Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information


plasma99

Registered Member
  • Content Count

    50
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

5 Neutral

About plasma99

  • Rank
    Club Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Peter
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Avensis 2.2 D4D T3-X
  • Toyota Year
    2007
  • Location
    Cambridgeshire
  • Interests
    General Automotive
    Computers & Electronics

Recent Profile Visitors

2,070 profile views
  1. Just a quick update to this. The alternator failed shortly after my last post. I think now that that was the original cause of the squealing and burning. However, the air con is still not working - I don't know if the two failures are related or which of them happened first. I got the alternator changed but unfortunately the car failed it's MOT for a catastrophic failure of a rear brake pipe. I was quoted £300 to fix. I was also advised that it needed a new battery, new brake discs/pads all around and a fix to some sort of oil leak relating to the timing chain/drive belt cover?? - m
  2. Diagnostics - With ignition off, hold down the AUTO and RECIRCULATE buttons. Then turn on the ignition. Let go of the buttons and wait for a few seconds. Mine settled on flashing "00" which I think means all is OK in terms of pressure. I definitely suspect the compressor clutch now.
  3. can't really say. It was just a general burning smell. Can just the clutch be replaced - if it was that?
  4. Stivino, I don't really want to spend any money on re-gassing it the compressor has stopped working. But I think you have answered my original question - I can keep using it without bypassing the compressor because the current belt is just driving the compressor pulley? P.S. Is it really difficult to change the drive belt or am I just being an idiot?
  5. not at the moment. No audible change in engine tone when you hit the A/C button. It was definitely working before the squeal started.
  6. Hi. My Avensis engine started making a squealing noise which perfectly matched the engine revs. There were some accompanying burning smells which entered the cabin. I thought it was a slipping drive belt so ordered a new one. However, a few days later the squealing stopped. I thought that the problem had resolved itself until I discovered that the air con in no longer working. I am now guessing that the AC compressor failed. Reading previous posts, most people complain about a tractor like rattling noise coming from a failed compressor and bypass it with a shorter belt. I have no such
  7. Were there any minor/advisory items listed or was it a clean pass?
  8. Just an update in case anyone is following this. I tried the 'heater full on' trick for a 30 mile journey but it made no difference. Still rushing water noise on startup. I am going to clean the coolant from the underside of the engine cover above the aux belt and see if it reappears. Might indicate a water pump leak. My internet searching has found this problem described on many makes/models but there appears no firm solution except for 'burping' of the coolant system. I don't fancy running the engine with the coolant cap off for any sort of time.
  9. Hi Peter, I will try the heater trick again on a longer journey. What was the mlileage on yours when this happened? Are you sure yours was sorted permanently by doing this. I cannot help but think there must have been a reason for the original fault. I have tried to take a closer look at the water pump with a torch but cannot really see anything. I'll look for wetness on the aux belt when next hot. I undid the header tank cap when stone cold and there was only a small ssshhhh which I think (hope) is a good sign. I watched a youtube video of someone changing the water pu
  10. Got some pictures. Appears to be white marks under engine cover on lh side. Oil looks OK. Tried running heater for 10 mins on full but the rushing water still happening on startup.
  11. Duggerz, Thanks for the reply. Will check later.
  12. Yossarian247, Thanks for the reply. I am getting mentally prepared for this outcome. Would it be the combustion gasses collecting at the top of the system (heater matrix) after engine shutdown and being forced out on startup? It's strange that it only happens on startup, not when the engine is up and running. The only exception to this was when I carried out a three-point turn on a steep slope. I cannot remember the exact orientation of the car at the time but I did hear it during that turn. That's when I thought I might be low on coolant and the filler tank not reporting this c
  13. I experience a gushing water sound everytime I start my 2007 2.2 D4D Avensis. It appears to be coming from the heater area behind the dash. It's been going on for a long time but I ignored it for months because I thought I was trading in the car. Now I have decided to keep the car, I would like to get it sorted. If you stop the car anytime (hot or cold) and start again, you hear the gushing water for about 10 seconds. I'm not aware it uses any coolant. The level always remains just below the LOW mark. If I top up to HIGH, the level settles back to just below LOW after a few journeys
  14. Thanks for the reply. This is one job I think I might have to give to Toyota. I think they quoted me about £370 for the job.
  15. Toyota advised me that my brake pipes at the rear of the car are rusted and need replacing. If you buy the complete pipe, is it easy to transport home and can it be DIY fitted?
×
×
  • Create New...