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About thedigger

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  1. I'm still not sure what to do; in fact, until I've seen and driven the car, I won't be able to decide. The garage is 20 miles from where I live, so driving home will be an acid test, bearing in mind the light was coming on within about 3 miles previously. As for the warranty - it's not a third party warranty, it's with the garage themselves. If they have faith in the car, they should extend it to a reasonable length (6 or ideally 12 months). To be perfectly honest, I'd be happy if they only covered the engine in the warranty. For belt and braces, I'm probably going to buy a third party warranty anyway - from my experience, they don't ask for a full service history, and ask that you have had the car serviced within 12 months of taking the policy out, and get it serviced once during the 12 months of the policy. Hopefully I'll collect the car tomorrow (and gleefully handback the Shogun Pinin they have lent me.. the only time it felt like it was accelerating was when I went downhill), and will report back with my findings! Btw, 5w30 fully synth is the best oil for these engines isn't it?
  2. Sorry, didn't mention - it was blocked with sludge. In servicing the engine they will have removed most of the sludge I believe? The service wasn't done by the garage who sold it, but a local mechanic shop. There isn't a full service history, but the part service history and the colour of the oil in the car when I bought it suggests the oil wasn't that old.
  3. Hi all, Had an update from the garage today. They had it taken to a garage who confirmed the oil strainer was partially blocked. They have taken the sump off to remove the blockage and the car now drives without the oil pressure light coming on. They are also doing a full service, cleaning the engine and replacing the oil. Does that sound reasonable? <Edit> they didn't change the pressure switch incidentally...
  4. As an interim update, I got the car back to the garage this weekend. The AA towed it back there, despite it being a few miles further than they should have covered. The garage have lent me another car while it's being looked at (which I've pranged.... I'm such a tit ). They said it's going to their workshop tomorrow so I should hopefully know whether it's the pressure switch or not by then...
  5. Cheers Andy, will do. As an aside, I think we have worked together if you are the same Andy Pigott I'm thinking of!
  6. Sounds good. I will see the dealer at the weekend before writing the letter. It seems a little pointless complaining that a vehicle is unfit for purpose - if it can be repaired completed. I've already found details about the company, such as Managing Director (the guy I'm dealing with incidentally) and their incorporation date (they've been around since 2001 so not too worried about them disappearing any time soon).
  7. Thanks Kingo. Much as it may be tempting to slam the keys on their desk and demand my money back, I realise I have to play by their games a bit. And, like you say, if it turns out to be a sensor, I've got the car I wanted a week ago and everyone is happy. I'd like to keep everything amicable; from the other side, I'd be less inclined to help someone if they were making rash demands and telling me how to do my job. I'm sure this isn't the first car he's sold that there have been problems with. They've already said they'll take on any repairs to the car (if indeed it is fixable) and will loan us another car while this is being done, which I think is fairly reasonable. My eye is firmly on the clock though, and there's no way I'll let their warranty period elapse without being 100% with the car.
  8. The car is going back this weekend. I'll get the AA to take it there. We haven't agreed a refund yet, but I've checked that a refund is possible if I don't deem the car to be adequately repaired. He seems to think it's a faulty pressure switch. I don't see this. As soon as I got home last night, I googled the oil light issue and not one person had a faulty pressure switch. A few had dead engines. Just to clarify (ammunition for when I drop the car off), there is no "faulty pressure switch" issue affecting these engines?
  9. Charlie, I plan on rejecting the car but can't do that until I'm at home - I'm gonna say the engine sounds like crap, I've found a load of junk inside the filler cap and the engine is dying. We asked them specifically whether we should drive the car back to them, just to prevent them saying we were being negligent by driving it. It's a large used car dealer, we have a receipt and we paid by credit card so I'm satisified that we are covered on all bases. I don't want to wade in demanding my money back immediately as I want them to see what a bag of nails they've sold me, and hopefully resolve it amicably before even considering small claims courts.
  10. Thanks for the replies so far. My wife called them a few minutes ago (unfortunately due to my job, I can't make personal calls during the day easily :( ). They tried to fob her off saying it's the oil pressure switch, and we should bring it to them (ie, drive it) to get it looked at. They then tried to sell us a service on the car, at £80. They said if it's not making a metallic noise, there's no problem.... but if we hear a metallic sound, cut the engine immediately "as we have about a minute before the engine starts getting damaged". I'd say any metal-on-metal contact at at least 800 RPM is pretty much a dead (or severely weakened) engine immediately!! I suppose I should take comfort in the fact that they aren't denying responsibility for the problem, so kudos to them. I've asked my wife to run the engine, see if the light comes on, and if so, record the sound of the engine for me - she wasn't really sure what the engine was supposed to sound like, so wasn't sure if she could judge if it sounds different. I think I've concinced myself that a build up of sludge is starving the engine of oil, especially having googled the issue a bit more and seen it's fairly common. And rest assured, I won't change anything on the car myself.
  11. Thanks Ian, that's a great link! As I thought, the garage should be liable for this problem as the caris clearly not fit for purpose if there are engine problems 5 days after picking up the keys. And cheers Charlie... I'm starting to think I bought a lemon. I've never had problems worth high mileage cars before though
  12. Hi, thanks so much for all the reponses! Didn't expect to have so many so soon! I didn't get it from a main dealer, just a fairly large used car lot. They have over 100 cars in at any one time so I'm sure this won't be the first claim they've had. And the light flickers at first, then stays on solid. I've just checked the oil level again and it's right between the low and high dots on the dipstick. It also seems clean (a slightly browned honey colour), so it's not a case of neglected oil change. One thing which did concern me was the state under the oil filler cap: Is that sludge? I'm half tempted to run a can of engine cleaner like this"]]this one and change the oil and filter although in this case I'll definitely speak to the people I bought it from first. I'm kinda worried now. Not sure how to get it to the garage as they are 20 miles away and I only have AA recovery away from the home. :(
  13. Hi all, My first post here, so thanks in advance for taking the time to read and hopefully assist. We bought our new-to-us Rav 4 on Saturday. It's an 02 plate, 4.2 shape with a 2.0 vvti petrol engine. It had fairly high mileage on it when we bought it (140k), but we didn't think it was too much of a problem as we tend to do low mileage, the car looked and sounded in great condition, and Toyotas are among the most reliable car manufacturers. Or so I thought.... Since Saturday, we've done 140 miles. Tonight, we were going for a drive to a restaurant about 4 miles from our house when the oil light first started flickering about three miles into our journey. I stopped at a local petrol station and checked the oil level and colour and both seemed fine. I started the engine and the light was off, so continued the drive to our destination. While driving back, the oil light came on, again about half way into the journey. It flickered for a few seconds before staying on solidly. I drove home (the remaining two miles), keeping the revs low in an attempt to prevent wrecking the engine. When I was completely idling (ie, at traffic lights), the light would flicker or turn off. Does anyone know what could have caused this? Is the engine worn out? Should I stop driving the car until we've had it checked over? Also, where this car is under a used car dealer's warranty, what are they likely to say? Sorry to introduce myself with a bad news story; hopefully this will be fixed and my Rav and I will have many happy years together.
  14. Welcome to the Toyota forums thedigger :)