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Dmitriy

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    Avensis 1.8L VVT-i (1ZZ-FE)

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  1. Are we talking about parts like #43030/43040 at the pictures attached requiring replacement? Just thinking if it makes sense to replace those bearings alone w/o replacing the whole CV joints (assuming those bearings are significantly cheaper than inner CV joint assemblies of course).
  2. Can that inner CV joint be taken out of the gearbox w/o taking the latter apart? I think I have even come across a procedure how to do that and except for some peculiarities (particularly when inserting a new inner CV joint into the gearbox in order to not break something inside) it didn't look like something that an ordinary garage wouldn't be able to do...
  3. Hi Cml24 and toyota diag tech 1, Thanks for your replies. Well if the disc + wheel pair is unbalanced I would expect the vibration to always be there regardless if I accelerate or not, right? Still cleaning the mating surfaces is never bad as it might remove residual vibration. I suspect CV joints as the shafts can easily be rotated using fingers in about 30 degree gap or even more, which seems to be too loose. Also there's often heavy wobbling and shaking when the car starts moving. The mileage is just 125K though. I don't recall having anything like that with my previous 1998 Avensis, which did over 230K during 12 years. So..... which CV joints are the best ones at the market these days?
  4. Hi All, While accelerating on my 2000 Toyota Avensis 1.8 VVTi I always start experiencing noticeable vibration of the whole car body and its steering wheel as soon as the speed exceeds 60mph, peaking out at around 70mph. As the speed reaches 80mph the vibration frequency becomes so high that it is indistinguishable from vibration caused by the road itself, and so is no longer a nuisance. As soon as I drop the accelerator pedal in the 60-80mph range the vibration goes away (the wheels have been balanced twice anyway). As soon as I press the pedal again (while still in the 60-80mph range) vibration resumes. Any thoughts? Many thanks in advance, Dmitriy
  5. Hi All, Before I replaced bad cylinder head cover gasket some oil leaked through it and accumulated in all 4 injector bays. Wiping it away without removing injectors is quite challenging. Can I remove the manifold together with all 4 injectors as a single unit to avoid disturbing the O-rings at the top of injectors? What should I be especially careful with when removing and re-seating them back and in particular what is the easiest way of discharging fuel pressure beforehand? (The official manual recommends disconnecting fuel hose from the pump at the tank and running the engine until it stops - is there not an easier way e.g. carefully disconnect fuel hose somewhere under the bonnet and collect the fuel that comes out?) Many thanks, Dmitriy
  6. Hi Black Knight, Thanks for your reply. Any particular types/makes of suitable rubber sealants for this job? Having only a simple spanner set I'll have to tighten all the cover bolts up to the hand tight momentum hoping it's not critical to apply the one mentioned in the Repair Manual... D.
  7. By the way do you know how many mpg the lean burn one adds? My 1ZZ-FE eats 38-40mpg, which is about the same I had with 7A-FE. Are there any other benefits of the lean burn one?
  8. Hi All, Could anyone please suggest an approximate price of a new partial 1ZZ-FE engine assembly? I think it's part number 19000-0D080: it doesn't have things like gearbox, alternator etc. I'm getting weird quotes around EUR13K while the short block is just circa GBP1300. How much is the head assembly by the way and what else is there that is so precious to cost the difference? Many thanks in advance, Dmitriy
  9. Hi daavisz, Avensis Mk1 11/1997-06/2000 have engine 4A-FE (99hp 1.6L non-VVTi) Avensis Mk1 08/2000-02/2003 have engine 3ZZ-FE (109hp 1.6L VVTi) You could google images of 4A-FE and 3ZZ-FE and just compare them with the engine in that car. I think the learn burn one would be 4A-FE out of these two if not both. I know for sure 7A-FE (1.8L non-VVTi) that went into Mk1 11/97-06/00 is lean burn as I used to have one of these. HTH, Dmitriy
  10. Hi All, Are there any particular precautions when replacing a 1ZZ-FE cylinder head cover gasket (shown attached)? Does it necessarily have to be done by a qualified mechanic? From looking at the cover it seems that I just need to remove the coils from the spark plugs, undo all the bolts and remove the cover, replace the gasket and then assemble everything back - is that all? Thanks in advance, Dmitriy
  11. Yep that was it: many thanks! I entirely forgot about it as I never use it. Troubleshooting rule No. 1: always check simple things first ) Cheers, D.
  12. Hi All, 3 electric windows in my Avensis Mk1 (all except for the driver's one) have stopped working all of a sudden without any particular reason and do not longer move whatever switch I use, the one in the driver's door or the ones in those respective doors. What could have failed? I've checked ALL fuses in the fusebox near the passenger's seat and none of them is blown. There's a Power Relay shown on the electric windows' diagram in my Haynes manual. Whereabouts is that relay and how do I test it? (assuming it might be the reason) Thanks in advance, Dmitriy
  13. OK the root cause turned out to be that the driver's airbag cable was simply not connected to the airbag, so no surprise the warning light was always on. It's off now. A funny side finding: the clockspring/ribbon/squib (or whatever is the right name of this part) installed apparently came from a different car model as it only had airbag and horn circuits, so no surprise the steering wheel mounted stereo remote control didn't work either. It actually took me quite a while to figure out how this clockspring can pass the signals of 6 different circuits via only 2 pins in the connector before I realised it's just the wrong part. Everything works with the right one in place now. Many thanks for everyone's feedback. Focusing on the clockspring was the very right thing to do.
  14. Hi Igor, Hi James, Many thanks for your valuable comments and the pdf: you both turned out to be right. I also eventually suspected issues with air in the system and have just got it properly recharged at a local Kwik-Fit for £49 (a 45-minute job done automatically using Robinair CoolTech Coolant Exchanger) as could not find how to vacuum it on my own. AC runs OK now, and it was great to learn that my AC compressor is not faulty. For those interested in how AC works I found this video useful, partly because it shows the internals of the AC compressor (in fact there are plenty of others): Just one question left now: it then follows that the recharge kits like Ez-Chill R-134a by Interdynamics sold at Halfords etc are only useful when not too much air entered the system? Cheers, Dmitriy
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