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  1. It all depends how your car is driven if low mileage short journeys it will have carbon build up though at 105k I would only imagine it would benefit with a good clean. Mine is around 56k so yours is near enough double the mileage if your confident give it ago! Let me know how you get on...
  2. How do!? I registered a long time ago, when I owned an Auris however now sold that and purchased a Yaris MK2 58 reg for the Mrs so I am back on again. To the point after doing extensive research on google I really struggled to find a how to guide for cleaning the EGR Valve on the Yaris D4D 1.4 engine. I am not a mechanic, but will attempt a DIY where possible simply to avoid labour costs. With the other half doing very short trips to school, shopping etc I had a concern the diesel engine will cause issues, although I use it one a week & give the italian tune up once warmed up, and the previous owner being a gentle driver I had a concern I would soon face an issue so rather then leaving it so late I thought its best practice to be pro-active. + I wanted to inspect the EGR Valve at 56k miles. (Yes I know diesels are not ideal for short journeys but its too good of an engine) also no issues with running prior so you could say if its not broken don't fix it. The first gen 1.4 D4D EGR service/replace seems to be fairly straight forward however to do but the MK2 in simple terms, safe to say is a challenge. The tools you need are: 10,12, & 14 mm sockets - Ratchet & spanners, Toyota Coolant, long extension, universal flexible attachment for your ratchet, EGR cleaner spray or petrol etc. Old toothbrush a cloth perhaps some gloves, a flat head screw driver & some patience! Time: 2-3 hours. Start by removing the engine plastic cover. Undo the nuts on the EGR Cooler (golden object) 12/14mm if I remember correctly Remove the 10mm bolt holding the dipstick in place you will later need to move this around to be flexible. You will soon realise there is a 10mm bolt which is an absolute b*stard to get at! why because its behind the cooler, a ratchet or spanner just wont move due to clearance. So you now have to be able to move the alternator forward to gain access that nut. This is where it gets interesting - you now need to undo the top alternator bracket and the remaining bolts/nuts which secure the wiring harness once done. You would then expect the alternator to have slight movement wrong! you can try with a lever behind it to move it forward but it wont move as there is a 14mm bolt under the alternator also the belt is causing tension if you move it towards you. In order to gain access to the lower 14mm alternator bolt you need to remove the 10mm bolts holding the coolant bottle in place & tug it out of the way to the right. Or if you are due a coolant flush anyway just remove the rubber hoses and drain the coolant, before removing the bottle to gain access. I didn't bother with a coolant flush! Next if you have universal flexible attachment for your ratchet and a long extension attach a 14mm try to undo the lower alternator bolt, once cracked loose. push the alternator back and remove the belt from it, once the belt is removed you can then bring the alternator towards you, in order to gain access to that 10mm bolt on the EGR valve/cooler. Remove EGR Valve a small amount of coolant may come out if it, inspect or clean and replace as necessary. At this point you may want to wear gloves as the carbon build up is horrid stuff. Using a toothbrush spray the EGR and the cooler let it soak before brushing out all the soot. A screwdriver can also help. *NOTE DO NOT - spray excessive amount of spray into the engine ports as it could cause you a further problem. Clean the ports well. Re-attach everything I didn't replace the Gaskets either cleaned and re-installed no signs of leaks, inspect the robber hoses for vacuum leaks and re-attach. Put the alternator belt back on, and bolt everything backup, tension the alternator sensibly. Top the coolant up slightly & restart it may run lumpy for a couple of second if you used excessive EGR cleaner respray but you should then be set :) Unfortunately I don't have pictures as my hands were too dirty though if I had an other attempt I would ask an assistant to take pictures. My EGR I personally believe was due a clean, there was not excessive build up but there was enough soot built up blocking the ports, & to be honest I couldn't comment if the engine is any more responsive or not as I don't use it as my daily driver one thing for sure is it picks up speed rather well. Hope the read above may support anybody else.
  3. All diesel engines can be noisey espcially when cold is why proper petrol heads hate them because they sound like a tractor. Theres more advantages in owning a diesel than not for example better resale cost, torque driveability makes it effortless and of course fuel consumption. Providing your oil level is full dont worry about the diesel knockinh noise but learn to tell the difference beetween diesel knock and a rattle because these engines have a timing chain if the oil is ran low you can get rattle which means the damage is done.
  4. Pump brake.pedal a few times till pressure builds up.. Handbrake is self adjusting keep applying it, if nothing bleed the brakes and check the pistons are not leaking fluid check brake fluid.
  5. Cheers.. It became obvious when the EGR is clogged. No engine lights or warnings Flat spot around 2000rpm around 2300rpm & all of a sudden would boost hard rather than smoothly Excessive soot on acceleration Inspection of EGR valve revealed a clogged EGR valve This was after using Shell fuel & mixed motorway & local miles as well as occasionaly driven hard when safe to do so to prevent build up. Seems like a design fault or a common problem if ignored will cause head gasket failure due to carbon build up on the pistons. Maintenance is the key.
  6. H11 - BULB http://www.hids-direct.co.uk/h11-canbus-pro-hid-conversion-35w-kit/
  7. Sold my Auris a week ago, have to say one of the most reliable car I ever owned. Other than the usual service items oil & filters brake disc & pads didnt cost me a penny. Cleaned the EGR Valve twice in 20k miles as it clogged first at 59k then 72k sold it at 79k. Was kind of worried with the new model coming out the value would drop & mileage getting higher found a low mileage civic only done 48k better resale cost for future. MPG Local Summer - 38-39 Winter - 35-36 Motorway - 45-50 possible £40 would get 220 miles Mods: HID kit as the standard lighting was poor. Brakes: annoying squeal,& steering wheel clonk Handling: 5/5 never once had understeer or felt bodyroll 3 MOT straight pass Interior spacious but can be bland compared to other rivals IMO. New car is a civic 2.2 I-CDTI hope it holds up as well as the Auris, better toys Sat nav, bluetooth, cruise control, climate control, etc & seems more refined & fairly decent mid range power. Currently averaging 39MPG local thats winter. Would like to say on a final note this forum has been helpful & supportive, Thanks for all your responses in the past. Take it easy!
  8. On a serious note Sell it and get a 535D BMW :) - no need for anything in standard form Everybody on here can only recommend the usual intercooler, exhaust system and a remap/chip which you already aware of.
  9. Not a known issue - every car can vary all depends on the mileage, driving style and pot holes in the road wont help. Likely to be the bushes, or suspension spring or even the shock absorber. Get it on a ramp to be sure?
  10. I dont know how true this is but at the time of installation I was recommended to put the ballasts somewhere they would cool of as they can become very hot? is the reason why I put them in a place where there is abit of air to cool them also the engine plastic trim covers hide them anyway& not had any issues since installation.
  11. You have to remove the surrounding trim first 10mm bolt if I remember correctly and then use a screw driver to unclip the carpet from its seating position.
  12. No drilling with mine, the ballasts are secured with the straight bracket it came with and a 10mm nut you can bend the bracket in shape so you can put it across the bar above the radiator. Use cable ties to secure it and prevent it from shaking around with engine vibration. No interfearnce with the radio either. Driver side secured next to the washer bottle, and passenger side secured next to the fuse box. Well worth the cost and effort & safety wise its much improved, I passed the MOT with no problem this year.
  13. Starting issues: Earth cable from battery poor Glow plugs Fuel filter Use a Better quality fuel (shell) etc Air filter Battery's in key immobiliser Battery charge Low oil or needs a service EGR valve Blocked diesel particulate filter Suction control valve blocked There's many variables but above are self diagnostics before going down the expensive route of paying a garage to check it.
  14. AURISTR01


    Try the Cooper ZEON CS6 - Highly recommend them, good wear on them and brilliant grip in wet and dry. http://www.camskill.co.uk/m62b0s291p108377/Cooper_Tyres_Car_Cooper_CS6_Zeon_Cooper_CS_6_-_205_55_R16_91V_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_C_Wet_Grip%3A_C_NoiseClass%3A_2_Noise%3A_71dB
  15. AURISTR01


    Just had the recall done for the window switch at Rochdale brilliant service. I didnt expect them to wash and vac the car and provide a full safety report, for a 79,000 mileage car every box was ticked green meaning its in good condition apart from 2 advisory on the front tyres although they are at 4mm tread, it gives me peace of mind knowing the MOT is coming up & that its ready for winter.
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