roks

By dipped beam, you mean the first twist on the stalk? And the main beam is 2nd twist? Yes the main is brighter but not as before. Then there's the "blind the other driver" beam which is bit more brighter but I never use that.... I get annoyed when some people have their high beam on all the time, in your eyes...not to mention the Chelsea tractors with HID lights at your eye level.

Yes, alternator putting out 14.4v, battery drops to 12.3-4v after resting for a day or so. Longest trip was 40miles made not difference, does the weakness of battery affect the lights when engine running? Dry roads are about ok, its the wet roads that are hard I find.

I bought a pair of Osram or Phillips night breaker or day breaker or something. Initially it appeared brighter than the stock but after a year I cant tell the difference. The lenses are clean and haze removed but I sometimes seem struggle to tell if my headlights are on, so end up checking the stalk. Is it me or do the reflectors get weak eventually? Or are the London street light too bright.

Hi Kuljit, I've noticed that too, mines just a little sluggish but it starts fine. I bought my car 2012, the battery wasn't new at the time, at least I dont think so. I was wondering if its worth taking it indoors and charge with one of those reconditioning chargers for a day or so. I am sure someone more experienced will come along and tell us its normal for winter.

OK, I've found the problem, driver side wasn't draining..... Poked a wire and its draining, will have a proper look at the weekend. The drained water comes out of a welding seam, that's got to be clogging there. I now need to find a way to dry the soaked carpet and underlay. The heater set to high is not going to cut it.

Hi OC, Yes, its Toyota factory roof. The water is dripping from the top, over my shoulder, just where the pillar trim meets the roof trim, and collecting in the foot well. Last time I cleared the block, poured water in the sunroof channels, water was coming out under the car, just behind the wheel arch. So are you saying the sunroof is supposed to be water tight? If so I guess I'll have to look for the seals.

Hi, Give it a few hundred miles, it will come back. I had the same code for ages, I reset it with my scanner tool, you will notice that each time you reset it, the time before it comes back on get shorter, i.e. first time it lasted a year, then it was 6/7 month then 3 months etc...it passed MOT with no issues. In end it was too frequent, so I got fed up replaced both, front and the rear together, its been couple of years since. Also, my corolla only has one bank, so its labelled as B1S1 and B1S2 on the scanner tool. Watch out for B1S2 (rear), one near the CAT, its baked in, soak it with WD40 or PlusGas or something similar several times over a couple of days. If you don't have blowtorch, drive the car for a while and get it nice and hot, that makes it a bit easier to take off. You will also need a O2 sensor socket. Don't bother cleaning, it isn't going to work. Regards,

Had a nasty surprise this morning Sat in the car, felt wet patch on the edge of the driver seat. It rained all night until early morning. First thought was I left the window open last night, then noticed dripping on my thigh. Looked up and saw this: I cleared the drain for sunroof last time, it’s been raining loads since and not leaked so I thought that was the end. Didn't see any water buildup in the sunroof, just wet. Luckily last time I had summer sun and loads of newspaper to dry it out. Now I am doomed, the foot well is soaked like before, defo going to get that stench…. Is the sunroof supposed to be water tight all around? Regards

Yes I noticed warm cans sprayed better, I had left the cans in the dash while I taped up, they were nice and warm. Some idiot already scuffed os front.....I am not going to bother until summer now.

Seems to get scratches/marks easily now...I guess the spray lacquer is not as hard as the factory 2k lacquer

I remember they quoted me approximately £600+ per side when my cv joint needed replacing.....I attacked it with an angle grinder when heard that as the cv joints are not replaceable.

Hi, I changed the o ring on my chain tensioner and cautiously put a skinny bead of trv round the flange. Now it seems to be leaking from the bottom bolt as top bolt no longer soaks. It seems to collect drip just below the tensioner (red arrow in the picture) and lands rught on the drive shaft and you what happens next.... I'll try a larger bead of trv when I get some time.

Here's some pictures, looking at it now, I can see some of the filler patch showing through in the corners...😐

LOL I always seem to forget to do a before and after pic, its been poring down all day today, lets see tomorrow. The rain made it a go a bit dul, hopefully once its had a polish it will come to life.

Hi OC, Nearly, think 98% match, mine is 1C3 Igneous Grey, I got from ebay, custom mixed by company called WLW £12.99+free 500ml lacquer. I bought a 2nd can, they adjusted bit for me, not tried on the bumper yet as it appeared darker on a test so I got put off. I am not impressed witheir lacquer though, they claim "proffesional fan spray" nozzles but didnt get the fan at all, almost used the whole 500ml can but couldnt get it to look wet. I had to resort to ECP optima lacquer can £2 each, the nozzle provided very nice fan spay, got the wet look. I wish I saw your comments before I started, the cans from ECP were in the car boot and quite warm by 2pm, sun was up, 21*C but had tree shade on my car from across the street. I still have front bumper to do but only going to do the sides/corners, I went with 800, very lightly but still managed to go through in couple of places, wish I had done a couple of coats of the basecoat but luckley I had a bit of spray left over to cover those bits. Some place it didnt go through but the marks are visible (swirl marks?) if you look in certain angles. Overall not a bad finish.