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Everything posted by philip42h

  1. So, to answer the OP's question ... Auto EV/HV should probably be regarded as the 'default' normal mode of operation - it let's the car decide how best to balance the power options available to it/you. Use EV when you want to drive as an EV as far / as much as possible. Use HV when you want to save up the available battery charge for use later in the journey. I think ... πŸ˜‰
  2. The OP is talking about a PHEV aka US Prime - not a humble HEV like ours ... πŸ™‚ The PHEV owners will respond shortly!
  3. Ok, that would have been an OTA update of just GB & IE. The instructions there say that you can interrupt the process and it will resume so you don't need to leave it sat in Ready mode all the while. As far as I can tell, this simply adds a new version of your local map on top of the existing full map set. With the OTA update it completes the download relatively quickly and then takes more time to complete the install. A full update via USB doesn't need a wireless connection ('cos the data's on the USB stick), updates maps for all of the Western Europe region and, as Ernie says, takes about 75 minutes. But in this case it wipes out the existing map data set and replaces it with the new one. I just don't know whether the system has sufficient space to add the new one before deleting the old one, or has the delete the existing map first so as to make space for the new one - so if you interrupt it you may have no maps at all until you complete the update! For my last full update I played safe, left the car on the drive in ready mode for sufficient time to complete the whole job ...
  4. How many times did you stop and restart it, Ernie? I ask because the instructions - which are quite wrong on other aspects - state clearly: "Please do not interrupt the system or updates will be lost"
  5. Yes, I believe so. I originally updated to 2021 v1 OTA, and subsequently updated via USB to the same version (I'm currently in France) and haven't noticed any differences as far as UK motoring goes. (I'll consider 2021 v2 when I get home again! πŸ™‚ )
  6. If you go to My Toyota, sign in, go to Estore (or via Maps and Apps) and the Purchases tab (top left ish) then you should see a list of your 'purchases'. Clicking on a purchase shows a download link, download instructions and the activation key. Oh, and updating OTA counts as a 'purchase', so you can subsequently access the purchase and download to USB as well to get and install the full map update.
  7. I haven't tried it, wouldn't miss it, and won't bother. Who really needs speed camera alerts anyway? πŸ˜‰
  8. OK, so you've download 2021 v2 "over the air" (OTA) which updates the maps for your local region (GB,IE) but NOT the rest of Western Europe. If you want to update the Western Europe maps you'll need to download to USB and install that way. If you do, it will show just Map DB version 2021 v2. πŸ™‚
  9. As above, the destination is transmitted to the car via Wi-Fi using Toyota Online service (rather than AA or ACP) and then it turns up in Favourites.
  10. It turns up as a Favourite destination ...
  11. The factory for UK RAV4s is in Japan ...
  12. Yup, that's normal for a UK car - no spare wheel so you don't need the means to change it! As I understand, the towing eye is a legal requirement, so you get one of those. The jack and wheel nut wrench may be legally required in other geographies that also use the repair kit ... ?
  13. The Top Gear review also states: "The petrol engine is a mite less powerful than in a mild-hybrid RAV4" when we know that: The petrol engine in the PHEV is a tiny mite more powerful not less, and Toyota don't make a mild-hybrid RAV4 - it's a full self-charging hybrid I wouldn't put much store in that review! That said, to get the full benefit of the 'more power' you need to have charge in the battery, and, if you don't charge it from the mains, you will need to run the petrol engine as a generator to top-up the battery. And that's OK since you only use the 'more power' relatively occasionally ... don't you? πŸ˜‰
  14. While that is certainly true, I'm not sure that the petrol engine differences are that significant ... The HEV quotes 176 bhp at 5,700 rpm and 221 Nm between 3,600 and 5,200 rpm while the PHEV quotes 182 bhp at 6,000 rpm and 227 Nm between 3,200 and 3,700 rpm. But the real difference is in the front electric motors with the HEV quoting 88 kW and 202 Nm and the PHEV quoting 134 kW and 270 Nm meaning that the system outputs equate to 219 bhp for the HEV and 302 bhp for the PHEV.
  15. An individual's economy figure will depend very much on how the car is used, and, from experience, my individual trip economies can vary widely. The WLTP figure for the AWD HEV is around 48 mpg - and that seems realistically achievable to me. So it seems very plausible that a careful driver could achieve 45 mpg from a PHEV is self-charging mode (as per the cited review tests). The WLTP figure for the PHEV is 282 mpg - which to achieve in practice would require very extension use of a charger. It would be good if manufacturers of PHEVs were also required to publish WLTP figures for their cars in ICE only mode ...
  16. The petrol engines in the HEV and the PHEV are identical, but the PHEV has a more powerful front motor - providing improved performance and consuming more charge. The obvious consequence is that, in self-charging mode, the PHEV has the potential to be rather less economical than the HEV. If you rarely use the extra performance and generally drive with a light right foot then you should be able to get similar economy out of both - with the lighter HEV winning out overall. The PHEV wins if you charge it regularly or, as a company car driver, look to take advantage of the BIK benefits.
  17. Charging a RAV4 PHEV at 'home' using a 13A socket and 'granny' cable would cost around Β£2.75 - that's 12.5kWh (as per Ernie's estimation) at about 22p/kWh being this week's cost at the price cap. So, under Β£3 and you might do better if you already have fixed tariff and/or can charge off-peak. And that will give you pretty much the same range as a gallon of petrol. Average petrol price last week was 137.9p/litre. So that's around Β£6.20. I.e. it costs around twice as much to run the PHEV on petrol as it does to do the first 50 miles on electricity from home. That same Β£6.20 would equate to around 50p/kWh if you were paying for it from a public charge point. If you were to use an Ionity 350 kW CCS unit you'd wind-up paying 69p/kWh - so you really wouldn't want to be doing that! I suspect that it is something of an illusion that it will be cheaper to run an EV than it is to run an ICE - it certainly can be today if you use the right charge point, but over time the potential saving is likely to be eroded. And, 'no', that won't stop the march of the EV 'cos sooner or later we won't have fuel for the ICE anyway! πŸ˜‰
  18. I was mostly attempting to be whimsical ... πŸ™‚ Yes fuel goes stale etc. - irrespective of whether it contains ethanol. The tools I have ought to be able to cope with up to 5% ethanol since it was bought when E5 was already a thing. But I've no idea [yet] whether they will cope with up to 10% ethanol and probably need to take to time to find out - meanwhile I'll stick to E5. Amusingly, depending upon where you buy the stuff, E5 may contain no ethanol at all - up to 5% includes 0%. But I think E10 pretty much always contains 10% ethanol ...
  19. E10 is regular unleaded - 95 RON. E5 is super unleaded - 97, 98 or 99 RON depending on the brand - and comes at a premium price that is 'wasted' on the RAV. I only use E5 for my garden tools ... πŸ˜‰
  20. This is the RAV4 section of the Toyota Owners Club so we should evict the RAV4 PHEV since Toyota market it as a different model, and ban all the company car drivers since they aren't 'owners' ... 🀣 Seriously though, there aren't enough PHEVs to warrant a separate section and they are still RAV4s, and I guess that we can grudgingly accept the company car crew as long as they promise to behave. It would be 'good' if threads could remain more or less on the topic of RAV4s though ... πŸ˜‰
  21. There's no warning light to that effect on mine / mentioned in the handbook ...
  22. Sorry to hear that Mick. What are you getting / have you got as a replacement? The 'original' and acknowledged problem certainly did affect 2.2 AD diesel engines produced between 2006 and 2008, and the associated 'design' issue was resolved in production after that time. It was felt that the 180 bhp engine was more at risk than the 140 bhp engine but I doubt that was scientifically proven. It was generally considered that the 150 bhp engine introduced with the 4.3.5 was a much safer bet but I/we have heard small numbers of reports of cylinder head issues such as yours - which, while disappointing, is not entirely surprising for a 10 year old 'modern' diesel.
  23. I suspect that your little beauty really needs 4 new tyres ... πŸ˜‰ ... and exactly which they should be will probably depend upon what you use the car for. IIRC the car should be shod 215/70 R16s (as I suspect you have on the spare). Quite why you have 235/70 R16s will depend on who put them on - was that you or a previous owner? The RAV4 is 'normally' run on HT (highway terrain) tyres rather than all terrain (AT) tyres as these are quieter on road and better suit the RAVs character. So, why would you want ATs at all?
  24. I have a UK spec car with a 7" MID which can display in miles (mph and mpg) or kilometres (kph and l/km) at the touch of a button. Also, when displaying in mph (large digits) it also display kph in smaller digits on the side.
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