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Ten Ninety

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Everything posted by Ten Ninety

  1. I think Tony's right - the heat pump doesn't warm the car as well as the ICE does anyway so it makes sense that below a certain external temp its warming capability would reach nothing. Regarding forcing the ICE to start, just put it in HV mode instead of EV mode. As long as the heating isn't set to OFF, it will fire up the ICE to power the heater.
  2. The PHV allegedly already has more sound deadening than the Prius ordinaire. I do remember on test drives thinking it was relatively quiet compared to a Gen1 Auris or Gen3 Prius. I'm therefore not sure adding dynamat or similar will do a lot - I think a fair amount of road noise comes through the suspension components and, I guess, the glass, neither of which can be remedied easily. However, my only practical experience with the PHV has been stuffing the entire boot full of blankets (which made chuff-all difference) so I can't contribute any useful advice really. As reported elsewhere, my Dunlops were super quiet for a while but that's slipped away as they've worn. I'm running them at 45psi to try to claim back some of the appalling hit on economy. Upping the pressure made zero difference to the noise level but hasn't done a lot for the economy either. I would be interested to see how the Primacies affect your electric range even if you can't measure mpg. I lost 5-6 miles off my summer range switching to the Dunlops and in winter that's now more like 8-9. Even accounting for battery ageing over 12 months, the difference between this year's montly averages and last year's 'like for like' is shocking!
  3. I suspect the traction control was never recalibrated for the PHV in EV mode with its very different torque characteristics. I've done full-on smoking burnouts pulling out into traffic when I had the Bridgestones on. The Dunlops have fixed this, and after a few experiments there is no doubt they provide significantly better grip in dry and wet conditions if 'pressing on'. However, grip is about the only thing the Dunlops are good at. Disappointingly, the unnatural quietness I reported previously has now disappeared after a couple of thousand miles. That's not just my brain recalibrating - there is now a big gap again between road noise in the PHV and the Lexus, which had all but disappeared when the Dunlops were first fitted. The fuel economy hit remains dire. I'm down at least 5-6 miles on summer EV range and still struggling to see 150mpg on journeys where the Bridgestones would consistently deliver 200+. To put that in context, for my particular weekly drive the Dunlops are currently costing me between 1-2 pence per mile more to run. That relative increase is likely to get worse over winter. At 13000+ miles per year, I really should sack them off and go back to the Bridgestones as I'd recover that additional cost well within the life of the tyres.
  4. Just resurrecting this to correct my post above. Apologies, I was wrong - the Gen2 PHV does not charge the 12v even when plugged in to the wall. Clearly I didn't leave the car as long as I'd thought before, or maybe the battery's just a bit older now, but having left the thing plugged in to the wall but unused for several weeks, the 12v was then unable to start the car. It had enough power to open the doors and do all the usual clunking stuff but couldn't get to Ready. I'm sure this wasn't helped by the utterly stupid unturnoffable auto headlights blazing on as soon as I pushed Start, because the garage is just dim enough for their equally stupid hair-trigger sensor even in daylight. I get that the traction battery circuit is a totally different thing from the 12v but it's disappointing that it was beyond the wit of Toyota's engineers to siphon off a little of the juice going in from the mains to top up the 12v. Especially as it appears the Gen1 PHV did exactly this.
  5. As usual, this thread proves that nobody (including me) can be trusted to offer any advice on tyres, as every car will respond differently to a particular tyre and we as drivers have our own particular preferences and priorities. I have recently switched from the OEM Bridgestone Ecopias to the Dunlop Sport Bluresponse on the PHV. I don't think I've ever changed tyres and experienced such a noticeable improvement in road noise. After 1000 miles they're scrubbed in and not quite as amazing, but they remain particularly good on poor surfaces. Very impressive, and it's narrowed the noise gap considerably between the Prius and the GS. Unfortunately, the Dunlops have had a disappointingly negative impact on fuel economy. I was expecting some kind of hit here but it's worse than I thought it might be - I've actually lost around 5 miles of summer electric range and my warm-day commute average (over ~65 miles) has dropped from achieving a consistent 199+mpg to being lucky to exceed 150mpg. Obviously at these rarefied heights the impact of all factors is magnified compared to a Prius ordinaire doing 70-80mpg, but even at that level I imagine it would be noticeable to anyone paying real attention i.e. sad old gits like me who enjoy squeezing every last mile out of the gallon or kilowatt hour. I'm really happy with the noise improvement, but knowing that I'll now never be able to beat my personal best for efficiency is taking the shine off things somewhat. As for 'handling', I'm sure the Dunlops are considerably better in this respect. However, I rather liked the Bridgestones' total inability to grip in a straight line or around corners. It reminded me that if I was troubling the tyres, I was probably driving the car wrong. 😄
  6. I'm not quite sure what it is you're looking for, when you refer to 'cable charge'. If you want the percentage of time spent running on electric power then you've found it - that's the EV driving ratio. However, that's not the same as 'cable charge' because it also includes all the time spent in 'milkfloat mode' when running in HV. I can start with an empty battery and still hit 60+% EV driving ratio because HV mode is so brilliant with regen. If you're looking for the total time spent charging, or miles driven in pure EV mode, I'm not sure either are recorded by the car in a way that allows them to be displayed, or at least I haven't found them yet. 🙂 Edited to say, unless the Eco Diary bit records EV miles separately like it shows mpkwh separately? I don't poke around in the EV bit of that much, so maybe it has the details there.
  7. I think it's in the meter customisation bit of the MFD - 'History Reset' and 'Electricity Consumption Reset' are the ones you want, if I'm understanding you correctly. There's a beautiful Japanese randomness that defines which settings are done on the infotainment, and which are done on the MFD. It's the same randomness that was applied to the literal scattering of buttons across the dashboard in my Lexus!
  8. Sorry, did you say cabin heating at 18C? I don't even go that low to cool down in the summer! 😁
  9. Conditions are everything. 15-20mpg can go just from weather. Cold temperatures - anything below about 5 degrees really starts to impact. Wet roads - the extra drag is considerable and wrecks coasting. Easily 5-10mpg gone right there. Wind - despite the slippery shape of the car, a headwind can reduce coasting time as well. Low tyre pressures are a factor, but not as much as conditions. Engine oil type being too thick will drop mpg too. There could also be a problem with the car, obviously, but that's not the first place to look. Anyway, it could be worse. Last week my average daily mpg was approximately 105mpg lower than last year's summer high...😁
  10. I don't know if it's got a 360 cam, but it really doesn't need one and I wouldn't pay extra to get it. The parking sensors and MFD proximity display, along with the rear cam (as long as you've cleaned it that day), offer everything you need for precision parking.
  11. As Alan says, it does warm up quickly with the seat heater. However, I do find it annoying that the pre-heat function doesn't operate the seat heater even if it is left switched on, so whilst the cabin is warmed the seat is still chilly.
  12. Annoyingly, there is just one mpKwh record on the MFD rather than the mutiple trip meters for mpg, and it only resets when you manually change it. It's therefore not as easy to track as mpg. It's probably also as questionable as the mpg readings in terms of accuracy. I did a few experiments manually resetting before individual journeys. On a nice dry summer morning with no AC and perfect driving conditions, I averaged just over 6 mpKwh which took me nearly 38 miles on electric-only power. That doesn't add up - if I was really doing 6+ then I should have travelled well over 40 miles on the battery capacity which offers somewhere around 7kWh actually usable. I presume the mpkWh reading is just as optimistic as the estimated electric range indicator which started at 42 miles that day. Most summer days I'd get 32-34 miles off the same indicated 42 max. I haven't reset since the beginning of last year and my average is showing 4.3 mpkWh for the year. I think I'm currently down in the 2s for most journeys because of the persistent cold (0-2 degrees) and dragging wet roads. I'm lucky if I get 16-17 miles on electric and that's driving on the same journey, in the same economical manner, as I was when I achieved 38 miles. The laughable range estimator does drop in the winter but remains optimistic by about 10 miles each charge. Pre-heating when plugged in makes no appreciable difference to electric range, probably because I'm on a 3-pin charger so the heater may be draining the battery faster than it is being charged.
  13. No, I think it's Toyota Europe's strategy to maximise profit by giving us as little as they think they can get away with. The US Prius models are always better specified than what we get over here, including full electric adjustment for the seats and a completely different ICE setup with a big screen and mobile app linking. They probably even get the full un-crippled adaptive headlights, too! Still, it's probably the right strategy, given that it didn't stop any of us on here from buying one.
  14. From what I read on Priuschat, I believe the Gen2 PHV charges the 12v after it's finished charging the traction battery and is still plugged in, whereas the Gen1 charges both at the same time. Earlier this year I left my car for an extended period of time without using it (but still plugged in) and had no issues with the 12v so I'm pretty sure it charges it.
  15. Nice read, well written. Thanks for posting.👍
  16. Yeah, seconded and thirded here. Utterly worthless. However, I think the audible speed alerts the OP was after are based on the navigation map's records of speed limits not RSA. They're hardly the last word in accuracy either, though.
  17. The audible speed limit warning should be under the 'Map' option in settings. I can't remember where the speed camera audible warning is hidden away - possibly in the same place. I know it used to come on really loud and scare the bejesus out of me until I eventually tracked it down and killed it.
  18. I don't suppose the headlights work any better either?
  19. If you've got another green one, a respray would be a good start... 😁
  20. Yes Alan, it's normal. Completely stupid, but normal, and confirmed by Toyota UK as per this thread: The good news is that there is a very effective solution, which is to adjust the dipped beams up so that they aren't pointing at the floor like the factory sets them. Phil T shows how here: This provides enough dipped beam light to drive safely up to 40mph, when the AHBs will kick in. However, I actually don't bother with them now because although the shuttering is 95% effective for oncoming traffic it doesn't seem to be so good when there's traffic in front going in the same direction. It also does some unexpected switching off at certain points on my commute when particular combinations of lamp-posts and signs confuse its algorithm.
  21. Interesting. Perhaps that's a 2019 update. Mine never leaves Eco mode, but still fires up the ICE on front demist.
  22. My best guess is that the Toyota engineers just copied and pasted all the systems control code from the Prius ordinaire and forgot to delete the line "IF FRONT DEMIST = ON THEN START ENGINE". It is completely unnecessary in the PHV, and rather annoying. But then, these are the same engineers who programmed the pre-heat function to seemingly not use the dehumidifying function of the aircon, meaning the car is nice and warm when you get in but visibility through the totally fogged windows is zero.
  23. The seats are really not great. I have to have the driver's seat far more vertical than I'd like, or else I get terrible pain right at the base of my spine after extended periods of use. They should be much softer, more adjustable and electric! What colour have you gone for? Are you joining Geoff and the green gang?
  24. Apologies, that probably wasn't the most welcoming response to a new member! Using charge mode whilst stationary is possible, but not a good idea for the reasons stated above. Being stationary with the ICE running is the worst possible scenario for mpg, and you will never get back those losses from the time gained in EV mode. It is also likely to take a very long time to get any meaningful accumulation of charge in the battery whilst not moving, given that it it takes anywhere between 1-2 miles of driving at speed to gain 1 mile of EV range in Charge mode. I appreciate your reason for asking - driving in EV mode is certainly more enjoyable, but I'd suggest there are some sacrifices not worth making. For me, Charge mode is one of them. As per the original posts, Charge mode might possibly have some utility when charging down the motorway at 80+mph but in all other scenarios it's going to cost you money in lost mpg. Using it whilst the car isn't moving just multiplies those losses.
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