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philip42h last won the day on January 22

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About philip42h

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  1. It's in the RAV4 Club Forum ... 🙂 ... but that would explain the misunderstanding 😉
  2. They wouldn't be my choice - they are summer tyres I think? As mid-range, better value tyre, one of our number swears by Vredstein Quatrac 5s ...
  3. When Toyota introduced the T180, they removed the spare wheel carrier from the rear door, eliminated the spare wheel, fitted wheels and tyres equipped with the Bridgestone Support Ring (their run-flat system) and fitted a Tyre Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS). A great idea in principle, and it worked well in practice (I had to make use of mine twice) but otherwise a bit of a disaster. It only ever appeared on the T180 and SR180 and required an expensive piece of kit in order to change the tyre - you had to go to a Toyota main dealer, not all dealers had the kit and almost none of the normal tyre shops did. You were then restricted to a single brand and size of tyre - the Bridgestone Dueler H/T 687 with the BSR logo (you can get Bridgestone Dueler H/T 687 without the BSR logo just to add to the confusion). The picture below shows an original T180 / SR180 18" sport alloy shod with a 235/55 R18 Bridgestone Dueler H/T 687 tyre. You should be able to make out the BSR logo on the side-wall at about the five o'clock position: It didn't take folk too long to decide they wanted shot of the system and the Bridgestone / Toyota lock-in ... One option, and possibly the best option, is to have the BSR ring removed (either via a dealer equipped with the machine or by a "tyre fitter who knows how to use an angle grinder to cut it off), carefully preserving the TPMS valves so that the TPMS system continues to function properly. Another option is to replace the wheels - either with suitable after-market wheels or original Toyota wheels - the 17" wheels from an XTn RAV fit and have nominally the same rolling radius as the 18" wheels originally fitted. The problem with this option is once the TPMS valves disappear along with the 18" wheels originally fitted the TPMS system will continuously warn of low pressure. (The same issue occurs it owners want to fit winter wheels.) Owners could either ignore the warning light or "snip the pink wire" to disable the light. (You can search the forum for threads on this topic.) While that was possibly OK at the time, I believe the MoT rules have been tightened to required that any OEM fitted TPMS is tested and working as it should ... As an aside, any early and original TPMS valve is likely need replacement soon if not already replaced since the batteries are supposed to last only around five years. Replacement TPMS valves will need to programmed into the ECU. After market / non-original wheels can of course be fitted with replacement TPMS valves - again these will will need to programmed into the ECU.
  4. Post from 2008 giving specs for T180 wheels: - always 18" wheels as far as I can recall ... (The 4.3 XTn versions came on 17" rims)
  5. The BSR run flat system consists of the Bridgestone Support Ring (a steel band fitted between the wheel and the tyre) and exactly one specific type of tyre (a variation on the Bridgestone Dueler). So, if the BSR system is still fitted you have two choices: Find and fit Bridgestone Duelers complete with the BSR logo Find someone who can remove the support ring and fit standard tyres I don't think anyone will recommend option 1! 🙂 If you go option 2, you will then want to either carry a spare or get a "pump and gunk" solution. Personally, I run Michelin Cross Climates but other good quality all seaon tyres are available ... Given that I live in an area with "country lanes, which may have a bit of mud on them or not be gritted in the winter", I wouldn't use anything less ... 😉
  6. The standard wheels/tyres on a T180 were 235/55 R18s ... Do you still have the Brdgestone Duellers with the BSR runflat system fitted? That somewhat influences what you want / need to do next ...
  7. Hi Andy, It might be a good idea for you to update your profile to show more exactly which RAV4 you have - I'm assuming that it's the 140 bhp 2.2L D4D engine, so probably an XTR, manual (?) but that's just a guess. The triumvirate of lights is not uncommon, but don't mean quite what they initially seem to imply. To quote from our friends in RAC World in the USA: - i.e. the engine light is lit because there is some kind of an issue and the VSC and 4x4 lights are lit because the engine light is ... you simply need to read the stored code and act on that. ... which it appears you have. I'm not too sure of the sequence of events, but it appears that you have had the EGR replaced but that doesn't appear to have resolved the issue. And now Toyota are suggesting changing it again. Assuming that the correct part was correctly fitted it really shouldn't need changing again ... The D4D engine is prone to a build-up of carbon and doesn't really like large numbers of short runs. It would be interesting to know the profile of your journeys? And what fuel you have been using - they do run better / cleaner on premium diesel that contains additives to try to keep the engine 'cleaner'? As a next step, more in hope than real expectation, I'd add a bottle of additive aimed at EGR cleaning (Millers, Archoil, Wynns etc.), top the tank with premium fuel, and take the car for a good long run - keeping the revs relatively high so as to give it a decent chance of burning off the muck ...
  8. Manuals are available online ( 2019 RAVs appear to have an Owners Manual, a Navigation Manual and a Radio Equipment Directive
  9. Back in the day when I drove a FWD car and tyres on the front wore out after 10-15k miles I'd wear out the fronts, move the rears to the front and put a new pair at the rear. Initially because the company car lease company insisted it be done that way and subsequently because it made economic sense to me. In the last ten years for driving a AWD RAV I have found a couple of key differences: While the do front tyres do wear slightly faster than the rears the difference in wear rate is markedly smaller than on a FWD car I have been getting something like 50k miles out of a set of tyres as opposed to 10-15k While I was running separate sets of summer and winter tyres, I would swap front to rear once a year (for each set) as I swapped between the seasons - well why not? Now I am running all season tyres I may consider swapping front and rear once a year (certainly no more frequently) simply to even out the wear. But I suspect that the decision really turns on how many miles you do in a year or in the time you expect to own the car. If you are doing modest mileages, the tyres will become time expired before they wear out. At higher mileages you may well want to swap front and rear to get best value out of the tyres. At higher mileages still you might choose to wear out the fronts so as to change just one pair at a time. Does that help at all? ... I'm pretty sure that it doesn't ... 😄
  10. Maybe not, but Lexus is Toyota's premium brand commanding a premium price so the UX will never really compete with the CHR even though they have identical platforms. The true competition for the CHR would be similarly smaller SUVs such as the Mazda CX3 ... which is available in AWD form at a competitively reasonable price. It is, of course, a decision for Toyota ... 😉
  11. The RAV 4 has traditionally had around a 10 litre 'reserve'. Both my 4.3 and current 4.4 have 60 litre tanks - if I drive until I have zero range remaining, the needle is off the bottom of the gauge and keep on driving, I'd stll never be able to get much more that 50 litres in. It would appear that that tradition continues with the 4.5 ... Enjoy! 🙂
  12. The standard space saver for a RAV 4.3 or 4.4 is a 17'' steel wheel with a 165/80 D17 tyre. This has the 'same' (or near enough the same) rolling radius as the 235/55 R18s fitted as standard to our cars. I don't know about the Lexus RX 350 but suspect it uses the same ...
  13. philip42h

    2008 D4D

    Ah, so the answer is, almost unbelievably, 'no' - those switches are not supposed to be illuminated ...
  14. Bearing in mind the fact that I know nothing, and drive a diesel, I understand that Toyota use nickel-metal hydride batteries in their self charging hybrids ... and are, perhaps, considering the introduction of lithium-ion technology into the plug-in versions ... ?