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About sceh

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    Classic Cars
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  1. The problem with the box is that it is most likely more expensive to produce, productize and service than a reliable proper automatic box and , wrorse, any problem is met with 'change the clutch mechanism' by Toyota dealers. No-one seems to know anything about it! This is usually more costly than the value of the car. I scrapped a perfectly nice Yaris with only 60k kms because of this and am about to do the same wit the current one after 55K
  2. Since this is a manual box with an electronic control and clutch, the fluid will be normal gearbox oil without a filter - unlike a proper automatic with auto fluid and usually a built in filter inside the box. Curiously I can find no information about the box or an exploded diagram. Toyota have probably removed all mention since the box is such an embarrassment...
  3. 2004 Yaris petrol with the MMT box. Do I need to change whatever fluid is inside it or is it lubricated by the engine oil? Or is is sealed for 'life' thanks for any hints
  4. I have a 2005 Yaris (petrol). Normally I average around 5-7 litres per 100kms. Suddenly I notice it is 15. When I run the car and look at the instantaneous consumption it is between 5 and 8 under acceleration but when I take my foot off and it overruns or coasts, it shoots up to 35. This is obviously distorting the average measurement. I though fuel consumption on overrun or coasting would be close to zero. Any ideas why this is like this without reading the ODB?
  5. sceh

    Yaris Starter Issue

    So, it seems that the problem is that the solenoid engages (the dull click) but the motor does not turn because the brushes are making a bad contact.In the case of a bad battery, the solenoid engages and the motor tries to turn and the noise is a bit different. The hammer improves the brush contact but the real answer is clean the brushes and contacts
  6. 2004 Yaris, petrol. The car runs OK but yesterday I tried to start and nothing happened. No starter. There was a sort of dull click which I could hear inside when I tried to start so I assumed it was the solenoid jamming or not engaging. Makes sense? Usually you have this effect when the battery is almost flat but this is not the case. So I gave the solenoid a good welt with a hammer and it starts (very scientific..) Looks like it is the solenoid? Can it be oiled or anything (if you agree with the diagnosis). If not, any suggestions? Could it be the starter motor? Thanks for any pointers
  7. and BTW, they do not give better mpg or emissions in practice than proper boxes - manual or auto. The reason they use them is that they think they can cut down costs by having high volumes of the same base box.
  8. Given that they screwed up the MMT, the chances of their VVT working is roughly nil. Why can't they just use standard auto boxes from Germany like everyone else? I have had two MMT boxes and both packed up at 50k kms. Rubbish. You just need to read the workshop manual to realise what a bag of worms this is. You need to CHANGE (not upgrade the software..) an ECU when you adjust the clutch ferchrissakes. Avoid the VVT like the plague and I would also avoid their hybrids. Until you have worked with the Japanese mentality you have no idea...
  9. sceh

    Tachyon Obd2

    Got it working OK but have no Diagnostic codes for the MMT box when it shows the warning light. Any ideas why?
  10. I have tried it and it is great but does it not have the CVT? Given Toyotas capability to make a simple concept work (MMT), I would steer clear
  11. sceh

    Tachyon Obd2

    Has anybody used the Tachyon OBD reader specially designed for Toyota protocols? I have one but haven't dare to plug it in yet (Yaris 1 litre MMT) sicne the last one of another make screwed up the engine temporarily. Do I risk anything here? thanks
  12. sceh

    Yaris Mmt - No Drive

    If it were the clutch not engaging would there not be an error code and warning?
  13. sceh

    Yaris Mmt - No Drive

    it drops out when driving and when I stop and restart the engine, I hear the clink when I go into D or R but there is no drive. Increasing the revs makes no difference
  14. sceh

    Yaris Mmt - No Drive

    No drive means the engine runs OK but in D or R or manual select there is no traction so the car does not move at all. It happens when it is cold mainly because it rarely has time to get warm but I tired running the engine for while yesterday and it seemed better. I don't really have decent statistics yet. However, there is no engine warning light or gearbox light and no flashing N
  15. Possibly not a new topic but a variant. My Yaris will, fairly frequently, have no drive but there is no gearbox warning light as there used to be. If I switch off and then on again after a few minutes it will usually go again after 3-4 tries. Curiously I just tried using an OBD2 scanner and this started just after reading codes. However, no codes from the ELM scanner related to anything other than not being able to read an oxygen sensor. The engine runs fine. Why no gearbox light? thanks