Chris Nutt

It certainly should have picked it up in your pocket. Check in the configuration menus (via the instrument pack) that the keyless system has not been disabled. Or maybe the battery in the fob is very low? Or that the keyless function on the fob has not been turned off (unlikely as single press on any of the fob buttons should have woken it up). Any few things to look at anyway…. Hope you can get it sorted out.

This was covered in a previous thread - and removing the bung is a recomendation from the Car Care Nut on You Tube. It sounds like it's best to leave the bung out to let the water drain away.

Definitely wrong. I had the CP upgrade at my last service and the original nav is still functioning. Very useful as a backup if you forget your phone! She is probably trying to avoid having to wrap in a free upgrade to your purchase. So push for it anyway!

You need to either only have the camera live when accessory or IGN is on - or have a “parking monitor” interface that turns it off after a couple of hours (I have a Garmin camera which offers this - I don’t know about the Nextbase). Do NOT have the camera always live. These cars have enough battery problems without any external assistance!

The Dome fuse (interior light) is a +12v feed and the P/Outlet fuse is live when Accessory is switched on.

No specific answer to this question, as we have no idea what your personal needs are. Go to a dealer, have a look at both versions and work out what you need from a car. Lowest price and no large items to carry and not many adults in the rear? - go for the HB. A bit more money to spend - or need to carry larger items - go for the TS. Personally I was moving from an Avensis estate - and have larger / longer items to carry for my business - so the TS was a no- brainer choice.

In my previous jobs I worked for a number of component suppliers to a number of car makers - including Toyota at Burnaston. When I decided to go self-employed the car I chose to buy was as a (used) Toyota. Why? - because Toyota was my most demanding customer. Components were tested to death - and no changes, no matter how small, were allowed without very thorough testing and approval. However, problems do sometimes occur, despite the best efforts of both Toyota and their suppliers. It’s not always due to cost cutting. Rest assured that the supplier of these bushes will have been put through the wringer to resolve the issue - most probably at a large cost to the supplier - both financially and in terms of reputation. But as we all know, s…. happens. And it’s how you resolve the issue that is important.

Fully agree with Graeme. TBH, I wasn’t in the fortunate position of being able to afford a new car - and the engine choice was a low priority - so I went for a trim level, colour and price that suited me. In my case I ended up with the 1.8 - which I have found to be more than adequate for the motoring I do these days. Conversely, if I put myself back 15 years ago when I was doing a lot of long distance motorway driving (about 30k pa) then I’m sure the 2.0 would have probably been a better choice. As always, it a case of horses for courses.

This is my cover - the fusing looks substantially the same as yours. Mine is a 1.8 TS Excel. I used piggy back fusing on the Dome and P/Outlet fuses to get the +12v and IGN feeds. Neither are critical loads (unlike ECU feeds etc). I then stuck the cover back onto the plastic footwell shield with some velcro so that it can be used for reference. Hope it helps.

I remember cars I had in the 90’s and naughties had a warning in the cluster when the washer fluid was low. And I’m not talking about premium cars - just normal rep mobiles. It looks like these have been removed from more recent cars - another cost cutting exercise I assume. Not great when a working washer is a legal requirement.

You have to try really hard to pay over £150 - Even for an premium 18 inch tyre! Most are £100-£140. Tyres on the Drive are my normal supplier.

Just be aware that tyre and alloy insurance often have claim value limits. When a pothole wrote off a wheel it was only covered for £150. The new rim cost £352. The tyres also had a value limit, however it’s not many Corolla tyres that will cost over £150 each…..

If you did, good luck in finding your way out of the shop….

Just done this exact mod to my TS. Many thanks to the OP - KIMURA TD - for the insight. I’ve hard wired the adaptor (via an inline lighter socket) to a piggy back fuse in the under dash fuse box making a neat installation with minimal wiring visible.

Yes, in the bottom of the well you will see a slightly raised "dimple". Cut a small hole on this and you will find the retaining thread in the boot floor.