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Phil_1985 last won the day on May 20 2014

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    Ex - Auris T180 / Now - 2010 Civic 1.8 EX GT
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  1. did you have anything heavy on the passenger seat? if so it could be triggering the seat belt alarm. (Car thinks someone is sat there with no seatbelt on)
  2. Rear caliper binding - fairly common wear and tear on a car of your age. While it may have been able to be solved with a strip and clean of the rear brakes - if the rear discs and pads are low and heavily corroded it's best to change them at the same time. Remember that as a main dealer their approach might be to perform maintenance on your car to see you through to the next time you see them which could be as long as a year. Genuine parts (bushes) will always be pricy, but then what you're getting is quality. Labour charges at a main dealer aren't cheap - assuming due to the various overheads a franchise dealer has to account for. You could always source genuine parts yourself and get them fitted at a decent independent garage, or go to an independent to get a quote for the bushes - just remember that they might even say there's nothing wrong with them and you don't need to change them yet. Please don't assume that the main dealer have fobbed you off - it might be that they want you to be able to drive your car safely for the next 12 months before your next visit. If the bush wears out during the next 12 months and you don't realise, it could cause further damage etc or merely result in you having to take time out of daily life to visit the dealer to get it sorted.
  3. the code might clear itself after a certain amount of engine starts / distance driven / duration the engine has been running as the ECU is no longer detecting the MAF being unplugged.
  4. I can't offer a solution sorry but I agree when you say something isn't right. I agree because when I had my 180 with a tuning box on, @ 50mph I was able to pull away (slowwwwy) from an FN2 (2008 era) Civic Type R before it eventuallyyyyyyy caught up and crept past me.
  5. I have done no research on this, therefore this is only my opinion. In theory, the ECU should be remappable however is there a demand in the market for it? Toyota ECU's are known in the industry to be quite hard to 'crack' in order to start remapping. With this in mind - I'm not sure any tuning company would want to pour their resources (and therefore money) into offering a service which may have little demand.
  6. Forgot I still had this - unsure if it will benefit anyone as it seems we've all since replaced the injector! Fifth Injector.pdf
  7. DPNR - https://www.greencarcongress.com/2005/02/toyota_introduc.html
  8. Worth mentioning that the DPF in the Toyota is a DPNR - A DPF and a NOx adsorber-catalyst - unsure if this makes a difference to 'reaching end of life' which may mean volumes of fuel being injected via the 5th injector in an attempt to keep the car running properly until it eventually becomes too saturated.
  9. I didn't reset dpf values as the dpf had not been replaced. If I had the dpf cleaned by a non toyota dealer, I may have considered resetting the value - baring in mind the potential risk of messing the whole thing up which would then ultimately require a new dpf. I don't know what data the ECU reads in order to calculate the dpf values / lifecycle of it but as an example, if the DPF pressure sensor is used as a data point and the pipes for the sensor are blocked then this could cause all manner of issues - such as potentially injecting extra fuel via the 5th injector causing lots of smoke. This could be because over time the ECU thinks the DPF is reaching the end of it's life so has to regenerate a lot more frequently. My personal opinion is that the excess smoke is due to poor ecu coding - some sort of data, whether accurate or not is telling the ECU to inject extra fuel to the 5th injector causing poor MPG and excess smoke. I had the issue for a long time as well as poor MPG. Used to average 35-40mpg but when the smoking problem started it gradually got worse. It averaged 28-33mpg. - during the time I had a new EGR, inlet manifold cleaned and the 5th injector replaced however the issue still remained. I ultimately learned to live with the poor MPG and smoke and did for years.
  10. I replaced the fifth injector when I had my 180 and it didn't make a difference - smoke levels were still the same and as described on this thread. I'm no mechanic, however is it possible that the DPF might be reaching the end of it's life? If the ECU think's it's fully saturated, it might well be instructing the fifth injector to regen a lot more often as the DPF's capacity is near full. I specifically state "the ECU think's it's fully saturated" as there is a specific menu in tech stream to reset the relevant parts of the ECU when a DPF is replaced. I cannot remember the setting - "DPF load value" / "DPF history" or something like that - it's been years sorry.
  11. The glow plugs never really needed long before the engine would crank regardless of weather - it just doesn't get cold enough in the UK. I had keyless start in my car, and I definitely did not have to declutch, press start, wait two seconds with clutch still held down before the engine begins to crank in the summer. Watching your video, the glow plugs seem fine and pretty regular to me. Even in the coldest of winters (minus 5) - the wait time between pressing start and the engine cranking was not long. If it was - it would be very noticeable for me as I have to keep the clutch pedal pressed as i had keyless entry
  12. good to hear! This was my next route - if the grinding into 2nd gear resulted in some not so regular 'shock' to the drivetrain has it managed to loosen a pipe.
  13. This sounds a bit similar to when my EGR Valve started to give up - it was intermittent power (as if there was no turbo) - but then the EML eventually came on and it was permanent. You could try registering for https://www.toyota-tech.eu/ to view the official diagnosis steps for intermittent power or see if there are any technical service bulletins about this issue. If you go down this route, I would also recommend being able to have on hand the toyota techstream software to make diagnosis easier (some buy this on ebay, some may know a toyota technician on a personal level who could help out etc)
  14. pasting the below which i posted in a different thread in 2017. Years = age of car at the time of claim My opinion? Go for it. From memory... Alternator failure at 85,000 miles / 8 years - covered Clutch making a faint rattling noise if you release the clutch pedal, in neutral when the car is idling 58,000 / 5 years - covered Air con compressor making a faint rattle like the noise of crickets (insect) when engine idling - AC worked perfectly though - 80,000 / 7 years - covered Drivers door seal leaking water - covered Thermostat housing o-ring - 76,000 - 7 years - covered Intermediate steering shaft due to knocking on steering - 72,000 - 7 years - covered DPF sensor pipes blocked - 55,000miles / 5 years - covered All claims were fixed by replacing the parts, not fixing them. I never had an issue with rejected claims and as you can see a lot weren't even failures they were rattles/knocking. Do however note - that for a lot of the above issues Toyota had released technical service bulletins (I think this was the term...) regarding them.
  15. Try your local Toyota dealer or Parts King Kyle. This was ten years ago for me now, but I believe the part had to come from Japan. (As I had also ordered the steering wheel at the time too, it may have been that - I can't remember) @furtula it's been a few years since I've had my Auris now, but I had the armrest - from memory it was definitely better - but I don't remember much else sorry
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