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fixitphil last won the day on July 31 2015

fixitphil had the most liked content!

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About fixitphil

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    avensis gs hatchback
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  1. I have over a few years noticed a gradual lack of pulling power/gutless. Last mot mentioned engine seemed to be throttling back???. I have noticed that the vacuum actuator for the inlet manifold run butterfly control does not pull in when vacuum is present at start/normal revs <4,200 rpm. Also vacuum was being lost less than -20 inHg say -17inHg. I tested the vacuum supply to the vacuum actuator alone with the actuator out of vacuum cicuit. I read -21 inHg excellent, no losses so far. I then tested the actuator at the input pipe, no vacuum could be held. Device bust. As I could not source a new one without spending a lota dosh, I decided to try and fix the old one. This took a few hours but is so far running OK. I have attached images of the method and materials I used. I made the four clamping clips from 2mm thick mild steel measuring 20mm x 15mm. I put a slot in one of the long sides of the piece to create a a strong push on clip. I used 4 hacksaw blades side by side to create a slot approx 2mm wide and 7mm deep to create the slot. When pushed on to the assembly flanges to clamp together,if not tight enough I used a small hammer to peen the metal around the slot to reduce the slot width. I have entitled the images to help clarify process. To fix the split I used the part of a nitrile rubber glove as a support for the general application of the black silicon rubber gasket solution(LOCTITE 5910). I did not glue the mended diaphragm in to the chamber, I just used the compressive fit when the clips are forced on. After testing the device I araldited the areas around the clips(4) to prevent movement. All as good as gold. Best of luck to anyone who is as tight as me. fixitphil
  2. Today had a pleasent result. For the last year or more car has not been as smooth as when first bought 18 short years ago. Poor start up/ warm up tick over and when warmed up normal tickover oscillating between 700rpm to shudder low revs to pickup again. Yesterday engine warning light on so had to bite the bullet and sort the fault. Long story short, the original vacuum link from MAP sensor to manifold (yes MAP sensor) looked fine till I disconnnected it and found extreme fatigue failure cracks and also slack fit to the device spiggot. New pipe ty wrapped on superb smooth running motor. I had couple of weeks before checked and cleaned most of the snap on electrical connectors just in case corrosion effects. Non present. Cost of fix absolutely nowt, the perfect price. I am now content to drive through heavy traffic again. Best of luck one happy Fixitphil
  3. Just a cheeky monkey

  4. Hello my dear Avensis misers, Yes I am proud to be a person who will not waste money. At the grand old mileage of 106008 I decided to change my pollen/cabin filters. Using Crosland filter part no: 507 82 0048 from Eurocarparts (about £9) I pulled back drivers side (right hand drive) carpets to allow access to filter access panel and unclipped the same. Removed old slightly soiled filters (totally fouled) and compared old with new. The bottom one (first out of the trap) was as the new one, the second needed to have a web removed (possibly present for testing at manufacture) and the withdrawal tab cutting off so as to enable filter to be rotated 180 degrees in the horizontal plane, it then fitted fine and could be slid up followed by it's mate. Cover clip refitted. Excellent. P.s good weather warm and sunny, no rain as a kneeling job. Best regards and confident motoring FixitPhil
  5. Awhile ago whilst trying to fault find engine running condition, I cut into the signal output lead from the MAP sensor to try to up the output voltage. Why don't ask, it was a stupid idea. I joined the wire again with (very cheap)crimp connectors. All was well for quiet awhile. Just lately whilst pulling away / little acceleration applied engine would gently surge and jump as if dabbing accelerator pedal. On old cars with a worn mechanical distributor (advance/!Removed! centrifugal weights) this was common. I thought about a poor signal condition from MAP sensor could account for this. This day I soldered all the crimp connector and wire junction site. A totally redeemed smooth running was the result. Lesson!!! if using crimp connectors on a signal wire always buy good quality and the correct crimp tool (not pliers). I believe oxidation was the problem. Also had the occasion to snap the plastic engine oil dipstick (DIPSTICK am I) the plastic is drying out with time and therefore less resilient to rough handling. So I have about two inches of the stick in my hand and way down the tube the other twelve inches approx. I got it out easily with a bicycle wheel spoke with the nut removed, This allowed me to slide spoke, whilst rotating clockwise (the spoke that is) down past the lost twelve inches, pulled out and out shot the lost piece. As a confirmed tightubik I was able to fit a tight fitting tube splint over the break with the addition of a little ARALDITE. Superb. I was sweating for a few minutes though. I also have replaced the ignition switch starter module, £30 quid s/h from Japarts. Also fitted a hot button direct from battery via 40 amp fuse to starter solenoid just in case this or relay happens to fail in future. Fitted press to make button in the fuse compartment in engine bay. Good car though. I would not dare to drive one of these drive by wire or wireless high tech vehicles. Enough of me ranting on. Ta Ta
  6. Hi all, Yesterday offside mirror meets oncoming offside mirror, Bang, Result, Mirror housing slammed back releasing mirror glass still affixed to backing plate complete with the two yellow nylon activator stalks. Thank not the Murphey's law rule, this assembly hung loose on mirror heating supply wires. No damage (tough quality plastics) to thank. Thanks to dear wife's advice, read Haynes manual on how to release mirror glass from carrier plate (black plastic complete with swinging yellow stalks) easy. I applied grease to all the push to fit regions between glass carrier plate and fixed motor housing unit. Whilst clamping closed one then the other yellow stalks and pushing through the actuator seal rubbers pushing them inside out (no choice) using long nosed pliers, pushed till felt solid click, (much sweat was observed) . Remember the delicate mirror glass is not fastened yet. Turn ignition on all works O.K. With care reaffixed mirror glass to it's carrier. Job done. If I had been a surgeon I would have used lock on forceps to clamp the yellow stalks. N.B. Don't disconnect the stalks from the carrier to try to push through rubber seals as seems the best way but NOT, as trying to clip ball sockets back together was impossible when I tried that way first. Plus the joint must articulate but not rotate due to a plastic process (pin) on the ball moulding. Not sweating now. P.S. adrenalin is good to keep alziemers ???? at bay. Well could be. Best Regards fixitphil
  7. Hello folks, Long time no post, but have to share my puzzling journey. When operating starter key, the starter tried to kick in then out. Operate key again, starter works. This problem became more regular. Us older folks would suspect battery condition or connections. Checked all this and because my Toyota battery was a few years old, changed it to a heavy duty Lion battery (latest Calcium/Calcium) technology. The same starting fault occurred???. Intermittent. Took starter off car and with it safe in a vice stuck my old Toyota battery across it, bang bang bang, Many times, no fault. Refitted starter motor. Checked the starter relay that drives the starter solenoid, seemed OK, (it was). These cars for some reason DOG only knows, have done away with the manual button at the rear of the solenoid, So I fitted an old push to make circuit push-button (via a 40 amp fuse) between the battery live terminal and the solenoid input cable via an heavy duty insulation displacement connector (think they are called break out connectors). This enabled me to, with car out of gear, to start the engine (with ignition switch on only) from the engine compartment, bypassing the ignition switch and the slave relay wiring. Car starts fine. The first fault had been the ignition switch module, which I replaced. Car was OK for a time. Car developed starter problems again when battery(Lion unit) had been left for a few days without being run. Battery had no power. Charged it as car is in a garage, no problem. Car would start OK again, But if left for a few days without being run, battery would be gutless. Off load battery measured 12.6 volts. I have had this battery go down to 6volts.???? Yesterday I started car from engine bay and saw the voltage drop to 9 volts. I presume a mechanical fault in the battery manufacture process. I put my old Toyota battery back on and all is well. Therefore first problem had been the starter switch module. Second problem a faulty battery which I shall be returning to supplier as it had a 3years guarantee, and I have only had it 18 months on very light duty. Tested the Lion battery by fully charging for 24 hours putting a light load of 3,25 amps ( a 4 ohm 200 watt resistor) and watched as within half a minute the battery voltage dropped from 12.6volts to 9.9volts. Hope this will save some of you fixit guys all my hassle. All the best fixitphil
  8. A most excellent breakdown of my gradually more occurring problem when starting. I found more likely to happen when car interior hot due to a summers day effect. I have an Avensis 1.8 petrol hatchback 1998 with 99300 miles on clock. I bought my switch (refurbished!!) from JAPARTS online for £37 including p&p. No numbers on it but works fine. My only problem was trying to dismount the 2pin black connector from the switch body. I left this socket mounted whilst removing the switch body, I could then see more clearly how to release the lock on the black socket body.(no damage occurring) to socket. I found on the old switch it was quite easy to disassemble. The device is very well made and tooled. I believe the only fault was the little springs that hold the contacts in touch with the two sliprings were getting tired. I stretched them all and reassembled switch. Believe I have a fully working unit again. Hindsight is wonderful. I measured the contact resistance on attaining start position and have consistently less than 0.4 ohm. A good check to test if the switch is weak is to disconnect the starter solenoid trigger connector at back of engine, Remove the 5amp start fuse in the fuse box by your right knee on right-hand drive car, check voltage output at top skt of the fuse seat and observe the voltage. Mine was varying from 0volts up to 12.6volts. (fully charged battery) by multiple operations of key. I had already had the starter motor unit off and bench checked with old battery (excellent operation) also had checked slave relay in fuse box in engine compartment.(excellent operation). I have gone belt and braces and fitted a fused normally open button which fitted in the engine compartment fusebox, between live of battery and line tap to black wire underneath the slave relay, (just in case) All starter motor solenoids should still have the good old manual button for the odd emergency. P.S. your photographic skill is a lot better than my shaky efforts. Best regards FixitPfil
  9. Hi Ant, Saw your problem! Did you ever get it sorted? I have just posted a possibly similar fault. Best regards FixitPhil (if I can find out what's wrong)
  10. Hi there, Due to car lacking power checked lean burn sensor (4 wire zirconium type) . As engine warmed up had sensor output regular cross- over function ok, When hot engine went into "open loop" mode, i.e. 0.45v steady engine running but lost the closed loop as is required. Car has done 95000 miles so replaced with a new sensor, same result as above, seems to cross-over ok till warm then defaults to open loop mode. No engine fault light on untill I disconnect the sensor and run engine. On reconnecting sensor, fault light went out. Engine still in open loop mode. I seem to have no fault codes stored, so I am guessing. In the meantime I shall replace the old sensor so as not to carbon up the new one. Any ideas.
  11. Can help, I too do very little little mileage and have rigged up a feed supply connection to the battery terminal cable connectors. I run 12v supply from a spare battery next to car, used old mobile phone charger cable and jack for quick connection, little current drain so light weight cable ok. You can then disconnect the main in car battery and charge with charger cables in situ. I only disconnect the +ve lead. Ensure polarity is correct which is why I used a jack system, once all is checked connection wise you don't have to keep confirming right polarity. Have used this system for last few years particularly in winter. Best of luck Phil
  12. Good morning, Try when on click on catalogue button and enter your make and model. best of luck
  13. Hello Jay2013, You could try renewing your fuel filter. I had no power at any revs above 2000 rpm. My mileage is 95000. Car pulls better now. May still have a lazy lamda sensor, my car fortunately only has one. If you go down this road take the old filter off first and measure all dimensions and in/out fuel line fittings, then use to access a trustworthy datasheet then run the new part number / manufacturer on suppliers' web sites. Best of luck Phil
  14. Hi Peter, Same problem here, car is sweet but seems to lack power therefore bought a £31 reader scanner (Vgate Scan VS600). Would not link at the din connector. Car flashed it's ABS warning light at me obviously didn't like it up it. Regards FixitPhil (who is returning the tool)
  15. Hi everybody and Fractureman, Happy to report have fitted new filter. Reason for this car been progressively losing power above 2500 rpm. To be sure of the right part I removed old filter to find Toyota part number this being 23300-16290. It has an M14 inlet port and M12 outlet port..Plus made a marked up drawing of major dimensions. Put Toyota part no in from many results checked data sheet of the Comeline CTY13042 which was available from Wilco-Direct for the princely sum of £15.59 delivered. There were others that were given as an equivalent spec but felt safe with Comeline data sheet. You need the Comline part number as Wilco-Direct don't post a data drawing. P.S. the car used to (hunt) / (flutter) whilst on low load whilst pulling gently at low speed on the flat. This symptom has gone. Could have been the EFI trying to come to terms with bugger all fuel. I am a Yorkshireman after all. Best Regards all and Happy Christmas. Phil