peevee

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About peevee

  • Rank
    New Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Peter
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    RAV 4.2 XT3 3 door Manual
  • Toyota Year
    2004
  • Location
    Kent
  • Interests
    General Automotive
    Motorsport & Racing
    Car Modification
    Travel
  1. Thanks for your reply. We've checked the bar and as you say, it does bend downwards and the drop links are lower than centre line.This is after the garage apparently corrected the 'upside down' installation! My friend is now £600 lighter for the privilege (this does include new brake hoses and the unblocking of the washer jets!). Hey ho.. he's happy he's now got the MOT cert. I know I wouldn't be as I'd like to know more..
  2. My friend's Rav4 Mk2 has just failed its MOT due to rear break hose pipes rubbing against the sway bar. The garage has informed him the bar is upside down and that they will need to drop the axle to remedy the situation. He has had the car for some 14 years and in his opinion has never noticed any dodgy handling characteristics. To me this all sounds a bit 'fantastical' having looked at a picture of the sway bar for this model I can't see how it can be installed upside down. Grateful for any comments etc.
  3. Hi Anchorman, Thanks for excellent 'How to'.. ..however, just purchased 4.2 XT3 3 door manual 74500 miles 2004 and a little confused with service intervals for Gearbox,Transfer Box & Rear Diff. You suggest 'Transmission oil should be changed every 2 years or 20k (every second service).' but according to my Service & Warranty Schedule 'Manual Gearbox & Front Differential oil' should be Inspected every 40000 miles. It seems quite clear according to the Schedule, that Transfer and Rear Differential oil (RAV4 4WD) should be replaced every 20000 miles or 2 years whichever comes first. I do get confused with RAV4 terminology i.e transmission/gearbox/transfer box/front diff but fairly clear where the rear diff is! Hoping you can put my mind at rest. Thanks Peter
  4. Thanks Lee. I've recently had new discs. pads and bearings done. I'm confident all bushes are ok so, hopefully only the calipers to check and maybe sort out. Is it relatively easy to overhaul master cylinder? BTDGTTS??
  5. Thanks guys - general consensus is that they are good quality so I think I will go for them. Calipers seem to be working ok but I'll check more thoroughly when I change the old lines (which I guess are nearing 12 years old) for new.
  6. ..just wondering if anybody who has used these, has had any issues with fitment, length problems etc. There have been issues I've discovered on other forums which may be down to fitment location rather than the quality of the lines. These are available for about £60 for 4 lines i.e both front and rear. The OEM rubber hoses I believe are approx £46 EACH !!!! Thx
  7. Right - booked car in for coming Monday. Am quite happy with estimate which is £377 total cost incl. labour and vat and also including drain & refill with anti-freeze. They also use genuine Toyota parts. I'm using ABM Motors in Beckenham, South London ex Toyota mechanics and recommended on this board some time ago. Thanks for all the advice
  8. Thanks for swift reply Mstock3 - Yep, very helpful. My gut feeling at the time was wow! I don't necessarily want to stick with Toyota history so I'll take your advice and try and find a good local indie. Not sure if there are any other localish Toyota dealers around but I'll do some research.
  9. Hi, My local Toyota dealer has estimated a total cost of £650 to replace above in my 1999 Rav4.1 Actual cost may increase if he finds more than just the basic parts need replacing which in his words 'is likely as car is old'. Does this sound reasonable? Car has done 110k miles and belt and water pump were last changed at 55k miles. Grateful for any advice.
  10. After further investigation by local Toyota dealerman and a cost of £85 still noise is undiagnosed! Dealerman thought it might be bearing or CV or even a bent axle and the latter would cost £500 plus £200 labour!! Have booked car in for next Tuesday at local friendly garage man for futher investigation and I'll let you know outcome. RAV4Len - I tried your test but couldn't detect any differences in breaking point/change in brake feel.
  11. Thanks Anchorman You can see why I'm confused ! Here's a reply from another knowledgeable gentleman:- Quote 'Same oil for a manual gearbox and transfer box...........2 drain plugs one filler plug (through the gearbox) I had to do a bit of research as well....the Haynes manual and others was pretty unclear about the whole thing and WRONG about the transfer casing using different oil...but as i said in the earlier post i refilled through the gearbox filler with the transfer casing plug removed...the oil started to come out after a couple of litres which confirmed the g/box+transfer casing/box did indeed share the same oil.....which makes it impossible to use 2 different oil grades as they would mix'
  12. Grateful if some clarification can be given re manual gearbox oil and transfer case oil. I don't know if a 4.2 is the same as a 4.1 but I'm led to believe on a 4.1 there is one filler for both g/box oil and transfer case oil but two drains i.e. one for each. If this is so, I do not understand how there can be two different oils required because logically (my logic anyway) both the g/box and transfer case are sharing the same oil? Many thanks Peter
  13. Hi guys - thanks for the welcome and advice. I'm off to a local indie man tomorrow who'll check this out and I'll revert. I'm still suspicious of the brakes/pads as there is also what feels like warped discs as well! Hope it's not the diffs/transfer box - the diff lock seems to be working ok i.e. switches on/off no problem and no extra noise when in use. The tyres I believe are standard size, 215/70/16 so kind of dismissing that for the moment. Peter
  14. Hi, Noobie here and new owner today 1999 Manual 3dr GX 109k miles. On way home noticed quite loud grinding sound possibly coming from front or rear n/s. Absolutely fine in straght line but any deviation left or right from straight, creates the quite prominent noise, and the greater the lock L or R the louder the noise! Sounds like worn brake pads against disc(s) but doesn't occur when braking so I'm kind of dismissing pads. Could wheel bearinga cause this. Are wheel bearing problems common in RAV4?? I haven't checked tyre sizes on car - just wondering if it could be tyres rubbing? Grateful for any thoughts before I go rummaging under car on Xmas Day!!! Peter