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Everything posted by Steven252

  1. Its working fine for me. Make sure your logged in at the top
  2. Oddly i get email notifications. I very rarely come on here. Mainly on c.c.u.k The belt tensioner tightens and loosens as the engine both increases in revs and between high and low loads. If it didnt, the belt would flap about. This movements exaggerated by the play if its not dampened correctly causing the judder.
  3. Yeah the juddering on my car was because of the aux tensionser damper developing play in its bushings. Replaced it for another and its been fine nearly 3 years on. Its a comon problem with the vvt engines
  4. It kicks in at 5k but not like the TS's Ive looked a nitrous several times. Even with my set up running what i have, youll probably blow the motor ESPECIALLY on the stock ECU. I know these stock ECUs inside out
  5. I can confirm every comp engages lift at 5k, its a fact. What ecu will you run with nitrous - your looking at 1.5k there to not **** the engine on it. 300bhp on any 4 pot car, will be 3-6k minimum. Joys of modifying.
  6. Lift kicks in at 5k on all compressors mate. The NA TS kick in at 6200. Youll blow the engine up with nitrous. Plus have you looked how expensive refils are - £75 for a 11lb bottle thatll last 8-10 1/4mile run. Nothings cheep once you start modifying cars. Ill probably be close to 300bhp at 3k but its all built not bought. Probably be 8-9k if you paid a garage....
  7. You need an open cone filter to hear the whine :) Lift comes on at 5 on the stock ECU, ive got it set at 4k on my EMS-4. The cars been built by myself, ill probably be 3k into it once its finished.
  8. Nothing. Cars still on its original clutch @93k. The engine/gearbox have not been opened up in that time either. Regular maintenance does these lumps well and all fluids get chanced after 5k on it. Since the water methanol injection kit was installed @85k the engine is much healthier. I do have an issue with the supercharger i bought with the SS pulley (i have two) - it had been installed incorrectly by the previous owner and it damaged the snout and the drive flange which in tern were badly repaired, again, before i got my hands on it. These two parts are currently being addressed but as soon as it ill have it fine tuned and get some numbers (i have mapped it myself see) but that was purely down to bad fitment. Its at 11psi at the redline, so power could be anywhere between 240-280. All i can say is that it would absolutely destroy a stock compressor. http://youtu.be/jkxgOhHN3bA
  9. So many wrongs in this thread. Dont fit an intercooler - they dont work and cause massive running issues. Greedy emanage is probably the most useless ecu ive ever had to use. Its also a piggy back not a stand alone. Basically fitting a smaller pulley will do bugger all for peak performance. The inlet pipeworks too small acting as a restrictor. Plus the injectors are pritty much maxed out with just a induction/exhaust/remap on the stock pulley. And without proper heat maintenance the SC is likely to fail - i inject water methanol directly into the supercharger to stop it over heating. 94mm runs the SC at 11,600rpm at the 8,200 redline Im running larger injectors, ST 94mm pulley, own custom inlet, water methanol injection, larger TB all on a stand alone ECU. Current spec of the car for those interested - complete build thread is on another well known corolla specific forum Engine AEM Water Methanol Injection Kit AEM EMS-4 ECU with Custom Harness AEM 3.5 Bar Map Sensor AEM IAT Sensor 3" Custom Induction Kit 3" Manifold Back Exhaust With De-CAT 2.75" Custom SC Pipes 2.75" Custom SC Inlet Manifold Maxbore Englargened ThrottleBody Custom Throttlebody Housing Silverstone 94mm Fixed SC Pulley 550CC Fuel Injectors Ross Jackson Steel SC Snout Polished Inlet Manifold 235mm Oil Cooler BRD Fast Road F&R Engine Mounts Ants Brass Shifter Bushes Chassis KYB Ultra SR Shocks Eibach Front/FK Rear Lowering Springs Whiteline F/F Wishbone Bushes Whiteline F/R Wishbone Bush W/Castor Whiteline Front ARB Bushes Heavy Duty Droplinks Standard Compressor Braces & Rear ARB Dot 5.1 Brake Fluid Interior AEM Water Methanol Failsafe Gauge AEM Boost And AFR Failsafe Gauge Custom A Pillar Pod Kenwood DNX Dat Nav System Bones Weighted Gearnob BRD Cradle Bushes Tsport Matts Exterior TTE Grandstand 17" Alloys Fatal USDM Switchback Indicators JDM Tail Light Conversion 55w 5k HID Kit 100w Yellow HOD Main/Fog Bulbs Yellow Painted Fog Lights Gold Calipers Front Lower Grill Cut Out DeBadged and DeBumpstriped Matt Black Compressor Rear Splitter TTE Grill Badge
  10. Threads nearly 2 years old so no they sold along time ago im affraid
  11. Sorry mate, not really active on here. No, the damper casing is the joint itself. So once its dead there's not a lot you can do about it. I suppose it would be possible to drill it out to the next size up and fit a sleeve, however its probably more cost effective just to replace the arm itself Also don't buy a patent part item listed for the celica. These are a different length than the corolla item due to the power steering pump. However, it is possible to swop the damper and the tensioner pulley onto the old corolla arm if you have the right sockets. yes, if I gave it more revs when pulling of, say @1800 or above, I did not have any juddering.
  12. Yes, it runs the aux belt. Its not the tensioner part thats at fault its the damper on it. Yea you can remove it from the top to inspect it. The drivers side engine mount needs to be unbolted and the engine jacked all the way up to remove the bolts
  13. Basically, i had the same symptoms as you, violent juddering when pulling off or when at low rpms and high load inputs. It was nothing to do with the clutch itself, the AUX tensioner damper had developed loads of play causing the vibrations. My clutch wasnt slipping and wasnt showing any other symptoms of failing. Before splashing out a hell of alot of money on a new clutch, check the AUX tensioner. AFAIA they are the same on the 2/3/4zz corollas. This is possibly your problem and at 50k id imagine your clutch is fine.
  14. Possibly mate, i thought i had seriously warped my clutch once it got real bad but it was this. It was really judering violently from it. You need to remove the drivers side engine mount and jack the engine up to remove it. Took me about 20mins to get it off to fully inspect it
  15. No the damper itself is fine. Its the rose joint that connects the bottom part of the damper to the aux tensioner arm that developes play. Toyota wanted £183 for a new one. I had to make a good one out of two second hand ones i got hold off
  16. Remove the FMIC. They cause nothing but problems on a compressor
  17. I doubt its clutch related. My moneys on the aux belt tensioner. The damper on these gets movement which causes heavy juddering on low rpm high load pulls. I recently changed mine and upon removal there was a good 5-6mm of moment in the damper joint
  18. They were only on g6 5dr corollas, they might be still availble but toyota will be bigg £££ for one. Check out ebay for car breaking that have a spoiler
  19. Just pick one and stop worrying about it there all round and made of rubber End of the day theyve all got to pass the minimum guidlines, so there all going to be reasonable anyway. Ive put wanlis on a 280bhp car before, yes not ideal but i didnt crash or find a ditch. Dont forget for every bad review on the internet, theres 1000s of good reviews that have not been written.
  20. Those autogaurds i bought for £177 for 4 have been brilliant tbf
  21. Cheers john Its exactly what i want out of a car and id love to keep it but im at the point of needing to "fly the nest" so to speak and its the main drain on my income so ill have to part with her :( Yes ill check out the auris section, im assuming by that they dont achieve the book figure of 40ish mpg?
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