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Everything posted by philip42h

  1. At today's local prices and a 37 mpg achieved my RAV4.4 diesel would cost around 22p / mile to run. Again at today's local prices my RAV4.5 hybrid (petrol) costs me around 16p / mile to run - I achieve around 45 mpg; others may well achieve better. If I had a bZ4x and charged it at home at my standard variable rate (35p / kWh) it would cost around 11p / mile to run - i.e. half the cost of the diesel or two-thirds the cost of the hybrid so it remains a reasonable proposition at today's prices. I'm on a standard variable tariff now that my fixed tariff has ended and there are currently no alternative options for me. I was surprised the other day to find that the rate is going up again in January to 36.44p / kWh which will push the cost of running my hypothetical bZ4X to 11.5p / mile. But here's the interesting bit, that 36.44p / kWh is after the Government discount of 17.39p / kWh arising from the energy price guarantee. Without the discount I would be paying 53.83p / kWh - so a shade over 17p / mile. The energy price guarantee won't last forever ... The break-even point between a RAV4 hybrid and a bZ4X seems to be around 50p / kWh at today's petrol prices.
  2. I've stuck with Toyota Roadside Assistance for years now - it gives a decent level of cover at a reasonable price. I'd never heard of Start Rescue until I read this thread. For an equivalent level of cover, Start Rescue would cost Β£72.80 pa compared to Toyota Roadside Assistance at Β£76.00 - so nothing in it really in terms of price. I do want European cover so that needs to the priced in ... If I didn't want European cover Start Rescue at Β£30.80 pa would seem a very attractive alternative. But breakdown cover is just another insurance. If you can 'bear the risk' you don't need it at all! If you are looking to save the pennies there will be cheaper options available. But we almost certainly don't need to pay for the premium services offered by the AA or RAC - unless these come with other benefits ...
  3. I fear that I would be in that camp too ... They have done nothing to diagnose the fault. They have recharged the 12v battery, and then demonstrated that it is good - so not the fault you reported. And they've carried out a telematics / DCU ECU reset which may well reduce parasitic drain - i.e. meaning that you can now leave the car standing for 4 weeks rather than 3 - but doesn't really seem to cover the fault. If I am understanding correctly, you had a car the worked just perfectly for many months, and then relatively recently has let you down three times. That sounds like a 'fault' that has developed relatively recently rather than a software "feature" that has been present in the car from new. And they haven't addressed the 19v anomaly at all ... I shall be interested to learn what you find when next you have time to check that ... I sincerely hope that I am being unnecessarily pessimistic ... 😞
  4. I've not got a PHEV, or any preconditioning stuff, so I am unaware of the detailed operation ... but "the spinning circle of doom" merely indicates that the 'app' - I'm assuming that it's the app on your 'phone - is awaiting a response from the other end ... which ultimately it doesn't get because it times out. This implies the the app has sent whatever query or instruction it was meant to and simply hasn't got a response - the instruction may, or may not, have been carried out in the meantime. Given the circumstances, and past experience, it seems likely that the Toyota servers were 'on a break' and there is nothing particularly wrong with communications between the car and Toyota or between the app and Toyota ... Perhaps?
  5. philip42h

    Snow Chains

    I assume that the OP is intending to travel somewhere in Europe where the carrying and use of snow chains is mandatory. The owners handbook gives guidance on the selection of "tire chains" (sic) in terms of link sizes etc. and their fitment to the front wheels only.
  6. Out of idle curiosity / academic interest I'd love to know the best and worst economy / consumption figures that bZ4X owners are achieving - in miles / kWh or whatever ... πŸ™‚ (Over a reasonable length journey that is rather than 'instantaneous' πŸ˜‰ )
  7. True, it would undoubtedly be nice to know ... but what on earth are would you be planning to do with that knowledge? πŸ˜‰
  8. Er, no ... the 18 miles range remaining was to the point that Toyota felt that you should refill the tank rather than the distance before it stopped dead. If you assume that Toyota allow for a 10% reserve - because that's what it appears to be - the the remaining 18 mile range is what the car thinks it can do on the 1.5 litres before it goes into reserve. This comes out at around 54 mpg which seems OK?
  9. I suspect that it is rather less of a bother than have a spare wheel in the boot ... I suspect that the OP uses a tethered cable on his home 7.4 kW wall charger. And when recharging on the road, practically he will use the tethered cable on the DC charger of his choice. The cables stowed in the boot only ever come out for use in an 'emergency' ... And unlike the spare wheel that we may well need on the side of a motorway (in the rain) he will only ever need the 'emergency' charging cables when he is safely off the road at a charge point. πŸ˜‰
  10. Sadly, it took me a little while to work that out ... πŸ™‚ And, of course, this doesn't regulate steering wheel heating - or, at least, I hope it doesn't ... πŸ˜‰
  11. Maybe, maybe not ... The tank holds 55L. The estimated range shown is based on burning ~90% of that at your recent actual consumption rate - ~10% is held in 'reserve'. Current WLTP figures given quite a good estimation of actual consumption for the average driver - but actual consumption will vary quite widely with driving style, conditions and journey profile. The WLTP figure for the RAV4.5 is around 47 mpg. 90% of 55L is around 11 gallons giving a [WLTP] range of 517 miles per tank. (I never see that - for me tank range is 490-500 miles). A tank range of 407 miles works out at 37 mpg which is a bit low but not unreasonable for short hilly journeys. (I can see per trip figures in the 20s but my overall average is around 45 mpg.) Basically you need to see what you get for the second tank ... πŸ˜‰
  12. That doesn't sound at all daft to me ... πŸ™‚ Many of us have found that with LTA switched on the car pulls to the left - i.e. it wants to sit further over to the LHS of the lane than we do so we end up fighting it all the time ...
  13. 4 degrees C this morning, so chilly enough to think about switching on the heated steering wheel before I got into the car. I decided just to leave it 'on' while I ran my various errands. The steering wheel gets toasty warm but it doesn't get hotter than that. And it stays switched on when the car is switched off / comes back on automatically when you switch the car back on ... πŸ‘ But it does make the steering wheel warmer than I want it to be - so I'll just continue to use it to take the chill off for the first couple of minutes of the journey, and practice finding the hidden button when I want to switch it off again. πŸ™‚
  14. Two questions: Is the car manual or automatic? What is your journey profile? Specifically does it include regular longer journeys? I ran a 2013 4.4 D-CAT automatic for seven years ('till 2020) - it was utterly faultless ... πŸ™‚ The automatic includes the fifth injector and emissions control system necessary to stay within Euro 5 diesel emissions regulations which it does extremely well but it does rely on regular longer runs to keep the DNPR clean and soot free. If you only ever do short journeys you are probably better off with petrol than diesel. The manual can manage without the emissions control stuff - and has higher emissions as a result. So it is simpler and there is less to go wrong ... hence the questions above ... πŸ˜‰
  15. Yes, I recall something similar in 2020. I'd set-up the car in the app and all was fine for about 24 hrs when someone at the dealership helpfully 'unset' everything again. They feigned ignorance but I can't see what else could have happened ... IIRC I simply had to set everything up again ... but it was two years ago now!
  16. Will it? There's nothing to that effect in the Owners Manual, but that doesn't mean that it won't ... That said, I've never manged to leave mine on for more than two minutes - by then the steering wheel is more than warm enough and it doesn't go 'cold' again with the heater turned off ... πŸ™‚
  17. Does it look like this? If so, the map display is set to 3D Heading up ... you can change that using the symbol highlighted by the arrow in the picture above. If not, you could take a snap and post it here - a picture, as they say, is worth a thousand words ...
  18. Another 'rubbish' report - in the sense that it sets out to create a negative headline, is economical with the truth and presents little if any technical method. Honestly, journalists and the media are worse than politicians these days ... πŸ˜‰ First, they are comparing are real world worst case measurement (high speed in cold weather) with a best case lab test result under ideal conditions and at ambient temperature. They aren't comparing like with like so the headline result is meaningless. WLTP figures - as quoted by the manufacturers - are lab test results. They are useful for comparing one EV with another, but really not a very good prediction of real world performance. They are getting much better for ICE; they are probably worse than the old NEDC figures were (for ICE) in predicting EV performance. Hopefully things will improve over the next iteration or two ... As to the results themselves, they recorded 215 km (AWD, 20" wheels) at a temperature of 4 degrees C (so 'cold' rather than 'mild' at 23 degrees C) and at a speed of 110 kph (so highway speeds) and go on to claim that they achieved this using 60 kWh out of the 71.4 kWh capacity of the bZ4X battery. Scaling that up to make use of the full battery capacity one would get a range of 256 km. EVDB gives the Highway, Cold weather range as 260 km. So this test result falls short of a realistic range estimate by abou 1.6% - i.e. it is pretty much bag on what a sensible reviewer should expect. But that wouldn't generate an attention grabbing headline would it ... So, there's really no news here. If you are driving a bZ4X in winter at highway speeds you probably need to plan to stop for 30 minutes every 2 hours / 220 km to recharge. If the infrastructure is in place, you are good to good; if not you may need an alternative plan ... πŸ˜‰
  19. That has been discussed to death already here: ... and doesn't impact "Delivery dates" at all ... πŸ˜‰
  20. Adding a spare wheel adds to the "mass in service" / kerb weight. Adding passengers and luggage adds to the "maximum permissible mass / gross weight. Technically we should weigh our passengers and their luggage to ensure that we stay within bounds ... πŸ˜‰
  21. As I said, I could be misreading or misunderstanding what it is trying to say. The HEV equivalent function offers average fuel economy per trip (since the 'engine' was last started), per tank (since the car was last refueled) or since the last reset. I leave it set to "per trip" since that amuses me, and use brim-to-brim measurements to get reliable fuel consumption measurements over the longer term (since that amuses me too!). I don't really trust the onboard systems to provide reliable stats - particularly when I don't need to. Hence my wholly academic interest in how EV owners in general, and bZ4X owners in particular, were going to maintain dependable and comparable power consumption figures ... πŸ˜‰
  22. Checking the bZ4X owners manual it offers: I may be misreading it but it appears to give either miles/kWh since the 'engine' was last started or the miles/kWh since the car was last charged / refueled. This would be analogous the the fuel consumption figures for the HEV. It appears not to give an overall average from new / last reset ...
  23. How are EV owners actually going to measure consumption? Is there a generally approved method? For an ICE we typically measure mileage and fuel added using the brim-to-brim approach. It's far from perfect but it does give a fair idea of the economy achieved over the last tankfull. With an EV folk are typically only going to charge to 100% (fill to the brim) at home. So do you then need to add in each of the rapid part charges between home full charges to get a reasonable measure of power used per mile?
  24. The range prediction is based on the amount of fuel in the tank and the average fuel economy over the last few 10s km. I.e. if you continue driving as you have recently, how far can you go before you need to refuel. It's the same meter but slightly different averaging and good enough to give you a indication as to how far you can go without adding more fuel. The "essence of regen" is quite a distinct smell not unlike burnt rubber. Of itself it is neither 'unusual' nor a 'fault'. Under ideal conditions - i.e. regular long journeys at reasonably high speed - the system should regenerate passively with no extra fuel added. By the end of your 9 hour marathon that should have been the case. Under less than ideal conditions, the system detects the build up of 'soot' in the DPNR (a pressure sensor) and initiates an active regen cycle when the conditions are appropriate - i.e. the engine is at temperature and running above about 2000 rpm. During an active regen, fuel is supplied via the fifth injector to raise the temperature of the exhaust and help burn off the 'soot'. Exactly how long this takes will depend of engine temperature, engine speed and how much soot there is in the DPNR. During an active regen the "essence of regen" will be emitted from the tailpipe. The driver will neither notice nor care since it is outside the car and being left behind. If, however, the journey is ended and the car parked up before the active regeneration is complete the driver may well detect "essence of regen" at the back of the car. This isn't, of itself, an issue since the active regen will resume when next the engine achieves the right conditions, but it is one of the reasons why this engine does not respond well to frequent short journeys - it wants regular 'long' runs to ensure that regeneration completes. In short, detecting "essence of regen" occasionally isn't an issue - it is simply an indication that the car would benefit from a long run. If you detect "essence of regen" every time you park up, even after a longer run, that might indicate that the system was running an active regen cycle when maybe it need not and 'something is not quite right'. (You haven't mentioned detecting white smoke ... so I won't either πŸ˜‰ )
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