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MikeSh last won the day on December 15 2016

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About MikeSh

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  1. WD40 is not a significant lubricant. It does light duty for a while but rapidly evaporates/disperses. I've done this trick with belts many times over 40 years or so and it's never been a problem ... well, only to the extent that within a few minutes to a few days the belt starts squeaking again. It's purely diagnostic.
  2. MikeSh


    NOT if you go over the 1,000 miles limit.
  3. Quite possibly the belt. Also the easiest to check and fix, so eliminate that first. Quick test: before starting pop the bonnet, check how to get to the belt and have a can of WD40, with extension nozzle fitted, in hand. Start the engine, listen to squeak, squirt a bit of WD40 onto the inside of the belt or the contact face of a pulley (obviously keep ties, fingers, etc, out of the moving parts). If the squeak stops - it's the belt. Then decide if it needs adjusting or replacing (condition? tension?). If the noise doesn't change it's something else, maybe water pump or alternator.
  4. That's rather a "how long is a piece of string" question. There are three probable/possible failure modes (but a lot of variations within each). 1/ It gets noisier and noisier until you can't stand it and get it fixed (not a failure as such, I know). 2/ It breaks such that no drive is transmitted in one or more gears. You're not going anywhere or not without difficulty. 3/ It breaks such that the drivetrain seizes/jams completely. You're going to stop very suddenly. If you never go out of town or over 30 mph then 3 may be an acceptable risk. If you regularly hit the bypass
  5. That's actually to be expected. Telling them you have a leaky roof means they then considered there is an increased risk of a claim for that in the future, regardless of whether you were claiming for this incident. It's a sort of pre-existing condition.
  6. I'd check the oil level too before driving it again, and then check it and the coolant often (say every 50 mile intervals) for a couple of hundred miles to make sure the overheating hasn't caused any other damage. (Overheating can damage gaskets or warp parts resulting in leaks. If your oil or coolant disappear without you noticing the next warning light could = ££££s.)
  7. The potential problem with not reporting an incident to your own insurer is that if they hear about it indirectly (bear in mind the interconnected databases in use) they may be upset. Also, if the other party, or insurers, decide you were actually at fault in some way and try to counter-claim (and no matter how obvious the blame is we've all heard of this happening) then again your insurers could say you haven't complied ... blah, blah. Do you feel lucky, punk?
  8. Because people often turn the rear fogs on and then forget them many cars have systems to ensure that they are turned off when the other lights are turned off - it may even be a requirement nowadays. (On our older Yaris I think it's a mechanical action on the stalk). Sounds like your switch acts like a pushbutton which turns them/it on and then they'll go off when the other lights are killed, and maybe if you turn the switch again. You could have a look in the manual of course.
  9. MikeSh


    Sounds like it might be an iffy interlock or the actual mechanism isn't operating correctly. (There will be a few people along to slag off the MMT shortly I expect.) First thing to check next time it doesn't start and before you play around with the shift, is to check what the indicator on the dash says. If it isn't N then it won't start (because the computer thinks it's not in neutral). If it is flashing then that indicates a problem and you really need to get a Toyota dealer involved. If it is showing a gear then it's probably been left in gear and you just need to put it in neutral (yo
  10. That's sort of true, but not. 'Regular' petrol in the US is about 91-92 RON whereas ours is 95, so it is a bit 'worse'. But they also use AKI not RON to designate it, so their regular petrol is actually 87 AKI - the number on their pump is 87. So when Americans say they put 87 or 89 gas in their tanks it's not as bad as it sounds to us. (And conversely if we talk about putting 95 in they may wonder what kind of rocket we are fuelling.)
  11. 'Chipping' or loading a 'tune' into the ECM isn't usually of much value unless done with physical changes - eg. to intake/air filter, exhaust, different cams or simply using a higher grade of fuel. (Using 97 or 99 RON instead of the standard 95 allows a more advanced spark which gives more power * ). What a lot of tunes/chips do is to alter the throttle response so it is more sensitive - less pedal travel for a given throttle change. This makes the car feel more responsive ("Wow, this tune has really made it come to life") but doesn't actually give you more power or torque ... and may mak
  12. Worldwide presumably. Toyota is twice the nearest rival ... we're obviously paying too much for these cars I wonder where VW would have been without dieselgate?
  13. I disagree - even filament DRLs are clearer and less energy consuming than dipped headlights. When I say clearer I mean in the sense of unambiguosity (not sure if that is a proper word) - dipped headlights can cause confusion.
  14. Well, that's exactly the gap that DRLs fill, and they are a lot better than dipped headlights.
  15. The are transparent so if you pull them out you can see the 'element'. If it's well blown it'll be fairly easy to see, but sometimes the break is little more than a crack, so the most reliable way to test is to connect a meter (set to Ohms) across the blades to check continuity.
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