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Everything posted by A2KLAU

  1. Could have been a Vauxhaul Insignia VXR.. someone at work has one and on idle it's pretty loud let alone under load.. sounds pretty sweet!
  2. According to the calculator compared to the 17s on your car at the moment the only tyre sizes in 18inch that fall within 1% are 235/35/18, 215,40/18, 205/40/18 Its going to be difficult to go up in alloy size and get a high sidewall as the rolling radius will go up..
  3. This is the place you need to visit to see what tyre size you can get without your speedo reading way over or way under: http://www.kouki.co.uk/utilities/visual-tyre-size-calculator Just type in the original tyre size and then tweak it about until the second number is as close to the original to maintain accuracy :)
  4. The ones I use are called Good Year.. same makers who appear to make tyres as well, so assume they have some R&D department who deals with anything rubber :) I do agree that eBay ones can be hit or miss, thats why I chose a brand I can trust when it comes to rubber.. but then again to throw another spanner in the works I wouldn't be surprised that Toyota don't actually manufacture the wipers from their own factories but have an OEM contract to a third party supplier that supplies to other aftermarket companies as well..
  5. Just to throw a spanner in the works but whats wrong with turning the fan on in the cabin or even open a window? Also the high speed issue I'm sure wipers only start to bounce and judder at speeds close to the ton, and surely nobody here drives at those speeds to warrant wiper judder? I've never experienced my Good Year wipers judder at all even on a damp track day where I did hit speeds around the ton mark on the main straight with wipers in use.. but thats on a Accord Euro R, so I can't comment if there are any major differences to having it fitted to a Corolla.. but then again I can't imagine our 1.6 being taken on track.. I've used Bosch flats in the past and to be honest can't justify the much more expensive price due to short lifespan and cost compared to Good Year.. I'll be continueing to get these for as long as Costco will stock them :)
  6. The smaller the offset number the more "space" you get between the spoke and the hub. So if the standard offset is 35 then 25 will push the wheel out by 10mm on each corner. P.S The stud pattern is 4x100
  7. I currently use Good Year ones that I bought from Costco.. seem pretty decent and doesn't cost the earth, think they are £6 something each blade.. The Euro R has had them for at least the past 9 months and they work as well now as when I first got them so the Corolla got some at the weekend as well and can't fault them, unlike some eBay specials that I had in the past that cracked and went bad at the first sign of winter, these were put on before winter and lasted all the way =)
  8. Does sound intake related from the vids but quite clueless to what it could be.. My only advice is to check all piping thats associated to the intake system and find any splits or tubes that have come off..
  9. Sounds like they piggy backed the rear speakers, and it can potentially damage as the "daisy" chain of speakers will change the ohm (resistance) of the setup, I'm guessing it is being run as a parallel circuit and not series.. either way the head unit wasn't designed to power anything more than it was meant to, so in the long run it may short something out.. not recommend doing this!
  10. Any tubes that connect from the intake pipe to the throttle body, and any connected to the intake manifold. Failing that the only other thing I can think of is there being a crack in the plastic on the resonance boxes in the air box system..
  11. To answer the whistle question it could be something as simple as a vacuum hose thats come off, or there might be a split in one of those hoses thats causing air to leak.. but without actually hearing it its anyone's guess :(
  12. I'm with Madvinegar on this one, especially with the maths and diagrams worked out. Just by cutting the top all you are doing is making it harder to engage each gear but the throw will still be the same distance, you need to extend the bottom bit to multiply the effect of what you have done above the pivot point.. TTE wouldn't have poored thousands and thousands into R&D only to find that all that was required was just to chop the top off.. this design works for a reason and all decent short shifter kits I know on the market use this design..
  13. Excellent results mate! Looking at the pics they look fresh! Maybe stick some polish on it after you wash the car each time to give it some protection and prevent the dullness coming back must have some really toned arms from all that effort!
  14. Yeah if a drop link perishes at the joints it will make a knock sound when one wheel goes over a bump. Thats due to one wheel moving and the anti roll bar is preventing it.
  15. Agreed, nice balanced setup =) Power FC are awesome bits of kit, good value for money but shame they don't make them anymore from last I heard.. As for power extraction Toyota tuned these engines to a pretty high level to match Honda's offerings and they have done an awesome job, but with such highly tuned N/A engines extracting more power becomes very expensive.. if you go to the max it would pretty much result in the only stock thing in the engine would be the block itself.. forced induction would be the easier route to get more power but I would recommend lowering the compression a little.. high compression engines don't seem to like boost all that much..
  16. I'm sure Fensport should have the facilities to do it as they seem to know everything Toyota, but here local to Birmingham where I am from there are the boys at Rev It Road and Race with a dyno dynamic rolling road in Solihull, Thor Racing in coventry, or TDI North.. but if I ever had something like that in my car I would go to Rev It as I know a friendly chap down there :) Brand new Blue for £200 is pretty good price! Good stop gap before going full stand alone like an Apexi Power FC.. ah if only I had the money.. lol.. I'll just keep dreaming =)
  17. One thing that hasn't been mentioned is that if you are upgrading the size of disc and having larger calipers there is the added risk the existing master cyclinder won't be able to provide enough pressure/fluid to the larger piston in the larger caliper, so you may need to upgrade your master cyclinder size to a diesel/t-sport one to keep the system running sweet.. there is also the ABS to think about, since you have improved braking power the ABS system/software was writting for the existing braking system in mind, and it might not function properly when you might just need it.. For all the geeks out there who want to read an article about bigger brakes and ABS here is an article thats food for thought: http://www.teamscr.com/motorsports/tech-articles/38-abs-and-big-brake-kits.html
  18. Almost sounds like a tool was left in the engine bay and then fell out and clipped a few things on the way out. If there are no unsual sounds continuing from it then it sounds like whatever it was has gone..
  19. Is it the Blue or Black version? £200 for the Blue is about right second hand.. unless this is brand new!! Tuning it shouldn't be too much of a problem as most decent tuners will have the facilities to tune it :)
  20. Another fan of hte handling route! Looks really nice, so in the looks department you got it pretty spot on :) I don't suggest squeazing any more power out of the little 1.4 engine as this won't give you much bang for the buck. As said springs or coilovers and some form of bracing, especially on the front upper strut towers, that would be the first one I would go for and it will provide a noticable difference on cornering, it won't turn you into a hero, but it will defo provide more feel and control, even on standard suspension :)
  21. D2 from the world I come from (Honda) are notorious for being quite stiff, even on the softest setting, but they are great on smoth roads. BC Racing do offer a degree of comfort.. it depends on your budget for suspension.. do you go full on coilovers, or do you go for springs.. if its just springs my personal preference would be the Eibach Pro Kit, they have been deliberately designed to be used with OEM dampers, so won't kill them prematurely like other spring kits do, and most of them being progressive in design you won't sacrifice comfort but have the added benefit of better handling. Might be worth looking at anti roll bars as well.. not sure how common this upgrade is with Corolla's but maybe getting second hand front and rear anti-roll bars from the T-Sport.. I'm assuming the 1.4 didn't, or if it does, come with anti roll bars they won't be as beefy as the T-Sport, cheap upgrade :) Also wheel selection.. this is an area very commonly overlooked when modding.. you need to find the right balance of tyre width, profile, and the most important weight of the alloy itself. The lighter the alloy the more response you will get, less mass to move under acceleration, deceleration, and change of direction when turning.. also with fitting wide tyres on a smaller light weight car means it will like to tramline.. I suggest sticking with 16inch or smaller for your car and invest in some decent light weight alloys rather than go big, cheap and heavy.. I use this database when looking at alloys, it has alot of wheels from around the world, but its made for Americans so not all wheels would be included. http://www.wheelweights.net/ Have fun shopping :)
  22. With a short ram kit the Apex'i will defo make a nice induction sound.. but one thing to also balance out this argument is that a short ram kit will heat soak, I'm assuming the compressor doesn't come with a intercooler or charge cooler as standard so with compressing the air and heat soak you might be surprised to find that the only benefit you will get it in the induction sound department.. The AEM long ram that sits in a cold air position would be your best bet, and since that has cone type filter you should get the induction sound as well.. but they do cost quite alot more..
  23. Defo save it for something more performance orientated. The performance gains to be expected from a 1.4 will be little more than maybe 3-5BHP.. and as said might promote other problems with engine management when air intake or exhaust gas flow goes off the charts.. the engine is an economy engine at the end of the day so you can't force performance gains from it.. if you really must spend money then rather than do any performance mods go the handling route, spend it on decent tyres, uprate the brake discs and pads, go coilovers or for cheaper option Eibach Pro Kit, some forms of strut bracing, upper and lower, but since the Corolla isn't independent at the back it won't require a rear lower brace, but if you are lowering you may need to adjust the geometry.. having the right geometry setup can go a surprisingly long way :)
  24. Or find someone local on here with the kit to read ECU codes and give them some beer to kens. There is a sticky somewhere of people who can help :)
  25. Picked up EBC blank front and rear discs and EBC pads all round.. now to find time to actually fit them to the newly aquired Corolla
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