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  1. Happy to sell via ebay or through here 🙂 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304489736203
  2. OEM *Master key* / original Denso 1512V Lexus (or Toyota) key fob case & pre-cut blade available. Came with an IS200 i previously owned. Key profile did not fit any lock on the car - so went in the spares box in the garage & was forgotten about. Car has long since been sold - so this is surplus. No internals (-were water damaged), but case and blade are in new condition. Short-blade, with pre-cut profile that appears to have 0% wear. Ideal for someone looking to restore a vehicle to standard condition, or just avoid key-cutting/locksmith issues. Will be despatched by economy service, next working day. Feel free to make offers - it is of no use to me............
  3. Very possibly Frostyballs - everything i have tried so far has failed (-short of a tarpaulin over it), and this sounds a very logically justifiied suggestion, so i'll give it a go......thank you. The usual post-wash / hosepipe check hasn't shown anything up this time, but it hasn't rained heavily since it was last put back together - and thats is what usually seems to be the acid test. It's parked on an unfavourable gradient at the moment for rainwater run-off. Fingers crossed it will rain sufficiently in the next couple of days to be a thorough test - then i will go at it with this Tolley's stuff. If it still leaks after that (-for the sake of my sanity) i think i will offer it up to anyone on here-for free-who may want it - just to take the damn thing away. If not, it will likely become the modern-day version of Father Ted's Rover 213.......
  4. .....well, if finding the souce of leaks is that easy flash22, you are more than welcome to come here and show this IQ who is boss, because this thing has the devil in it. As i suspected - after having stripped out the interior, the water is appearing from between two spot-welded panels beneath the rear hatch opening - so it is impossible to see / trace a path back where the source of the leak is - which means i am back to trial & error / guessing. ......and although the foam seals on the rear vents might be a known issue, it's definately not the cause in this case, as once i got the rear bumper off, someone before me has clearly already been at them VERY thoroughly with the bathroom sealant.........
  5. '12 plate IQ here, 66K on the clock, still on original clutch. Been battling this 'characteristic' for nearly the past year. The vibration is caused by a failing clutch - producing an unbalanced rotating mass. Just so happens it finds a resonant frequency between 1500-2K rpm. It still has plenty of grip/bite, but it is failing. True, a *slightly* rougher running condition is to be expected compared to a traditional 4-pot from any 3-cylinder engine, (as is apparently stated in the TSB) but sufficient to shake the rear view mirror clean off the windscreen whilst changing gear? Er, no........ Replacing the clutch is a pig on these because of the cramped conditions in the engine bay, and (by the book) is a 7hr job. But it is worth it...... Leave it, and the vibrations put through the body will eventually crack the sealant between the panels, leading to the increasingly popular 'water in the boot' IQ leak problem, and the permament 'wet dog' stench. My weekends are now being wasted, spent playing contortionist stripping out the health-risk interior trying to find an untraceable hairline sealant crack between two panels i probably will never be able to reach. Just get the clutch replaced. The price of clutch replacements are not going up at the same rate as fuel. Don't worry, you won't be alone. I bitterly, BITTERLY wish i had............
  6. .....damn......... Ok, thank you for the heads-up.......
  7. Hello all, I'm hoping someone out there may have stumbled across this before me......... I have an 1L IQ2 in front of me. 62 plate, 67K on the clock. FTSH to 65K. Good-very good overall condition. Fuel economy is as per manual, no incriminating fluid loss/consumption/abuse, passes MOTs with no advisories, no ill-noises. No complaints really, except............ .......it has an inexplicable engine vibration issue going on. Only evident from ~1800 - 2100 rpm, any gear, any speed, any ambient outside temperature and gets significantly worse when under load - sufficient to shake the rear view mirror and wing mirror lenses loose........... Can be felt through the drivers seat. Things that have been checked/changed so far to try and diagnose/care for it: - New engine oil and filter (0w-20, toyota OEM filter), - Replacement standard air filter - Correctly gapped spark plugs, (-all have a healthy tan colour to them) - No error codes, Toyota sepcific or otherwise - New battery (correctly spec'd) .....and still she struggles. This appears to be a problem that isn't going away, but isn't getting worse either. Fuel quality seems to make no difference. Anyone else come across this, or similar, and found a solution?
  8. From my own experience, i can highly recommend the Council MOT station in hedge end ( - you will be pleased to hear is just around the corner from Toyota dealership!). For Joe public however, they only do MOT's - no servicing or repair work as far as i know - so you will need to find a garage somewhere. As i have done all my own servicing, i don't really have anything to offer on that front........
  9. Hmmm...... There is good reason why you have 'Guru' status on here Lee, isn't there...........thank you! Unfortunately, removing the alarm ecu doesn't seem to have made a blind bit of difference to my alarm problem, but it is good to be able to exclude that as a cause. If it is any help - this guy and me share all the same symptoms - http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/141408-tvss-iv-d-alarm-on-2001-celica-190-wont-disarm/ - only differences being my alarm is a TVSS IV-S, (not TVSS and i IV-D) and mine is a 140. ......open to any and all suggestions at the mo..............
  10. Exactly the same symptoms here. I'm stumped too. Did you ever find a solution???
  11. Does anyone know what this LED represents? Sometimes it flashes, sometimes it stays on permanently, sometimes it is off permanently off. It doesn't seem to make any difference whether the key is in the ignition or not............ It seems to have something to do with the alarm. It is on permanently now. Only the buttons on the key seem to make it go off. And the key buttons now don't work. I have to open/lock the car with the key now - so every time i open the door, the alarm goes off. Which makes my neighbours hate me. Any and all help gladly welcomed.............
  12. Sorry - forgot to say - Car - every bit of it - including the oil in the engine - is all OEM standard.
  13. ah damn it. I knew it'd be in the tank............. I can't say i know of it having bad fuel/been left standing, but i also don't know how it was treated before i had it, so........... To be honest, i've changed/checked so many parts i've lost count/track (hence title). In response to your list above though: Coil packs: - all in tolerance. Spark plugs:- changed@service (4K miles ago) with handbook recommended Denso plugs - torqued correctly. MAF (& IAT sensor): electrically within tolerance. Cleaned with isopropanol spray for good measure. Vacuum Leak - checked all (visible) pipework for damaged/correct connections. Pipework seems good. Still have incriminating hiss from intake manifold. IAC: stripped down, cleaned out (isopropanol spray) & new gasket Throttle body & plate: cleaned front& back, inside & out. Oil control Valve: Taken out and flushed out (isopropanol spray). Minimal cloging on strainer. - No improvement. I addition i have since checked the TPS, Fuel trims, and each fuel injector. TPS: Very close to acceptable tolerance, but just in. Injectors: Readings between 14-17 ohms. Checked with a toyota technician. Says they are low (expects around 20 ohms) but deemed acceptable. Reading around, lower resistances should produce 'safe' over fuelling, as the pintle puts up less electromechanical resistance - so is open for a slightly longer period per operation....apparently??? Short -Term fuel trim (@idle): fluctuates between -9% & +8%. Long-Term fuel trim (@idle): holds around -3% Wierdly the OBD2 tool says throttle position is at 11% at idle. Is this right??? Oh, and been round and cleaned & remounted each earthing point. No noticeable change :( ...........
  14. I had disregarded fuel filter, as once the engine is in gear and running (when it would be consuming more fuel) there is no evidence of anything ill. Am i right in thinking the fuel filter for the 1zzfe celica is within the fuel tank???
  15. Inlet, throttle body & IACV gaskets all changed 6 months ago. All mating surfaces were RTV sealant'd too...as a belt&braces effort. Pre & post-cat sensors removed, cleaned, checked, and replaced. No error codes. Inlet manifold removed & examined in january. No *visible* evidence of cracks/fractures/splits anywhere. Looks to be a good, solid manifold. Symptoms remain. I'd like to accurately diagnose & confirm before i start disassembling/shelling out for spare parts again - too much potential for stuff to go wrong in the process. Also, not enough skin left on the knuckles, and not enough in the bank account to fund replacing loads of parts (sadly). Is there a recognised technique for testing the <intake> manifold whilst still on the car?
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