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Druid Boy

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Everything posted by Druid Boy

  1. I now use a combination of the in-car aircon bomb treatment every 6 months or so and in between I use the spray can cleaner into the air inlets on the outside of the car every 6-8 weeks (I planned to do it each month but keep forgetting). The spray seems to be very effective at keeping the smell under control. I will continue with the bombs also just to keep on top of things.
  2. Druid Boy


    What Dan said. Brakes aren't an area to be saving money on and the euro car parts um parts will pop straight on without any fussing about (used them myself).
  3. Any pictures or measurements? Presumably it is scraping on kerbs rather than speed ramps? Have you visually inspected the springs for breaks?
  4. I have been servicing my 2.2 D4D for years now, its really very simple and there isn't much to do - so much so that when I started doing it myself I wondered what I had been paying for. The intermediate service is pretty much just oil & filter. Getting the oil filter off can be a pain so it is worth investing in a good quality tool for that (something I keep forgetting to do). Otherwise it is very simple. Handbrake adjustment can be a bit fiddly but, hey, why not pay a professional a little cash to do it for you? I tend to end up doing my service in batches due to lack of time, so, oil & filter one day, air filter & lubrication checks another, that sort of thing. Not sure if the petrol engine is more of a pain due to the location of the spark plugs but I doubt it. If you have the time and some decent tools give it a go. Even if you get stuck you can get a professional to finish it off for you.
  5. So I would expect there to be a difference but for it to be marginal. I ran a K&N filter on an old 600cc bike but it was part of a big package of work done. The thing that I remember most is that the whole washing, drying, re-oiling saga at service time was a right pain in the butt and the filter took several attempts to ensure it was fully covered with the red oil. Took as long to sort the filter as it did the rest of the bike - to the point that I wished I had a second filter so I could have one ready to go at service time and I could deal with the dirty one in slow time. Good job I wasn't paying for servicing as it would probably have added £40 labour to the bill.
  6. Rather than try to diagnose and repair by replacing parts why not get a specialist to have a look at it? It might cost a little but if you change the diff, which I believe is integral to the gearbox, and the problem persists then the money was wasted.
  7. Try swapping your front wheels to the rear to see if that changes things. I once suffered with a spinning Rover because the tyres on the rear were rubbish. Appearance, tread, pressures were all fine but they just didn't grip and after spinning on a roundabout in front of a couple of cars I thought it was time to change them.
  8. Parts King on this forum. Genuine parts, tidy prices. Still haven't had any commission from him mind....
  9. As I understand it you will need to swap your headlights over but can disconnect your fog lamp at the rear and connect it (with a new cable) to a bolt on fog lamp on the correct side of the car. Usually fitted on the bottom of the bumper on the offside for the country you are in, so left I presume. Reversing light is irrelevant as it is an aid to the driver rather than a saferty feature as such.
  10. So, um, you indicator goes on and off? Sorry, could resist.
  11. Glad it is starting better Just have to figure out how many times to press the button now. 😊
  12. Try it in the morning straight after the glowplug light goes out. If you leave it too long before pressing the starter, a cold engine will suck all the heat away from the glow plugs and make the engine start rough, as though the glow plugs had never been on in the first place see.
  13. Now I may have missed something here but you guys seem to be talking about two different lights: one on the starter button and the other on the dash (the glow plug light). From the original post it sounds as though you give the car 90 seconds before trying to start it. To me that suggests that your glow plugs have stopped glowing hence your slow start. Sam, are you watching for the glow plug light on the dash board going out or the orange light on the starter switch? You should be watching the one on the dash board (unless I am mistaken). Try starting it just after the glow plug light goes out and see if that is any better.
  14. Hi Mary You can choose where you want to take it. Many independant mechanics have the same facilities as a Toyota dealer and will probably be able to help you. On the other hand Toyota dealers may cost more but do offer pleasant waiting areas, courtesy cars etc. The decision is entirely yours. If you know somebody locally who can recommend a mechanic that is probably as good a place as any to start. You can have a chat with the mechanic first to get a sense of reassurance - you don't have to commit to any repair work. Discuss the problem, get a feel for how much it might cost. If you are unsure, try another mechanic or chat toyota. Your are the customer and the good mechanics will want to look after you - partly because they would like you to come back to them in the future.
  15. If you can leave a window on each side down by just 5mm it can make a big difference. My transit suffers from long periods parked up (neglected) and I leave the windows open about 10mm permanantly. Also if you are working outside or its a nice clear breezy day just open the windows and boot up - even just for 10 minutes and allow the thing to breath. Worth putting a reminder in your phone to go and close it up again though......not that I have ever forgotten..........ummmm.... Merry Christmas!
  16. Rather than plump for an internet diagnosis it might be worth your while to have a local independant mechanic have a look at them. A thorough strip, clean and inspection should uncover the actual fault - if there is one. In the meantime if you want to reassure yourself that the brakes work well, find a nice quiet road and give them a good stomping at about 20 mph. If the ABS kicks in then your brakes are still strong, if a little strange just before stopping.
  17. Glad you are sorted. I hope it was just the battery - it usually is and they are a whole lot cheaper to replace!
  18. If you are struggling with the bolts you could ask your friendly local garage to loosen them for you and nip them back up. A air gun usually shocks them lose quite quickly and I'm sure they wouldn't charge much for that.
  19. 12 months MOT or thereabouts = £800 of anyone's money in a private sale. And no, I don't need another car..... yet.
  20. See now I'm curious. If you unlock the car with the key remote but do not open one of the doors it re-locks itself after about 30 seconds. So if you disconnect then reconnect the battery but do not operate the key remote do the doors lock themselves? I would expect them not to. Tempted to try it (with the keys in your pocket just in case)?
  21. Wash and wax the scooby and sell it on - before it costs you anything. Keep the cash safe to put towards a replacement if the Toyota dies or gets too expensive to keep running.
  22. If it was me and my battery was 5 years old and letting me down I would just replace it because they never let you down when you have time to deal with it. They let you down when you need to get somewhere - and back again. Price up a quality battery from a few places and remember to include the return price offered by places like Euro Car Parts. Only a few quid but, hey, it will pay for a pint when the job is finished.
  23. 10.44V is very low for a 12V battery. 14.17V is a good voltage with the engine running showing that the alternator is working correctly. Chances are the battery is goosed. That's the normal way of things, they don't last forever. If after a thorough charging or a good long drive the voltage is low again then think about changing it. Also try a drop test on the battery. Put the voltmeter in a position so you can see it when trying to start the car. Turn the key and watch the meter: if it drops to anywhere near 9V it has probably had it.
  24. An engine change for a scrapper is probably cheaper but does carry the risk of the fault occuring on the replacement engine. Unless you can get a warranty certified engine.
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