qettyz

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About qettyz

  • Rank
    Club Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    T
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Auris TS Hybrid
  • Toyota Year
    2014
  • Location
    Other/NonUK

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  1. Viofo A119 is good and if you want also rear cam, then A129.
  2. Here is quite many dashcam topics with hardwiring diagrams. Search em up and start wiring 😉
  3. I write this to this thread, because title is quite perfect. 2014 Auris owner also here, TPMS system on the car has been pain in the ***. Once i paid 40€ to the dealer for teaching winter tires to the ECU and last summer time i watched TPMS light on the dash :(. Tried with couple MINI VCI cables and Techstream without luck. Today i received Autel MaxiTPMS TS501 and was able to read sensor codes from the tires and teach those to the ECU via obd2 in like 10mins. But yeah, this tool is not so cheap(~200€). Luckily i have some friends what i can share this with. Just heads up for someone dealing same TPMS "fun" with 2014, especially if someone goes and pays 2 x 40 € in year to teach new tires..
  4. This will work also, same transaxle.
  5. Hey, thanks for the update. Lets wait and see what happens;)
  6. How much miles on the car? On the PriusChat there is many reports that >150k miles EGR system starts to block out and needs to be cleaned or replaced. EGR system parts: cooler, valve, pipe ftom valveto intage manifold, then small egr passages on intage manifold. Rough starting, lowspeed are reported for example when EGR is blocked. EGR cleaning videos along with others on this thread: https://priuschat.com/threads/prius-gen-3-major-maintenance-egr-manifold-spark-plugs-oil-catch-can.203069/
  7. Found good position for unit from driver side next to the obd socket and fuse box. There was free M6 hole and i screwed unit with loctite. Good clearance from pedals and wheel column. 🙂
  8. Oh well. Big note to myself and to this thread: That slot cannot be used. There is moving part for air intake from outside or to circulate inside air. Amp forced inside air circulate on and didnt have to drive alot to note that. Gotta find better position then.....
  9. Something what came to my mind while installing this, Match Toyota wiring harness can be bought separatly and would be awesome help for installing some another amp what can take high input for example Audison Prima AP4.9bit. Of course you need to modify it and route power cable from battery etc and NOT use power from main unit. Those Toyota Match wiring harness are 24,90€ here at Finland, easily worth it. Edit: Some measurements Audison Prima AP4.9Bit 198mm x 45,50mm x 134mm Match PP 41DSP 185mm x 44mm x 124mm Audison would about ~ also fit to the same slot behind the glove box!
  10. Hello, Previously i changed my speakers to Alpine ones and got little bit better sound to my car. Still i was not very happy. Today i went and bought Match PP 41DSP plug & play amplifier. External Image album in case of these forum images will disapear: https://ibb.co/album/dgzLgF Amplifier is marketed to be plug & play. I bought Toyota version and it came with Toyota wiring harness. Amplifier get everything it needs from the wiring harness, separate power cable is not needed (at least 20A fuse to standard car audio system is required). Match PP 41DSP is quite small On the back side is different Toyota version list. Each number is different configuration on the DSP what can be changed with two buttons. Let the tear down begin, i had some help from Toyota-Tech. Audio unit was held with four 10mm screws. Match wiring harness goes between these two connectors and stock audio unit. There was perfect slot behind the glove box. top of air filter for Match. With little soft padding i was able to secure it to the place without fear of rattling noise or it moving around. With these pros and cons its good to note that i have changed my stock speakers to Alpine SXE-17CS 6.5 kits previously and DSP program is done for stock speakers. I found some installation notes from some BMW install saying that you can easily change stock ones to little better with this one without fear that DSP is then way off. I could image that stock speakers could benefit this maybe more than these Alpines. Pros: + much clearer stereo "feel" + sound is more level from whole range from low to high + deeper low end + super easy plug & play install + rear speakers sounds better Cons: - DSP levels cannot be programmed, you need to buy PP 62DPS for that - stock Audio unit seems to cut bass low when volume is tuned way up, DSP wont compensate that - 4 x 35W 4ohm RMS is not gonne blow your mind
  11. Yeah gotta maybe believe that both bulps would be maybe failing same time. First time for me then in 20y of driving 🙂 Very easy to start diagnosing this too deeply.
  12. I started thinking same, better buy new bulps. Maybe its not at all the connector what made those working again, it was bulp itself what was wiggled along with the connector. Tomorrow i go buy new ones and see how weekend will then go.
  13. Oh my, i thought that there is old school H4, but it seems to be HIR2 halogen. Googled the bulp type and it has 90 degree connector and that was just the thing i was wiggling. I wonder if replacing both bulps would fix this easily, but hard to believe this is because of them, i kind suspect the connector still.
  14. I will continue to this same topic even this is not DLR related, but lighs still. Week ago i noticed my right low beam missing and suprisely also high beam did not work. I thought first that it has to be then fuse. It was not, then opened back cover of the right light unit and touched the wire connector what is connected to light bulp itself(or some part behind it) and lights started to working right away. I figured out that it was some GND issue...but strange one. Today then after work i noticed and either of the front low or high beams are not working, only thing working is DLR's and dimmed DLR's to be park lights. Went and took a look front light wiring diagrams what i previously got from toyota-tech.eu. There is master 30A fuse and after that there is smaller 15A fuses to both front lights separatly. Common GND point to all lights. Then went and measured that 30A fuse.. emh it was OK. then measured all of them in engine bay.Everything OK! So it has to be GND point then somehow i thought, but again opened (same right) light back coved and wiggled the connector little bit and here im standing again with working right light unit, did same wiggling to left light unit and it started also working right awat. What the f..? Both light units seem to be moisture free, connectors are under rubber cover. I could accept one of the connector to have some faulty what needs some cleaning or why ever it does that but come on! both of them. My plan tomorrow: After work i dive deep to my engine bay and try to clean out both of those connectors and take better look what is going on. This is the wiring diagram. Both connectors somehow seem to have poor GND pin on the connector maybe or something strange is going on 🤔 EDIT: connectors are not same ones as in the first post on this thread.