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Everything posted by kevinf

  1. If it of any help l’ve recently scrapped a 2003 d4d 5dr, the vehicle went to Rotherham car and van breakers 01709 529922 I fitted a new non genuine tank about 4/5 years ago good luck
  2. Yes ask as many questions as you need, once the sub frame is out of way, which you can remove before you need to support the engine and the drive shafts are removed there’s enough room to bring the box downwards with a couple of helpers or maybe a trolley jack!!!
  3. Hi jim did the clutch on my RAV4 twice over the 11yrs I owned it, luckily both times I had use of a two post ramp, but it still a mammoth job. I’m sure you could do it on your drive! Their used to be a permanent post on the forum about this job but I think it’s been removed, once you start the job it’s pretty obvious what needs to come off, engine will need supporting and the subframe needs to come off you can leave the steering rack attached to steering column, just unbolt rack from subframe, note unless it’s been converted it should have a DMF so you may have to remove the gearbox before you buy the clutch so you get the right one, also the gearbox and rear wheel drive unit come out in one piece, the gearbox just wraps around the back of the engine. hope this helps,
  4. Recently had to change turbo and no4 con rod (so cylinder head gasket renewed all filters changed) engine ran ok for several 20/30 mile trips including motorway trips 70+mph and starts perfectly from cold,but recently the engine cut out with warning whilst in slow moving traffic and wouldn’t restart for about 20 minutes then started and continued to run, the engine still starts perfectly from cold but either won’t or is difficult to start when warm and seems to accelerate fine but runs out of steam at the top end of the Rev range, I borrowed a snap diagnostic system and recovered the following faults codes which all cleared and haven’t reoccurred P0100 maf circuit fault, P1115 air temp circuit fault, P1215 edu circuit fault, P1670 injection pump fault when the engine refuses to start symptoms are flat battery/lazy starter motor i have fitted a new earth lead to the engine block directly from the battery negative post, cut still experiencing same faults any suggestions, anybody experienced this before! before I start throwing expensive parts at it thanks Kevin
  5. Have you checked the engine oil hasn’t been diluted with diesel, don’t have any experience of the 2.2 engine. But just rebuilt a 2.0 d4d engine due to a blown turbo and bent con rod. and had the injector fuel leak off pipe leak diesel into the cam cover, diluting the engine oil and allowing a Diesel /engine oil vapour mixture to induction system, which caused white smoke mine was very severe smoke due to the fact that I had allowed the engine to idle for a long time after the engine rebuild and it was quite a big leak on the pipe which literally dumped 3-4 litres of diesel into the sump
  6. Hi cyker initial enquires at local breakers come back at between £600-800 they tend to sell the engines and ancillaries such as turbo’s separately
  7. Just had the turbo fail on my 2003 2.0 D4D, causing the engine to hydraulically lock and bend no4 con rod, l am looking for recommendations for parts suppliers, happy to consider used parts suppliers for turbo and con rod if you can recommend any specialist Toyota breakers, also need all the necessary tightening torques for when I rebuild the engine, is there a online workshop manual available or any links to the information needed cheers kevin
  8. attempting to remove the cylinder head and got as far as removing the injectors, noted the strange looking banjo bolts on the fuel leak off rail, I thought that I needed to use a 6 mm Allen key to remove the banjo bolt, but only removed a blanking plug will the banjo bolts screw out of the injectors as you would expect and if so what’s the blanking plugs for thanks
  9. Hi there Thanks for your replies, on your advice I've ordered new drop links to go with the new springs, as mentioned cheap enough not to bother trying to free them off cheers kevin
  10. Hi all just had the wife's RAV fail the test on rear coil spring broken, has any one had the pleasure of changing the rear springs, is it simply a case of Un bolting lower shocker mount and lowering the wishbone or is it more involved?
  11. Hi all thanks for your input ! just to confirm the fuel filter was the first thing I changed with a good quality one, starting is ok so don't suspect the fuel pipes are drawing air but will check them any way I think the next step will be to get the sender unit out, but if it does turn out to be the SCV's any recommendations of where to get them from ? thanks
  12. Hi all I have a 2003 rav4.2 d4d approx. 110k mileage which as recently developed a intermittent flat spot, car starts ok and normally as plenty of power ,then losses power normally in 2nd gear when accelerating power normally returns and car continues to drive normally, occasionally car will lose power in 5th gear and engine warning light comes on. stopping engine, switching ignition off normally clears the fault. I have managed to borrow a snap-on code reader, first time I read the codes I got various non related codes, I had tried to disconnect things like MAF and MAP sensors so I cleared the codes, then retested, no fault codes, I then drive the car with the code reader connected and monitored the fuel rail pressure I experienced the fault several times and every time the fuel rail pressure dropped to 290 bar, but no engine warning light and no fault codes, finally after a couple of days the warning light came on again, when read fault code P1228 came up ! having read previous topics referring to scv valves, before jumping in and replacing them I do have another issue recently I noticed that the fuel tank developed a damp patch when full, so a new fuel tank is required I am wondering could it possibly be rust in side the fuel tank intermittently blocking the low pressure pump, could this cause similar symptoms to the SCV valves, can I get the pump out to check with out removing the tank? just trying to make a informed decision before I start throwing money at the car, potentially looking at replacing fuel tank, low pressure pump and scv,s thanks
  13. hi folks I joined the forum some time back when the wife bought a rav4. but now find I need help with a land cruiser, my wife and her sister run a uk based charity which has built up and runs a day nursery/feeding station in monkey bay, Malawi (Africa) ,recently when the sister in law was out there she purchased a 60 series ( she or the other people with her at the time have very little mechanical knowledge) I've never seen the vehicle I'm travelling out there for the first time this Saturday and have just found out it's got a electrical problem when parked up for any longer than a day the battery/batteries appear to go flat, so apart from the obvious faulty Battery, Alternator not producing sufficient charge to fully charge the battery or faulty Alternator draining the battery when stood or even something left on that nobody knows about! I wondered if anybody knew of any common faults on this model which could cause this problem as it appears to be producing some charge as it starts unaided after being bump started and driven, also I thought all LCs had 24 volt starting systems, but I'm told this one is 12volt? I know this is a hard question to answer but any obscure bit of knowledge may save a lot of time, trouble and money and it would be nice if I could take out any parts I might need! (within reason) many thanks kevin
  14. hi chris yes clutch works fine,just looked back and it seems like it was about 18 months ago when the dmf failed,the parts kit cost £360 part no HKF1005,which included flywheel, complete clutch and flywheel and clutch cover bolts kevin
  15. does sound like the dmf as failed! i replaced mine last year with a borg and beck smf kit, no problems apart from clutch pedal seems very light and was a pain in the backside to bleed
  16. not got round to it yet! have to wait till the weather get a bit better has i will be doing it on the drive, unles i bite the bullet and beg the boss and get it in at work!!!! (rather park the car up and walk to work than do that)
  17. many thanks anchorman looks like ive got a fun packed weekend coming up cheers kevin
  18. thanks for the replys have just checked out the keys on ebay they are exactly what im after looks like il be changing the pump as well as the cam belt.,what do you mean by the instructions are pinned? cheers kevin
  19. hi folks i've got a 03 plate D4D thats coming up to 60,000 mile and im assuming cam belt time? and i've noted crystalised coolant forming round the water pump tell tale hole and as required no more than small infrequent top ups over the last three years! my question is this is the water pump designed to allow small quantities of coolant to leak thru the gland seal to lubricate it,thus not a source of concearn as is the case with other manufactures such as mercedes-benz or should I change the pump whilst doing the cam belt? also does any body know the part numbers or where i can get the plastic parts of the ignition keys from local dealer cant find them listed my steel blades are ok and the remote buttons work etc its just the plastic housings are cracked and are held together with tape at the moment cheers kevin
  20. to get back on topic I bled the clutch up to get the best pedal i could then used the car for the last few days and gradually the pedal as improved,so obviously some trapped air as worked its way out! so the wife gets here car back,i get the drive my beloved landrover,the cycle to work was killing me
  21. you star it does bite near the bottom, but does clear nicely and gear change doesnt seem to be effected its just the bit of perceived travel on the pedal before you feel any hydraulic resistance thats worrying me, but has i drive a proper landrover i,ve got used to a clutch pedal that makes your calf muscles burn when in stop/start traffic,so maybe i am imagining a problem thats not there cheers kevin
  22. thanks for the prompt and helpfull as ever reply g/box is back in, went for the SMF option unfortunately had a mis-app with clutch pedal being pressed whilst the slave cylinder was unbolted from the bell-housing and had a hell of a job bleeding the hydraulic system so first question what is the small square housing mounted directly above the slave cylinder and piped into the hydraulic circuit and second question has any else fitted a Smf conversion kit and did they notice if it altered the feel of the clutch pedal? cheers kevin
  23. hi anchorman thanks for the reply, actually got the box out saturday afternoon just took me a long time to realise that the suspension sub frame had to come off and that it came off so easily,also i decided to remove both drive shafts completely and i removed the anti-roll bar from the sub frame the nuts on the link rods looked a bit too rusty to come undone with out shearing btw what oil do you put in the main box, the transfer box filler plug states 85/90 but the g/box filler plug is not very clear? cheers kevin
  24. hi folks first time ive posted a topic here! but the wife 03 plate D4D rav just got towed home courtesy of the rac, has the title says NO DRIVE the clutch pedal feels ok and gear selection feel ok,but when selecting gear and letting the clutch out it feels like its taking up drive until I try to drive away then nothing,can also hear a tinny rattle from the bell housing so guess the clutch plate centre has broken up!!! so looks like i am taking out the gearbox this weekend! so what sort of job is it?? can i do it on the drive,does the main box and transfer box come out together or seperately,do i need to remove the front drive shafts from the gearbox or can i peel back the inner rubber boots a pull the drive shafts out of the drive members,plus any other tips/advice many thanks in anticipation kevin
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