paulcap

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About paulcap

  • Rank
    New Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Paul
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Avensis 1.8 Auto
  • Toyota Year
    2002
  • Location
    Greater London
  • Interests
    Classic Cars
    General Automotive
    Motorsport & Racing
    Car Restoration
    Car Modification

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  1. I am trying to find out if it is possible to remove the engine from my T22 1.8 Auto without having to remove the gearbox too. The potential issue is that the engine has very little space between the timing cover and the side of the engine compartment. If it was a manual gearbox then the front of the engine would hit the engine bay side long before the gearbox shaft disengages from the clutch plate. From what I can tell there is no shaft etc. protruding from the gearbox into the engine are or vice versa. It looks like, once the bolts are removed fixing the flywheel to the torque converter, the engine can be lifted straight up without having to shift the engine to the left more than a few millimeters. Does anyone know if I am talking rubbish? Thanks in advance for any advice.
  2. It's always worth trying the very simplest thing. Manually pull the clutch pedal up and see if it changes the biting position. The pedal return spring weakens, the plunger in the master cylinder never returns to the home position and the braking circuit never gets topped up from the reservoir.
  3. I have a 2001 Avensis 1.8 1ZZ-FE with the oil burning problem (for the second time). It's probably a combination of stuck oil rings and blocked piston oil holes like last time. The engine has now done 125k miles and I need to consider whether it needs a re-bore. I can see everywhere advice like " it needs a re-bore if the cylinders are excessively worn" but nowhere, including in the service manual, does it say how much wear is acceptable. I have measured the cylinder with the most carbon on the piston and the diameter is evenly 0.06 mm more where the rings travel than where they don't. Does anyone know if this is OK? Thanks in advance Paul
  4. Hi Bogdan, The misfire started about two weeks ago but the vvti valve was damaged about 8 months ago. It is showing the error code P1656 which says the valve is not working. Top end performance is a bit low but it's still good to drive. The plugs are Denso, seem OK and have been adjusted. I'm guessing that injector problems would still be there at high and low temperatures but I think I will try and clean the airflow meter. Thank you for the suggestions. Paul
  5. Hi, Yes, I meant to say in the original post that it immediately shows all the P0300 to P0304 codes. Unfortunatley the light is always on anyway because the VVTI valve is jammed in the head and it doesn't work after my attempts to remove it. I do know what you mean about Fords I had two 105E Anglias (both running th same Cortina engine) a long while back. When I thought I bought the contaminated fuel, it was on a long trip and I bought about 40 litres when it was quite low. I had about 25 left the next day when it first went properly wrong. I pumped out about 20 before refilling it but couldn't see anything obviously wrong with what I had got out The fault came back a couple of days ago when I had filled it up the previous night just before getting home. It would be annoying to have to give up on it because it is otherwise such a great car.
  6. Hi, I have a 2001 Avensis Vermont 1.8vvti which has recently had a problem with sometimes running very rough, unable to tick over at all. The car starts and runs OK for about a minute while it is cold and the revs are high (~1600rpm). As it slows down the tickover becomes rough, gets worse and then the engine stalls. If I keep the revs up for several minutes until full warmed up it is fine in every way. The next time it started from cold it does the same again. I googled it and was convinced it was contaminated fuel. I wasn't totally sure because there had been about one minute of the same problem soon after starting off a few weeks earlier. I drained nearly all the fuel and diluted what was left by filling it up again and the problem was solved - it seemed. After about 10 days of trouble free driving, the problem came back today. Can anyone suggest what I should try next? I should mention that the car developed the sudden high fuel consumption problem about a year ago. I took the head off and removed the pistons, etc., drilled out the oil drain holes and scraped all the carbon out of the grooves, fitted new rings and big end bearings and rebuilt it. It needed replacement catalysts too. It has been running fine since then apart from a couple of minor issues that I caused but obviously all the connectors, etc. were disturbed so something could have come loose. Thanks in advanve for any suggestions. Paul
  7. Hi, Thnks for you reply. There were only gentle attempts to remove it while the head was still on the engine. All the pointless violence happened with the head removed. I am going to try again tomorrow but the head is back on now. I will report back.
  8. Hi, The title says it all. I recently rebuilt the engine on my 2002 Avensis 1.8 VVTi after the piston oil drain holes and the oil control ring groves blocked up with burnt oil. During removing the cylinder head, the manual said to undo the bolt securing the VVT oil control valve, disconnect the electrical plug and withdraw the valve. Unfortunately the valve didn't want to move. When I tugged a bit harder, the crimped fingers holding the solenoid onto the valve body let go and I was left with the body stuck in the head. The protruding end of the valve body has a deep grove so I could get a good grip on it but nothing could shift it and I did use nearly enough force to cause serious damage. After the rebuild, I was able to push the solenoid part back onto the valve body and it seems quite firm but it is obviously not working because there is no top end power and it produces a "VVT fault" code. Has anyone had this problem? Is there something else that the manual didn't mention that has to be removed before the valve will come out?
  9. Further update - The performance issue has rapidly got much worse. Hardly any acceleration at all particularly on a hot day. Starting off up a modestly steep hill and it doesn't get above 15mph until it gets over the top. It is no longer usable so I am going to try and fix it. I will try to take the cylinder head off and then the sump so I can undo the big end bolts and get the pistons out. I will report back on what I find.
  10. Update The oil consumption problem was first spotted when I noticed blue smoke. I checked the oil and there was none on the dipstick even though it had been topped up about 4 weeks before. I topped it up again which is when the smoke and smell got much worse and the catalyst error showed up. Now the new oils has been in for a few days the smoke and smell seem to have stopped and the error is no longer being produced. It's as if the new oil has disolved some of the crud away and the oil rings are doing thier job again. The only problem is thta the performance problem has not gone away, if anything it's getting worse. The car starts and drives perfectly providing I only use the very lightest of throttle. If I use any more, the engine note changes as if it's producing a lot more power but the acceleration is hardly noticable. If anything the engine note is a bit too loud and 'sporty' for the amount of throttle. There is also a faint hint of 'lumpyness' to the engine running, even on light throttle. The car has burnt out a couple of ignition coil pencils in the past and this lumpyness is a bit like a very toned down version of how it was when running on three cylenders. Is this symptom nothing to do with the oil problem or could it be caused by oil in the exhaust affeccting the Oxygen sensor for example? Thanks in advance. Paul
  11. Hi, I have a 2002 Avensis 1.8VVTi Auto which has been a great car and I would prefer to keep. Unfortunately, at 72000 miles, it has suddenly started using oil at an incredibly high rate. Pedestrians I have driven past tell me the car stinks of burnt oil and fireworks. The car drives reasonably OK on very light throttle but if I use more, it changes down and makes a lot more noise but doesn't actually accelerate much and then the emissions warning light comes on with a Catalyst reduced efficiency code. I can clear this with my OBD device and it doesn't come back if I only use light throttle. I assume lots of oil is getting in to the catalyst and contaminating it. A compression tester says there is nothing basically wrong. I can't afford to spend much money on it but I don't want to get rid of the car so I have to cosider doing the work myself. Can anybody tell me what actually causes the problem? Is it just oil rings stuck in their grooves or something worse? If it is sticky rings does any fuel additive or treatment poured in throught the plug holes stand a change of clearing the problem? Thanks Paul
  12. Welcome to the Toyota forums paulcap :)