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Paul Gailey

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    T180, black estate. Biege leather. Fixed the poor xenon lights for €5 & 4 hours of DIY
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  1. i had the same issue when i purchased my avensis second hand. turned out it was not the bulbs at fault and any sales attempt by a dealer to sell me higher power bulbs was a false economy. the true problem was the metalilc lining of the housing of the headlights which had deteriorated and burnt off inside the housing. thats because plastic and metal do not bond too well - in a similar way the gear knob looses the metal coating over time, the interior of the headlamp is a defect. it's a common fault and yet whilst tedious to DIY fix, it can be done for less than the price of aluminium adhesive tape, cut into little triangles and stuck on the interior of the housing to act as a perfectly adequate reflective surface - or you can pay north of €400 for each part plus labour to install new ones. You will need patience to safely remove each headlamp, without fully detaching the font bumper, and a large home oven to carefully low temperature roast the unit to soften the adhesive clamshell that keep it all together, prize it apart, access the interior, stick down your tape, and reassemble the whole thing. There's youtube videos about it. Saved me a fortune and has never failed since a good few years now.
  2. forgive the newbie tool query....my specific cup wrench tool arrived, but my socket set is metric and the 24mm socket is too small and the 27mm slightly to loose to attach securely to the cup. none of the square inserts fit the inner part of the 3/8 cup either. are there common 3/8 to metric adaptor sockets for this or do i need to get a whole new devoted closed spanner for this?
  3. ok, so i got an oil filter and it has that tube to drain the oil within it. today i removed the underside vehcile plastic to inspect the filter and found this (photo attached - highlighted in green) so whomever last serviced this, they damaged that bolt cap that drains the oil from the filter. so it's unclear if i will be able to safely undo that bolt cap, i gave it a little effort and those stripped bolt threads do not augur well so my question is, is that cap available as a spare part alone in the event i do ultimately remove it once i take the whole filter off? in terms of the filter itself, my rubber strap wrench was unable to move it and rubber/wooden mallet persuasion and some teflon spray on the seal did not help either.....so i am going to order the spanner cup wrench tool.
  4. only from what ive seen off youtube. I guess i will need that tube kit to drain it then or it that optional?
  5. @Stivino do you think i can access/remove it with a standard rubber strap wrench?
  6. official dealers charge an inordinate amount for them i have found and often forget to replace them or charge for them like they do for windscreen topup liquid (even though you can drive into a service with the level at 100%). hasty removal of them risks damaging them also. you can get a bag of them inexpensively on aliexpress. be sure to turn them 90 degrees before removal so the centre part pops free.
  7. That looks top notch. Mine was alas somewhat crude but effective and less than a higher pressure wash it was an electrostatic bathing that sonically broke down the dirt during a long few sessions. The dpf was cut open and rewelded for best access. It was local to me and the service that all the garages used.
  8. I think about €50 for electrostatic bath clean, about €220ish for removal/refit (may have to check exact figs), but I recall it was a lot less than half the dealer quoted price of a refurb one
  9. hi all, am looking for recommendations of exact size of oil filter cup spanner. i have a 2.2D 177CV T25 estate and fancy having a go myself at the oil filter change - but want the right tool so not to cause damage to the oil filter housing. some of these tools appear to be 64mm or 64.5mm or 65mm and are listed for Camry, RAV4, Highlander, Sienna, Tundra and not explicitly for the Avensis. Anyone have confidence that a 64.5mm 14 flute cup would be suitable? fyi, there is another old thread about this although it may be for a different model
  10. well, since my my last update, pandemic happened and car had a lot less use, but the clean and refit went really well.
  11. I was quoted hundreds of Euro at Toyota Spain to fix this for new ones or expensive bulbs. The metallic lining paint behind the headlamps fails and buying high powered bulbs is an utter red herring and ineffective. Toyota won't admit this. Here's how you fix it: Get yourself some metallic adhesive tape as used for heating ducts. You will be slicing it into traingular pieces and carefully sticking them onto the inside of a cleaned, removed headlamp. The tricky part is safely removing the unit and carefully placing it in your home oven so to soften the factory adhesive sufficiently for you to prize it apart. There's videos of it out there and ones how to partially(!) loosen the bumper in order to remove/reattach the light unit(s). It might cost you €3 in total and a few hours. Mine has lasted 6 years+ so far.
  12. Yes thanks. I saw it on the ramp as such. Much bigger job than I first thought to be fair. I've had the thing ultrasonically cleaned now - "it was filthy" - and an awaiting fixture again. The pipes connecting it I've discovered have since been redesigned widened by Toyota in newer models but my mechanic says those wider pipes are unavailable now. Seems like a Toyota admission of substandard design that doesn't help performance of the unit. I'll report back here once car is back in road.
  13. How long does a mechanic take to remove a DPF from a DFD2.2 2007 177hp estate Avensis for cleaning? I'm being told 6 man hours and it seems instinctively excessive for something under the car just for it's temporary removal so I can take it for an ultrasonic deep clean where it is cut in half then rewelded afterwards.
  14. Paul Gailey


    i can only talk from experience... my T180 (2.2DFD 177) 2006, 180K just had the dreaded p2002 particulate bank trapped code confirmed, bad catalytic convertor confirmed by the dealer. I had no fuel consumption warning of this, no eggy exhaust odours, or uneven acceleration of the problem. Am being quoted about €2200 for a replaced new cat. Here's what I struggle to understand, the aftermarket part sites quote between €300-600 for a new part, eg a Walker CAT. How can Toyota charge so much more on the item? is it really that different, that much work to put it on? my other local alternative is an ultrasound bath deep clean of the part cut in half, then welded together again for about €150 - that excludes disassembly/reassembly to the car by an independent mechanic. I'm reckoning the whole thing could cost me another €120, call it €300 all in. What would you do? repair or get a "cheap" new aftermarket one?
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