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About ThePermanentProject

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  1. From my own experience, i can highly recommend the Council MOT station in hedge end ( - you will be pleased to hear is just around the corner from Toyota dealership!). For Joe public however, they only do MOT's - no servicing or repair work as far as i know - so you will need to find a garage somewhere. As i have done all my own servicing, i don't really have anything to offer on that front........
  2. Hmmm...... There is good reason why you have 'Guru' status on here Lee, isn't there...........thank you! Unfortunately, removing the alarm ecu doesn't seem to have made a blind bit of difference to my alarm problem, but it is good to be able to exclude that as a cause. If it is any help - this guy and me share all the same symptoms - http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/141408-tvss-iv-d-alarm-on-2001-celica-190-wont-disarm/ - only differences being my alarm is a TVSS IV-S, (not TVSS and i IV-D) and mine is a 140. ......open to any and all suggestions at the mo..............
  3. Exactly the same symptoms here. I'm stumped too. Did you ever find a solution???
  4. Does anyone know what this LED represents? Sometimes it flashes, sometimes it stays on permanently, sometimes it is off permanently off. It doesn't seem to make any difference whether the key is in the ignition or not............ It seems to have something to do with the alarm. It is on permanently now. Only the buttons on the key seem to make it go off. And the key buttons now don't work. I have to open/lock the car with the key now - so every time i open the door, the alarm goes off. Which makes my neighbours hate me. Any and all help gladly welcomed.............
  5. Sorry - forgot to say - Car - every bit of it - including the oil in the engine - is all OEM standard.
  6. ah damn it. I knew it'd be in the tank............. I can't say i know of it having bad fuel/been left standing, but i also don't know how it was treated before i had it, so........... To be honest, i've changed/checked so many parts i've lost count/track (hence title). In response to your list above though: Coil packs: - all in tolerance. Spark plugs:- changed@service (4K miles ago) with handbook recommended Denso plugs - torqued correctly. MAF (& IAT sensor): electrically within tolerance. Cleaned with isopropanol spray for good measure. Vacuum Leak - checked all (visible) pipework for
  7. I had disregarded fuel filter, as once the engine is in gear and running (when it would be consuming more fuel) there is no evidence of anything ill. Am i right in thinking the fuel filter for the 1zzfe celica is within the fuel tank???
  8. Inlet, throttle body & IACV gaskets all changed 6 months ago. All mating surfaces were RTV sealant'd too...as a belt&braces effort. Pre & post-cat sensors removed, cleaned, checked, and replaced. No error codes. Inlet manifold removed & examined in january. No *visible* evidence of cracks/fractures/splits anywhere. Looks to be a good, solid manifold. Symptoms remain. I'd like to accurately diagnose & confirm before i start disassembling/shelling out for spare parts again - too much potential for stuff to go wrong in the process. Also, not enough skin left on the knuckles,
  9. I have a 140 Celica that just WILL NOT idle properly. Yo-yo-ing short term fuel trim,rough vibration through steering wheel/seat/floorpan,rich smell of fuel form exhaust,Rocking/vibrating engine block,vibration in exhaust pipeconstantly changing exhaust note/tone at idleincriminating hiss around intake manifold,Severe hiss/suction noise as throttle is openedtiming chain rattleAbsolute throttle position at 11% ( - at idle)No CEL.good fuel economy (~ 38 mpg)hesitancy for first second under acceleration.I have been trying on & off for the past 12 months to solve it, with no success. Tried al
  10. Hi, Does anyone know the tolerance, either in degree's or percentage, of a bog-standard 82 degree toyota thermostat? Seems my engine is willing to run up to 89/90 degrees at idle before the fans kick in............ Is this healthy?
  11. Hi all, I am in need of your help................... I have (finally) managed to get scantool.net software up and running, and have got some data from my ecu, but as i don't know what 'correct' values are, the data i am getting is a bit meaningless........(absolute throttle position / engine coolant temp / short/long-term fuel trim values)........etc......... Is there anyone in the southampton area with a healthy 140 celica that would be willing to let me use their car as a benchmark for my own? A fair bit cheeky i know, but not sure where else to look/ask for accurate information on ecu data
  12. Had the same 'issue' with mine for the first week or so i had my Gen 7.................. Turned out it was me not balancing the clutch/throttle properly for this car (not used to it). Started to stick another....300?, 400? rpm across the clutch when pulling away in first gear.........problem instantly disappeared...........
  13. Best guess here is something in the new filler neck assembly is allowing a vacuum to develop, preventing the fuel pump from pumping fuel to the engine........mimicking the effect of the tank being empty. Study the vacuum system of the car and compare it to what your garage have done................
  14. You definately can 'hear' a happy engine. You can feel it too. I've put a tank of 99 in my 140 tonight. 3 miles in and i can already hear/feel a noticeable improvement. Owners club - please correct me if/where i am wrong here: Age of an OBDII scan tool should not become a problem - as the OBDII system is standardised. If it is a manufacturer specific fault code, then you would need to work with something more specific to that manufacturer for the additional detail - regardless of age. As the codes you have (had) were standard OBDII codes, age of the scan tool should not become an issue. If you
  15. Hi Christina, What does your owners handbook say regards minimum RON octane (95? 99? etc...) rating of fuels that are permitted for your VVTLi engine? That is what should dictate what it should run happily on - not the subjective opinion of one, or even a few mechanics, or the rest of the internet. It should run on the lowest RON that the handbook states without fault. If it can't, then there is an underlying fault elsewhere that needs dealing with. I know the VVTLi engine is the more highly-strung type of engine to go in these cars, and if your's had been highly modified, then i could underst
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