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    AE86 & AE82
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  1. Hi Mate,

    I see you havent been on this in ages, however if you get this message drop me a messgae as i think i may have a corolla that used to belong to you, would love to hear some history on it.


  2. Thats abit incorrect tbh. The black top crank is the better, due to its lighter and alot better balanced, which also allows it to rev past 9000rpm in std form, compared to the silver top crank is pushing its limits at 8500rpm. But yes, the silver top rods are stronger, but arent very well matched and balanced. So an ideal set up is: Black top crank and block, lightened and balanced silver top con rods, forged pistons etc. In the way of heads, if your gonna be porting, then you can use either heads. The black top head, has the better combustion chamber though, due to less hot spots than the silver top head.
  3. Hi there, have you still got any parts left?!? Have you got any decent rear mudflaps and n/s/r wheel arch trims?? Let me know, thanks Rob
  4. Hi there, As title really. I am after a good pair of rear mudflaps and also the n/s/r (passenger rear) arch trim for my latest AE82. They have been discontinued from Toyota for a while now, so resorting to lots of wanted adds! haha. Cash waiting. Cheers Rob
  5. That beaut was on ebay a little while back and i was so tempted to get a loan out and buy that! Its probably the best looking RA28 ive ever seen! Simple/subtle but very effective!
  6. I got an AE82 gearbox (4AGE fitment) gearbox forsale if you want one. Doesnt jump out of gears, no bearing noises etc £50.
  7. AE86 wheels wont fit an MX5 though as AE86's are 114.3mm and MX5's are 100mm. But that doesnt change anything for you, i just felt i had to state that! haha. have you ever had the tyres off them, to see if there is any hint on the inside of thr rim?!?!
  8. Only one of the stickers are available from Toyota now, and i think its the o/s/f door sticker! The rest you will have to get made up by someone!
  9. Yours might be, but the rest of the UK's Renualts are no good, otherwise they wouldnt come bottom of the table in surveys all the time! And ive worked on many of them, and the build quality is shocking compared to the Jap's!
  10. Just found this on a site Okay, young padawan learner. When you refer to your engine, use the visible mechanical differences to describe your particular 4A-GE. For example, over the 4A-GE's lifespan, there are external differences on the block that you can readily see. Some variants have a noticeable plate that's sandwiched in between the head and the intake manifold (the T-VIS system along with a "name tag" affixed to the top of the manifold log). Some used either a MAP or AFM sensor to read the engine load (the amount of air getting into the engine)--but, we'll skip this characteristic because there are some 4A-GE's out there that have used MAP and AFM during the same time period depending on the market. Others had an external oil drain at the intake side of the head/block. Still, other differences aren't readily apparent unless the engine's disassembled. Read on and become enlightened. =) 83-86 3 rib block 87-89 7 rib block, That must be off an european website, as no 4AGE in the UK was fitted with an Air Flow Meter, they were all Map sensors! And no AE86 ever ran AFM's being a UK spec or Import! You might find this website an interesting read dude, Bill Sherwood's Home Page especially this page! 4AGE Info
  11. Well if these other companies brought they're service scheduals down to a sensible milage then they may become more reliable like Toyota's!! I think the other manufacturers are mad, expecting an engine to do 16-20k without an oil and filter change! Oil maybe alot more advanced compared to back in the day, but by 20k the oil has definately lost its viscosity and is seriously black and contaminated, which is no good for oil ways, bearings and also hydraulic timing chain tensioners and hydraulic tappets! There are lessons to be learnt by Japanese companies! And until these other companies do learn, they wont get a good name for themselves! Buy a Renualt if you want little servicing costs, but be asure that the car will be in the garage more often for warrenty repairs!
  12. The threaded bar which is the rod into the master cylinder isnt designed to adjust the clutch! It is designed to adjust the freeplay in the pedal! Nothing else! And then if your lucky you will have a pedal height adjuster on the opposite side of the pedal, but his doesnt adjust your clutch either, it is only for pedal comfort! Toyota clutches cant be adjusted! They are Hydraulic! Some clutches do bite at different point of the pedal though!
  13. Sounds like a quality mechanic! NOT!!!! Yeah bring it to me and i'll do it at a cheap rate! :D Ive worked as a mechanic for 7 years for Toyota! But it think its a bit of a trip form Ireland! :P lol No, theres not a quick fix if thats the fault mate! Id want to take the gearbox out again for peace of mind if the job was badly done!
  14. Well if the noise goes when you touch the clutch, then that sounds to me like the clutch release bearing is rattling against the clutch cover! Nothing serious, but if it is annoying you then the gearbox will have to come out again! Go back to the garage where you had it done, and tell them to sort it! Was the release bearing replaced when the clutch was done?? Should of been! Sounds like they havnt put enough grease on the pivot points of the clutch arm, which is what the release bearing is attached to!
  15. Ford type 9 5 speed fits, you just gotta buy the bellhousing, which is about £150, and buy a prop for about the same! Or you could use a gearbox out of a MA70 supra, they fit easier!
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