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Everything posted by philip42h

  1. It's not so strange, and I thought you'd explained it quite well! 🙂 The USB stick is just dumb filestore. It contains folders and files some of which represent albums and track; some playlists; some other stuff. The 'intelligence' required to play your music comes from the infotainment system and it would appear from these posts that it doesn't recognise playlists ... If you stream music from your smartphone the 'intelligence' comes from the smartphone while the infotainment system acts dumb and plays what is streamed to it - and it would appear that it is smart enough to do this much! 😀
  2. I haven't got round to fitting a bike rack to my RAV but if / when I do it would have to be the 'expensive' option ... first fit a tow bar and then opt for a tow bar mounted bike rack that tilts so that you can open the tailgate without dismounting all the bikes. There several options for the tow bar and a number of good options for the bike rack (including Thule) but at the end of the day you could do worse than what's on offer on the Toyota accessories page. But that is the 'expensive' option ...
  3. philip42h

    Poor mpg ?

    Meanwhile, back on topic ... 😉 The OP was enquiring about the economy to be expect of a 2016 RAV4 2.0 D4D FWD Manual. Toyota originally quoted 57.6 mpg and Honest John Real MPG figures suggest an average of 46.5 mpg (i.e. around 80% of the manufacturer's quoted NEDC figure). That is mid 40s rather than the low 40s the OP reported. As others have said, actual economy will depend on a variety of things including journey profile, driving style and ambient temperature. Anecdotal evidence suggests that the D4D engine appreciates premium diesel fuel and many of us use such fuels exclusively. It doesn't really matter which brand (or even unbranded) just so long as it contains the appropriate cleaning additives. Also the D4D requires regular 'long' runs in order to keep the emissions control system 'clean' and working as it should. An hour on the motorway - assuming that you can make reasonable progress - once a week seems sufficient to me but it does rather depend on what you are doing the rest of the time. The D4D won't respond well to a continual diet of stop-start urban crawl - you' be better of with something else, And, finally, since the OP doesn't know the previous history of the car and its use, running through a tank of fuel with an appropriate system cleaner can't do any harm, won't waste too much money and might provide a little piece of mind. ... if we are still allowed out, of course ... 😀
  4. philip42h

    Poor mpg ?

    You'll need to be a bit more specific about which engine, transmission and drive system you actually have - 2.2 or 2.0 L, manual or auto, FWD or AWD - since that makes a difference to the expected fuel economy. We can assume since it is a 2016 D4D is has a Toyota designed engine rather than the more economical BMW designed 2.0 Diesel, manual, FWD that boasts 60.1 mpg. I say 'boasts' since the real world figures from Honest John's Real MPG suggest that you should be expecting results in the low 40's as you say you are ...
  5. The WLTP Extra High figure seeks to simulate high speed highway / motorway driving. The figure quoted for a current RAV 4 is around 41.5 mpg - which is not bad for a petrol engine (since the hybrid system will have relatively little impact in this scenario) and accords pretty closely to Mr Kevin Nuts reported experience. (From what he has posted, he is clearly something of a 'road warrior', based in Northern Ireland where they still use imperial gallons ... 😉 ) As for the fuelling issue, I've yet to see any reports from UK drivers alluding to this so it seems likely that, if it exists at all, it relates to US gas pumps that you can lock on whilst filling and automatically switch off. Personally I wouldn't worry about that issue at all. 🙂
  6. philip42h


    On a 2010 RAV4? ... 🙂
  7. Come on now, just who would buy a "Recreational Activity Vehicle with 4-wheel drive" (RAV4) with only front wheel drive? What's the point in that? Such vehicles should rightfully be called 'RAV2' to accurately reflect their lowly status ... Less flippantly, the all wheel drive option is well worth the extra expense if you need or want the security of 4-wheel drive. Living half way up a hill in Wales I want to be able to get all the way home during those two or three weeks of snow every three or four years when we have snow. The system works exceedingly well when needed. The overhead fuel cost is 'marginal' when compared with the differences made by driving style and the weight of each individual's right foot. As above, if you don't need or want all wheel drive then why pay for it? There are plenty of medium to large estate cars available with front wheel drive that, arguably, represent better value than a RAV4. And I'd like to see a campaign to badge the front wheel cars as 'RAV2' to save the blushes of the few that have bought a second-hand RAV4, assuming that it was 4-wheel drive, only to find that it wasen't ... but I doubt that it would get much traction ... 😉
  8. See Hybrid Maintenance ...I don't think a hybrid is any more of a maintenance concern than any other second hand car ... Toyota has been offering 5-year, 100,000 miles warranty on all models for some time now and it is possible to extend that warranty beyond that. So a 2016 RAV4 hybrid will still be under warranty (unless it is already over 100,000 miles) and my 2013 RAV4 is still under warranty. They then add that " Having a Toyota Hybrid Electric Service annually will extend the standard cover on your hybrid battery for another year, or 10,000 miles, meaning your hybrid battery lifespan can be covered up to a total of 15 years." - which is pretty close to the life expectancy of a normal car ... And then, if you haven't bothered to take care of the car and have it serviced regularly, you can go for "a Toyota Hybrid battery replacement with a new warranty". What more do you want? 😉
  9. In the original post he did also say ... ... which made me fear that it was already "too late". But, as others have said, unless and until Jinty comes back with a bit more detail we can only speculate ...
  10. There are a load of 'Car fuel data, CO2 and vehicle tax tools' on the Vehicle Certification Agency page. I tend to 'Download the latest data' by clicking the link and saving the CSV file ... it helps if you have Excel to manipulate the data! 😉
  11. The DVLA are currently quoting both NEDC and WLTP CO2 figures for the RAV 4.5. These suggest that the CO2 figure of around 101 g/km NEDC will increase to around 131 g/km NEDC which means that the the first year tax will increase from £140 to £200 ... which is admittedly quite a large difference (a tax increase of over 42%). But is anyone really going to be that bothered about an increase of £60 in the price of a £35,000 car? Really? ... 😉
  12. You haven't been paying attention! ... 😄 Way back in September, Devon Aygo posted the following: So, it would appear that you do indeed have a MY20 car, built since October last year, and complete with AVAS etc. But Toyota wasn't due to start building MY20.5 cars with Apple Car Play / Android Auto etc. until January this year. And, given that they then take two or three months to get into the country, we won't expect to see these cars until March or even April ... 😉
  13. You'll get around 50k miles out of a set of Bridgestones - the RAV is surprisingly gentle on its tyres - so waiting to wear them out may not quite have the result you'd hope for! The road noise from the Bridgestones is very dependent upon the road surface - they are very noisy on concrete and broken / coubik surfaces, noisy on your average UK road and whisper quiet (well, comparatively) on a French autoroute on a warm summer's day. I run Michelin Cross Climates - a lot quieter on average and well suited to the RAV4 ... other good quality all season tyres are available ... 🙂
  14. I wouldn't have thought that the side steps made an appreciable difference to the level of road noise. The RAV isn't 'quiet' - you shouldn't expect it to be ... what are you comparing it to? And, most importantly, what tyres are you running? If you are on OEM Bridgestone Duelers there are quieter options ...
  15. Here's a safe way to check ... go to Toyota's Recall Checker, enter your VIN, click to say that you are not a robot and it should display basic information about your car including model year. 🙂
  16. I've no idea whether the VIN sites are safe or not - hence my cautionary aside. I used the one I linked to before realising that it recorded VINs - which it shouldn't really need to do (unless perhaps it wanted to clone them!) 😉 The fact that your VIN also contains 0D is indeed strange and pretty much destroys my theory on where the model year is encoded!!! 😄
  17. The structure of a VIN is described on this Wiki page. This suggests that for North American cars the model year and plant number are encoded into digits 10 and 11 of the VIN. Further down the page it gives the codes used for the model year - D for 2013 and subsequent years by subsequent letters. My VIN has 0D as digits 10 and 11 so I expect(ed) yours to be 0K or 0L ... it looks as though I may well have got that wrong. There are various sites that offer to decode a VIN such as this one which, when provided with my VIN got all the details of my car correct. Note these sites also appear to remember the VINs enter so ... I've seen a Toyota Japan site that says that it takes 17-18 hours to build a car (kids site here) so I wouldn't expect it to be in the factory for more than two or three days. It'll probably spend far longer waiting for the ship to arrive and for it to be loaded before it starts its journey to the UK ...
  18. The model year is encoded within the VIN. Mine contains a D for 2013; yours should contain either a K for 2019 or an L for 2020 ... I think ...
  19. Other than the US site gives the service specification for US spec, petrol driven RAVs ... ... I've never managed to find details of what is required at each service other than on the inspection report returned by Mr T after the service is carried out. If you have a service history, hopefully there should be some indication there. Otherwise, and assuming you mean for a 70,000 mile / 7 year service where all preceding services have been carried out in accordance with the "every 10,000 miles or 1 year whichever comes first" schedule, at 70k the car would require an intermediate service only. That means just an oil change ... plus a slew of visual inspections ...
  20. The car in question is described as a T180 - so that means a D-CAT engine from introduction in 2006. The D-CAT comes with Toyota's DPNR which does NOX reduction in addition to the normal particulate filtering but it is a DPF by any other name ... I can't help in the slightest with the fault analysis or resolution but we may as well be clear what engine we are working with ... 😉
  21. So, the Duelers are E rated for wet grip ... which is, perhaps, what you are finding, particularly if they are already getting on a bit in years. The Vredestein Quatrac 5 all season tyres are C rated for wet grip which is better; while the Ultrac Satin summer tyres are A rated for wet grip which is better still ... other makes of tyre are, of course, available. 😉
  22. Looking at the forecast temperature ranges for Lisbon, I can't see why you wouldn't run summer tyres all year round. In the depths of winter they suggest average day-time highs of 15 degrees and average lows no worse that 8 degrees. I can't see any real benefit in fitting cold weather or all season tyres unless you plan to also drive in rather different conditions. So the OEM Duelers - which are summer tyres - would be perfectly well suited to that temperature range. They are also hard wearing, C rated for fuel economy (so not bad), E rated for wet grip (so could do better) and, despite being rated at 70dB generally considered rather noisy, particularly on less good road surfaces. I doubt that they would be anyone's first choice tyres today. If you fancied something from the Vredestein stable you might look at the Ultrac Satin - I can't recommend it from personal experience but it seems well rated ...
  23. The Icon is (now) the base model, and does not have sat nav as standard though this is/was an option. The Icon does not have, nor, as far as we know ever will have, Apple Carplay - so there's no way to link your iPhone sat nav into your RAV4 multimedia system (AFAIK). You best bet is likely to be to get a dash mount (Proclip, Brodit or similar) and use you iPhone as a sat nav that way. The one saving grace is that the sat nav on the iPhone is likely to be better and more current that the RAV built-in solution. 😉
  24. I don't know at all but just guessing for fun ... the Icon does not have "Toyota Touch® 2 with Go navigation" as standard - though it is an option. The other key difference in that area is that the Icon lacks the "Voice recognition" that is standard on all other grades but not even an option on the Icon. So, my wild guess is it could be the "Voice recognition" feature that is required for Android Auto / Apple Carplay ... but just a guess ... 😉
  25. Quite possibly nothing at all ... 🙂 How long have you had this car? How long has it been behaving like this? And what is your typical journey profile? It sounds to me like part of a normal DPF regeneration cycle. Take a look at this Toyota Blog article for more detail: Toyota DPF: understanding your diesel particulate filter and don't get too distracted by any references to the Hilux - the same applies to our diesel RAVs. My SR180 used to do this - typically during the winter months and in periods when I was do a greater proportion of shorter journeys and relatively few longer ones.