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TS Flea

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Everything posted by TS Flea

  1. Looks great, just like mine... Desperately needs a drop though! :P
  2. Hi there, The transmission case and bell housing on my 2001 YTS needs to be replaced... :( Lets just say they got a bit "bent out of shape" from a botched repair job. Does anyone know whether the T-Sport shares the same housing with any of the other models? Obviously the internals would differ... Anyone have a spare tranny? Please! :!Removed!: Anyone...???
  3. Around 15-20 squids for the part + fitting!
  4. It's probably not the oil... I had the "diesel/chainsaw/sewing machine" effect from my engine a while ago... :) It turned out to be a faulty exhaust header gasket!
  5. Well, it turns out it was the differential making the noise... There are four cogs within the assembly that rotate together. The cog teeth were worn away a little and there was significant play of about 2-3 mm where there should have been none at all. My mechanic said that the only thing he could imagine causing this would be jumping on the gas when the car is cornering hard. Well yeah, I'm pretty guilty of that... I do get a little corner happy. Parts are going to cost about $300, plus the labor... :!Removed!: C'est la vie.
  6. Hi there, I have a little (large?) problem with my precious... :( My 2001 Yaris TS has 77.000 km on the clock. I had the transmission oil changed to synthetic (dealer recommended: Castrol TAF-X 75-90W) for the first time about 2 weeks ago. About a week ago my car developed a rather worrying loud grinding/clatter noise from the transmission area. I first noticed it when pulling away in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gear from low revs. The sound is drowned out by the exhaust in 1st and by the wind in 5th. When I take my foot off the gas the noise seems to go away. The grinding accelerates with the cars speed. Shifting action is unaffected. I drove the car in this state for another 600 km due to being abroad on holiday when it appeared. Yesterday I took the car to my friendly mechanic and he took it for a drive... He wasn't too happy. We got her up on a lift, started her up and proceeded to go through the gears as if I were driving it normally on the street… It reproduced the sound. We then turned the engine off and just spun the two front wheels individually by hand, again successfully reproducing the grinding at both wheels. I’m dropping the car off on Monday so they can take apart the tranny and look inside. I’m hoping for the best… Anyone experience or hear about such a problem? Any and all ideas and suggestions are welcome... Thanks in advance. B) TS Flea
  7. I've just ordered a K&N Typhoon as well... Read only good things about them over at the ScionLife.com forums... ;)
  8. I currently have Mobil1 5W-40 in my YTS and it definately sounds like a diesel...
  9. TS Flea

    Desiel Mods

    The chip should be the 1st mod on your list for a turbo diesel... A strut brace will not reduce understeer...
  10. TS Flea

    Engine Oil

    I'm using Mobil1 5W-40 in my YTS. Idle is smoother than with the previous oil I had and I definately feel a performance increase. (Less friction I guess) BUT, the valvetrain?/lifter?/injector? noise I'm getting is extremely annoying... My car sounds like a diesel, I kid you not. Chatter chatter chatter... The oil seems to be too thin for the engine. Mind you, I've read many posts about Mobil1 causing such problems in other engines as well... I'm going with Castrol next time round... Maybe... Hope this helps.
  11. TS Flea

    Engine Oil

    :hokus-pokus: Since changing to fully synthetic 5W-40 Mobil 1 oil about 700 miles ago, my YTS has developed a severe engine rattle... (valvetrain? lifters?) I'm presuming the oil is too thin for this engine. I have read on other forums about some Toyota engines not being too tolerant of high viscosity oils... I'm unsure whether the noise equals more wear or is just more annoying...
  12. According to my bathroom scale they are ~ 8.0 kgs each. That's 17.63 lbs. Not light at all. ;)
  13. Hi there... I just got my Yaris TS back from Toyota. I had an MOT done and a few other maintenance bits. These included: - Mobil1 5W-40 synthetic motor oil - oil filter - new air filter - new spark plugs - new coolant On my way home from the dealer I noticed that the engine note had changed... Especially in the lower RPM range. The car sounded more buzzy/raspy. It had lost it's throatyness. Even my girlfriend noticed this. After reaching home I opened up the hood and found the engine making a tapping/rattling sound at idle. While pulling on the throttle cable the noise was still there. It now sounds like a diesel engine! What could be wrong? Could the Mobil1 oil be too thin? Performance seems to have increased slightly... I'm a bit worried... :( All comments appreciated.
  14. :hokus-pokus: The TTE/Eibach springs both lower by 30mms. They are completely the same except for the name printed on them... I'm currently using the Eibachs on my YTS with the stock shocks. Pretty good, but I would recommend purchasing a set of adjustable shocks to pair them up with. i.e: Koni yellows or KYB AGX's... About that crank pulley... Get one! Even if you can't feel a difference (which I doubt) it is still a cheap mod... The guys over at Scionlife seem to like it though...
  15. Whiteline Heavy duty rear swaybar (22mm) Cost: 270 Aussie dollars including delivery. I EAT CORNERS! :arrgg-matey:
  16. TS Flea


    :hokus-pokus: As far as I know, THAT IS NOT the EL Prototypes product but a cheap copy... Other respected companies that have headers for the 1NZ-FE engine are: - DC Sports - Megan Racing Do a search on e-bay with the keywords:"scion headers" and you will find them... Here is a really good deal on the Megan ones: Megan Headers on E-Bay I think I'll get myself one as well...
  17. :hokus-pokus: That'll be the the locking mechanism of the hatch squeaking. Mine has been regreased on many occasions...
  18. If you are looking for more than just sound I would recommend a Cold Air Intake... Although the Apexi offers good filtartion I doubt there would be any real performance gain since the filter sits right beside the engine. heat soak = loss of power Do a search on http://www.echodrivers.com/forums/ for INTAKE.... You should be able to find some relevant info there...
  19. KW has the Variante 2 coilovers. Not cheap, but superb quality from what I hear/read. They are adjustable between 30-60 millimeters front and rear respectively. KW VARIANTE 2 for Corolla E12 The following European companies have springs available: - Eibach f30mm/r30mm - H&R has two versions available: f30mm/r30mm and f45mm/r45mm - VOGTLAND f35mm/r35mm - WEITEC f30mm/r30mm ;)
  20. My Dad's Honda Accord 2.2i Automatic (US model) :)
  21. Check the plastic coathook on the grab handle in the rear. It moves around and makes a really annoying noise... :arrgg-matey: A small strip of sticky backed foam does the trick.
  22. My YTS fitted with Eibach springs, riding on stock shocks and wheels has a 2 finger fender gap up front and 3 in the rear. Hope that helps...
  23. Try here, dude: EverythingCelica.com and here: NewCelica.org ;)
  24. TS Flea


    You DO NOT want to be drawing attention to your brake drums.... I say: Black.
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