the day by then brimming the tank with diesel. If you've actually filled up with petrol, then there's no option but to drain - both switching on the ignition (if there is a primary pump) or starting the engine will cause fairly rapid damage. Unfortunately many drivers don't realise their mistake until the car subsequently grinds to a halt. Fuel companies don't help prevent errors - diesel and petrol nozzles are often in a mixed array on the pump.
  12. Yes standing facing the front of the car - front right hand side. I wouldn't be overly concerned - all the gaskets I've seen have been 3 notches or less and I've always gone for the maximum thickness (there's only 0.05 mm between each thickness).
  13. You can see a rectangular cutout on the lip of the block on the drawing. Unfortunately the head overlaps the cutout so it's difficult to see the gasket. You can count the notches using a thin screwdriver or push a piece of plasticine with a coating of oil into the recess so that you get an impression of the gasket edge. Any good garage should be able to do the work and you can save 50% on parts cost by using good branded parts such as head bolts. The gasket however needs to be genuine Toyota. The relevant sections of the Toyota workshop manual can be downloaded for a couple of pounds and this will help with the correct torques etc. The most important thing is to minimise the amount of metal skimmed off the head. You'll find what looks to be aluminium foil (part of the head gasket) embedded on the surface of the head and the key thing is to skim the head so that this is removed and the cutter has touched all parts of the head. Machining also gives the correct surface finish for optimum gasket seal. Usually around 7 thou is sufficient to ensure that the head is flat and unmarked.
  14. You won't see mayonaise or a leak into the exhaust gases - the usual failure is between a cylinder and a waterway so gases from a cylinder pressurise the cooling system and coolant is expelled from the expansion bottle - there isn't a path between coolant and lubrication system. Toyota's cutoff on oil consumption was 0.5 litre or more in 620 miles. This is far higher than experienced on the majority of Rav's of this generation but can be used as a yardstick as you monitor oil consumption. Hopefully oil consumption will be OK in which case only work on the head will be required. This can be done without engine removal - albeit with some difficulty! The photo shows a failed gasket in situ. You can see the thickness guide bottom right. This gasket is a No3 - it has three grooves and was eventually replaced with a No5 gasket.
  15. The description in your previous post also suggests turbo seal failure. It may be that the turbo is life expired but often turbo seals fail for other reasons. As part of any turbo work, it's important to check that the oil return from the turbo is clear - any restriction will pressurise the turbo seals and cause oil to leak into the exhaust. The oil feed pipe should also be checked for restriction and preferably replaced. Air filter must be in good condition and check that none of the hoses on the induction system are collapsed or kinked. Beware of very cheap new turbos on offer - some Chinese units are of dubious quality. In the past I've been very happy with reconditioned turbos from Turbo Active (sold on an exchange basis). There are obviously many other reputable turbo companies in the UK. It's also possible to fit a new cartridge into the old turbo but given the age and mileage - there may be other damage to the turbo.
  16. This engine doesn't have a PCV valve - it's just a vent pipe that connects between the rocker box and inlet manifold system. In the first instance confirm that the crankcase is running under vacuum by running the engine without the filler cap and the opening covered with a cloth - you should be able to feel if the crankcase is pressurised or under vacuum. Does the exhaust blow out a lot of smoke when accelerating after a period of overrun?
  17. Many of these engines can be repaired, particularly if tackled early. The problem with gasket failure is that the head can be track marked at the failure point. The head is not designed to be machined - so the normal remedy is to replace the cylinder head. However one root cause of the failure is excessive oil consumption which leads to carbon buildup and subsequently carbon stamping which will cause gasket failure. Before doing anything - you need to ascertain that this is definitely a head gasket failure and not something else. The definitive test is the so called sniff test of the atmosphere in the expansion bottle which can detect the presence of combustion gasses. If it's proved to be a head gasket failure - the next question is whether the engine uses a significant amount of oil. If it does then simply replacing the head + gasket is not a permanent solution - the gasket will fail again at some point. If oil consumption is low then it is possible to replace the gasket without replacing the head. The head is skimmed by the absolute minimum amount and a a thicker head gasket used. The genuine Toyota gasket is available in several thicknesses and the thickness of the existing gasket can be determined without dismantling. Obviously if the gasket fitted originally is already at the maximum thickness then the method described isn't possible but this isn't usually the case. If oil consumption is high then gasket replacement will only be successful if the pistons + rings are also replaced in order to remedy oil consumption. Block sealer is unlikely to work on the type of failure in question but more importantly, it can result in other damage. Unfortunately none of the posters indicate mileage covered, symptoms, oil consumption and whether Toyota have a record of head gasket work or an engine change on the particular vehicle. If done properly the engine work will be a long term solution but at a significant cost. One would need to balance the cost against the value of the car. I successfully repaired several of these engines in the past on Ravs worth £6K+ but the repair of a 13 year old car may not be economically viable! Unfortunately older Ravs are often disposed of because of head gasket failure - the failure may well have been present for some time before the car was sold.
  18. In the scheme of things - after 10 years motoring this was a fairly minor failure. Unfortunately, for most manufacturers, the cost of some spares is totally disproportionate to the manufacturing cost. In this instance, a repair might well have been possible, and since the EDU isn't a common failure item - a second hand unit may well have been worth risking. For electronic components, failure is more often related to age, cycles and special causes rather than mileage.
  19. There have been reports of moisture getting into the large white connector (it's the connector at the bottom) behind the door pillar kick panel - drivers side. The solution is to disconnect the connector, clean the pins and sockets with switch cleaner and refit. With this fault - the engine light will often illuminate after a while since the ECU might not get a speed signal. If the car has been driven through deep water - the connector to the speed sensor on top of the gearbox can be affected by moisture. Again, remove the connector and clean the pins and sockets with switch cleaner.
  20. Try the likes of Breakeryard, 247parts or Partsgateway. These companies will circulate your want details around dozens of breakers nationally. You might need to do some homework first on exactly which models and month / year your particular tailgate fitted. You may also find a rear bumper section at the same time and I suspect you'll also need a replacement stiffener bar.
  21. See also http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota Currently this website covers Toyotas up to 2014
  22. The car is well outside the time period of problematic Rav4 diesels. Nevertheless - head gaskets do fail infrequently on all cars often as a result of other issues (faulty thermostat, faulty electric fan, hose becoming detached etc etc). It may well be the reason for the previous owner selling the car. Although it's more than likely to be a head gasket failure - it would be necessary to conduct a "sniff test" to be conclusive. I suspect that Toyota will view the car as being too far outside the warranty period to offer any sort of goodwill contribution. This would be a head gasket job rather than a part engine replacement and I'd guess the cost would be of the same order as what you'd loose selling or part exchanging the car. In view of the uncertainties and unknowns - many owners would prefer to sell the car.
  23. I'm guessing - but the testing would usually involve working through the failure list of the causes of P1271. It sounds like they reached a point where they found no signal from the ECD when the correct input was applied. Bulletin may refer to a technical services bulletin from Toyota detailing the investigation and remedy of a fault.
  24. P1271 is a fault in the fuel pressure discharge circuit. One of the potential issues is no signal from the EDU to the ECU and from your description - it sounds like your Toyota dealer has traced the fault to the EDU. A dealer will simply quote you a replacement from the Toyota parts list so it's not a case of being ripped off. However before contemplating this - speak to ECU Repairs. The unit may well be repairable at a fraction of new cost. It would be a case of posting the EDU and it would be returned in a couple of days - so a job for your mechanic to remove and install - there's no programming involved. If it can't be fixed there's just a modest handling charge
  25. £2500 is a very good price if you don't use it. Unless it's mint and cared for properly in storage - it's not going to appreciate by much.
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