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Everything posted by syncview

  1. An update - for those who may be interested P1252 error code was resolved by replacing the turbo driver ecu, apparently the one we tested with before was bad aswell and it made the problem run rings around us. But during the process we also learned that the three or six wires from the vnt lever position sensor also make p1252 popup if they are old (high resistance) and of course if one or two of them are disconnected.
  2. I would make sure that none of that gets on the brake rotor or brake caliper
  3. Its for a Hilux Surf 2004 with 1KD And its not that simple, I'm getting p1252 step motor for turbocharger control circuit (open/short) There is no open or short circuit in the wiring, the wiring loom has been checked twice - turbocharger replaced, map replace, maf replaced, engine ecu swapped with a good known ecu, turbo driver ecu swapped with a good known - nothing works - sometimes the error goes away and the vehicle runs fine, other times it won't even get cleared by a scantool which in the first place led me to believe that its a wiring problem, I have checked the canbus for noise as well using a scope to no avail
  4. Hi, sorry to dig an old thread - was the p1252 ever resolved?
  5. if there is no leakage then check the radiator cap, a bad radiator cap can cause coolant to boil as the system doesn't remain under pressure
  6. removing the CAT will render very little power gain, stock injectors for the 1zz are 270cc, no idea reg 4zz.
  7. Red battery lights there is a fault in the charging circuit, it could be a bad alternator, bad voltage regulator which is inside the alternator or simply a wiring problem..
  8. Clean the mesh and the oil control valve, both can be done easily. The mesh is something plastic so don't be too harsh on it. Ref the p0016, it is indeed a correlation error, in VVTi engines it is usually due to the tiny mesh being blocked OR the VVTi cam phaser / pulley getting stuck due to sludge in engine. One of the ways to go about it is use a nice synthetic engine oil and run your car like you stole it for atleast 30-40 minutes. If that doesn't work or its not possible for you then the only way to correct it is to remove the camshafts, remove the vvti phaser pulley and service / clean the pulley. It can also be dismantled but you have to be careful. What we do is mostly dip them in a degreaser or kerosene for about 2 hours then air flush the heck out of them.
  9. From the sound of it its probably the safety switch - which makes sure the starter won't run unless the clutch pedal is pressed. I would fix that, I personally love this feature.
  10. Ok, can you identify the fuse from the diagram? Is this the correct diagram for your car?
  11. I've used MOTUL several times at my shop, just make it sure its compatible with your car's transmission
  12. Yep, check specially the turbo to intake pipe / system, in a turbodiesel most of the times a hissing sound is produced, there is a small boost leakage.
  13. Can you post a pic of the fusebox and the fuse that blows up?
  14. blue smoke on startup usually means bad valve seals and in the most cases those are the bad exhaust valves seals
  15. even if the head is warped you can 'machine' it yourself get lots of 320 grit water proof sand papers a table on which a 12mm glass sheet is placed a supply of water while you drag the cylinder head on the sand papers until you straighten it out to check the straightness.. you need a straight edge and a feeler gauge.. and service manual for the procedure. :)
  16. get a kit that tests for exhaust gases in the cooling system.. don't cost any more than 10usd.. confirm the presence then move ahead
  17. there is a water valve incorporated in the system too that allows flow of hot coolant into the heater core when the heater is turned on.. i don't know about avensis but in most pre 09 Toyotas the valve is actuated mechanically by a cable
  18. lets not worry about the 'missing' values for now there is no total FT#2 - only TOTAL FT#1 - it is the average of both LTFTs. looking at your graphs - specially the O2S Voltage - both B1 and B2 - are weird. as in, reeaallllly slow to respond. now, since both are not working as they should, I would see what is making these act like this OR what has killed them. What can kill them is coolant contamination - if you can one of those quick testers that you can put in your car's radiator to check the presence of combustion gases in the coolant system. I would also make sure and confirm that the EGR valve is not stuck open. Also, how many catalyst converters your car has?
  19. IIRC your car has a cable driven speedo the speed sensor must be a incorporated in the cable drive gear or a separate part - don't know really how it is on your car.
  20. yes clean the ocv and ocv filter regarding the limiter setting to 7k that is probably because the ecu thinks that you're in neutral.. check the vehicle speed sensor.
  21. need more information please how do you know that the lift system stops working? any DTCs set? What kind of accident have you been in? Why the chain needed to be replaced - make 200% sure that timing is OK and all marks align perfectly when the crank pulley is at #1 piston TDC 0.
  22. another thing for you to check: clogged EGR / stuck open... creating a vacuum leak
  23. i don't remember check the service manual
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