Phil_1985

- Is the tyre wear even on all the tyres? (If the suspension is out of alignment this will increase fuel consumption) - When was the vehicle last serviced and where? It might be worth resetting the ECU by disconnecting the battery so that the car can 'learn' your driving style.

I have a 2007 2.2 180 and sadly I would not recommend the engine.. It was replaced due to the head gasket issue a few years ago (can't remember what year) I'm now on 124,000 miles (the car - not the engines) and have suffered from heavy white/grey? smoke from the exhaust for the last 30,000 miles. Fuel economy has also taken a dive. Do you fancy 29mpg in the winter and 33mpg in the summer? It is still regularly serviced and MOT'ed at Toyota and they haven't highlighted anything and neither has the car (warning lights etc). I do clean the EGR every 10k too. The car itself is fantastic though - still drives like new!

Hi Everyone, I just got a text message from MyToyota, advising that my car is affected by a Service Action. Do you think is relating to the ongoing worldwide airbag recall? The Toyota website does (and always has since I received a letter a long time ago about the airbag recall) state that my car is subject to a recall but I haven't heard any updates since. Is this text message an update on the airbag or due to something else? Thanks

How long is a piece of string? Yes.. it's going to be one of 'those' threads I'm afraid. But anyway... It'd be interesting to know how long everyone's battery has lasted and whether it has been changed or not so I'll kick this off... 2007 - 2.2 T180, 112,000miles, 10 Years and 1 month old - Still on the original battery.

A general consensus is that by removing or gutting out a DPF, exhaust back pressure will decrease which a decent ECU remap would need to sort out otherwise you may run into trouble with the turbo and all sorts of other stuff. A few years ago, very few tuners were able/willing to remap the Denso ECU in the Auris however this may have since changed. If you are going down this route - I'd definitely go somewhere who has worked on this setup before and can prove it has successfully worked.

My opinion? Go for it. From memory... Alternator failure at 85,000 miles / 8 years - covered Clutch making a rattling noise at 58,000 / 5 years - covered Air con making a rattle when engine idling at 80,000 / 7 years - covered Drivers door seal leaking water - covered Thermostat housing o-ring - 76,000 - 7 years - covered Intermediate steering shaft due to knocking on steering - 72,000 - 7 years - covered DPF sensor pipes blocked - 55,000miles / 5 years - covered I never had an issue with rejected claims and as you can see a lot weren't even failures they were rattles/knocking. Do however note - that for a lot of the above issues Toyota had released technical service bulletins (I think this was the term...) for them which 'authenticated' the issues which could be a reason why my dealer had no issues claiming.

I've never really had this problem... Is it a loose exhaust heat shield?

If you're having difficulty starting when the engine is cold (sounds like it by your description) - Search this forum for 2.2 180 SCV (Suction Control Valve)... It is not unheard of your starting issue. If it is this issue - the fix could be an ECU reprogram or a new SCV and an ECU reprogram.

Try get an early SR180 - it will have keyless entry, electric sunroof and auto lights and wipers.... basically the T180 spec!

I had this water leak. I used silicon sealant and it's fine now. (The stuff you seal your bath tub with)

Isn't this because the Auris Multi-Mode Transmission ('auto') isn't an auto but a manual gearbox with a robotic clutch? I'm talking only about the Auris MMT here, not the hybrid.

I have the same problem - and have done for a few months now. Getting a bit worried! I'm on 94,000miles - Full Toyota service history, it isn't eating oil or coolant - engine change was done at 70,000miles too. On mine it appears that the DPF is regenerating constantly - I can only assume this is because it's full / nearing end of life. I'm just waiting for the dreaded day when it finally gives up!

When selected the gear, ie moving the gear stick towards and into 1st gear. No noise when lifting clutch up. i go from 5th to first at traffic lights, car going at 40mph in 5th, slow down and come to a stop and then change into first to set off. Doesn't everyone do this? Block changing - that's what I was taught 12 years ago. - I am led to believe that going down through the gears whilst slowing down before accelerating again is no longer a requirement. Slow down in what ever gear you're in then change to the appropriate gear when you need to accelerate again. Dip the clutch to prevent the car from stalling if applicable. But - each to their own I guess!

If it's a clonking noise when turning the steering wheel side to side when stationary then this maybe the intermediate steering shaft - i had this. There is a Technical Service Bulletin relating to this which describes the symptoms. I had the part replaced under my toyota extended warranty last year. Clunking immediately went away.

My alternator went at a similar age and mileage. Got my changed at toyota because i have a toyota extended warranty though. I've seen a few other posts relating to failing alternators too so it isn't unheard of. Mine is the 2.2 diesel.