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About Joylove

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  1. Also try unplugging the bonnet switch for a few days to see if things improve. Some cars the sun can heat the bonnet, causing it to flex and the switch makes contact and sets off the alarm.
  2. There are master and valet keys. This is sort of the "security clearance" level given to the chip in every key for the immobiliser. As a security measure, to add a new chip to the immobiliser (master or valet), you must first insert a valid master chip key. You can't add new key chips with a valet key chip. Your key sounds like a replacement key. The only ways to tell if it is coded as a master of a valet is to try to add a new key chip to the immobiliser, or inspect it with techstream.
  3. Yes you need a master key to code a new chip to the imobiliser. You could ask the garage to get you the key coded. They'll write it off against business tax and get business rates too.
  4. I think the Rx300 wheels will fit and look rather good too.
  5. Your first and cheapest step is to change the battery in the remote. I usually buy a strip of 5 or 10 suitable batteries for a pound on eBay and keep them in a drawer. The second step is to try a spare remote key if you still have two. Third step is to recode the remote to the alarm using the instructions attached (Toyota_RAV4_2000-2006_remote_programming__61585_zoom.jpg). Last chance is to start replacing expensive things, maybe with used ECUs from eBay.
  6. Attached are the setting guides for TVSS III, IV and V. I think the RAV4 has TVSS V. Note the door ajar buzzer is not the "idiot gong" you get for leaving the keys in, it is the "door ajar" gong you get if you try to arm the alarm with a door ajar. TVSS V Set. Guide Except Belgium.pdf TVSS setting guide for TVSS IV-S LHD T4SLSET-2-0-F.pdf TVSS 3 (b) Setting guide en.pdf
  7. I would check all the sensors in the same way. There are two 15Rs and two 4Rs. Once all heaters are in order, pull the battery for 10 minutes to clear the adaptations. The light "should" extinguish by itself, since the test is run each time the car starts, but since my 2001 didn't get a Check Engine light and I could only tell if it was set from Techstream, I'm not 100% sure. A cheap code reader for say £15 might be a good tool for your toolbox.
  8. Read carefully the text under the photos here.
  9. The factory immobilser is the LED near the driver's door with SECURITY under it. The factory alarm/remote entry has an LED near the gear shifter on the centre console. I would budget for a new key from the dealer, about £150 if you want a remote entry. Whilst it is a DIY job to code new keys to the imobiliser and the alarm/remote entry, sourcing the parts is very hard, from experience. I ended up spending £70 on parts that did not work until I lucked out to find unused second hand parts for the RAV4.
  10. yep, you've met the immobiliser. there is a chip in the key that is read by the immobiliser and decides where to enable the ignition and fuel pump. you need to learn the chip to the immoiliser. not sure how to do it on a 4.3 note that the immobiliser is nothing to do with learning the rmote central locking, the two systems are seperate, bar sharing the smae key guts.
  11. Joylove

    Obdii Compliant

    Thanks! Does the software on the CD run independently or do I sitll need internet connection and TIS subscription? It can be made to run without either.
  12. Joylove

    Obdii Compliant

    Could you point me to the "J1534 passthrough adaptor" or the "DIY"? I have ELM compatible devices but need help to talked to the "Toyota special" KWP bus. Thanks! £26 here with a copy of techstream.
  13. Does the gps work fully in all other ways, recalculation based on your current position when you set off? If not I think on the touchscreen nav's there is a hidden service menu that will allow you to see the GPS data. you can check if the antenna has a good signal. i seem to recall that to get to the menu you need to press the cornes of the touchscreen in a specific sequence, some googling will help find the code.
  14. Yes thanks Bob, I did buy a code reader, in fact the one you recommended before, but stupidly left it in UK. We are back early September, so will bring it back out, and let you know the codes. As I understand it, there was nothing shown when Toyota did the service. Ah I thought I recognised the poster. Yep, get the code reader back, stick it in the glovebox with pen & paper, when the light comes on, have a look to see what the problem is and post it up here. It's a weird one, to be coming on only after a long drive.
  15. For the radio on a Sony the bezel is usually fixed on and the metal strips go in behind the removable faceplate. If it's so old the faceplate is stuck on and screws are visible, maybe post some pics?