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GT-Four NZ

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  1. Well my new engine is in with a few extra goodies. Unfortunately the supercharger on this one seems to have issues with its clutch. Soooo I'm thinking that a turbo will be just as cheap as a new supercharger. Anyone got any opinions on the most suitable turbo for this? I'm looking for driveability as well as peak power. I don't really want to wait til 5k rpm to get boost or have it fall away just after 5k rpm either. I was thinking a TD05h but I'm still in the planning phase of things...
  2. I get about 28mpg with a mix of motorway and city driving. I give it the occassional thrash too and my GZE sports a 14lb pulley kit :D The engines can be very economical when you want them to be but have the power to back it up if you need it... I love them. Much better than my GT-Four which did about 17mpg under similar conditions and it was standard!
  3. I was 21 when I got mine. Its gone now as I wanted something cheaper to run that I could fix myself and hey in the end it turns out its faster than my GT-Four! Hahaha I love my Levin :D
  4. Mine did the same thing. I was driving along and the car just died a slow and smooth death. Couldn't work it out for a while. You are correct in thinking that it is a non interference engine... thank god as my forged pistons were under 20k old. But the reason why mine snapped was that the auto tensioner let go. Belt was only 30k old but if that isn't a good prompt to replace eveerything that you can (besides the horror labour to get in there!) then I don't know what is. Good idea to replace... Timing belt, water pump, auto tensioner, tensioner, idler (can't remember if I had one or not), cam and crank seals and for what they are worth the auxilary drive belts. I didn't see much change from $750 (NZD) and I got a deal on the parts.
  5. Not sure if you have done any research but there are two things to look at... The Tom's Altezza 280T uses a blown 3S-GE mill. They are super rare and info isn't the easiest to find, I would imagine that they use an electro magnetic clutch but couldn't be positive. The 1990's Crowns/Cressidas etc were fitted with the 1G-GE a handful of which recieved the SC14 supercharger making them of course a 1G-GZE. This charger is a good up grade for the 4A motor. Not sure if you knew this already but if all else fails try looking at Vortech.
  6. He didn't say that he was getting a 2002 Starlet White smoke is a sign of turbo wear but once you start getting it at idle you haven't got much longer til it becomes undrivable... this usually occurs over about 4-5 weeks. They are fairly economical and have high/low boost setting as standard. As a light car they are a good start for any tuning. Best thing to do that has been done over here... 3S-GTE! :D
  7. Do people really think that the Gen 5 is the pinnacle in terms of styling? I couldn't say that my Gen 5 was ugly or even close to ugly but the Gen 6 is really a good looking car. The rear end is probably the biggest gap in terms of styling between the two models IMO but they are so different looking you must have a favourite... in fact I feel a poll coming on... Poll!
  8. So lads and ladesses' Whats the best... ST165 ST185 ST205 Apologies if these images are anyones personal vehicles and did not wish them to be used... but they are on the net I mean c'mon!
  9. First car for me was... 1984 Mazda Familia Then I realised the error of my ways after two break ins and got a... 1989 Levin GT-Z Til I had to move for uni and was convinced to sell so I got a... 1990 Celica Z-R Which I had for some time until I had to move again but sold it earlier leaving me borrowing my mates... 1983 Levin AE85/6 Til I moved and bought my money pit in the form of a... 1990 Celica GT-Four Until repairs and gas bills and future problems pushed a poor student to get... 1989 Levin GT-Z which I am most happy with :D Toyotas are the "!Removed!"
  10. I wouldn't be so quick to write off the 3S-FE. I owned a Z-R celica (Gen 5) and couldn't fault it. Went pretty well actually. The difference is that while the GE has two individual cam sprockets driven by the belt while the FE has one sprocket driven by the belt and the other cam driven off an internal gear drive. The FE has a narrower valve angle and produes more torque earlier than the GE for better response whereas the GE needs to be revved to get to its optimal torque range. For round town driveablility and economy you can't fault the FE head... unless round town driveability means about as much to you as what your neighbour had for breakfast. :P
  11. You are taking the ***** right? The Gen6 is lighter, faster, more powerful, wider and... not that my opinion really counts against facts... a better looking car. One thing that these models share is the $$$ involved. They are a relatively complicated piece of kit in a small body. Mechanics usually hate working on them and any labour charge will be 1.5-3 times what a "normal" car would be under the same conditions. As stated also the parts are $$$ and generally Toyota genuine only. If you have the money then by all means go for it... I just sold my Gen5 and got a GT-Z Levin and to be honest it uses less gas and would blow my Celica into the weeds... I do have a strange love of the AE92 that I can't explain though It also uses basic Corolla parts too :D
  12. As far as I know and I'm pretty sure on this there is no water level warning light. Its a shame I just sold my Celica with its English owners manual cos it had all the warning lights and what they mean in it! There is one for low oil... refered to as the idiot light... cos if this comes on you got SFA oil left in the engine! And I would assume that there is one for temperature. The fact that it doesn't overheat when its idling at standstill shows that the cooling system is doing its job... which is why I think that you have a head problem. Process of elimination really. If you can't see any bubbles in the cooling system then if may be very minor. How hot does it get? and is it only when the engine is under load?
  13. Heads/head gaskets will not always leak oil into the cooling system. My Levin has a very minor problem in that it builds up air in the cooling system yet the oil is clean and there is none in the coolant. Run the engine with the radiator cap off and check to see if there are any bubbles coming through while the engine is still cold or get a Tee-Kay head check done or similar. Is the car blowing any white smoke? Check that the thermostat is opening fully too. It may be opening sufficiently for low revs but as your water pump spins faster pressure can be built up... I doubt that this would be enough to blow a radiator cap though.
  14. Firstly Hi, I have just sold my GT-Four and managed to get my hands on a AE92 GT-Z Levin. So I'm guessing that would fall into the Corolla forum :P so Hi :D Now to the point. I have on their way to me some of the above shocks but are wondering whether they are suitable for road use. I have lowered springs at the moment on shortened shocks and it is reasonably firm on the road. Can't be ubikd changing them over only to find that the ride goes to custard. Anyone know anything about them?
  15. Haha yeha I know, it takes some getting used to driving at night in well lit areas with no real sign that you have headlights on. I just never liked the wedge shape of the Trueno though. The only thing that I don't like about it is... FWD Surely Toyota could've continued the RWD setup from the AE86's through one more generation of Levin.
  16. Forced induction kit? Is this actually what they call it? Forced induction is one of three things... Turbo, Supercharger or Nitrous. I'm not familiar with UK terms but hmmm ok... Pod filters will do well if you can get cold air to them, just be cautious about mounting them low down in the bumper (great source of cold air) as then water can become an issue. Also the length of the pipe can have an impact of the performance of the engine, so may pay to research that or as you say just get a kit where the hard work has been done for you.
  17. The Gen 5 GT-Four (ST185) will keep you poor if its done high miles. Its not that they break all the time but there is a lot to break on them. They are a fairly complicated car and labour costs are probably higher than another comparable japanese model. That said they are great cars if you can afford them, and if looked after will not give you too much greif. If you do get one just bear this in mind... If you take something apart on it for repair (waterpump, clutch headgasket etc.), replace everything that you can afford to do in there cos you don't want to be pulling them apart to often (or worse paying someone too!)
  18. The GT-Four has gone as it was costing me too much to keep and it didn't look like it was going to ease up either. On a brighter note I got another Toyota :D of course. Back to my first... AE92 GT-Z Levin. It damn cheap on gas compared to the Celica and would honestly blow it into the weeds (this may have something to do with the 14psi pulley kit ) and got it at not a bad price. It's a bit rough at the moment but give me time... My new toy... Have a look and watch this space B)
  19. Yeah the "A" is the JDM widebody alright. Just personally I thank god that they didn't make any auto GT-Fours. I mean really... its a sports car... its meant to be driven! Not hitting you up Hot Gen 5. Toyota has been pretty good with their sports cars as far as that goes... no auto GT4'S, GTZ's, AE86's... all the cars I know and love :D they got a bit sappy later on with the Supra though :P
  20. Whatever you do replace the hydraulic tensioner if there is one on your model. My cambelt was done about 10k before I purchased it and 20k into ownership the F#$KIN thing let go... snap crackle pop... thank god Toyota had the sense to make a non interference engine :D
  21. If it were the turbo then the smoke would most likely be the thick white variety while at idle and after a short period (2-3) weeks it will start belching it out when you hit boost. I agree with the stem seals theory. Look at it as an opportunity... head coming off... metal head gasket... maybe some porting... the list is endless.
  22. Mines coming up for sale in the next couple of weeks. Shame its in NZ though. Rebuilt engine with forged pistons, race bearings, clutch replaced and turbo rebuilt less than 12 months ago, always run stock boost and not modified one bit with the exception of a fan on the intercooler. It will be sad to see her go but I am sort of being forced into it. I need the money for other commitments... (looks sideways at cheaper GT-Z <_< )
  23. Mine has no BOV on it. Hard to see where Toyota would've put it its such a short intake tract! Where is your situated?
  24. Yeah a 5w30 or 10w30 should be fine. 10w40 isnt going to do any harm either but prob pay to check with Toyota or one of the oil company help lines. I have had a mate run his Vtec (am I allowed to say that word on here ) on 20w50 and ran like a bag of *******. But then again he wasnt the smartest of guys and it was a Honda so its going to run badly isnt it! :P
  25. I have never experienced any "common" problems in either of my Gen 5's. The one to look out for would be the SS3 (GT-Four aside). Has a VVT engine and a nice bit of kit from the factory but you will pay for it. If shes not too worried bout the performance then your better off just getting one with a decent kit and some alloys and saving some cash. Both the 3S-FE and 3S-GE perform well, the GE being more peaky and the FE offering more low down power and smoother delivery. The convertible ones I have never really looked at too much. The mechanism tends to add significant weight and in my opinion just adds more stuff to go wrong. Either way a decent car that should give you few problems.
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