Steve Graham

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About Steve Graham

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    RAV4 XT4 2.0 VVT-i Manual
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    Computers & Electronics

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  1. (I did a search on "fuel filler" to find this...) I was at a Sainsbury's petrol station, putting petrol into my RAV-4, and suddenly the pump cut out. I knew it couldn't be because the tank was full; it was almost empty. Then one of the employees came out of their hutch to tell me that they had turned off the pump because they could see petrol pouring out from under my vehicle. I had just enough fuel left to get home. The steel pipe had rusted right through and parted company with the rubber connection to the fuel tank. I guess that it had been quietly corroding for a long time, and then suddenly broke off (given that this was the first event of any leakage.) I call it a design flaw. The pipe is in the wheel well, covered by a plastic plate, presumably to protect against stone chips. But when I took out the plastic bit, the rusty pipe was packed in wet mud, which is not known for its anti-corrosive properties. If your car's as old as mine (2004) it might be worth taking off the back wheel and cover plate and having a look.
  2. The current drain is definitely about ten times what it should be. (At all times, remote from wireless sources -- good suggestion though!) The standard capacity for a petrol RAV4.2 battery is just 45 Ah so although it's a decent make and not too old, it would be totally discharged in 5 days. The alternator etc. is working fine, since the battery does get fully recharged when driving. I'll have time tomorrow to investigate further.
  3. I left my car for 4 days and on my return, the 2-year-old battery was completely flat. Rapid charging for a few minutes allowed the car to start and drive. When I got home, I put my multimeter in series with the battery, and with the car turned off, I found a drain of around 350 milliamps. I haven't had a chance to exhaustively test everything yet, but I did find that when I removed the fuse labelled "HAZ", the current fell to a much more expected value, around 50 mA. "HAZ" as you might guess, protects the indicators and hazard warning flashing. The odd thing is that when I put the fuse back in, the excessive current drain didn't come back immediately. I re-tested some time later, however, and found it back up to 350 mA. I can't remember if I did anything significant in the interim. When you pull the HAZ fuse, the car beeps several times. I don't know why this fuse alone has that effect. Obviously, I've checked for cabin lights, lighter sockets etc! Any ideas?
  4. Well, two out of three. Following the excellent tutorial, I changed the oil in the diff and the gearbox, but I couldn't shift the plugs on the transfer box. Penetrating oil, blowtorch, brute force: no luck. I began to fear that I might round off the fill plug (always start on the fill plug!) so decided to desist. I'm going to have to devolve that one to the professionals. One thing that caught me out was that I was expecting the gearbox to drain vertically, but in fact it spewed out the oil horizontally, mostly missing my waiting receptacle. Then, as I fumbled trying to put the drain plug back in, I dropped it into the container of waste oil. I had to use a magnet on a string to fish it out.
  5. I had this error come up intermittently a year ago, then it stopped, then recently it came back. Is it something to do with the weather? (Seriously.) There was a period when I suspected that the problem was to do with the connector, which seemed to get oddly greasy inside. But I've just bought a replacement sensor, only to find that it shows a different error code, permanently this time. (I think it might be a duff one.) If you have a loose heat shield, might it have rubbed through the insulation of the wires? Or maybe it just jiggles the lead and upsets the connection? One thing to note is that with the P2238 detected, the engine switches to "open loop", i.e. it ignores the sensor. This makes it burn more fuel. I had my instantaneous fuel consumption showing on the radio display when cruising at 60 on the motorway. It was showing 6.5 litres/100km. When the engine light went on with the P2238 fault, that jumped instantly to 13.5
  6. The socket set arrived and worked perfectly. However, when I started the car with the new sensor installed it threw up a P0031 error - high current in the heater circuit. And indeed, the resistance of the heater is 1 ohm, compared to 2.5 on the old one. I've reinstalled the old sensor, (the P2238 error was intermittent anyway) and I'll contact the sensor vendor.
  7. Many thanks, Phil & Norm. (Have just ordered the Sealey set.)
  8. Many thanks for the replies. Since I posted the question, I've been browsing the net and a number of people complain that the deep socket with the large slot in the side can flex open and slip round the hex part of the sensor if it puts up a lot of resistance. That's a worry for me, since it's been in there for 10 years. I wonder if it would be better to cut off the wires and use an ordinary deep socket to extract the old sensor.
  9. Norm - if you're still subscribed to this thread - can you expand a bit on why an ordinary ring spanner wouldn't work very well? I've just ordered a replacement sensor (from the same eBay seller as it happens) and I hope I can manage the work myself. I would buy the specialist socket set if necessary. In my case, it's an intermittent P2238 fault code: same sensor, but a different problem.
  10. Many thanks for the replies. As a further tip for anyone reading, I found that it was best to have both rear wheels off to ensure that the cable adjustment was done equally. First time round, I ended up with one side tighter than the other.
  11. I haven't been logged into the forum for quite a while, because everything was working perfectly! So, hello again. Yesterday, my nearside hadbrake shoes jammed "on" and the hub and disc got rather hot. It turned out that one of the spring-loaded clips had come off, which allowed the shoe to twist out of place and then wedge itself somehow against the rotating drum/disc. The hold-down pins and clips aren't exactly like the diagram above. In mine (2004/4.2) there's a bottom piece with a tab that locates into the shoe, then a spring, then a cap with a slot, which rotates to lock. The rear pin is not straight as in the diagram, but U-shaped (or like _--_ if you see what I mean). I've reassembled everything and it seems OK, but I was unsure how that pin was supposed to be orientated. Does the bend point forward, backward, up or down? I'll probably buy new shoes. Would these come with new hold-down pins, springs and clips, or is that an extra purchase?
  12. Actually, I'm much better on bass than 6-string. My P2238 fault has now re-occurred after a few weeks when I cleared it. The heater circuit measures 4 ohms, which should be OK. But what was interesting was that I could get the fault to come back (once cleared via the app) by fiddling with the connector, suggesting that the root cause is bad connection in the plug and socket, not the actual death or imminent death of the heater. I've cleaned it and bent the blades by a tiny amount to change the contact, and am now waiting to see what happens. My MOT is next week. I don't know about the rest of the UK, but in Northern Ireland, now any dashboard warning is a fail.
  13. The combination of cheapo Chinese bluetooth adaptor and Torque on Android does work well on my RAV4. There's free Windows software available too, but getting it working seems to be more hassle (you have to get the bluetooth link to pretend to be a wired serial one). I don't have a Windows PC to even try it.
  14. I bought a Chinese bluetooth gadget like this: and installed the free version of Torque on my phone: It works fine for diagnostics, and with the phone's GPS can log speed and location, but there are several stats (e.g. fuel flow) which it's not getting from the car. I haven't really investigated in detail. The "Pro" version of the software is only three quid, and provides lower-level access to the OBD data. I'm a software-type person, so I might investigate that. If I ever get round to it.