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IceHz

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  • Toyota Model
    Vitz SCP10

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  1. FCC is a regulatory commission who makes sure you use a authorized radio frequency (as in "don't conflict with another transmission"). The FCC number is the approval number give to the specific product. All Ya's will use the same frq band but will use a different hopping technique (or something similar) so when you press the unlock on your key all the cars in the parking lot won't unlock to get a correct transmitter & to get the immobilizer off (in case you have that also) you need to provide the tag that came with the original key. hope this helps. cheers. k
  2. ok... T says shift cable & ignition key lock cable (as in the morning couldn't take the key out from ign) needs replacing. the good people at Mr. T doesn't have stock & needs 6+ weeks to get it down, and they refuse to give the part number so i can try to get it down from dubai/singapore.... right now they have lubricated the shift cable & disconnected key lock cable. If any of you guys have access to the part number of the said cables of a right hand drive vitz (TA-SCP10AHPNK-D) would really appreciate it. Cheers
  3. Went out today and after returning parked the car and shifted to P (auto gear) and the lever was VERY hard to move, managed to move to N, switched off engine & restarted & tried... same as before. the normal shifting & locking in to gear is not happening anymore & there seems to be a even resistance right throughout the shift range. gears seems to be engaging correctly as the dash indicator changes properly. anyway removed the gear cable from the shift selector to check the selector & it moves flawlessly once the cable is removed... so i guess its something to do with the automatic transmission. earlier while driving did not notice any problem with performance & nothing was done to the car recently to cause this. anybody familiar with this problem or ever heard of it before? will take the car to Mr. T tomorrow thats about 20Km drive. hope the car can take it.
  4. Hmm... thats what Toyota used last time I got it cleaned from them, but some ppl recommend not to use it or electrical contact cleaners as they leave residue on the sensors. electronics cleaners OTH doesn't leave anything behind (as in residue.... hopefully the sensors will remain intact!) or 99% pure isopropyl... which is kinda hard to find here. Maybe I'll check out the contents of electronics cleaner & see how it is. BTW what on earth is a "pish cleaner" Thanks guys
  5. I came across couple of articles sarching on google that suggest using an electronic cleaner to get rid of the dirt. anybody out here done it? if so what did you use. Cheers. k
  6. ..and here I was all these days thinking that indicator was there to remind you the engine is running..!!! <sigh> :P but seriously... hope its nothing serious but better get it checked out. Cheers!
  7. This is what the owners manual say: __________________________________ "API grade SH, "Energy-Conserving II" or SJ, "Energy-Conserving" multigrade engine oil or ILSAC multigrade engine oil Recommended viscosity for 1SZ-FE engine: -07C to +38C : 20W-50 -11C to +38C : 15W-40 -18C to +38C : 10W-30 -29C to +38C : 5W-30 Tempereture ranges anticipated before next oil change SAE 5W-30 is the best choice for your vehicle, for god fuel economy, and good starting in cold weather. If you use SAE 10W-30 or a higher viscosity engine oil in extreme low temperatures, the engine may become difficult to start, so SAE 5W-30 engine oil is recommended." _____________________________________ What I currently use is Mobil Super S 15W-50 (Semi-Synthetic) here in the tropics we don't get a winter and the temperature is always around 28C to 32C
  8. Hi... Correct me if I'm wrong (which I hope I am) Tielaoda TJJ-2088 is ONLY a central locking (C/L) system, atleast thats what I could figure out by googling for it. In that case you won't be getting the remote key fob. But assuming it has the remote key fob this is what you have to do: The easiest way is to use the central lock/unlock switch on the driver door control panel & control the factory fitted actuators, wire up the lock/unlock wires from the 3rd party C/L unit to this switch. These are the thin wires on the connector on top behind the cowl side trim board. they are the control wires NOT the power wires to the actuator so make sure you are connecting the control signals to those wires. Yaris uses a negative trigger C/L system so your aftermarket product should also be negative trigger. Also factory fitted C/L operates on a pulse from the door control panel switch, if your 3rd party device gives out a continues output the door switch will stop functioning when you hook up the new system. The wire color codes are brown/white & green/red. which is lock & which is unlock I didn't note down when I installed my car alarm... yeah real stupid..!!! :ffs: This is for a PI Vitz it should be the same for a Yaris but better check it out first. You can use a test bulb to isolate the correct wires. Post back with more details of the C/L unit you bought coz there maybe additional connections like door sensors or lock/unlock warning indicators. Sorry if this reply sounds confusing, I'm just trying to cover as much ground as possible with the limited info you provided. Cheers!
  9. Tested Car: Yaris 1.0L, 2006, 5 Door, LHD ADULT OCCUPANT PROTECTION: 5 Stars CHILD OCCUPANT PROTECTION: 3 Stars PEDESTRIAN PROTECTION: 2 Stars Link: http://www.euroncap.com/content/safety_rat...tings.php?id1=6
  10. There you go... that only leaves one possibility.... the car is bugged :(
  11. Yeah... this seems to be Vitz specific thing. Has a big red exclamation mark on the label as well. I'm most certain its nothing to do with airbags (the SRS controller is tucked behind the garnishing below the stereo) Could be something to do with central locking... best not to meddle with it as the exclamation mark wouldn’t be there unless its handling some serious business
  12. thanks gerard for the info... will check it out. ...and Vipes that was totally uncalled-for, no one here is an expert (ok... maybe we can exclude few of you ) and thanks for all the suggesions from the rest of you guys. lets see how this thing goes... ;) Cheers. Koliya
  13. also make sure the tire pressure is correct... can have quite an impact on fuel economy. recommended is 33 PSI front & 30 PSI rear. Cheers! PS: Its nice to know you have already checked out the basic stuff.
  14. The Toyota scheduled maintenance log I have (a pdf file from toyota site) mentions the first coolant replacement at 30,000 miles or 24 months and as GT4 says only use Toyota Long Life Red coolant
  15. When I said "emergency braking" what i meant was even at low speeds (say 20KMpH) the guy in front slamms on the breaks to avaid some braindead 3-wheeler driver (we got plenty of them here...!!!!) :( or even road construction in the dead center of the road in a hairpin bend with no prior warning signs what so ever (actual incident :ffs: ). can go on for ever, sadly these are facts of life here.
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