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philip42h last won the day on January 22

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About philip42h

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  1. This site suggests that "the width measurement of 1855 millimeters corresponds to the width of the Toyota RAV4 2019 without exterior mirrors" - i.e. it implies that the mirrors are extra!
  2. I'm less sure of the "too many options" bit Mike - but maybe I lack imagination! 🙂 Ruth, You appear to be saying that when cruising along, presumably in top gear, there is an increase in revs without a corresponding increase in speed. This means that something must be slipping somewhere. With an automatic, that could mean an issue with the torque converter, but with a manual you are pretty much limited to slippage at the clutch or at the wheels - I can't really think where else it could be (others might). You'd get slippage at the wheels if the car were aquaplaning or otherwise running across a very slippery surface - but I rather suspect that you'd have noticed that ... You would typically expect to encounter clutch slippage, accompanied by appropriate squealing when you pull away from rest or otherwise change up when torque is at a maximum. So as you say, it doesn't seem to be that. The only other cause that I can think of off the top of my head is the driver resting a left foot a little too heavily on the clutch pedal ... ?
  3. No, but I'm not too sure how that might help. The ECU is programmed to know about the four specific TPMS valves that are installed onto the wheels of that specific car. These valves regularly alert the ECU that everything is OK in terms of pressure within the corresponding tyre. The TMPS warning light will come on if one or more of those signals is absent for a period of time - and will automatically go out again once normal pressure is restored. So, you will get the TPMS warning light on if any of the following conditions apply: A tyre pressure is low A TPMS valve is removed from the car - e.g. a different wheel or set of wheels is used The TPMS valve is damaged - as perhaps when a tyre is replaced 'carelessly' The battery in the TPMS valve runs flat - typically after more than five years I assume that you have checked condition 1 and I doubt that the batteries should be flat on a 2017 car. Could any of the others apply? Replacement of a TPMS valve is a main dealer job - they would need to programme the identity of any new valve into the ECU - though I'm sure somewhere, someone knows how that might be done by an owner! If all four TPMS valves are good and the tyre pressures are good there is a little button (placed invisibly under the steering wheel) that can be used to reset the system to recognise a new set of 'correct' tyre pressures. The 'how to' is described in the handbook.
  4. Quite correct ... I live half-way up a hill in Wales - when we have a decent snowfall, I need cold weather tyres in order to be able to get up, and more importantly safely down, the hill. This applies for only 2 or 3 weeks and not every year at that. The rest of the time a 2 wheel drive vehicle on standard summer tyres driven with care will suffice just fine. A 4WD RAV will probably get up on standard tyres anyway - cold weather tyres are far more important for getting down safely. If you run two sets of tyres - summer and cold weather - you probably want to switch to your winter set around 1st November and not back to your summer set until around 1st May. Whether the switch over temperature is 7 or 10 degrees C is rather academic - below 5 degrees you are better off on cold weather rubber; above 15 degrees you are better off on summer compounds; in between either will suffice perfectly well. And the temperature in the UK seems to spend most of the year fluctuating between temperatures in the range during the day. All season tyres are a better bet for the vast majority of the year. As you say, you are rather stuck with whatever Toyota / your dealer are going to supply - and it's high time that Toyota supplied the RAV on all season tyres ... The tyres on a RAV will last for around 50k miles or around 5 years whichever comes first. If you have two sets of tyres (as I do) they will last for around 100k miles but still only 5 years (or so) - there's little point in running around on a time expired cold weather compound. So, if you are doing around 20k miles a year or more having summer and winter tyres will cost you nothing; if you are doing less than 10k miles a year having two sets of tyres strikes me as an 'extravagance'. So, my preference would be for all season tyres and replace them for a new set when they get worn or old ... but it's just my opinion. 😉 Edit: oh, and, that's a decent price from your local Mr T. My nearest dealer is over 20 miles away and my local indie charges around twice that!
  5. Indeed, Contis are great winter tyres in practice too ... but in the UK (bar the north of Scotland) we really only need them for a couple of weeks a year if that. Five years ago when I bought them there weren't any viable alternatives (and I needed cold weather tyres for a trip to Germany in the middle of winter). These days there are many good all season tyres that are fully certified for winter use so I'd save money and hassle and go for those instead.
  6. I use Conti Winter Contacts ... but when I replace them I will switch to a premium all season tyre to avoid the hassle of swapping twice a year. In the UK an all season tyre (with proper winter performance) is far more sensible as a year round solution,
  7. I quoted details from the US website ( which indicated that the hybird is 'coming soon' and doesn't give pricing for the hybrid (that I could find). It looks as though the US will get a range of petrol-engined models plus an AWD hybrid in due course (soon). I'm certain that the reviewers had access to 'pre-launch' cars and am somewhat sceptical of anything they write. For example, in the latest What Car review of cars "coming soon" to the UK in a very short piece they highlight the fact that "Toyota has upgraded the RAV4’s four-wheel drive system and introduced a new Trail mode that uses a limited-slip control system to regain traction over uneven terrain" ... which is available on certain petrol-engined RAVs in the US but not on hybrid RAVs anywhere - and we're getting only hybrid RAVs in the UK for now at least!
  8. Your $34,900 will indeed get you an AWD Limited with all the toys you suggest (though I haven't actually checked line by line). What it won't get you is any electric drive motors or drive battery. That price is for a 2.5L 4-cylinder petrol engine - the hybrid isn't yet available in the US (coming soon!)
  9. philip42h

    Tire Advice

    The original Bridgestone Dueler H/T 687 are still available - in the UK, at least. On some models they were fitted in conjunction with the Bridgestone Support Ring (BSR) to provide a run-flat capability. While this may well not apply to a 2010 RAV from South Africa it is something to double check. You can, of course, simply replace the two worn tyres, with tyres of the same spec as the originals (but different make model). Ideally the replacements would go onto the same axle as has already been suggested. I would put the new tyres onto the rear, moving the older, more worn, tyres to the front. There are two reasons for this: I was advised that the average driver can cope better with potential under-steer (i.e. when the front tyres loose grip) that over-steer should the rear tyres loose grip - so 'grippier' tyres are better placed on the rear. Putting the worn tyres at the front will tend to ensure that they are worn out first - and thus give you a better chance of "wearing them out" before they become time expired.
  10. Indeed ... it also means that MG1 can act as a generator to recharge the battery while MG2 continues to be available as a motor to assist the petrol engine. I believe Lawnmowerman's post may be confusing ... the petrol engine can be connected to the transmission / drive through the planetary gear set 'independently' of MG1 so that the vehicle can driven via the petrol engine, optionally assisted via MG2. Equally, the engine can be stopped (switched off) and the vehicle can be operated in EV mode (over short distances) driven by a combination of MG1 and MG2. And various combinations in between. And, of course, in the AWD versions there an additional MG3 to drive the rear axle (but no prop-shaft to provide assistance from the petrol engine itself). I think ... 😀
  11. Only after the door has 'hit' the obstacle I suspect ... same as when it's closing. It won't just power on regardless and will almost certainly pause, back-off a bit and stop. That's what it does when closing on an over stuffed boot. I have never actually tried, and don't intend trying, opening without sufficient space .... 🙂
  12. Really? OK, a 4 wheel drive vehicle provides twice the amount of traction as a 2 wheel drive vehicle, or, perhaps more usefully, is twice as likely to find traction and half as likely as a 2 wheel drive vehicle to get stuck in slippery conditions. There is a penalty to pay for driving all four wheels is terms of weight and 'complexity' which results in marginally higher fuel consumption - though since the rear drive on a 4.5 is electric that penalty isn't too bad at all. RAV4 used to stand for Recreational Activity Vehicle with 4 wheel drive - 4 wheel drive was an essential part of the point of a RAV4. Folk who don't need / want 4 wheel drive might well be better off looking at a Corolla or Camry as a better vehicle for standard road use ...
  13. I thought that it was supposed to be shorter that a 4.4? Or at least that's what I recall reading in one of the earlier announcements ... but checking you are quite correct: 30mm longer, 10mm wider and 15mm taller it would appear. But we really need to see the two parked side by side - things do look huge in the showroom. Still no sign of demonstrators in my part of the world. Still not expecting to see AWDs before May. And I'd be pretty sure that they'd all come by sea ... Google suggests 6 to 8 weeks door to door plus paperwork time. I suspect that Toyota have the later pretty much off pat so, maybe, not too much to add ...
  14. There was a post from Devon Aygo back in 2015 that may (or may not) be useful - it identified which engines went into which RAV4 model years. I'm no mechanic so take anything I say with a pinch of salt ... I'm pretty sure that any of the engines will physically fit - it's just a case of how many ancillary components you'd need to 'upgrade' at the same time. The only real "straight swap" would appear to be a 2.2 D4D 136bhp (called the 2AD-FTV) engine from 2005-2009. A 2.2 D4D 148bhp 2AD-FTV from a Manual transmission RAV4 from 2009 / 2010 might be a viable alternative having neither DPF nor D-CAT (DPNR) emmissions reduction technology added though I've genuinely no idea what other components may need to be swapped. Anything later will have DPF or D-CAT.
  15. Well there you go - last time I looked you couldn't even build and price the AWD version! (Yes, you can now.) I enquired at my local dealer on Thursday last when they expected to have a demonstrator in and they just didn't know - April or May they thought ... Do you have a delivery date? Do let us know what you think of it when it arrives ... 🙂