Phil_1985

good to hear! This was my next route - if the grinding into 2nd gear resulted in some not so regular 'shock' to the drivetrain has it managed to loosen a pipe.

This sounds a bit similar to when my EGR Valve started to give up - it was intermittent power (as if there was no turbo) - but then the EML eventually came on and it was permanent. You could try registering for https://www.toyota-tech.eu/ to view the official diagnosis steps for intermittent power or see if there are any technical service bulletins about this issue. If you go down this route, I would also recommend being able to have on hand the toyota techstream software to make diagnosis easier (some buy this on ebay, some may know a toyota technician on a personal level who cou

pasting the below which i posted in a different thread in 2017. Years = age of car at the time of claim My opinion? Go for it. From memory... Alternator failure at 85,000 miles / 8 years - covered Clutch making a faint rattling noise if you release the clutch pedal, in neutral when the car is idling 58,000 / 5 years - covered Air con compressor making a faint rattle like the noise of crickets (insect) when engine idling - AC worked perfectly though - 80,000 / 7 years - covered Drivers door seal leaking water - covered Thermostat housing o-ring - 76

Try your local Toyota dealer or Parts King Kyle. This was ten years ago for me now, but I believe the part had to come from Japan. (As I had also ordered the steering wheel at the time too, it may have been that - I can't remember) @furtula it's been a few years since I've had my Auris now, but I had the armrest - from memory it was definitely better - but I don't remember much else sorry

I don't understand - that's exactly what I've posted. Please refer to my post.

OEM armrest - 08471-12220-B0 off topic, but OEM "thicker rimmed steering wheel" - PZ439-E9171-01 ordered both via PartsKing - who is on this forum and works at a Toyota dealer.

I haven't had my 180 for a while now (My mum unfortunately wrote it off lol ... nothing major and no injuries - just wasn't economical to repair)... - I mentioned it to Toyota a few times (I had an extended warranty with them at the time) and they couldn't find a fault. It was always serviced at Toyota and had new diesel filters at the correct intervals etc but this didn't make a difference. - I used to clean the EGR myself every 10k and this didn't make a difference. - I tried various brands of diesel incl "v power" type fuels - The car had the headgasket issue and had a r

sorry - I clearly didn't read your post properly I haven't fully woken up yet! But yes if it happens only when the cruise control is on - then I had this exact issue as well. As it only happened when "one would lift off the accelerator" to maintain a speed if one wasn't using cruise control - e.g going down a long decline, i just left it.

Hi Kyle, Is this when using cruise control by any chance? When I had my 180 it would do something similar while using cruise control at 50+ mph when going down an incline - it would sometimes start "stuttering" and the RPM's would deviate approx +/- 100rpm. I never got to the bottom of it, and it only happened when using cruise control so left it.

I'd definitely recommend going to https://www.toyota-tech.eu/ and viewing the official service manual for the engine - there should be a diagnosis flow chart for those ECU malfunction codes. (You do need to pay to access them though)

If this indeed is the reg number then it's cloned. This reg belongs to a RAV4

pasting the below which i posted in a different thread in 2017. Years = age of car at the time of claim My opinion? Go for it. From memory... Alternator failure at 85,000 miles / 8 years - covered Clutch making a rattling noise at 58,000 / 5 years - covered Air con compressor making a rattle when engine idling at 80,000 / 7 years - covered Drivers door seal leaking water - covered Thermostat housing o-ring - 76,000 - 7 years - covered Intermediate steering shaft due to knocking on steering - 72,000 - 7 years - covered DPF sensor pipes blocked

If it's your first diesel it's something you'll learn and adapt to very quickly. The first thought which comes into my head is the rolling slowly at a busy roundabout waiting for the gap to put your foot down to join the flow - if you're rolling quite slowly in second and put your foot down to pull out - there will be a delay which in the moment, will feel like forever and potentially be dangerous if caught out unexpectedly. When you experience this once, you'll not want a repeat and will quickly adjust! With the 180 I'd say it's quite easy to adapt to as it's so smooth.

I agree - the engine is very smooth and quiet. It has bags of torque - but it's so smooth and you won't necessarily 'feel' it if you plant your right foot down (this is either a good or bad thing - depending on your preference)

Hey Kyle, Have you test drove one yet? - The car doesn't feel as quick / nimble as the figures suggest - for a diesel, the torque curve is smooth. You won't get the same level of "throw you back into the seat" feeling like you do with VW group diesels. It's a personal preference thing I think. - Partsking (on this forum) sells a good tuning kit (or did - I haven't owned my Auris for a few years now) - I had this - and it definitely increases hp and torque - and you can feel it! - Remapping a Toyota diesel ECU is not easy. Anythings possible, but not many places offer remaps