Phil_1985

pasting the below which i posted in a different thread in 2017. Years = age of car at the time of claim My opinion? Go for it. From memory... Alternator failure at 85,000 miles / 8 years - covered Clutch making a rattling noise at 58,000 / 5 years - covered Air con compressor making a rattle when engine idling at 80,000 / 7 years - covered Drivers door seal leaking water - covered Thermostat housing o-ring - 76,000 - 7 years - covered Intermediate steering shaft due to knocking on steering - 72,000 - 7 years - covered DPF sensor pipes blocked - 55,000miles / 5 years - covered I never had an issue with rejected claims and as you can see a lot weren't even failures they were rattles/knocking. Do however note - that for a lot of the above issues Toyota had released technical service bulletins (I think this was the term...) for them which 'authenticated' the issues which could be a reason why my dealer had no issues claiming.

If it's your first diesel it's something you'll learn and adapt to very quickly. The first thought which comes into my head is the rolling slowly at a busy roundabout waiting for the gap to put your foot down to join the flow - if you're rolling quite slowly in second and put your foot down to pull out - there will be a delay which in the moment, will feel like forever and potentially be dangerous if caught out unexpectedly. When you experience this once, you'll not want a repeat and will quickly adjust! With the 180 I'd say it's quite easy to adapt to as it's so smooth.

I agree - the engine is very smooth and quiet. It has bags of torque - but it's so smooth and you won't necessarily 'feel' it if you plant your right foot down (this is either a good or bad thing - depending on your preference)

Hey Kyle, Have you test drove one yet? - The car doesn't feel as quick / nimble as the figures suggest - for a diesel, the torque curve is smooth. You won't get the same level of "throw you back into the seat" feeling like you do with VW group diesels. It's a personal preference thing I think. - Partsking (on this forum) sells a good tuning kit (or did - I haven't owned my Auris for a few years now) - I had this - and it definitely increases hp and torque - and you can feel it! - Remapping a Toyota diesel ECU is not easy. Anythings possible, but not many places offer remaps for the 180. (Unsure if things have changed in recent years) - Being brutal - mainstream Toyota's aren't known to be exciting to drive. In my opinion, the 180 falls into this same category. It's ok - but for comparison - the following cars which I drove while I had the Auris 180 were more engaging and more fun to drive - 2010 Megane 1.5dCi / 2012 Ford S-Max 2.0TDCI (no joke - a 7 seater was more engaging to drive than my auris!) - As above - the 180 has independent rear suspension vs the torsion beam on the standard models. My guess is that they did this to ensure the same level of stability / safety as the car is of higher power vs standard models. Personally, I do not think they did this to improve the 'fun factor' of driving it. - By the time I sold my Auris, I was getting 29mpg in the winter and 33mpg in the summer. The 180 is not known for it's fuel efficiency - do not expect good fuel economy from this car. - If you do get one, clean the EGR at least every 10k - and don't expect to see any improvement in mpg when you do! (I didn't) If you want to know more, let me know! Phil

Hi Kyle, It would be good to know why you're after the SR180 - I can advise / give my point of view based on this. (E.g - it's performance? etc) Thanks

Are there any fault codes stored? - Where was the ECU re-mapped? can you provide further detail? - Where was the DPF changed? Was the DPNR regen history reset on the ECU? - When the EGR was cleaned was the inlet manifold cleaned too? Any history on the car - service history, maintenance history - how many miles has it done?

- Is the tyre wear even on all the tyres? (If the suspension is out of alignment this will increase fuel consumption) - When was the vehicle last serviced and where? It might be worth resetting the ECU by disconnecting the battery so that the car can 'learn' your driving style.

I have a 2007 2.2 180 and sadly I would not recommend the engine.. It was replaced due to the head gasket issue a few years ago (can't remember what year) I'm now on 124,000 miles (the car - not the engines) and have suffered from heavy white/grey? smoke from the exhaust for the last 30,000 miles. Fuel economy has also taken a dive. Do you fancy 29mpg in the winter and 33mpg in the summer? It is still regularly serviced and MOT'ed at Toyota and they haven't highlighted anything and neither has the car (warning lights etc). I do clean the EGR every 10k too. The car itself is fantastic though - still drives like new!

Hi Everyone, I just got a text message from MyToyota, advising that my car is affected by a Service Action. Do you think is relating to the ongoing worldwide airbag recall? The Toyota website does (and always has since I received a letter a long time ago about the airbag recall) state that my car is subject to a recall but I haven't heard any updates since. Is this text message an update on the airbag or due to something else? Thanks

How long is a piece of string? Yes.. it's going to be one of 'those' threads I'm afraid. But anyway... It'd be interesting to know how long everyone's battery has lasted and whether it has been changed or not so I'll kick this off... 2007 - 2.2 T180, 112,000miles, 10 Years and 1 month old - Still on the original battery.

A general consensus is that by removing or gutting out a DPF, exhaust back pressure will decrease which a decent ECU remap would need to sort out otherwise you may run into trouble with the turbo and all sorts of other stuff. A few years ago, very few tuners were able/willing to remap the Denso ECU in the Auris however this may have since changed. If you are going down this route - I'd definitely go somewhere who has worked on this setup before and can prove it has successfully worked.

My opinion? Go for it. From memory... Alternator failure at 85,000 miles / 8 years - covered Clutch making a rattling noise at 58,000 / 5 years - covered Air con making a rattle when engine idling at 80,000 / 7 years - covered Drivers door seal leaking water - covered Thermostat housing o-ring - 76,000 - 7 years - covered Intermediate steering shaft due to knocking on steering - 72,000 - 7 years - covered DPF sensor pipes blocked - 55,000miles / 5 years - covered I never had an issue with rejected claims and as you can see a lot weren't even failures they were rattles/knocking. Do however note - that for a lot of the above issues Toyota had released technical service bulletins (I think this was the term...) for them which 'authenticated' the issues which could be a reason why my dealer had no issues claiming.

I've never really had this problem... Is it a loose exhaust heat shield?

If you're having difficulty starting when the engine is cold (sounds like it by your description) - Search this forum for 2.2 180 SCV (Suction Control Valve)... It is not unheard of your starting issue. If it is this issue - the fix could be an ECU reprogram or a new SCV and an ECU reprogram.

Try get an early SR180 - it will have keyless entry, electric sunroof and auto lights and wipers.... basically the T180 spec!