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syncview

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  • First Name
    OA
  • Toyota Model
    Toyota Corolla + Yaris 1.0L
  • Toyota Year
    2006
  • Location
    Other/Non-UK

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  1. An update - for those who may be interested P1252 error code was resolved by replacing the turbo driver ecu, apparently the one we tested with before was bad aswell and it made the problem run rings around us. But during the process we also learned that the three or six wires from the vnt lever position sensor also make p1252 popup if they are old (high resistance) and of course if one or two of them are disconnected.
  2. I would make sure that none of that gets on the brake rotor or brake caliper
  3. Its for a Hilux Surf 2004 with 1KD And its not that simple, I'm getting p1252 step motor for turbocharger control circuit (open/short) There is no open or short circuit in the wiring, the wiring loom has been checked twice - turbocharger replaced, map replace, maf replaced, engine ecu swapped with a good known ecu, turbo driver ecu swapped with a good known - nothing works - sometimes the error goes away and the vehicle runs fine, other times it won't even get cleared by a scantool which in the first place led me to believe that its a wiring problem, I have checked the canbus for noise as well using a scope to no avail
  4. Hi, sorry to dig an old thread - was the p1252 ever resolved?
  5. if there is no leakage then check the radiator cap, a bad radiator cap can cause coolant to boil as the system doesn't remain under pressure
  6. removing the CAT will render very little power gain, stock injectors for the 1zz are 270cc, no idea reg 4zz.
  7. Red battery lights there is a fault in the charging circuit, it could be a bad alternator, bad voltage regulator which is inside the alternator or simply a wiring problem..
  8. Clean the mesh and the oil control valve, both can be done easily. The mesh is something plastic so don't be too harsh on it. Ref the p0016, it is indeed a correlation error, in VVTi engines it is usually due to the tiny mesh being blocked OR the VVTi cam phaser / pulley getting stuck due to sludge in engine. One of the ways to go about it is use a nice synthetic engine oil and run your car like you stole it for atleast 30-40 minutes. If that doesn't work or its not possible for you then the only way to correct it is to remove the camshafts, remove the vvti phaser pulley and service / clean the pulley. It can also be dismantled but you have to be careful. What we do is mostly dip them in a degreaser or kerosene for about 2 hours then air flush the heck out of them.
  9. From the sound of it its probably the safety switch - which makes sure the starter won't run unless the clutch pedal is pressed. I would fix that, I personally love this feature.
  10. Ok, can you identify the fuse from the diagram? Is this the correct diagram for your car?
  11. I've used MOTUL several times at my shop, just make it sure its compatible with your car's transmission
  12. Yep, check specially the turbo to intake pipe / system, in a turbodiesel most of the times a hissing sound is produced, there is a small boost leakage.
  13. Can you post a pic of the fusebox and the fuse that blows up?
  14. blue smoke on startup usually means bad valve seals and in the most cases those are the bad exhaust valves seals
  15. even if the head is warped you can 'machine' it yourself get lots of 320 grit water proof sand papers a table on which a 12mm glass sheet is placed a supply of water while you drag the cylinder head on the sand papers until you straighten it out to check the straightness.. you need a straight edge and a feeler gauge.. and service manual for the procedure. :)
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