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philip42h last won the day on January 22 2019

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About philip42h

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    RAV4 Icon D-CAT Auto
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  1. The key symptom of the issue alluded to in CharlieFarlie's guide that leads to "carbon build-up on the pistons" is excessive oil consumption - specifically as stated by Toyota: Oil consumption worse than 0.5 litre per 621 miles (1,000 km). Is you car suffering from excessive oil consumption? Specifically, bearing in mind the fact that it has done 154,000 km and therefore things won't be quite as tight a fit as they were when the car was newer. If you have such excessive oil consumption then changing the head gasket won't fix the problem and you are probably better off cutting your losses. If you don't have excessive oil consumption then the problem could well be just a failed head gasket - any car at higher mileages could suffer a failed head gasket - and it may well be worth the cost of a repair. Now, as your technician has told you, the clearance between the pistons at the top of the cycle and the head is small. So, if you have to skim the head to obtain a flat surface to seal with the gasket there is a risk that the pistons will indeed hit the top - which would be 'bad'. Thicker gaskets are available to address this problem - the thicker gasket adds back the depth of clearance removed by skimming the head. It is a little worrying that your technician doesn't seem aware of this but maybe something has been lost in translation ... Disclaimer: I'm a largely theoretical mechanic (these days at least) and I only know what I do from following the posts on this forum and others. There are other posters on here who have a much better understanding of the practical issues of a head gasket replacement and hopefully one of them will be along to give further advice. Edit: Here's a post that might be worth a read:
  2. I guess that contaminated fuel could do for a fuel pump and all four injectors in one go, but that's only a wild guess. It might help others to respond if you were to let us know: What engine are we talking about here? When did the problem first occur? How was the car behaving and what were your journey profiles immediately prior to the problem occurring? Toyota do a decent extended warranty - typically two years for the price of one - which might have been a good investment last November. Way too late to help you now but it may be helpful for others to note ...
  3. US models are built in Canada. While I've no idea / inside information I guess that numbers of plug-ins vs standard hybrid cars will be determined by estimated market demand and possibly battery availability. AFAIK all UK cars come from Japan - we still have no idea on specs, or price, let alone volumes. And then there's the Suzuki Across to factor in to the consideration (not to mention the Covid-19 effect). My understanding is that UK dealers will give priority to owners of seven year old diesel RAVs ...
  4. You could start somewhere like here: and click through for all the details. Basically any Double Din unit will fit, but you will likely need adapter cables to make it work and probably want facia fill pieces to make it look neat.
  5. Yes indeed ... the pictures of the Across within the report show 'filler flaps' on both sides! It does seem an 'odd' decision ... ?
  6. If the battery was new in February, the battery should be fine - just, probably rather flat ... Starting it up and going a short distance may not even put back the charge you used to start it so a much longer run is in order to get the battery fully charged again. Better still get someone with a trickle charger to put it on charge for 24 hours (if you can) and it should then be fine ... 🙂
  7. Take a look at charliefarlies-guide-to-the-toyota-2ad-diesel-engine-and-its-issues to check the symptoms and hope that they don't match your experience - that would be bad news ... but it's somewhere to start ...
  8. philip42h

    Advice needed

    The standard space saver for a RAV 4.3 or 4.4 is a 17'' steel wheel with a 165/80 D17 tyre. I don't believe that Toyota ever provided space saver spares for the 4.3, but they do for the 4.4, and the wheels on a 4.3. and 4.4 are the same in terms of fit. It doesn't make any difference what size wheels your car came with - they all have the same rolling radius. Note that the space saver spare is a "get you home" wheel good for no more than 50 miles and at no more than 50 mph ... There are plenty available online, although the prices are sometimes silly, and there are perfectly valid alternative sizes that still have more or less the same rolling radius that are fit for purpose as a "get you home" spare.
  9. Toyota's answer is on this page. The traction battery will not significantly discharge when the car is not in use. When switched on, the engine will run to charge the traction battery as needed so you don't actually need to drive any miles. So pedantic answer to your question would be zero! 🙂 A hybrid RAV has a puny auxiliary battery that will discharge through use while the car is not in use and, if excessively discharged will prevent the car from starting - they are needed to prime the car's systems prior to starting rather than actually start the car but the effect is the same. Toyota's advice is: "For Hybrid vehicles – the 12V auxiliary batteries are not used to start the engine, however, they are considerably smaller than those in conventional vehicles, so again 1 hour in “ready” mode once or twice a week should be enough to keep the 12V battery topped up through this difficult period. If you have a 12V battery trickle charger, or a solar panel charger, and are confident using them, then these are a good option to keep the battery fully charged whilst the vehicle is stationary for a period of time." Personally, I'd go for the trickle charger option if i could - as I do with my diesel! 😉
  10. Does this thread help? Again, maybe not exactly the same engine ...
  11. How long have you had the car and what are you comparing it to? This has been raised a number of times; I had a 2009 D-Cat that behaved similarly ... It's a 'design feature'. You just have to 'learn' how to use the box properly - make sure that the clutch is fully depressed (I suspect that it is!) and pause for a fraction of a second in neutral - i.e. make the gear change in two steps rather than one ...
  12. There's not much wrong with a 2013 RAV4.4 2.2D. Mine's an automatic - the gear change is very smooth and it drives well. Toyota did have significant issues with the 2.2 2AD diesel between 2006 and 2009 but these were largely resolved by 2010 so you shouldn't have worries in that regard. However, it is a modern diesel 'blessed' with various emission control devices - if you are doing higher mileages (e.g. a 100 mile trip down the motorway every week or so) then it will be fine; if you are doing low mileages and a lot of stop start pottering around town it will get sooted-up and you'll notice the regen cycles - and if they become noticeable the car needs to be doing more miles. Either way, the engine runs best on premium diesel - the brand doesn't really matter but the additives do. If you plan on doing lower mileages a petrol (or hybrid) will be a better bet.
  13. As I understand, with earlier RAVs it has been relatively straightforward to remove the glovebox which probably makes access to that particular fuse box more straightforward. And, again on earlier RAVs, the 12v auxilliary socket is not live until the ignition is turned on ... just in case ... 😉
  14. Yes, searching can be a bit of a dark art ... if you search for "bumper paint" (sic - in quotation marks) and select This Forum you'll find the posts you are, probably, looking for - including your own ... 😉
  15. That question has been asked on here a number of times - you can search for previous posts - but the answer previously given is 196 ...