Patagualian

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About Patagualian

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  • Toyota Model
    Hilux 22re 1996
  1. Yes, that's about right: In changing the fuel filter you will eliminate any water content in the filter housing. Not familiar with what form yours actually takes....there may be no drain to speak of....replace the filter = eliminate the problem. A word of caution: The light may have been triggered by the "computer" based on time/travel, the light may have to be reset with the appropriate diagnostic tool. Or, try again on this forum: There may be a simple way of doing it, i.e. disconnect the battery for xx seconds, or something similar. Cheers, Steve.
  2. Wany, I have just answered your post: In I said to open the "small drain____", But it has deleted the word because, I suppose, it is the rude word for the male organ! Unbelievable censorship or what?......You will have to fill in the missing word for yourself! (Four letters...sounds like "dock".... It is quite the legitimate name for this component in the UK. Best laugh of the day!!! Regards Steve
  3. Wany................ Sounds like you have water in your fuel: There is a sensor which detects this fitted to the bottom of the fuel filter. (Fuel floats on water) At the very least you should drain this water off via the small drain ***** at the bottom of the fuel bowl of the filter housing. Then you may need to prime the filter....to replace the amount of water released with fuel.Replace the filter in due course. (The water is the result of condensation in the fuel tank: Quite normal, and is trapped, by design, in the bottom of the fuel filter bowl.) OK? Regards, Steve.
  4. Hi again Darrenk...yes, good point about the snow! Bad time of year for the starter to play up....guess you're in the Northern Hemisphere! Here in Chile buying new is very much a last resort...... As I said, I very much doubt the problem is terminal (No pun intended) and a simple, much cheaper, repair is the best option. At a guess, even a reconditioned starter would set you back the best part of £200.....And new? Best buy a lottery ticket! One test you could do, to eliminate external problems (such as gearbox interlocks) would be to connect a wire from the solenoid of the starter, the thin one on the piggy back "cylinder"....and touch it to the +ve post of the battery ..(Shift lever to Park of course!)..if the results are the same as when you try to key-start, then, as you surmise, the starter &/or solenoid are faulty.....but at least you now know it's worth the effort of taking it off. I'm not familiar with the 3.0 engine....Is access a pig? Again, good luck. Steve.
  5. Hi There Darrenk, Well, it sounds as if you have decided the starter is kaput......I would very much doubt that it is. The click sound could well be the solenoid trying to connect the battery to the motor. (A solenoid is merely a powered heavy duty switch.) If the contacts are pitted from years of arcing, they can be simply cleaned up. Starters are fairly simple to strip down & service yourself..... if you are up to removing & replacing there is no reason why you cant DIY. Another possibility is the carbon brushes are worn out, again, it is not rocket science to replace those. If you dont fancy it.....just take it to an auto-electric repair shop....they could probably turn round in the day for you, maybe even while you wait. I dont condone getting stuff from breakers...unless they are off write-offs & relatively new, otherwise you are buying a starter that might develop your problems within the week.....what's the point? You've shelled out your dosh & you end up doing the job twice. Toyota starters are well made and apart from the problems I mentioned, rarely give any trouble. Anyway, that's my bobs-worth. Good Luck. Steve.
  6. Hi Daragh, Well, it's been a few years since I worked on Automotive A/C......and certainly not on a 2008 vehicle, so, I may be way off beam here: But here goes! First stop is to confirm if your system has any gas in ..unfortunately, with your gas (R134a) you will need a set of gauges with special access valves/connectors. These are not cheap. On older cars, all the power for the A/C system had to come through a series of interlocks...safety switches if you like...these were pressure switches fitted in the low pressure (Suction) & high pressure (Discharge) lines.....they guarded against the obvious "Pressure Too Low" & "Too High" Scenarios....The low pressure switch also guarded against loss of refrigerant, which obviously is not desirable! But, identify the suction line: It is the bigger diameter of the two. If this switch is 'open'...it may be that you have lost the gas. On more modern cars it gets more complicated: There are sensors for just about every scenario you can think of! But,I would suggest you continuity check the various pressure switches you can identify in the gas lines.....but remember,one switch in the HIGH/DISCHARGE side will be to turn the condenser fan ON, so will be open under these conditions.....and it may be part of a three way switch.(Just to confuse the issue!) Check that you have some supply to at least one side of the switch.(Ignition & control switches 'ON')..(but remembering that this safety "chain" is obviously in series!Follow the colour coded wires from switch to switch) You could even bypass the switches to see if you get the A/C switch to light up....Mmmm? As I say, it's been a few years, but I hope this information can steer you some way to a solution. Cheers, Steve.
  7. Hi Andrew, If you're saying you have a manual gearbox: Then most probably the clutch is slipping: ie., replacement required.....gearbox out etc. If we're talking automatic gearbox: Check the fluid level as per your owners handbook(different boxes = different procedures) If the levelis ok, then suggest you unhitch the caravan (!) & see an Auto-Box specialist. Good luck. Regards. Steve.
  8. I suspect a mechanical fault: Not familiar with this model but 90% of shifts on Autos are a simple latching retract system.......operated by the handle button.(Rather like the handbrake setup.) Try accessing the top of the gearbox by remving the trim panels around the shift: You should be able to see then if the lever release button is having any effect at the lower end: You may be able to release the latch manually once you can see the mechanism. Good Luck!
  9. Hi there: Well, the battery light is there to show whether or not the battery is being charged: Various ways of doing that, sometimes, as Igor suggests it is done with a relay: I would agree, clean the contacts of that relay.(the fact that the problem developed over time would suggest that: Electronic failures are usually "instant" It's YES or NO.....logic 1 or 0.) Measure the terminal voltage of the batteries (I assume the two are in parallel? or is there some sort of changeover switch?) If the voltage on the battery posts is 13 volts with the engine running....the alternator is charging normally. (may be 14 or 14.5 just after starting, then dropping to 13 as the charge current falls, ie, as the battery "tops up".) Switch a few things on, like the lights, then the blower motor: if the voltage meter remains at 13, the charge circuit is ok......if it falls to, say, 11 volts or less: The battery light is doing its' job. You do have a charging fault. So although this test wont eliminate the light staying on, at least you can use the truck whilst you investigate further. From what you say: the fault is not the alternator itself. I wouldn't fancy forking out £500 either: A simple relay is a damn sighter cheaper! Good Luck!
  10. hello mate please investigate how does the relay live? it sometimes give you a trouble because it needs to be cleaned inside -- i meant contacts. Cheers/Igor
  11. Glad you sorted the "problem" It is indeed water known as condesate: The evaporator in the Air Con system, extracts moisture from the air: That's all it is. (Same as the water that forms on window glass.) Guess you'll sleep better now! Cheers.
  12. Hi James, Well, first off I would get it away from that Toyota Garage I find it unbelievable they are obviously just going to replace all the parts, like pump & injectors.....& just how contamninated fuel can damage the air-flow -meter is beyond my comprehension. In a nut shell: It's a rip-off. It'll pay you to have it lifted & taken to an independent diesel repair shop (ie. Not affiliated to Toyota) The injectors & pump should not be beyond redemption. These things happen on a daily basis to hundreds of vehicles without attracting outlandish bills like that. The fact that you yourself have managed to get it going & running normally until the "goo" re-appeared just goes to prove, I feel, no permanent damage has been done. Get the parts off & take them to a diesel injection overhaul shop, for cleaning/calibrating & meanwhile, obviously, flush out your tank. If I said "Send me 10% of your savings" (on parts alone)as a "thank you"....you'd be sending me a cheque for £350! Best o'luck.
  13. Probably the hardest part is figuring how the damn handles etc come off the door panel! Once you've got the panel off, carefully lift off the inner polythene liner to gain access to the largest of the several apertures in the inner door panel. Replacing the window is easy enough, a little care required is all. You didn't say whether you had manual or electric window winders. For manual you will need to remove the winding mechanism, usually three or four small bolts around the handle spindle. The arm of this will be attached to the bottom of the window (or bits of broken window in your case!) this metal "trough" should simply slide off the arm. You say you have a used replacement...?....then I assume it has this metal piece attached? Put the glass into the door: at first glance it looks impossible I know, but trust me, it'll go.....probably make the glass vertical, insert the top edge into the largest aperture, hold it there by inserting your other arm through another aperture, & carefully rotate the glass within the door to its correct orientation. There will be at least one removable glass guide within the door: remove this. Slide the glass into the other guide & raise the glass to about half way up. Support the glass in this position by a piece of 2"x 1" (wood) Refit the lower guide with its felt-like material. At this stage you should be able to raise & lower the window with your hand: Fully up & down without it sticking.(i.e. no bits of broken glass in the guides!) Insert the winding mechanism & locate the arm-end roller in the previously mentioned "trough". Now....raise or lower the glass whilst lining up the handle spindle through its original hole,the bolts are aligned in the same way, or, use the handle to rotate the mechanism until the holes align. Refit the 3or4 bolts. And that's it really. Electric window? Basically the same: mechanism out first, then glass in,support glass, then mechanism in & reconnect. Oh....& vacuum out the broken glass in the bottom of the door! Good Luck.
  14. Hi everyone...... Looking for some info on this problem: engine will start if I link Bat+ to Fp in Diagnosis sockets. Engine stops when removed. Where is the relevant relay, (which would appear from this to be at fault,) located? Also, Alternator running at 16volts (when finally started.) Internal regulator gone?