Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information


Deepsky

Registered Member
  • Posts

    33
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Deepsky

  1. Right, so I've got a Pioneer DEH-2100UB headunit which I've had for quite a few years and just installed a SONY XM-ZR604 3/4 channel amp which I've got a pair of nice Infinity 6x9's hooked up to channel 1/2 and a kicker 12" sub bridged to channels 3/4... Problem is that the 6x9's are **** rinsing but the sub is barely audible at all. Even with the gain on channels 3/4 cranked up to max it's pitiful and the 6x9's are creating more bass than the sub. I've put a miltimeter across the sub and it's reading 4 ohms which is normal (its a new sub and amp...) and even tried the 6x9's on channels 3 & 4 and there's nothing wrong with the amp outputs so what could it be? I've only got one pair of RCA outs on the back of my head unit - would this be the culprit as the amp has two pairs, one each for channels 1/2 & 3/4 - I just bought a pair of rca splitters to split it on the amp. I know some head units have a separate sub level rca output, but my last old pioneer head unit only had 1 pair of rca outs and I had an amp and two subs running off that with no issues... Ideas?
  2. Vaseline on rubber? that's a no no, it eats the rubber, much better using rubber grease! vaseline on battery terminals and electrical contacts yes but not rubber ;) Eventually, probably yeah. Its not really that much of an issue tbh. I replace the slide boots pretty regularly whenever I do a caliper service anyway (they're only a quid or two for a set anyway!). Lots of people use vaseline on door seals, sunroof seals and on old convertibles to keep the rubber seals along the edges of folding/sliding roofs nice and soft and supple. Takes quite a while before it starts degrading the rubber. I've tried actual specific stuff for rubber seals in the past but its crap :!Removed!: Each to their own though, eh
  3. If its sitting long enough it'll beging collecting water and dampness and start corroding as well as the calipers seizing up. As other's have said also, if a battery is left too long without being charged or run regularly then that will degrade and if left to completely discharge then it will be knackered. Also it's a good idea to drain out old fuel as that can sometimes get a bit gacky but in the case of a diesel then I'd just let it run once every one or two weeks. other than that not alot really. If I've ever left a vehicle sitting for a long period I'll always give the calipers a good service first and make sure i put vaseline around the the slide boots to stop any water and dampness ingress as well as giving the car a damn good wax to protect it from the elements and keep the battery on a trickle/maintenance charger.
  4. If anyone's local to me I can do most jobs. I'm local to Easton which is west of Norwich on the A47. Postal area NR8 About me: I'm a fully trained plant engineer and have worked on various machines from lorries, vans, mobile cranes, diggers, forklifts e.t.c Although I no longer work as an engineer I'm fully capable to do all jobs and have almost every tool for every job and act as a mechanic for all my friends, family, neighbours and do all my own work myself. I'm a massive fan of mechanics and engineering and am always tinkering with something and spend most of my time on my obsession which is building steam engines with a friend Only things I won't touch, purely because I quite simply don't have alot of spare time these days are gearboxes, engine overhauls, clutches, heater matrixes or electrical faults that involve having to dig around inside looms etc or any jobs that would take more than 6-8 hours. As a general idea of jobs i will/wont do: Most general jobs are okay: servicing which includes oil changes, brake discs, brake fluid & bleed, coolant flush & refill, pads, cables, filters e.t.c general repairs, alternators, starter motors, gaskets, exhausts & replacment of other general parts such as wishbones, ball joints, bushes e.t.c Small to medium welding jobs. I have the ability to weld ally and steel as well as stonechip, underseal etc. general problem finding & electrical fault finding. Won't do: Major electrical issues heater matrix or related issues clutches gearboxes bodywork repairs other than some welding jobs C.V's wheel bearings
  5. On every other car i've ever had the fronts and rear washer motors have always been separate. At the bottom of the bottle you'll have two motors, the smallest one is normally the rear and largest is the front. I'm quite new to corollas myself but I'm sure I read that the fuses are in the passenger footwell. Pretty much always the fuses will be under the dash somewhere. Otherwise there'll be an obvious panel under the bonnet with fuses, relays e.t.c that it may be in. Could also be a relay problem too. Do you have a multimeter?
  6. understeer = hitting a tree forewards oversteer = hitting a tree backwards horse power = how fast you hit the tree torque = how far you take the tree with you. hope this helps. I actually lolled at that It's surprising though how many people don't understand understeer and oversteer though. its quite essential in understanding car handling and improving driving technique. Imagine a scenario where you're driving round a sharp bend or roundabout. Understeer is where you turn to go round the corner but the front of the car just keeps going off in the same direction as the initial angle of entry before the corner and either goes wide or straight on instead of going around the corner. This is most often experienced when icy and you turn and the car just essentially carries straight on regardless of which direction the wheels are pointing. Often the biggest cause of understeer is too much power or speed when entering a corner, slippy conditions, standing water/aquaplaning or combinations of both. Understeer can be simulated by being in a really low gear and booting it to wheelspin whilst going round a wet corner (not really advisable!). This will result in loss of traction on the front wheels and cause the car's inertia to push it off in which ever way the car's chassis is pointing, regardless of the wheels. Oversteer is where the back swings out when going round a corner and if not quick to react and counter or expecting it will often result in the car spinning. This often happens in RWD when a driver is being a bit overzealous with the throttle and will cause the rear to swing round in whatever way the car's mass is wanting to go. (I.E, if in a right hand bend the rear will want to swing round to the left as this is the direction in which the cars mass is wanting to go). In RWD however (and this is my own personal experience) understeer is easily controlled by balancing the throttle and there is alot more feel to when it will happen and to what degree. In FWD cars it will often just bite unless you're aware that it may be imminent. A way to simulate understeer would be to engage a corner or a turn and yank the handbrake quickly or if you're slightly more able you can use a flick technique to unstable the car right before entry to a corner and then turn in sharply if done correctly the back will slide out. But this takes experience and understanding of you cars characteristics. More often than not for most people understeer will happen predominatly on front wheel drive and oversteer happens on rear wheel drive but are not necessarily exclusive and if you're being a bit of a nutter (or do it intentionally) will get both Basically understeer = boring. oversteer =
  7. my parents focus has pirelli p9000's on it and it sticks to the road like nothing i've ever felt before and even in the wet the grip is pretty impressive. I've personally sworn by pirelli's since the p6000's came out. Funny though that also my sisters little fiesta is running the firehawk fuel savers and they're not too bad on that either, however . other thing about tyres is that it's also often down to the individual person's driving style too I spose.
  8. I'm running the standard 15's on my rolla. CorollaD4D - I have noticed that the rear of my corolla does seem a bit twitchy and I did actually manage to get the ***** out a week back with a little flick and it actually shat me up, even though it was intentional it was so unpredictably quick and sudden in the way it just came round with practically no feeling or warning whatsoever, normally you get a degree of give but my corolla just seems to bite at the earliest oppourtunity. But then, going back to my original post I am pretty much solely used to RWD where oversteer is far more controllable (and fun!) so maybe I just need to get used to the edgy handling and FWD a bit better. I did used to be quite a bit of an oversteer fiend in my previous cars so perhaps I'm putting a bit too much pressure on the poor little car But still the understeer is pretty mental. Will wait to see what other rolla gurus have to say on tyre choice but I have been musing upon the idea of dropping her a wee bit but don't really want to compromise the ride quality too much.
  9. Been ****** down with rain here the last day or two and tonight was the first time since I got my car a few weeks ago I've really gone out for a drive and given it some welly and noticed that my corolla has an insane amount of understeer! Maybe I'm just used to rear wheel drive and more sporty/solid cars but it does seem quite excessive and was just wondering if you guys have any issues and what tyres you run etc. I'm currently rolling with firestone firehawks at the moment. On all my other cars I've always had Pirelli p6000's or similar which seemed to cope with my driving 'style' pretty well but just wondering if theres anything that goes well with these cars
  10. Agree with what other people have been saying. While it may be perfectly possible to repair there's always going to be the cost issue. Dropping in a new engine is far less troublesome, costly and time consuming than taking one out and stripping it. Doesn't mean you shouldnt give it a good look over though, there's never a set rule to these things and you might be a jammy ***** and get lucky. Or, like me, you just might like to have a tinker about anyway... I had a BMW 318ti sieze up on me due to an oil feed blockage and thought I was properly knackered. It a fairly well worn in car (around 140k) and had served a good life so I decided to just ubik around with it instead... Gave it a go and just with a good engine flush, new pistons, rods, bearings, shells, rings and a nice rebore (was actually a 319ti ) she lived again and went on to do another 100k miles! Granted, could have probably got another engine for that but what the hell. Tis not as fun issit
  11. Thats a very good point. Its the reason why I went for Mobil 1 ESP (C2) spec for my Avensis T-180 D-CAT. ESP also mets the C3 spec as well. I think I'll stick to my Mobil 1 yeah mobil has always done me alright. These days i use amsoil. its a wee bit more pricey than mobil but I really do swear by it these days.
  12. I mentioned it in another thread but I had major issues in the past with castrol magnatec. Had an oldskool BMW 318ti that I used to run on Mobil 10/40 for ages but my local parts shop started selling magnatec alot cheaper and so I started using that instead. Never had an issues previously but after a few years I started developing problems with a roughh as **** engine and then it eventually siezed. Turned out the high ash content in the magnatec sludged up my engine and blocked some of the little oil galleries and passages. yeah fair enough, magnatec does make your engine alot quiter than alot of other oils, but the only reason it manages that is by using a high ash content to dampen the sound. Screw that!
  13. Ah shame, woulda had that off you if you had the fixings and ball as well. Don't need to tow much weight anyway, I've just got a small homemade trailer for my kayaks and motocross bikes.
  14. What model is the towbar for? I'm currently looking for a towbar for my Corolla 1.4 T3 (03).
  15. Personally i've always used Amsoil in all my bikes and cars, never had an issue with it. As for spark plugs i doubt there's really much difference between them although Bosch stuff is always top quality. I've had NGK plugs in the past that have been faulty straight from new so i've always used Bosch since then. If you aren't a complete numpty and carry out routine maintenance then It generally doesn't matter all that much what you use just as long as you keep up a routine service schedule. oh just as an afterthought - I've always tended to stay away from castrol GTX/magnatec. I used it in a previous vehicles and it has led to a rather alarming amount of sludge buildup... Exactly what it is advertised to protect against! I did some research into it and apparently their oils contain a high ash concentration which leads to a large amount of buildup (Presumably the high ash concentration is what makes their oil keep your engine quiter for longer). On that basis i ditched it and moved on to amsoil. Never had an issue with sludge buildup since.
  16. Tried a ton of FM transmitters but haven't really found any that work well enough to be of any real long term practical use. Always find that the quality is really poor and the volume is really low on them.
  17. I've got the 1.4 and can barely keep the MPG above 35-40. it's not my driving either, i can get almost 55mpg out of my sisters vw polo 1.4
  18. When i was 22 i was driving a BMW 325 with 3 years no claim, fully comp for just under 700. You're getting ripped off mate. I'm 25 now and my 1.4 corolla is costing my 350 fully comp. (have 6 points too) Find a decent company (don't trust those online insurance comparison sites, you can find MUCH cheaper companies if you do it the old fashioned way) and see if they can do you any discounts. For instance, my parents were looking to renew their policy around the same time as mine so i got in with Admiral who do you each with your own personal policy that is under the umbrella of a home multi-car policy and instead of most companies that give you a discount on the 2'nd, 3'rd car e.t.c they do a discount on the first car too. So i got my mum, dad and sister to join admiral and that's a massive saving for everyone. And just to be clear we do each have our own policies, it's not like some multi-car packages that insurance companies do where you're all tied into the one policy for the household. Also, add one or both of your parents as named drivers to your policy. This usually (depends on company) takes a massive chunk off your premium too. Also try any local insurance companies. they often have some good rates.
  19. Aye cheers dude. Yeah its not a bad little motor really although i'm surprised it's not a bit more economical. Although, having driven a Xedos 9 2.5l supercharged V6 for several years before hand i guess i just need to adjust the useage of my right foot slightly Still, can't complain really, i'm still getting at least twice the MPG. But yeah i'm going to pull the stereo out soon and put my pioneer in. the CD player is really ****** me off as well, keeps randomly skipping and can't listen to any of my music
  20. Any way to stop it creaking? it's driving me FREAKIN BONKERS! :censor: :!Removed!:
  21. From experience i've found that the plastic lugs used on trim and panels are only really made to be used once. I always buy packs of them for if i ever need to take any panels off as i always replace them, especially if they're old as when you pull them about they tend to bend and can stretch meaning that your panels or trim may not fit as well as it used to. I've always found dealers always have large supplies of them they are willing to sell to you for a fair price or otherwise you can often find them on ebay or online.
  22. Btw, going a bit off-topic here but where did you get your strut brace from, how much for and does it make much difference?
  23. Very nice I like it. You've managed to do some nice changes but still keep it looking tidy and smart and not 'in your face' like some other cars on here that look like they've been driven through a Wilco's store. :)
  24. Ah cool, nice that somebody has the balls to admit that they've cocked up. Thing is even though a supplier can guarantee their paint to be a match against the original paint colour/code in the real world it's slightly different as some colours and paints age and fade (some more than others) meaning that it can be a proper hassle to get a right colour match again, although some centres use a computer to match the colour to your existing paint but even so it's often never quite perfect. Not to say that this will be the case with your car, but matching paint colours against cars that are more than a few years old can be a tricky thing to do especially with some colours like silver especially when it's metallic. But remember though, you know that you've had the work done so it will always be more obvious to you. Most people won't even be able to notice. If you've taken good care of your car though, and it hasn't faded too much (which in this country shouldn't really happen that drastically) then you'll most likely get away with it providing the person doing your car knows his ***** from his elbow.
  25. if the runs were in the lacquer then it should be pretty easy to wet and dry them down, same for the dirt.
×
×
  • Create New...




Forums


News


Membership