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philip42h last won the day on January 22

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    RAV4 Icon D-CAT Auto
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  1. Your choice of tyre should really depend on how you intend to use the car. If 80% of your use will be off road then AT tyres might be a good choice. But they won't give particularly good traction in winter - OK on soft snow, pretty useless on ice or wet roads for that matter. While I have never run AT tyres, I understand from those that have that they are noisier and less comfortable than more road oriented tyres when on road. For most of us, at least 80% of our motoring is on road so an all season, SUV, tyre is probably the best bet - especially now that there is such a wide choice to choose from. Michelin Cross Climates are a good choice and are certified for winter use (they have the 3 peak mountain and snow flake symbol) but there are others (such as the Nokian Weatherproof) that are equally well suited to winter use and have a perhaps more aggressive looking tread pattern if that is what you are looking for ... I run Cross Climates but other tyres are available as they say!
  2. Some seem to be getting a bit hung up on the 'moose' - we're unlikely to come across many of those on UK motorways! The test is simply to see how the vehicle behaves during a high speed evasive manoeuvre - and the new RAV doesn't appear to perform that well. In a previous car I had two 'bad' experiences of this kind before I simply got rid of the car. The first was when exiting the M25 (IIRC) when some ******* decided to leave the motor after missing the exit and use the piece of road I was in. An evasive manoeuvre was required to avoid getting side-swiped ... and to say that the car became 'unsettled' would have been a major understatement. The second was on a country lane when an oncoming car came around the corner 'at speed' and on the wrong side of the road. The incidents were 'memorable' because I pretty much lost control of the car through the manoeuvre and it took a worrying amount of time to settle down again. Braking wouldn't have help at all in either case. Note that the car in question wasn't a RAV but my faith in it was shot to the extent that I wasn't going to give it a third chance! So, a car should be capable of making an emergency lane change, safely, at motorway speeds - and the new RAV doesn't appear to accomplish that as well as it should ...
  3. 'Automatic' switches on the air conditioning (which will tend to dry the air if it is muggy) and automatically adjust the fan speed and whether air is drawn from outside or recirculated as appropriate. The driver then simply adjusts the temperature setting to the desired level and the car does the rest. That' how I run mine all the time. If you don't want the air con running, you can simply switch it off (when otherwise in auto mode). Pressing auto switches it on again. To demist / defog you need to press the appropriate buttons (as you already do) ...
  4. philip42h

    T180 tyres

    I'd put Michelin Cross Climates on (and have) - maybe not exactly 'mid-range' but well suited to the car ... Either way, ou really want all season tyres on a RAV. I believe the current MoT rules require that you keep the TPMS valves and the TPMS system in working order.
  5. As I understand, there should be a pair of anti-squeal brake shims installed between each brake pad and the corresponding brake caliper. It 'sounds' as though these may have been installed incorrectly or even be missing altogether ...
  6. As I understand, from the data published by the DVLA, as of August 2015 Toyota did not have any Euro 6 compliant variants of the RAV4 available. What they did have were the following Euro 5 compliant diesel options: 2.0 D-4D manual in AWD and FWD - this had a displacement of 1998cc and, I believe, is a Toyota engine developed by Toyota 2.2 D-4D / D-CAT AWD manual / automatic - Toyota never produced a Euro 6 compliant version of the 2.2 diesel (they simply dropped it) For the 2016 model year (thus on sale from September 2015) they introduced the following Euro 6 compliant diesel 2.0 D-4D manual, FWD only - this had a displacement of 1995cc and, I believe, is derived from the alliance with BMW. So despite having a Toyota badge and the 'normal' D-4D designation is quite different from the earlier Euro 5 compliant D-4D So, if Natalie's car, registered in September 2015, is AWD as suggested, then I suspect that it must be one of the earlier Euro 5 compliant models ...
  7. Based on my experience of 4.3 and 4.4 diesels, Toyota take a rather conservative view of fuel level. Both had/have 60L tanks - typically I fill after the low fuel light comes on and rarely get more that 45L into the tank. If I drive until the range remaining becomes zero (or the car gives up telling me that there is range remaining) there'll still be around 10L left in the tank. I've not been foolhardy enough to take the experiment to the absolute limit! 😄 But I think that this is consistent with your experience ...
  8. Try popping your registration number into this Euro emissions standard check site. This should tell which standard your car meets. You can also look at your V5C to see what your certified emissions are. Beyond that, I not aware of any legislation that suggests that we should ditch perfectly sound diesel cars in favour of something else either now or in the near future. As above (Nick), it's just a salesman "trying it on". If you fancy a new car, why not have one - but try to find a dealership that's a little more 'honest' perhaps ... 😉
  9. You're right! I had thought it was gone but under the EU-Japan trade deal that came into effect on 01/02/2019 the 10% tariff on Japanese vehicle imports was cut to 9.2% and will be progressively reduced to zero by 2032 ... which is a bit long to wait! 🙂
  10. A 2018 2.0 petrol CVT will be both auto and AWD - the CVT is by definition an automatic gearbox and Toyota didn't make a FWD / 2WD variant of that model. I've no personal experience but the 2.0 VVTi petrol engine is / was well established and well regarded so shouldn't give any problems. Toyota's implementation of the CVT is considered a good example of that style of gearbox. The kerb weight is broadly the same as your 2013 Icon but the braked towing capacity is 1500 kg (vs. 2000 kg for a 2.2 diesel). I don't tow but I suspect that the diesel will be the better and more relaxed tow car - the petrol provides around 200 NM torque at 4000 rpm vs the diesel's 300+ NM torque at around 2000 rpm. Others may well have more relevant practical experience ...
  11. You're right! 😄 Page 297 of the [online] owners manual states: ■ Automatic headlight leveling system The level of the headlights is automatically adjusted according to the number of passengers and the loading condition of the vehicle to ensure that the headlights do not interfere with other road users. So no little thumb-wheel anymore! And, I guess another thing that you may need to get your dealer to check that it's working as it should ...
  12. I'm convinced that all BMWs are fitted with over-bright lights that are set way too high ... but that's a different subject altogether 😄 Just checking the obvious ... the interior load compensating adjustment is correctly set (e.g. on zero) for no passengers and no load? I find that on occasions I come back to mine to find that the thumb wheel has [been] moved. (I can't think how so I blame the wife.) Probably the easiest way to get it checked would be to take the car to you local MoT centre and ask them nicely. Amusingly, mine failed its first MoT because the lights were set too high - after no adjustment by me and regular routine servicing by Mr T. 🙂
  13. Main bean, high beam and full beam are all terms for the same thing - namely the full output from the headlights. The alternative is dipped beam ... As far as I am aware, dipped beam has always been configured to reduce the amount of light projecting from the drivers side, precisely as furtula has said, to avoid blinding drivers on the opposite side, while allowing a 'tick-up' of light to better illuminate the verge / hedge / side of the road. And that is why we are required to 'modify' our headlights when driving on the continent (as vice versa). Toyota projection headlamps do appear to be more "oncoming driver friendly" than many traditional system having a sharper cut-off than folk may be used to ... Of course, if there are no oncoming drivers you can always switch to main beam in order to see a little further. 🙂
  14. Touch implies that it is a touch screen multimedia system; Go implies that it includes a sat nav ... I think! 🙂 If your local Toyota dealer is going to do the update for you (for £120) that may be a good / easy way to go ... If your Touch and Go system (version 1) is the same as mine (and I suspect that it is) then downloading the update for yourself via Toyota should cost you £109 (that's what the system quoted me today) for a download to a USB drive provided by you. If you were to purchase a new USB drive it would come formatted as FAT32 by default (so real complication in practice). As ever, you pays your money and takes your choice ... 🙂
  15. I'm pretty sure that Toyota produce only one update per year so attempting to update "twice a year" would be a complete waste of money and give you two copies of the same thing. Either way, if it were my car I'd update it 'now' because the maps are at least 5 years old - and possibly 8 or 9 years old if it hasn't been updated from new - just for the convenience of having the built-in sat nav working as well as it can. And then leave it like that for the next 5 years or so - the road network doesn't change that quickly after all. That said, Google maps are 'free', always as up-to-date as can be and Google traffic guidance is, typically, more reliable than that offered by the built-in system. I use both.