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philip42h last won the day on January 22 2019

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About philip42h

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    RAV 4.5 Excel AWD 2.5 HEV
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  1. The SR180 D-CAT engine is likely to be identical to that fitted to the earlier T180 so the associated risk will be pretty much the same. My 2009 registered SR180 housed an engine built in 2008 and so could not be considered free of that risk. It's also worth noting that it never gave me any trouble at all ... 😉 At least you know where you stand and can make an informed decision ...
  2. ... and, if it is any help, here is the PDF: T-SB-0095-20.pdf
  3. Rear parking sensors should activate only when reverse gear is selected and be inactive the rest of the time. Speed isn't relevant to rear parking sensors. I drove a 2013 D-CAT auto for seven years. It had both front and rear parking sensors. For the rears there was a switch inside the boot to disable them when towing to stop them from alerting you to the trailer or anything else carried on the back. Since I didn't tow etc. I never had to disable them other than to prove the system worked. The fronts had a switch just forward of the gear selector. These had to be disabled all the time, ex
  4. I rather doubt that the engine will start if the fob is outside at the back of the car but it will most certainly stop - with load beeping - as soon as the key fob is out of range! (I tried getting out of the car, leaving the engine 'running', to post a letter with the key in my pocket - silly me ...)
  5. It all depends on what you mean by Geolander. The RAV used to be fitted with Yokohama Geolandar G91s as original equipment (rather than Bridgestone Duelers) and there are good reviews of the G91s - but they are not all terrain tyres - like the Bridgestones they are what would be described as Highway Terrain tyres. I guess that you'd be looking at Yokohama Geolandar A/T G015s as an all terrain option and there's absolutely no reason why you shouldn't if that's what you want. Knobby AT tyres will be somewhat noisier on the road and many of us are looking for the quieter on road compromise.
  6. If we are talking about a 2008MY XTR Auto then the gear-box is a 4-speed conventional torque converter box. That coupled with the 2.0 vvti engine is reckoned to be pretty bullet proof. The only 'issue' will be fuel consumption - expect around 30 mpg if you are careful / lucky. The XT-R has a tyre repair kit - as does the XT4 and XT5. The XT3 has a full size spare on the back door. The SR180 is on BSR run-flats ... I wouldn't run AT tyres unless I was never going to run it on the road! Instead I'd go for good All Season SUV tyres certified for winter use over most of the UK. If you li
  7. A 2011 car would be a 4.3.5 with the first generation of the 150bhp diesel engines and yours wouldn't be the first of those we've heard of with this sort of problem. At ten years and over 100,000 miles any car could blow a head gasket and if oil consumption is modest you might be able to extend the life of the car by 'simply' replacing the head gasket. But you'd need a competent mechanic to do this. If the head does need to be skimmed you can get thicker gaskets to maintain clearance between the pistons and the head. That wouldn't cost anywhere near €12k but might still be money wasted ..
  8. Dippy's reply above refers to this article: And, as stated, the problem was reported resolved in production in 2008 / 2009. By 2010 Toyota had updated to the 150 bhp diesel and, for a while, we believed all was well - but there have since been reports of a very similar sounding issue affecting later 4.3s. Yours would be the first 4.4 I recall hearing with this issue - so, basically, exactly what Dippy said. I must admit that I thought that the engine block was good old cast iron, but that the head is probably alloy - I no longer have one so I can't pop out and chec
  9. If I were to guess - because I certainly don't know - I'd note that the RAV4.4 came with either 17" or 18" wheels, and suspect that the smaller of the discs was appropriate to the 17" wheel while the larger was appropriate to the 18" wheel ... possibly? Edit: The technical specs state: Front (diameter x thickness, mm) Ventilated discs 296 x 28 Alternatively, you could, perhaps, just measure the diameter of the existing discs ... 😉
  10. Ah, well as Frosty said: The jump start point is clearly designed for, and man enough, for the job. All we are doing as part of the "jump start" procedure is toping-up the battery sufficiently to get the electronics going. As you will know, there's no starter motor to turn over with the 12V system which is why the hybrid can get away with such a puny 12V battery in the first place. The owners manual states: ■ Before recharging: When recharging, the 12-volt battery produces hydrogen gas which is flammable and explosive. Therefore, observe the following precautions before rech
  11. I'm not entirely sure what you meant by "12v accessory voucher" but the 12v accessory sockets are live only when the ignition is 'on' so an attempt to use a charger while the ignition is 'off' will not be effective. In the 4.5 there is a convenient jump start / trickle charge point under the bonnet which is much easier to access. I believe the same is true of the 4.4 hybrid.
  12. It used to be the case, and may well still be, that the fitted side steps got in the way of fitting mud flaps to the front wheel arches. Your dealer will know whether there is an issue. Some members 'adapted' the front mud flaps to fit ... With my SR180 I had side steps fitted - they made excellent mud flaps but otherwise got in the way. With my 4.4 and 4.5 I've stuck with the mud flaps - but the side steps would probably have made a better job of keeping the side clean ... 😉
  13. Exactly so, and which is the case at low speeds anyway - its not a physical diff lock as such but an electronic preference setting. But my point was / is that I never found a situation in which I needed to press the button - the system worked amazingly well in 'normal' mode anyway - and I did try!
  14. I suspect that you may well be correct Chris - and what I wrote previously was mostly wrong ... I was basing my expectations on experience of a diesel powered 4.3 and 4.4 ... The AWDi / E-Four automatically applies power to the rear axle when conditions require. So there is nothing that the driver needs to do the engage AWD mode. But this really means having two driven axles - and therefore four driven wheels. And that's all that most of us will need 99% of the time. But, in a 4.4 hybrid when one wheel looses traction on a very slippery surface or by being lifted into the air all the
  15. I'm not entirely sure that I can see the need for Trail mode ... supposedly it tells the car to allow the wheels to spin a little more than it otherwise would. Useful if you've got a slew of stones and gravel over an otherwise firm surface so that the spinning wheels can shift them out of the way in order to find better grip lower down. I'll try it the very next time I'm on such a gravel trail - or not, as the case may be. Earlier RAVs like my 4.3 and 4.4 came equipped with a 'Diff Lock' button to make the car behave a little more like a permanent four wheel drive - I never found a use fo
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