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Milky Bar Kid 1001

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  • First Name
    Richard
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    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Avensis TR D4D Tourer
  • Toyota Year
    2008
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    Greater London
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  1. My 2008 Avensis is running 215/50 R17's but I'm sure I've seen somewhere they should 45 profile. Have been fitting the wrong size or is the information I've seen wrong. It came 50 profiles when I bought the car so naturally carried on that line.
  2. I can relate to this issue. I've 2008 (58 T25) 2.0lt D4D with 157,000 mls on the clock. When I first bought it (with 75,000 mls) I was getting almost 500 miles to a tank but over the years and especially now it now gets around 460 miles (less if I've used the A/C but I know this will drop the range any way so I take that into account). I service it every year (I was originally doing around 11/12,000 miles a year but now do around 7/8,000 miles a year) and use quality oil and decent oil filters (Blueprint) and change air filters when required. I've noticed some blow by when the engine is running and the oil filler cap is removed and oil residue on the inlet side of the turbo, but I'm assuming this from breather pipe which goes on to the air intake from the air filter. It's never really had the "pick up" on acceleration (I've driven other Avensis with the same engine and same (ish) mileage and they've seemed a lot quicker) and when I do/ give it a boot it has chucked out black smoke (I realise this is the unburnt fuel being dumped out) but it does a seem a bit thick.
  3. Hi, I'm looking for where the best place/s would be to find a couple trim piece replacement. I'm looking for a complete interior (front) lamp unit as mine has fallen apart. I've found similar replacements on the usual auction site but mine has the integrated motion sensors and button which the ones I've found don't have (even though the part numbers seem the same. I've got a quote from the Toyota dealership (Steven Eagell of St Albans, Hertfordshire) we use at work but the complete unit would cost more than the car is worth(!!!!) so am obviously looking at different avenues. I'm also in need of a replacement boot cover in my estate (attaches behind the rear seats and has the integrated net) as the plastic stoppers (???) that slot into the side trims and stop it retracting have snapped off, I've done a bodge job with fixing them but have now re-broken and are beyond repair again. Does anyone have any ideas where I could buy either of these two bits??? Would breakers yard keep these bits or would they not be interested in having them sat on their shelves?? Any advice greatly appreciated Rich 😎😎
  4. I wonder if anyone can relate to this issue or offer advice. I've 2008 (58 T25) 2.0lt D4D with 157,000 mls on the clock. When I first bought it (with 75,000 mls) I was getting almost 500 miles to a tank but over the years and especially now it now gets around 460 miles (less if I've used the A/C but I know this will drop the range any way so I take that into account). I service it every year (I was originally doing around 11/12,000 miles a year but now do around 7/8,000 miles a year) and use quality oil and decent oil filters (Blueprint) and change air filters when required. I've noticed some blow by when the engine is running and the oil filler cap is removed and oil residue on the inlet side of the turbo, but I'm assuming this from breather pipe which goes on to the air intake from the air filter. It's never really had the "pick up" on acceleration (I've driven other Avensis with the same engine and same (ish) mileage and they've seemed a lot quicker) and when I do/ give it a boot it has chucked out black smoke (I realise this is the unburnt fuel being dumped out) but it does a seem a bit thick. I've just checked the turbo with an endoscopy and I think it looks ok (if it doesn't then could someone let me know please!) but can't reach deep enough inside to reach the impeller and check for excessive movement. It does whistle on boost. Any help/ advice greatly appreciated!! Rich 😎😎
  5. Yeah it wasn't a complicated job, two bolts (possibly 12mm can't remember) and remove the old valve then fit the new modified one with the gaskets/ seals (everything comes in the kit). The first time I fitted it and started it up it revved flat out (so make sure you've started the car before doing this job to ensure the oil is around the engine!!!) so switched it off ASAP and fitted the spacer (in the kit) and restarted the engine and it idled at normal speed (around a 1000 rpm in my case, not sure if that's normal when cold but still). Unfortunately I didn't know i needed the spacer so it was just a case of try it and see but I now assume that you do need the spacer regardless.
  6. Had the same issue about 5yrs ago, I changed the Suction Control Valve due to there being an upgraded part which has stronger springs inside the unit. Bought the part from a Diesel Specialist who sent me a OEM Part in a genuine box for cheaper than my local Toyota dealer (I'm a mechanic so was trade price) could sell me. Took 5 minutes to fit, I needed the spacer provided and the ar has started up first time every time even in these current Beast from East conditions.
  7. Hi, just wondering if anyone else's has the same thing or if there's a bulb missing. My 2008 T25 has always had the wing mirror controls unlight the Traction Control and headlamp adjuster dial illuminated. Should it all be lit up across the panel or is are the minor controls meant to be unlight?? I would upload a picture but I keep getting an Server Error message (has anyone else experienced this or am doing something wrong??) so unfortunately can't show you. If it is meant to be lite across the panel is it easy to remedy?? Thanks Rich 😁🤔
  8. Hi, wonder if anyone can advise me on either how much or if anyone has (by sheer coincidence) the interior lamp unit (part number from the unit) 81263-05230 Mine has the ultra sonic unit fitted so has the button to deactivate them when window are open but car locked. All the ones on a well known auction site don't have the button and I'm struggling to find anyone who has one. Ideally I'm looking for the complete unit (sorround plus bulb unit). Any help appreciated
  9. I had a similar problem like that a few years ago with poor starting when cold (around 1-2°C sort of temperature) turned out to be the fuel shut off valve (side of the diesel pump and end of head) which has an upgrade due to the original spring internally not being strong enough, new has either strong spring or double spring to stop this problem. I bought the new valve from a Diesel Specialist (came in a genuine Toyota box with gaskets and spacers) for a fraction of the price dealers charge. If I can find the receipt I'll upload a picture. Maybe not be your problem but could be worth looking at
  10. I had a similar problem like that a few years ago with poor starting when cold (around 1-2°C sort of temperature) turned out to be the fuel shut off valve (side of the diesel pump and end of head) which has an upgrade due to the original spring internally not being strong enough, new has either strong spring or double spring to stop this problem. I bought the new valve from a Diesel Specialist (came in a genuine Toyota box with gaskets and spacers) for a fraction of the price dealers charge. If I can find the receipt I'll upload a picture. Maybe not be your problem but could be worth looking at.
  11. Possibly internals of the gearbox could be failing eg a shaft bearing (input shaft bearing for example). I'm no gearbox expert but just suggesting.
  12. Is this a similar procedure on the 1.33 engined IQ's??
  13. The car has been dealer serviced for first three years of its warranty and then serviced by me (I'm a mechanic so doing the jobs aren't an issue) and the car has never had anything done to the gearbox ie oil changes so it'll be running the original oil from factory.
  14. Definitely tempted to do this conversation, know it doesn't look complicated as I've ramps and all the necessary tools at work. Plus the axles themselves are relatively cheap and readily available.
  15. I was wondering about this swap as well. You can buy rear axles off the net from breakers yards. I'd say it would work as I'd assume the ABS bearings would the same so the computer wouldn't be confused with the front and rear readings. All you need to do was buy brake caliper handbrake cables as the drum ones attach to the shoes so would be different. I work as a mechanic I'd try it and see what happened (if anything did). If I ever do do the conversion I'll let you know if it went ok or not and if any problems did arise if they can be easily sorted.
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